Delhi

Delhi (Hindi: दिल्ली Dillī, Punjabi: ਦਿੱਲੀ Dilī, Urdu: دلّی Dillī) is India's capital and seat of government. It forms the National Capital Territory of Delhi, rather than being part of a state. Delhi is one of India's largest cities, and the core of one of the largest metropolitan areas in the world, with over 28½ million inhabitants (2018). Within India it is a major centre of arts, commerce, education, tourism, and transit. As the capital of several empires over the last 2000 years, Delhi also contains a striking array of well-preserved historic sites for tourists to visit.

Districts
Delhi is officially divided into 11 districts. For travel purposes, some government districts are combined into bigger districts in this guide. The colours of the districts represent the colour of the main metro line that travels through them:

Understand
Travellers with little experience of visiting developing megacities will find Delhi to be chaotic, crowded and for much of the year, polluted. Air pollution is a major problem in Delhi since the 1980s, with much of the day dominated with a very unhealthy amount of particles. During the late spring and early summer months, the city is scorchingly hot. Dig a little deeper however and you will get a glimpse of order beneath the chaos as well as India's traditional and modern cultural richness flourishing side by side. First-time visitors feeling the culture shock are recommended to not compound that by visiting during adverse weather conditions, and get a decent hotel room so you can stay in comfort between your sightseeing trips.

History
With evidence of continuous settlement dating back to the 6th century BC, Delhi is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. Thought to have been built and destroyed eleven times, evidence of at least eight distinct settlements can still be seen in Delhi. The most well-preserved historic sites are from the periods of Muslim and British rule, between 1193 and 1947.

The legendary city of Indraprastha from the epic Mahabharata is said to have been situated where Delhi now lies, but no remains of it have been found.

From the 10th to 14th century, the city was centred in what is now South Delhi:


 * — Built in the 9th-10th century on what is now the far southern outskirts of Delhi. A large water reservoir can be seen, well preserved.
 * — Founded in perhaps the 11th century as a city named "Lalkot" under Hindu rule, in the current Mehrauli area. In around 1180, Hindu ruler Prithviraj Chauhan expanded this city and renamed it Qila Rai Pithora. Some of the ruins of the fort ramparts from this period are still visible around Qutb Minar and Mehrauli.
 * — Shortly afterwards, in 1192, Muslim leader Muhammad Ghori defeated Prithviraj Chauhan in battle. Ghori left his slave Qutb-ud-din Aibak as his viceroy, who in turn captured Delhi the subsequent year. After Ghori's death in 1206, Qutub-ud-din proclaimed himself the ruler of Delhi and founded what is known as the Slave Dynasty of the Delhi Sultanate. Qutub-ud-din contributed significantly in terms of architecture by building Mehrauli. His most prominent contribution is the starting of Qutb Minar (which was finally completed in 1220). The tombs and other buildings near the Qutb Minar also date to this period.
 * — The Slave Dynasty was followed by the Khilji (or Khalji) dynasty. In 1303 they established Siri, first as a military camp to protect against possible Mongol invasion, and later as a fortified city. Nowadays Hauz Khas complex (north of Mehrauli) contains ruins of Siri Fort, a madrassa, and other buildings from the period.
 * — After the Khiljis there was chaos until Ghiyasuddin Tughluq (a Turk governor) invaded Delhi in the 1320s, started the Tughlaq dynasty, and founded a new capital Tughlaqabad, in South East Delhi. His son Muhammad Bin Tughluq created another city called Jahapanah in the area between Siri and Qila Rai Pithora, uniting them into one city. Tughlaqabad continued, however, to be the main capital city.

Starting in the 14th century, new areas were built further north, near the current city centre:
 * (Feroz Shah Kotla) — built by Muhammad bin Tughlaq's son, Feroz, in 1354. There still are some ruins which are visible around the Feroz Shah cricket stadium in Central Delhi, near the river. The city was an enclosed large area and contained many palaces, mosques, pillared halls, and a multi-floored water reservoir. Firoze also erected a 1500-year-old Ashokan Pillar (previously erected in Meerut by Samrat Ashok) on top of the palace. Firoze was buried inside a lofty tomb in Hauz Khas. After his death, the sultanate became unstable and weak, and Delhi was conquered and sacked by Tamerlane. The Sayyid and Lodhi dynasties who ruled Delhi after the Tughlaqs did less building, and the only relevant architecture visible from this period are the tombs at Lodhi Gardens. The last of the Lodhis was defeated by Babur, who then proceeded to establish the Mughal Empire in 1526.


