Derry

Derry or Londonderry (Irish: Doire) is the second city of Northern Ireland, with a population of 85,000 in 2021. It's on the estuary of the River Foyle and historically within County Londonderry, which has been abolished as a unit of governance so the city is now part of Derry and Strabane District. It's on the border with County Donegal in the Republic of Ireland, and its city walls reflect its frontier status. Derry is a fascinating destination with in-your-face history.

Understand
Accept at the outset that you will occasionally use the wrong name, or rather a right name in the wrong company, and be thunderously corrected. The multiple names of this city reflect its deep layers of history.

Doire is Irish for "oak grove". Glaciers gouged out the fjord of Lough Foyle, and as they retreated the Atlantic lowlands became carpeted in oak forest. Oak was essential so it's a common place-name element: Edenderry, Durrow, Kildare, Adare, and so on. Oak timber was needed for ships, carts, houses, furniture, fences. . . but even more it was needed to make charcoal to fire furnaces for metal-working and glass-blowing. (Coal was too dirty, and coke hadn't been invented.) A monastic settlement grew up at Doire at the head of the lough, while the forests were felled at a rate worthy of a Brazilian cattle tycoon. Meanwhile this northwest region of Ireland remained under Gaelic rule, rebuffing the Vikings, the Normans and the Tudors, until in 1603 Gaelic power was broken by the Nine Years War - almost. But in 1608 a diehard Gaelic noble rebelled, and the city was burned. The rebels were soon hunted down but the government were determined to prevent any repeat. Their astonishing solution was to outsource the place to a London business consortium - how come Nicosia or Sarajevo never thought of this?

Londonderry is the city they ringed with stout walls, soon put to the test. The consortium, "The Honourable The Irish Society", divvied up the area between their twelve leading merchant companies, and colonised it with loyal Protestant settlers mostly from Scotland. The walls were first tested in 1641 in the Civil Wars when Gaelic insurgents were repulsed. In 1649 Londonderry supported Cromwell and parliament, and withstood a siege by the Royalists. In "The Glorious Revolution" the city supported the Protestant King William but was attacked by Jacobites: on 7 Dec 1688 thirteen Apprentice Boys famously locked shut the city gates with a slam that echoes yet throughout Northern Ireland. On 18 April 1689 King James and his army began a siege that lasted 105 terrible days - "No Surrender!" - until relief ships broke through up the Foyle. And thus Londonderry was "the maiden city", never taken, and with an uncompromising tradition to uphold. Derry remained in common use, and was the name of its Protestant and RC bishoprics. The big sectarian divide came in 1921, when Ireland was partitioned - six counties including Londonderry remained in the UK, while 26 including Donegal became part of the Republic. A "hard" border suddenly appeared at the west edge of the city, blighting both sides, while cultural borders hardened within it. "The Troubles" escalated in the 1970s, especially after the massacre of Bloody Sunday. In 1984 the city changed its name back to Derry, insofar as it was empowered to do so, but its Royal Charter of 1662 trumps this. The name you uttered became a badge of allegiance.

Stroke City was one mocking term for the hybrid "Derry / Londonderry", as used on transport and other facilities that were trying to be even-handed; it was also a nod towards Ulster's unhealthy lifestyle. Really, is this the most important thing for this city to obsess about? Unemployment, rust-belt industry, paramilitary crime, dysfunctional politics, drug misuse... The turning point was the Good Friday Agreement of 1998. Peace and investment gradually returned and Derry, like Belfast, was able to relaunch itself as a tourist destination. "Splodgederry" is the place you might approach by road, as "London-" is often daubed out on signs. To avoid ambiguity these pages mostly use "Derry" for the city and "Londonderry" for the county, but note the opening sentence above. The county name was never changed, and since these have been abolished as units of governance it must remain County Londonderry.

Watch
Derry Girls (2018-2022, available on Channel 4/Netflix) is a dark coming-of-age sitcom set in 1990s Derry during the late Troubles and Good Friday referendum. Following the lives and families of five teenagers, who all attend a Catholic girls' school, it intersperses teen chaos and '90s nostalgia with poignant historical moments.

By plane
You could also fly into Belfast City or International Airport, or Dublin, all with car hire and public transport. The Airporter bus runs hourly from Derry bus station direct to International then City Airport. The bus from Dublin to Derry stops at Dublin Airport, but there are only 3 per day.

Another option is Donegal airport, in the Republic of Ireland, which has regular flights to Dublin and Glasgow. Driving will take 1.5 hours.

Finally, if time is on your side and you don't mind a strenuous and complicated journey through the Irish countryside, Knock/Ireland West airport in County Mayo is an option. There is a bus (line 64) that connects the airport to Derry, but it takes nearly 4 hr. Driving takes roughly 2 hr 30 min.

