Dharamsala

Dharamsala (Hindi: धर्मशाला, pronounced [d̪ʱərəmˈɕaːlaː] or [d̪ʱərmˈɕaːlaː]; Tibetan: དྷ་རམ་ས་ལ་), is a hill station in Himachal Pradesh, famed for its large Tibetan community centred on the activities of the Dalai Lama.

Understand
The Tibetan Buddhist roots of Dharamsala stretch back to the 8th century, although most of the local population long since reverted to (and remains) Hindu. "Dharamsala" literally means an "inn attached to a temple", and it was so until the district headquarters in Kangra became too crowded and the British moved 2 of their regiments in the late 1840s to what is now Dharamsala. Over the years, this grew to be district headquarters of Kangra, and the location is now known as the Police Lines.

Dharamsala was mooted to be the summer capital of India. But this was not to be, as much of the town was destroyed in the 7.8 magnitude earthquake of 4 April 1905. The disaster killed over 10,000 people in this sparsely populated area.

After falling into obscurity in the early days of Indian independence, Dharamsala regained some social standing in 1959 with the arrival of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government in Exile. It is a very popular hang-out for foreigners and students of Buddhism. Indeed, it is now perhaps a little too popular and many would say the town, and especially McLeod Ganj, is little more than a backpacker ghetto. Don't come here expecting calm and tranquillity.

Climate
Lower Dharamsala is at an altitude of 1,400 m, while McLeod Ganj is at around 1,750 m, making them considerably cooler than the plains below. Temperatures in January can dip below freezing, while June can go up to 38°C. The monsoon from July to September is very wet. Even in March, when the Dalai Lama holds his teachings and the weather down in Delhi is balmy, you will still need a heavy winter coat. These can be purchased at reasonable prices in the town.

By plane
Kangra Airport is at Gaggal near Kangra, a distance of 15 km from McLeod Ganj by road on MDR44 and NH 154.

By bus


It was the case that some public HRTC buses to Delhi and Pathankot go all the way to the main square of McLeod Ganj, where you could also book advance tickets for the return trip, but this seems no longer to be the case.

Privately operated buses travel from Manali, Dehradun and Delhi. Overnight buses travel from Delhi with many leaving from the Tibetan colony of Majnu ka Tilla. These services take upwards of 13 hr and cost ₹450–1,000 for a Volvo.

Specific nearby destinations:
 * From Pathankot – Unreserved HRTC buses from Pathankot cost ₹200 (Jul 2023) and take 3–4 hr to Dharamsala. Buses depart frequently throughout the day, 4PM last.
 * From Amritsar – There are direct private buses leaving in the afternoon for ₹800 that are advertised as taking 5 hr. There are no direct public buses between Amritsar and Dharamsala. However, you could take the 9AM train to Pathankot first for ₹55 and then transfer to the HRTC bus.
 * From Chandigarh – Even though just 236 km it's a gruelling 8–9 hr trip in an ordinary bus.

By train
The nearest mainline train station is at Pathankot and the neighbouring small station of Chakki Bank, a comfortable overnight journey from Delhi.

Train fans can continue from Pathankot on the slow and rickety but pretty narrow-gauge Kangra Valley Railway to Kangra, a journey of 4 hr. In Kangra walk or take a rickshaw to the bus stop from where buses to Dharamsala go. The train actually continues further to Jogindernagar from Kangra.

By taxi
A taxi from Pathankot to McLeod Ganj, 88 km and takes about 3 hours, and the official fare from Pathankot is ₹2,200 (one way). This is May 2019 rate for a small car such as an Alto/Indica.

Taxis from Delhi are often available leaving from Majnu Ki Tila Tibetan settlement in North Delhi on the ring road. Many people take a taxi to Delhi which takes about 10 hours and pay the return fare simply because they don't want to deal with the hassle and pain of taking a bus. These taxis need to return to Dharamshala, and many times will sell seats in their car for the same price as a bus ticket. To find these taxis, go to the Majnu Ki Tila Tibetan Settlement Bus Stand and look for taxis which have Himachal Pradesh licence plates. You can negotiate with a driver. Often the taxis will leave in the evening and you will arrive in Dharamshala early the next morning.