 * — In 1533, Babur's son Humayun built the new city of Dinpanah, near the river south of Firozabad. In 1540 Humayun was defeated by Sher Shah Suri and forced to withdraw from Delhi. Sher Shah Suri established the new city Shergarh on the ruins of Dinpanah. Shergarh is what you see at Purana Qila today, near the Delhi Zoo. Humayun later reconquered Delhi and returned to power. He then completed the construction and proceeded to rule from Shergarh.
 * (Old Delhi) — the following emperors moved away from Delhi and made Agra their capital. Shahjahan (Humayun's great-grandson) returned to Delhi and established Shahjahanabad, including the Jama Masjid and the Red Fort. Much of the city wall, and three of its six gates, still exist today.
 * — New Delhi was established in 1911 after the British decided to move India's capital from Calcutta. It is a planned city, designed by architect Sir Edwin Lutyens.

Demographics
Not all descendants of the builders of Delhi's many Muslim monuments live in Delhi. Many of them migrated to Pakistan during the Partition, with the community in Old Delhi that is keeping old courtly traditions alive smaller than it once was. The city is rich in monuments, including 174 ASI protected monuments.

The population of Delhi is a heterogeneous mix of people originally belonging to different parts of North India and beyond. Among the prominent North Indian communities are the Punjabis. Delhi also has a prominent South Indian Community, primarily in neighbourhoods like Karol Bagh, RK Puram, Mayur Vihar and Munirka. A Bengali settlement, the Chittaranjan Park in South Delhi, is the Mini Kolkata of Delhi. Quality education also draws students from different states, making up one of the most diverse student populations in the country.

Orientation
Like the rest of the Gangetic Plains, Delhi is relatively flat. The only geographical features of any significance are the river Yamuna, which flows down the eastern side of the city, and the Delhi Ridge which form a wide but low arc across the west. On the west bank is the crowded and congested Old (Central) Delhi and, to the southwest, the broad, tree-lined avenues of New Delhi, built by the British to rule their Raj. The rest is an endless low-rise sprawl of suburbia and slums, with South Delhi generally wealthier.

Climate
The climate in Delhi goes through five distinct seasons. Winter, from December to January, is cold (the temperature drops to near freezing at night though the days are warm) and is notorious for the thick layer of smog that hangs over the city, resulting not only in cancelled flights and delayed trains, but also warnings to stay indoors and wear high-quality masks if you need to venture out. Spring, in the months of February and March, is pleasant with warm days and cool evenings. Summer, in April and May, is uncomfortably hot with temperatures soaring as high as 45 °C. Temperatures moderate during the monsoon season (June to September), but it is humid. Autumn, from October to November, brings warm days with relatively cool nights.

Read

 * Delhi – India Charming Chaos by Johnny Fincioen. This book concentrates on today's power centre of New Delhi and its historical context. The text and the 117 original pictures offer the reader a holistic view of the way of life in the capital of India.
 * Kultar's mime : stories of Sikh children who survived the 1984 Delhi massacre, Sarbpreet Singh's book on the 1984 genocide against Sikhs by anti-Sikh mobs. (ISBN 9781523834136)
 * When a tree shook Delhi : the 1984 carnage and its aftermath, Manoj Mitta; a book on the 1984 anti-Sikh riots. (ISBN 9788174366191)
 * Tibetans in Delhi, by S. Khurana, about refugees from Tibet living in Delhi. (ISBN 9781542954198)
 * Delirious Delhi, Dave Prager; a portrait of Delhi by an expat resident. (ISBN 1611458323)

Tourist information

 * Delhi Tourism website

Talk
The native language of the Delhi area is Hindi, which also happens to be the main official language of the Union Government. Hindi is spoken by almost all locals, quite often with Bihari and Punjabi accents. Most educated people are also fluent in English, and many shopkeepers and taxi drivers have a functional command of English. Punjabi and Urdu are also the official languages of Delhi, both of which are widely spoken/understood by the locals. The Hindi spoken in Delhi is quite Persianized, similar to the Hindi spoken in Western Uttar Pradesh, and much less Sanskritized than the Hindi spoken in Madhya Pradesh. Signage is usually bilingual in Hindi and English, and some road signs (especially in South and Central Delhi) are in Hindi, English, Punjabi and Urdu. Announcements on the metro are in Hindi (male voice) and English (female voice). Unlike other major cities, locals are not multilingual, and local tour guides do not speak other Indian languages. Though people from all over India live in Delhi, finding a person who can speak other Indian languages is not so easy.

By plane


Due to massive growth in air travel, a new airport is being built at Jewar, near Noida.

By bus
Buses arrive from Kathmandu and Chitwan in Nepal (36 hr+) and virtually every city in India. Although not as comfortable as the trains, buses are the only choice for some destinations, mainly those in the mountains.

Delhi has three major Inter-State Bus Terminals (ISBTs) - Kashmere Gate ISBT, Sarai Kale Khan ISBT, and Anand Vihar ISBT. The Delhi Transport Corporation is the major operator, but every state also runs its own buses and there are some private operators too.