By train


Trains run hourly, daily between 7AM and 9PM from Belfast Great Victoria Street via Lanyon Place and other Belfast stations, Antrim (for International Airport), Ballymena, Coleraine, Castlerock and Bellarena, taking two hours to Derry; an adult single might be £13. The last stretch of line along the coast from Castlerock is very scenic. Change at Coleraine for trains to Ulster University and Portrush, and for buses along the Antrim coast to Bushmills, Giant's Causeway and Ballycastle.



By car
From Belfast the direct route is M2 / A6, but there are several scenic alternatives depending on how much of the Antrim Coast you want to take in.

From Dublin take M1 to the N33 for Ardee, then N2 north via Monaghan to the border, then A5 via Omagh and Strabane.

Road signs south of the border read "Derry". Those north of the border call it "Londonderry" but are often vandalised. It's as much mischief as political, so don't be surprised to encounter a sign for London Zoo.

By bus
Ulsterbus Goldline 212 runs from Belfast Europa station to Derry every 30-60 min daily, taking two hours. Bus 273 takes a longer route south of Lough Neagh via Dungannon, Omagh and Strabane.

Goldline 234 runs from Coleraine, taking 75 min via Limavady, Ballykelly and Eglinton (for LDY airport). There are 7 M-F, 4 Sa and 2 Su.

Bus X3 / X4 runs 3 times a day from Dublin Busáras and Airport, taking 3 hr 30 min either via Monaghan and Omagh or via Armagh, Dungannon and Cookstown.

Expressway 64 runs every two hours from Galway via Tuam, Knock, Sligo, Ballyshannon, Donegal Town and Letterkenny (the transport hub for County Donegal), then another 30 min brings it into Derry.

The bus station is at the foot of city centre.

Get around
East of the River Foyle is the district of Waterside, predominantly Unionist. The railway station is here and to reach city centre you either take the hourly Bus 2d, or walk across Craigavon Bridge which carries the main road, or take a longer walk via the Peace Bridge downstream.

The main city, bus station and areas of most interest are Cityside, west of the Foyle and mostly nationalist. The city has some steep streets but is compact and walkable; burbs and industry stretch out beyond.

Taxis wait at the bus and railway stations but you're unlikely to need one. You need your own wheels to explore the countryside, such as Grianan of Aileach prehistoric fort or the Donegal coast of Lough Foyle.

Walled city
Londonderry is the only city in Ireland with its walls intact, and one of the finest examples in Europe. They were built 1613-1618 by "The Honourable the Irish Society" to defend settlers from England and Scotland. They're in circumference, ranged over the crag that rises from Guildhall to St Columb's. They're mostly over  high and wide, with a walkway giving great views over the city, free to stroll with multiple access points. Originally there were four gates: Bishop’s Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Butcher Gate and Shipquay Gate, with Magazine Gate, Castle Gate and New Gate added later.
 * First Derry Presbyterian Church is an imposing building by the Memorial Hall.
 * First Derry Presbyterian Church is an imposing building by the Memorial Hall.
 * First Derry Presbyterian Church is an imposing building by the Memorial Hall.
 * First Derry Presbyterian Church is an imposing building by the Memorial Hall.

Bogside
This is the valley immediately west of the heights of the walled city, then the ground rises again onto the Creggan estate. A couple of miles further across the fields is the Irish border. Night after night during the Troubles the Bogside was the stuff of newsreels, with protests, vehicles on fire, shootings, and makeshift barricades against police and army trucks. It's an essential part of visiting Derry and the area of interest is within a short walk of the centre, and safe in daylight.
 * is the junction of Rossville Rd / Lecky St with Creggan Rd. A monument marks the bounds of "Free Derry", the fiercely nationalist quarter of town during the height of the Troubles. Building gable-ends around are painted with the "Bogside Murals" of political art, and another monument commemorates the peaceful protestors gunned down by the British army on Bloody Sunday. Today, it is co-opted for various political movements and memorials via permit at various times of the year, such as for LGBTQ2+ rights and Palestinian solidarity.
 * is the junction of Rossville Rd / Lecky St with Creggan Rd. A monument marks the bounds of "Free Derry", the fiercely nationalist quarter of town during the height of the Troubles. Building gable-ends around are painted with the "Bogside Murals" of political art, and another monument commemorates the peaceful protestors gunned down by the British army on Bloody Sunday. Today, it is co-opted for various political movements and memorials via permit at various times of the year, such as for LGBTQ2+ rights and Palestinian solidarity.

Elsewhere

 * is the footbridge spanning the river between Foyle Embankment city-side and Ebrington Square waterside. An artful modern structure of 2011, it symbolises what you'd expect it to symbolise, but more practically it greatly improves pedestrian access between the two banks.
 * is a Z-plan turret built in the 16th century, a stronghold of the O'Doherty clan. In 1608 it was the seat of the rebellion that led to the burning of Derry. It's on private farmland and in 2021 there was no access.
 * is a Z-plan turret built in the 16th century, a stronghold of the O'Doherty clan. In 1608 it was the seat of the rebellion that led to the burning of Derry. It's on private farmland and in 2021 there was no access.
 * is a Z-plan turret built in the 16th century, a stronghold of the O'Doherty clan. In 1608 it was the seat of the rebellion that led to the burning of Derry. It's on private farmland and in 2021 there was no access.