Orientation
Dharamsala is divided into several distinct areas that are separated by a 15 min or 12 km bus or jeep ride at most:
 *  – Consists of most of the government offices, Schools, the local hospital, and commercial areas. It also has a few tea gardens. One in the area of Chilgari and another just beyond Dari. It is a typical small Indian town that, other than for the bus station, is of little interest to tourists. One can enjoy the view while driving through.
 *  – Known less commonly as Upper Dharamsala is named after David McLeod, who was once the British Lieutenant-Governor of Punjab, and the word Ganj, which is a common Persian word meaning "neighbourhood". At an altitude of 2,082 m and 5 km on foot from Lower Dharamsala, it is famous for Tibetan culture, natural beauty, mixed tradition, ancient temples, churches and monasteries. As of 2021, it is the home of famous 14th Tibetan Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso after his exile from Tibet, and thus home and centre to the Tibetan community.
 *  – Sometimes also called Little Tel Aviv, it is 2 km northeast of McLeod and has become a highly commercialised hotspot for many backpackers from Israel—Hewbrew is a common sight here.
 *  – A 10-min climb above Bhagsu with a number of guesthouses. It is less busy than Bhagsu and offers many fancy restaurants and Yoga and meditation centers. There is a nice shopping and dinning promenade aka footway making half a circle around the hill.
 *  – Another 10 min climbing straight north and you will reach the last of the tourist centers of Dharamsala, sometimes called Upper Dharamkot. There are several good to great hostels with some of the best views in Dharamsala. This place seem to be popular with Russian speaking backpackers, even though many other tourists pass through here on their way to the Galu waterfall.

Villages near McLeod Ganj include Forsyth Ganj, in between Lower and Upper Dharamsala. And for a more quiet and basic experience, try Naddi (3 km, and a great viewpoint) or Talnu (11 km).

All these places are small enough to be navigated on foot—McLeod, Bhagsu, Dharamkot and Haini are closest to each other (max. 20 min on foot), while Lower Dharamsala is further away.

By taxi or rickshaw
Between McLeod Ganj and Dharamsala shared taxis run roughly hourly and cost ₹20. Chartered auto-rickshaws charge around ₹250. Trips from McLeod Ganj to nearby points (e.g. Bhagsu) cost ₹50–150. There are separate counters for auto-rickshaws and taxis near the center square. Walk to them and rent vehicles and avoid people who walk up to you and offer to take you to places.

Meeting the Dalai Lama
Meeting (or at least getting to see) the Dalai Lama is the dream of a lifetime for many people, an intensive spiritual experience for Buddhists and a memorable moment for people of other faiths. It's also very difficult to achieve, so don't plan on it. It requires a good deal of luck.

If you want to give it your best shot, the first thing to do is make sure that His Holiness is in town when you visit. He travels frequently. His website lists his yearly itinerary and an email to the office will confirm his travel dates. While he does give scheduled public teachings, these are crowded. There are some that are only scheduled a few days in advance, so keep your eyes and ears open in Dharamsala. The ultimate goal is a private audience. His website says he is no longer giving them. This isn't entirely true, but you have to have a very good reason or an "in." Go to the office of his secretary.

The Dalai Lama's administrative office is in the Tsuglagkhang Complex. When you face his house, which has a gate with Indian guards in front of it, it's the last door on your right, at the end of the complex. This office is open all day, six days a week. The man behind the desk will tell you to apply online and give you the website address. Go to an internet cafe and do it if you haven't already done it and been rejected months in advance so that you can say that you have, but it probably won't get you anywhere. If the receptionist is there alone, then His Holiness is not giving private audiences. If a bunch of people are there holding slips of paper with their personal information and their passports, he's giving private audiences, they usually occur around noon. There is heavy security and you need a reason. Chat with everyone.

Some people get in as a group, like a documentary crew or a family whose father is a politician. Talk to everyone in Dharamsala about His Holiness, and you're bound to run into someone who is on his staff or knows someone on his staff. At the office, drop the name of every person you met. If you are visibly ill, you may get an audience based on that. Granted, this "audience" will probably last the time it takes for him to bless you, which is about 10 seconds, and an additional ₹5 to pose for a photo. A photographer is provided and you are not allowed to bring your own camera.

To meet the Dalai Lama is something most Tibetans worldwide only dream of so count your blessings if you receive an audience. Bring a khata (white scarf), they can be purchased for a few rupees, but since you'll probably be treasuring that khata, you might want to shell out ₹20 for a nicer one. If he poses for a picture with you the security office will tell you to return with a blank CD and they will burn the picture onto a CD. Blank CDs can be purchased from shops on Temple Rd for about ₹50. Remember to show appreciation for anyone whose name you might have dropped to get in. Donate to their monastery, eat at their restaurant or whatever you feel is appropriate. This isn't expected but it's a nice thing to do.

Every year in February–March for ten days or so, and occasionally at other times, the Dalai Lama holds public lectures. Registration at the Tibetan Branch Security Office (near Hotel Tibet) is necessary, preferably 3–4 days beforehand although shorter notice may be possible. Bring a cushion to sit on, an FM radio with headphones to listen to the simultaneous translation from Tibetan to English, a cup for tea and a sunhat/umbrella, but as little else as possible since security is tight. The last day of teaching concludes with public prayers, for which no security pass is needed. Donations are welcome.



Learn


Courses available include yoga, meditation, reiki, Tibetan and Indian cooking classes, Tibetan language classes and Thai massage. Many courses include vegetarian meals, and are offered at meditation centres.