By train
Once you have purchased a ticket either at the ticket office or on-line prior to the trip, all you need to do is go to the rail car labelled with your class of service purchased. You can either get on and sit in the first available seat or, for higher classes of service, they will often post a passenger list on the car when it stops. Look for your name and go to the assigned car, cabin and seat. There is never a need to get a boarding pass so if anyone comes out of the crowd to tell you that, don't listen to them; it is a scam. If you're brave, you can simply purchase a general 2nd class ticket and then get on any car where there is availability. The conductor will come by and check your tickets after the train starts moving. If you are in a higher fare class than you are ticketed for, all you have to do is simply pay the difference in fare to the conductor. The only risk here is that the train could be full and you could be stuck in the lowest fare class which can be very crowded with little room to sit.

Ticket buying: The easiest way is to book online through the IRCTC booking website. Registration requires verification of an e-mail address and a mobile phone number.

Do not trust strangers who appear out of the crowd to help you; ignore them. Always ask for assistance at the enquiry counter or policemen (in khaki uniform). Anyone who approaches you spontaneously should be completely ignored. Use one of the porters (in orange uniforms with metallic arms badges) to find your train and carry your luggage, in exchange for a tip.



New Delhi railway station
Transport options to and from New Delhi station:
 * By metro: New Delhi station is served by Yellow and Orange  lines of the Delhi Metro. Metro exits are at the Ajmeri Gate (second entrance) side near platform 16.
 * By taxi: Depending on traffic, a taxi fare costs you about ₹400. Pre-paid taxi booth run by Delhi Police. If you are arriving at the station, and want to take a taxi, head to the Delhi Police pre-paid taxi booth. Unfortunately, this booth is at the extreme far north end (about 50 m from the station main exit) of the taxi parking and you will encounter touts claiming to provide prepaid taxi; just ignore them and find the pre-paid taxi booth run by the Delhi Police which are safe and least expensive. There is some chance that the booth clerk, who works for the police, will shortchange you less than anyone else who handles cash in Delhi. You can also take prepaid rickshaws and taxis from the plaza outside the main entrance.

By rapid rail
Rapid rails, officially known as RAPIDX, are faster than local and express trains. As of 2024, the Sahibabad–Duhai stretch of the Delhi–Meerut rapid rail is operational and you have to wait until 2026 to use rapid rail to arrive Delhi. The trains used on the rapid rails are called Namo Bharat.

Get around
Getting around Delhi is always an adventure. Traffic is, by and large, horribly congested and many drivers will think nothing of quoting ten times the going price to a tourist. Use the prices below as broad guidelines and agree on prices before setting off. The best way to travel is via metro, where there are separate cabins for women (which prove to be very useful during rush hour). Metro is clean, efficient, and typically ridden by relatively affluent middle-class students or commuters en route to/from work; there is almost nowhere in the city that you cannot get to by metro.

By metro


The fast-growing Delhi Metro network provides a cheap, quick, hassle-free and air-conditioned way of zipping around the city. As of May 2018, the following lines are open:


 * Red Line : Dilshad Garden–Rithala
 * Yellow Line : Samaypur Badli–HUDA City Centre
 * Blue Line : Dwarka Sector 21–Noida Electronic City
 * Blue Line branch: Yamuna Bank–Vaishali
 * Green Line : Mundka–Inderlok
 * Green Line branch: Ashok Park Main–Kirti Nagar
 * Violet Line : Kashmere Gate–Ballabhgarh
 * Orange Line : New Delhi–IGI Airport–Dwarka Sector 21
 * Pink Line : Majilis Park–Shiv Vihar
 * Magenta Line : Janakpuri West–Botanical Garden
 * Grey Line : Dwarka–Dhansa

Fares range from ₹10-60, just buy a token, change lines as necessary, and deposit the token in the slot as you exit. Tokens can be used only from the station they are bought, so you can't buy two and use the second to return home. If you're planning on sticking around for a while, you can buy a "Smart Card" for ₹200, which is worth ₹150 and includes a ₹50 deposit; using this saves 10% and, more importantly, lets you avoid the queues. There is also a "Tourist Card" allowing unlimited use for ₹150 (1 day) or ₹300 (3 days), but it's highly unlikely that you'll travel enough to make this pay off. Special fares apply for travel on the Airport Express. During rush hour, you might have to queue up for 20min+ due to security checks, especially in the central stations.

The Yellow Line, in particular, is useful for getting to the Delhi Junction (Chandni Chowk, Jama Masjid) and New Delhi railway stations, the ISBT bus terminal, the backpacker ghetto of Paharganj, Hauz Khas and Qutb Minar. The Blue Line is also handy for visiting Akshardham, Botanical Garden and accessing the western parts of Paharganj through RK Ashram Marg station. The Magenta Line is also useful for getting to the Terminal 1 of Delhi Airport and visiting Hauz Khas, Lotus Temple, Okhla Bird Sanctuary and Botanical Garden.