Do

 * Millennium Forum has the city's largest auditorium, with music, theatre and panto.
 * The Playhouse by St Columb's Cathedral has theatre and music.
 * Waterside Theatre and Arts Centre is on Glendermott Rd near the railway station. They host theatre, film and an art gallery.
 * Cinema: Omniplex is in Quayside Shopping Centre.
 * Institute FC also play soccer at Ryan McBride Stadium. They were relegated in 2020 and now play in the NIFL (Blue Fin Sport) Championship, the game's second tier in Northern Ireland, playing Sep-Apr.
 * Institute FC also play soccer at Ryan McBride Stadium. They were relegated in 2020 and now play in the NIFL (Blue Fin Sport) Championship, the game's second tier in Northern Ireland, playing Sep-Apr.
 * Gaelic games: Derry GAA play Gaelic football and hurling. Their usual home ground is Celtic Park (capacity 18,000) on Lone Moor Rd but home games are also played at other grounds.
 * Golf: nearby courses are Faughan Valley on A2 northeast, City of Derry on A5 south, and Foyle on A2 north along the west river bank.

Events

 * St Patrick's Day is celebrated on 17 March whenever that falls in the week. It's a public holiday, with parades and general hoop-de-hoop.
 * Foyle Film Festival is held throughout April, but dates for 2023 are tbc.
 * City of Derry Jazz Festival is in late April.
 * Celtronic is a dance festival in late June. but tbc.
 * Foyle Maritime Festival has tall ships, clipper races and shore events, in July.
 * Maiden City Festival commemorates the siege of 1688, after the Protestant apprentice boys slammed the city doors against James II. It is held in mid-Aug.
 * Halloween Carnival is on the last weekend of October when the clocks change.

Learn

 * Magee College is a campus of the University of Ulster in the city. The main campus is just north of Coleraine.

Buy

 * Foyleside is the large retail mall just south of the bus station, and Richmond Centre is a block northwest.
 * Walled City Market is held in Guildhall Square 11AM–5PM on the first Saturday of the month.
 * Cross-border shopping is sometimes a feature, whenever pound/euro rates or sales tax differences draw shoppers from the Republic.

Budget

 * Saffron between Fiorentini's and Guapo serves Indian food Tu-Su 4:30-10PM.
 * Saffron between Fiorentini's and Guapo serves Indian food Tu-Su 4:30-10PM.
 * Saffron between Fiorentini's and Guapo serves Indian food Tu-Su 4:30-10PM.

Drink

 * The main bar strip is Waterloo Street, a steep street just north of the walls.


 * The Quiet Man Whiskey is blended on Rossdowney Road on Waterside, but construction of their own distillery was abandoned in 2018.
 * Northbound Brewery is on Campsie Industrial Estate next to the airport, no tours. You can buy online but they only deliver within the city area.
 * Otterbank Brewery is on the border at Muff, no tours.
 * The Quiet Man Whiskey is blended on Rossdowney Road on Waterside, but construction of their own distillery was abandoned in 2018.
 * Northbound Brewery is on Campsie Industrial Estate next to the airport, no tours. You can buy online but they only deliver within the city area.
 * Otterbank Brewery is on the border at Muff, no tours.
 * The Quiet Man Whiskey is blended on Rossdowney Road on Waterside, but construction of their own distillery was abandoned in 2018.
 * Northbound Brewery is on Campsie Industrial Estate next to the airport, no tours. You can buy online but they only deliver within the city area.
 * Otterbank Brewery is on the border at Muff, no tours.
 * Otterbank Brewery is on the border at Muff, no tours.

Stay safe
Derry was scarred by the late 20th century Troubles, and it remains an "interface area" where Republican and Loyalist communities co-exist and occasionally kick off. But it's become a normal city by British and Irish standards, and hasn't seen the need for the kind of "Peace Wall" that still separates neighbourhoods in Belfast. There are down-at-heel districts where you have no reason to go, and aggressive drunks whose politics you need not debate, same as anywhere else. Safeguard your valuables and vehicle, beware traffic, and use your commonsense, you'll do fine.

Connect
To call a number in Northern Ireland from the Republic, use area code 048 with no country code. The +44 28 versions given above will work but incur international rates.

As of Aug 2021, Derry has 4G from all UK carriers, which extends some miles into the Republic, especially along Lough Foyle west shore.

It also picks up an Irish 4G signal from Eir and Three, and a mobile signal from Vodafone. Neither side has 5G.

Go next

 * The County Londonderry coast is scenic: Castlerock has the ruin of an eccentric mansion and "temple". Portstewart is the main beach resort.
 * The Antrim coast east of Portrush has the big attractions of Bushmills Distillery, Giant's Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede Bridge. It's very touristy on summer weekends.
 * County Donegal has a rugged coastline and marks the start of the Wild Atlantic Way: you pick up the signposts for this as you cross the border at Muff.