Yoga, meditation and healing
Vipassana and Tushita (see below) seem to be the two most authentic and original names in the region.



Volunteer
There are some opportunities to volunteer. For longer term options such as 1 month or more ask at the LHA office in the middle of the town. Staff there are very friendly and always welcoming if people wish to teach, tutor or get involved in conversational classes.


 * Lha Social Work – Lha is one of the largest charitable social work organizations in Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj and aims to provide vital resources and services for Tibetan refugees, the local Indian population, and people from the Himalayan regions. Volunteers are needed for English, French and Chinese classes, IT classes, vocational training, health and environmental awareness education, distribution of clothes and medicine, a community kitchen and many other programmes and activities.
 * Rogpa Cafe (Jogiwara Rd) – They are always looking for volunteers to work in the cafe or to look after children at the Day Care centre. This is a 2 week commitment. All proceeds go to the Rogpa Day Care centre that provides free services for local children.
 * Tesi Environmental Awareness Movement – If you are an environmental expert, then contact this non-profit Tibetan group.

You may also approach Tibetans in social circles to help them improve their English whilst getting to know each other's culture and personal story. Be mindful of accepting requests for private tutorage from monks on the streets. After a few days they may subject you to demands for sponsorship, however stories of this are rare. It may be best to go through a credible and well established organisation if you want to provide assistance in this way.

In general most monks and lay people are incredibly grateful to have you help them with their English and it is a great way to get to know Tibetan people on a more personal level. The easiest way to help out is to drop into LHA on Temple Rd, or LIT on Jogiwara Rd and sign up for tutoring. A commitment of one month is preferred.

Buy
Many Tibetan things can be bought in Dharamsala such as jewellery and trinkets, woollen shawls, prayer flags, prayer wheels, carpets, thangka and mandala paintings.



What
The momos sold by numerous Tibetan street vendors usually sell at ₹10 for 4 pieces. These are safe to eat and acceptable to the Western palate even if they cannot be expected to match the level of culinary delicacy of those offered by some of the best establishments listed below.

Dharamsala is a good place to try Tibetan food and beverages:
 * Momos – dumplings filled with meat or vegetables, steamed or fried
 * Thukpa – a hearty noodle soup with veggies or meat
 * Thenthuk – thukpa with handmade flat rectangular shaped noodles
 * Pocha – a salty tea churned with butter, a Tibetan staple, more commonly known as Tibetan Butter Tea

Where
McLeod Ganj is a great place for eating, and the town has an abundance of restaurants, especially in the mid to upper range that cater to foreign tourists.

Also, Bhagsu and Dharamkot offer great local, fusion and foreign food places—hummus and falafel are not uncommon.

Prices in Dharamsala generally tend to be at least 50% sometimes 100% higher than in other (non-touristy) parts of India. Furthermore, non-Indian food often carries a steep surcharge.

Drink
Refill your waterbottle with filtered-water at one of the many water-filtering stations: LHA at Temple Rd, Environmental Education Centre at Bhasgu Rd and Dogga-Centre at Jogiwara Rd. Some restaurants, including Nick's and Green Hotel also offer filtered water refills for a charge (₹5, but Green Hotel asks for ₹10).

Coffee
Many of the above listed restaurants and bakeries are also great for having a coffee or tea and enjoying the view—check there.

Sleep
McLeod Ganj has a wide selection of accommodation, but its main streets (esp. Bhagsu Rd) suffer from the usual Indian curse of beeping cars, motorbikes and rickshaws. It is easy to find something suitable—just walk around and ask for a good price. Always let you show at least two different rooms before you decide. Two hostels worth mentioning in McLeod Ganj are and —walk-ins seem to be advantageous.

A higher concentration of hostels (and backpackers) can be found in Bhagsu and Haini, besides the usual homestays, hotel, etc.. Hostels worth mentioning here are and —walk-ins seem to be advantageous.

For long-term stays, head down the Yongling stairs on Jogiwara Road; there are about a dozen cheap good places, with great views.

Stay safe
The place is safe, though it is advisable to take precautions. Stay vigilant at all times and be very cautious if staying out after 9PM.

Go next

 * Amritsar – The holy Sikh city of and its Golden Temple is a 6-hr bus journey away. Buses leave at 5AM from the lower bus station, or go through Pathankot first with many connections per day, and a train from there.
 * Bir – A village with a Tibetan and Indian population, known for its Buddhist monasteries and paragliding centre, developing as an adventure hub with the second highest paragliding spot of the world, Bir-Billing.
 * Dalhousie – A small hill station close to Pathankot.
 * Manali – The next hub for journeys deeper into the mountains.
 * Palampur – A beautiful valley famous for its tea gardens, agricultural university, temples.
 * Sidhbari – Outside lower Dharamshala is an ideal getaway from the tourist traffic and to experience life in a typical farming village in the valley.

Dharmasala