Beware: Metro stations all use the new, official, Indianised names, so Connaught Place is "Rajiv Chowk", Delhi Junction is "Chandni Chowk" and ISBT is "Kashmere Gate".

The first coach in every train is reserved for women only, violating it incurs a penalty. Male passengers accompanying females are forbidden too.

Be aware that if you wish to exit at a main station during rush hour, you will have to tackle your way through in order to get out before the opposite flow of passengers push you back inside. Don't be afraid of using your strength to push yourself out.

By local train
There are limited commuter services on Delhi's railways, but the facilities are a far cry from the user-friendly Metro stations. For the most part, train stations are inconveniently located. There is no passenger service on the Delhi Ring Railway outside rush hour.

By bus
All parts of Delhi are well connected by buses and with tickets ranging from ₹5-25 they are very cheap, but they are also quite crowded most of the time. The red and blue buses are air-conditioned and the green and orange ones are not. As bus stops do not have bus routes written properly, it can be difficult to find your way. Asking other people at the bus stop is often the best way to find out about bus routes to your destination. However, the buses are pretty frequent, running every 15-20 min or so on most routes. There are two kinds of buses in Delhi:


 * Government run DTC buses (red and green with big windows)
 * Privately run Blue-Line buses (orange)

If you have a choice, opt for a DTC bus. They will stop less frequently and will generally be less crowded too. Note that many buses, DTC ones too, will stop pretty much anywhere if there are enough people getting on or off.

Board buses at the back and pay the ticket seller sitting right next to the door. Be sure to hang onto your tickets, as ticket checks are fairly frequent. Some seats on the left side of the bus may be reserved for women and the handicapped. When it's time to disembark, move to the front of the bus. As you might expect, all these guidelines are regularly ignored when buses are very crowded.

By taxi
A taxi or hired car (usually with driver) is required to see many of the far-flung sites within and around Delhi. However, the metro is a far cheaper and equally comfortable option.

Most Delhi taxis are old but reliable CNG-run Ambassadors or Omnis in distinctive black-and-yellow livery and a green stripe. The hired family car of choice is usually a Toyota Innova or Chevrolet Tavera. While all are equipped with meters and should cost ₹15 for the first km ₹8.5 per km, the meters are often rigged and it's better to agree on the price in advance. Most trips around the city should be ₹200-500, while a trip to the airport would be higher, depending on starting location. An eight-hour charter should cost around ₹1,500, and a tip is expected if the driver is helpful. The prices would also depend upon the vehicle size too. Black and yellow taxis are not air-conditioned. Even if they do have air conditioning, you will be charged extra (and the rates are up to the driver, so bargain hard).

Modern radio taxi services: at ₹20/km, they're more the list price of the competition, but they use modern vehicles with air-conditioning and GPS and can be dialled 24 hr/day. The flag fare is ₹20, and the fare increases by ₹5 for every 250 m after the first km. If you need an SUV, you need to inform the company in advance, but the fare remains the same. Night charges (25% extra) apply between 11PM to 5AM. Book up to a few hours in advance. Many corporate people rely on these cabs for their daily commute and they may be booked during office hours. Tipping is not expected. After booking, you will receive an SMS with the car licence plate number, and the driver's name and mobile number. Usually the driver will call you and inform you that they have arrived. Many drivers speak English at a very basic level, so use short phrases.

You can use TaxiPixi services and avoid all the hassle. Download the app on your iPhone/Android.

Don't take non-official taxis, they might take you to wrong hotels, or to a "tourist information centre", and try to sell you overpriced things. To be on the safe side, Check that whether the driver has their official documentation or not.

Taxi rides involving tourists in Delhi almost always involve minor scams. Most of the time, the driver will demand more money than originally agreed. During the ride, prepare a sum of money that is at least the agreed fare and put in your shirt pocket or comparable spot. At the destination, get your belongings out of the car first and leave the door open to slow the driver down if he follows you. Hand the money to the driver without stupidly asking for change and then immediately walk away as quickly as you can in the direction that would be most difficult for him to follow.

By car
Delhi, The road conditions are generally better than in the rest of India. Traffic jams is a major concern in Delhi. For travelling in Delhi, you can hire a car.

Transportation Network Taxis
Delhi is also serviced by various transportation network ("ridesharing") companies including Uber and Ola Cabs. Make sure to check the tariffs in these before you pay. While most of these services accept cash, many can also be linked to online wallet services like Paytm, so overcharging is rarely a risk.

By auto rickshaws


Auto rickshaws (also called three-wheeled scooters, tuk-tuks or simply autos) are good for shorter trips. Always in a distinctive yellow-and-green livery, auto rickshaws are three-wheeled partially enclosed contraptions that run on CNG and can seat three people in the back. In general, they are much cheaper than taxis and can be hailed from the street. Although by law the rickshaw drivers should charge according to the meter in their vehicle (₹25 for the first two km, ₹8/km after), this rate is unrealistically low and they will almost always try to haggle for price. Try to negotiate a price before entering the vehicle. As rules of thumb, expect even the shortest journey to cost ₹30-40/person regardless of the meter, but you should never need to pay over ₹150 for any trip within the city. If you're overquoted, don't be afraid to walk away. It's usually easy to find another one soon, usually with a driver who won't rip you off.

If you have any trouble with drivers, go to any of the numerous tourist police stations in the city centre and they will give you a complaint slip which will result in a ₹500 fine for the auto driver. There should also be a telephone number written on the vehicle to call in case of any complaint.

There are a number of "Pre-paid" auto stands run by the Police. Tell them where you want to go and pay them upfront. The charge will include ₹5 for the service. You then take the coupon and stand outside where a policeman will direct you to the next available Auto. When your journey is completed you hand the coupon to the auto driver and that's it. Nothing more to pay (despite what they may say).

By cycle rickshaws


Cycle rickshaws are three-wheeled, pedal/electric powered rickshaws with seats in the back to seat passengers and a driver in the front. They are good for short distances, or places which are too far to walk but too short for taking a bus/taxi/auto rickshaw. Cycle rickshaws don't use meters, so establish a price before getting on. ₹20-50 is reasonable for most journeys of a few km.

Cycle rickshaws are best to use in Old Delhi to visit the intricate galis (walkways) and to enjoy the smells and sounds of the city.

By electric rickshaw
Electric rickshaws, popularly known as tuk-tuk or e-rickshaws, are also used to enjoy the streets of Old Delhi. These are battery-operated alternatives to auto rickshaws and cycle rickshaws because of their low fuel cost, and less human effort compared to cycle rickshaws.

By foot
Much of Delhi is quite pedestrian-hostile. Distances are long, road signage is poor, and in the more tourist oriented areas, you'll be constantly accosted by beggars and touts. Crossing roads often involves wading across multiple lanes of heavy traffic. Try your best to move in a predictable straight line, so vehicles can weave around you. Better yet, latch onto a group of locals and cross in their shadow. If you really want to walk around, these places would be good:


 * Walk from Rashtrapati Bhavan (President's house) to India Gate on Kartavya Path (a walk of close to 3–4 km).
 * Walk from Jama Masjid to Red Fort in the Chandni Chowk area.
 * Far South Delhi go walk about in the forest. Try starting from south of Indian Institute of Technology through Sanjay Van to Qutub Minar. Note however that Sanjay Van is not always safe, and it is advisable to go there in a group, preferably during daylight.
 * South Delhi-Green Park-Hauz Khas Village, then to the Hauz Khas ruined madrasa, offers a newer shopping area, an up-market arts village, old ruins, and some quality gardens.

See
Delhi is known for its impressive range of structures — fortifications, mosques, and tombs — built during the centuries when Delhi was the centre of large Muslim empires. There are dozens of notable sites scattered around the city, and several of them are internationally famous as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The most visited sites are the Red Fort (the 17th century palace of the Mughal emperor), Jama Masjid (a vast and beautiful 17th century mosque), the Qutub Minar (a 73-meter high tower, dating to the 13th century but still with well-preserved intricate carvings), Humayun's Tomb (the vast 16th century tomb of a Mughal emperor), and Purana Qila (a 16th-century Mughal citadel).

Newcomers are often confused about the relationship between Delhi and New Delhi. In fact, New Delhi, the capital of India, is actually one of the districts of Delhi. New Delhi was built in 1911–12. Being centrally planned in the modern era, it features wide boulevards, large parks, and roundabouts between its government buildings. Popular sights here are the India Gate, Kartavya Path "national mall" connecting the main government buildings, and Rashtrapati Bhavan (presidential palace). Many of the most important museums in Delhi are located here too.

Another popular attraction is the Bahá'í Lotus Temple in South East Delhi, a modern structure built with a flower-like shape. It is arguably the most visited building in the world.

Detailed listings of all sights in Delhi can be found in the district articles.

The staff at the Delhi tourist office is very helpful, and the office has a lot of free information:

Do

 * Take a walk at Connaught Place (CP), the heart of New Delhi. The British-designed colonial equivalent of a shopping mall, it's laid out in two concentric rings divided into blocks, all bursting with shops and lots of pampered pigeons waddling about. Long neglected, the area received an upsurge after the opening of the major Metro junction of Rajiv Chowk under it, and it's going more upmarket by the day. At the centre is a small but pleasant park, while on one edge is the notorious Palika Bazaar, an underground den of cheap wares, many pirated or smuggled from overseas. The area is surrounded by tall office buildings on nearly all sides. Train fans will want to check out the Metro Museum inside the (Patel Chowk) station, open Tu-Su 10AM-4PM (free with valid Metro ticket).

Learn
Delhi is a key centre of learning in India. The most famous universities in Delhi are JNU, DU, IGNOU, DTU, JMI and IIT. The official website of the Delhi Government's Directorate of Education is a good starting point for learning more about study opportunities in Delhi.

Apart from undergraduate, postgraduate and doctoral courses, there are many training and diploma-level institutes and polytechnics that cater to the growing demand for skill-based and vocational education. Besides conventional educational institutes, more and more foreigners also make the effort to learn Hindustani language (Hindi-Urdu) and Delhi is these languages.

Work
Delhi's economy is expanding rapidly. In analogy many interesting work opportunities emerge. Monster, Jobted and other online job platforms are a good starting point to see what kind of jobs are on offer. Traditionally foreigners often work in the social sector or in teaching. Increasingly, however, expats work for multinational companies and even local Indian companies.

There is a great variety of employment opportunities in Delhi for foreigners, whether they would like to work in business, NGOs, educational institutes, or even government. Still, there is one caveat: the labour market in Delhi is highly competitive and so at many prestigious organisations, the number of applicants far exceeds the number of positions available, which allows employers to receive highly talented applicants for rather meagre salaries (especially when compared to other international destinations).

Buy
If you're not afraid to haggle and bump elbows in bazaars, Delhi is a great place to shop. Most of the well-known bazaars are located in the most central parts of Delhi, both Central Delhi and New Delhi. Western-style malls are plentiful and are found further south - in South Delhi and South East Delhi, as well as the suburbs of Gurgaon and Noida. Many shopping districts are overcrowded on Saturdays and closed on Sundays.

Clothing
For clothing, you can go either to the bazaars or to Western-style shopping malls (mostly in the southern areas).

Computers
For computers and software, the best place to look is Nehru Place IT market complex in South East Delhi, an interesting combination of modern technology products and old world marketplace sales techniques. You can find cheap hardware here as well as both original and pirated software. There are also several similar markets in other parts of Delhi, mostly in the Western districts.

Books
The Indian book industry is huge, producing annually about 15,000 books in English, and obviously far more in Hindi and other native languages. Delhi is a hub of this industry, so there are small, specialist bookstores that abound. Locally produced books can be very inexpensive and many popular Western titles are published and available here for a fraction of their original cost.

In general, good places to buy books are in Central Delhi (Daryaganj neighbourhood and the Nai Sarak Bookshop Area), plus shopping malls in the south of the city.

The Daryaganj Sunday Book Market is a flea market-book market open on Sundays from 10AM to evening, with a vast selection. Bargain for best prices.

Eat


Delhiites complain about many things in their city, but the food will satisfy even the most demanding gourmet. Not only can you find some of the best Indian food on the subcontinent, but there is also an increasing number of excellent (if often pricey) international restaurants offering cuisine from around the world. When ordering, do remember that Delhi is about 1,000 km from the nearest ocean, so vegetarian, chicken and mutton dishes are the way to go.

Do visit Paranthe Wali Gali in Chandni Chowk. This street has shops that make and sell solely parathas (stuffed Indian bread). These are available in all the possible flavours and stuffing you may imagine, with hundreds of varieties from bitter gourd to ice cream.

Delhi has arguably the best street food in India. However, do not eat unhygienic or open food. There are plenty of restaurants offering street food in a potentially more hygienic environment.

You can join local groups of foodies who go out regularly to sample and savour what new and old dishes the city has to offer. If you want a fully customized food tour tailored specifically for you, then Food Tour In Delhi is a good choice. The guests can explore the street food of Delhi in a fun and safe manner. Their tours cover food joints which are in business for 50 to 120 years and serve some of the best street food in the world. The tours cover winding streets of Old Delhi as well as swanky upscale markets located all over the city. The food tours are led by chefs and culinary experts with extensive experience and offer facilities such as pickup and drop, unlimited food which covers all major varieties of food available in the city. Another one of the most active groups is Food Enthusiasts of Delhi. They organize regular food walks, better known as Raids to various parts and joints in the city. It's a non-commercial group, brought together by their passion and love for food.

The best place to go for chaat is the Bengali Market (near Mandi House Metro Stn) near Connaught Place in the centre of town. The restaurants are high quality and the food is great. There are ATMs as well. One of the best known restaurants there is Nathu's. But for the really good chaat, you have to make your way to Old Delhi, and particularly to Ashok's near Chawri Bazaar. While connoisseurs insist that the best chaat is prepared on the street, most travellers try to find a comfortable middle ground between hygiene and authenticity.

Drink
Delhi's nightlife scene has changed in the last decade. There are plenty of modern, cosmopolitan places to separate you from your rupees. In a desperate attempt to keep the sex ratio vaguely equitable, many lounges and clubs have couples only policies (that is, no single men or men-only groups), enforced with varying degrees of strictness. While everything is supposed to shut down by 1AM, things can keep going much longer.

The coffee culture in Delhi consists mostly of large, heavily standardised chains. The two most common, Barista and Cafe Coffee Day, can be found in multiple locations across the city, most notably around Connaught Place. The UK-based Costa Coffee and the US-based Starbucks have also made a foray into the market. For listings of independent coffee shops, see the district articles.

Sleep
Prices quoted may not include taxes of up to 22.5%, calculated based on the published rack rates - not necessarily the price that you actually pay, which could be discounted. Smoking is not allowed in Delhi hotels.

Budget
Delhi has plenty of budget accommodation options, priced from ₹400-2,500. Many of them are located in the city centre (Central Delhi and New Delhi), while others are further south, in the affluent southern areas or towards the airport.

Mid-range
Delhi's chronic lack of quality hotels has led to a mushrooming of guest houses of widely varying quality and price. The new official 'Delhi Bed and Breakfast scheme' has also contributed a range of private rooms available for bed & breakfast accommodation. These rooms range from cheap dumps to classy rooms in the best areas of Delhi.

Splurge
Most of Delhi's expensive hotels are in New Delhi, roughly along the axis between Connaught Square and the airport. A few are located in areas further south and west. Prices in this category are generally over ₹8000.

Stay safe


Many first-time travellers to India find themselves falling victim to scams and touts, and unfortunately Delhi has a lot of both. Be on guard for anybody trying to help you by giving you unsolicited directions or travel advice. Do not blindly rely on the advice of taxi and auto drivers. If this is your first time to India, do not openly admit it, as this will make you more vulnerable to touts.

Delhi is among the three unsafest cities for women in India. It is considered as the 'rape capital of the world'. It is not uncommon in some areas to receive lewd remarks or even physical touching. If you are arriving into Delhi at night, stay in either the airport lounge or well lit areas until daybreak if this is your first trip to Delhi and if you haven't booked a hotel. Try to avoid walking around alone in lanes without many people after sunset and be cautious when hiring cabs at night. Dress conservatively (preferably in Indian clothing so as to blend in). Learn to shout and consider carrying mace/pepper spray.

Carry your cash, passport, and cards in a secure money belt, with only enough cash for a few hours at a time in your wallet or other accessible place. Some recommend carrying an expendable wallet with a few ten rupee notes in it in an obvious place such as your hip pocket as a decoy to Delhi's ubiquitous pickpockets.

Several tourist agencies have been known to swindle tourists, such as by changing their travel plans or charging them extra commissions and fees. The best way to secure train tickets is by navigating through Indian Railways' website. If you have problems booking online - the Indian Railways site is unreliable - you can buy tickets in person. The best place to do so is at the Tourist Information Centre, these are located within transit hubs. Be very careful, there are many scammers surrounding the train station looking for anyone on foot and out-of-place who will "help" you find a "ticket office for foreigners," usually located in a nondescript building some blocks from the train station, where you will be overcharged and cajoled into signing up for cars, tours, etc. When in doubt, look at reviews for the information centre you are at (for example, on Google Maps). Some scammers will stand at the entrance to the train station and physically try to block you from entering, demanding to see your tickets (never mind that you need to enter the station to buy tickets!). Remember - you should be able to enter any train station just by going through a metal detector. Nobody will check your tickets before you get on a train (As a measure to control crowding at stations, many train stations may require you to purchase a platform ticket (usually costs ₹10-20) if you are just visiting and do not have a railway ticket with you.

You should also book your flight tickets online, as all the airlines have online booking systems. Otherwise, prepare to spend a good hour sorting through the charges that the tourist agency will charge.

If arriving late at night at the airport or train station, be very wary of taxi drivers trying to scam tired and unprepared tourists. A common scam is to drive you an area of town where there are roadworks or a roadblock, and tell you that the path to your hotel is blocked off and it's not possible to take you there. They'll then suggest to take you to another hotel, where they receive a commission for bringing customers. They may take you to a number of hotels first which all say they are full up, so as to increase your desperation, and hence openness to paying more. There have been reports also, of bringing tourists to a "travel agent", who will feign ringing your booked hotel to confirm that either the way is blocked, or they are overbooked and there is no room available. If you've let on that you were only staying in Delhi for the night, they may also try to convince you, that there are no hotel rooms available anywhere, and sell you an extremely overpriced private car ride to your next destination. This can be a very confusing and tiring process if you've just come off a long flight, short on sleep.

If you're arriving after midnight, it is therefore highly advisable to have accommodation pre-booked and arrange pick-up from the airport or station with your hotel, or at least have the phone number with you, so that should you get lost or caught in a sticky situation you have someone reliable to call up.

Practically everyone who handles your cash in Delhi will shortchange you, including the clerks at the police taxi kiosk at the airport and ticket sellers at historic sites and museums. It will be your word against theirs, so the only protection is to just not need change. Learn the money ASAP. Count out the smallest sum you can produce that is at least the price you need to pay. If they claim you didn't pay what you actually paid, write the cash off, walk away, and go somewhere else.

Delhi Police
The Delhi Police is a 70,000-strong force serving the capital region. While some of the police officers are honest and helpful, others may be corrupt and unhelpful.

For police assistance during an emergency dial 100.

Police vehicles (called PCR vans) are parked on almost every major intersection.

For non-emergencies, or to report a crime, visit the nearest police station.

Stay healthy
Summer begins in early April and continues till the end of June, with the heat peaking in May. By the latter part of April or during early May. The temperatures regularly exceed 40 °C (104 °F), meaning that proper hydration is of the utmost importance. Keep yourself covered in summers to avoid a heat stroke. Drink a lot of water — around 3 litres a day — particularly in the summer.

Winter arrives in Delhi by late November or early December and continues till mid-February. In winter there can be seasonal fog; on particularly foggy days, it can be difficult to see across the street. If you are flying in or out Delhi during the winters, be aware of fog-related flight delays.

Drink only packaged bottled water to avoid water-related illness. Sticking to freshly- and well-cooked food will lessen your chances on acquiring the "Delhi belly".

Delhi is one of the most polluted cities in the world, with pollution levels often in the "severe" or "hazardous" range. Keep an eye on air quality data and consider wearing a surgical mask or other approved N95/N99 mask, especially if spending an extended time in Delhi or North India.

Connect
Cell phone coverage in the city is excellent. There are three major service providers offering a wide variety of plans. Among them are Airtel, Vodafone and Jio. It might be a good idea to buy a cell phone and use one of those prepaid plans to get yourself connected while you are in the city.

Phone numbers in Delhi begin with 011, typically followed by eight digits. To call Delhi from outside India you will need to dial the international prefix for your country, followed by India's country code 91. If you want to dial a landline no. from a mobile, then you have to add 011 before the number.

Delhi emergency numbers
Here are the Delhi emergency contact numbers

Cope
Power outages and water shortages are common in Delhi, often occurring multiple times a day with summers being particularly bad. Better accommodation have water tanks and generators to alleviate the inconvenience, but keep a flashlight handy at night and do your part by not wasting too much water.


 * Laundry service is offered in most hotels, even in budget accommodation. If you would rather save the money and do it yourself, buckets are found in almost all bathrooms - but perhaps wash it out well first.
 * Exercising outdoors is not recommended due to the level of pollution and swimming in rivers is also not recommended. Instead, look for a hotel with a gym or a pool since many offer day passes. You can always try a morning or evening walk in the parks.

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Go next
Delhi is a major international transit hub for trains, planes and buses as well as a great connection point for domestic destinations within India. It's also a great base for exploration of the famous Hill Stations.


 * Agra and the Taj Mahal are a 3-6 hr drive or 2-5 hr train ride each way. By road, the Taj Mahal can be reached in 3 hrs through Yamuna Expressway from Delhi. Book tickets in the train cars with seats far in advance, and look for the seats put aside especially for tourists. You can also rent a car and driver for the day and shouldn't pay more than ₹5,000 roundtrip (if not less). The Taj Mahal is closed on Friday.
 * Bandhavgarh National Park and the Bandhavgarh Fort are the tiger reserves in Madhya Pradesh. This is a tiger preservation project and has the highest density of tigers in India.
 * Char Dham - Delhi is the starting point of the famous pilgrimage centres Badrinath (the abode of Vishnu), Kedarnath (the abode of Shiva), Gangothri and Yamunothri (the origin of sacred rivers Ganges and Yamuna respectively).
 * Corbett National Park, the first national park of the country, is around 5 hours' drive from Delhi
 * Dharamsala, the seat of the Dalai Lama's government in exile, is 10-12 hr to the north. Tickets can be purchased from Main Bazaar Tourist offices, Majnu ka Tilla Tibetan Settlement or the I.S.B.T.
 * Gurgaon (Gurugram) a southern suburb of Delhi, is a 1 hr drive or a metro ride away.
 * Jaipur and Rajasthan are reachable by plane or overnight train.
 * The holy cities of Haridwar and Rishikesh, in the foothills of the Himalayas, are a 5-6 hr bus or train ride away.
 * Lahore, in neighbouring Pakistan, also houses Mughal-era architecture and is connected through the Delhi–Lahore Bus or the Samjhauta Express.
 * Kathmandu, in neighbouring Nepal, is a roughly 36+ hr by coach, or longer (but more comfortably) on a combination of train and coach.
 * Ride the Maharajas' Express, a luxury train running between Delhi and Mumbai.
 * Mussoorie - one of the original British hill stations in India; also known as The Queen of the Hills.
 * Nainital - another beautiful hill station in the Kumaon hills with the magnificent Naini Lake.
 * Shimla - the summer capital of British India, now the state capital of Himachal Pradesh. It has many scenic and historic locations and is about an 8 hr drive or 10 hr in a bus. A direct flight from Delhi takes just 1 hr to reach Shimla.