Darjeeling

Darjeeling (Nepali: दार्जिलिङ Dārjiliṅ, Bengali: দার্জিলিং Dārjiliṁ) is a hill station in the northern region of West Bengal. It used to be a lovely Victorian town built among the Himalayan foothills, the remnants of which are still visible around the Chowrasta. Darjeeling remains a popular summer and fall resort for the natives of Kolkata today. The main attractions are the cultural diversity of the Tibetan and Nepali populations. The town is also a jumping off point for travelers heading to Sikkim.

Understand


Darjeeling (DAHR-jih-lihng) used to be a cluster of villages that was administered intermittently by Nepal and Sikkim. It grew in prominence during the mid-19th century when, because of its climate, the British established a hill station there.

Later it was discovered that the area was particularly well suited for tea plantations and Darjeeling tea is still exported worldwide. In 1849, the British annexed the area and Darjeeling became a part of British India. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway was opened in 1881 (it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the town became famous during the days when the Raj was governed from Calcutta, the present-day Kolkata.

Many Tibetan refugees moved here after Tibet was annexed by China. They co-exist with the descendants of the many Nepalese who once came to the land as soldiers of Prithvi Narayan Shah and settled down there to work as labourers in the tea plantations.

There has been intermittent political action from Gorkha groups demanding an independent state (Gorkhaland). In June 2008 a strike paralyzed the area, with closed hotels, restaurants and shops, and the accompanying protests even turned violent a couple of times. Though inconvenient, tourists generally are not at risk, but you should check the status before going there.

Talk
Nepali is the main language spoken in Darjeeling. However, as it is in the state of West Bengal, Bengali is the state official language that is used in state government offices. In addition, most well-educated locals will also be able to speak Hindi and English.

By plane
The nearest international airport is Bagdogra in Siliguri, 96 km from Darjeeling. There are flights from Bangkok, Paro and to most major cities in India.

By taxi or shared terrain vehicle
Siliguri is the nearest city on the mainline rail network. Ample transport is available to Darjeeling from here, a 3-hour drive on a well-maintained, hilly paved road. The most popular modes of transport are taxi (usually shared by three to four passengers), shared terrain vehicle (ten passengers), ₹150-200 depending on time.

Shared terrain vehicles depart regularly from several locations around town. They leave when full, and are a cheap, fast and reasonably comfortable way to reach Darjeeling.

After arrival by train at New Jalpaiguri (NJP) in Siliguri, taxis (₹1500-3000) and shared terrain vehicles continue the trip to Darjeeling. There is a booking counter at the taxi stand in front of the railway station. There is a prepaid taxi stand in front of the train station. After the last terrain vehicle has left to make a return journey from Darjeeling, the price rises to ₹200 per person. The prepaid counter will state that no terrain vehicles are available, but they can be arranged by fixers or by negotiating directly with drivers.

Tourists often opt to buy an extra seat or two to have more space for the three-hour journey up to Darjeeling. Luggage is carried for free on the roof (try to hire a taxi, terrain vehicle, or SUV with overhead carrier). Terrain vehicles may stop for a snack and toilet break on the way up (normally a few kilometres short of Kurseong).

By bus
There are buses from Siliguri to Darjeeling, but they are slow due to the steep, twisted, narrow climb to Darjeeling. The option of shared terrain vehicles is available and it is cheap and faster. But terrain vehicles wait for a full load of passengers before departing.

If the bus price is ₹113 to Darjeeling from New Jalpaiguri, consider hiring a taxi, Terrain vehicle or SUV with overhead carrier. This will be cheaper if the vehicle goes directly from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling.

There are also bus services from Nepal, see India.

By train
New Jalpaiguri (NJP) in Siliguri is the nearest station on the main inter-city line. Direct trains to NJP run from Delhi (approx. 27 hours) several times daily. From Kolkata's (Sealdah railway station), the best train is the Darjeeling Mail (circa 12 hours) running nightly at 10:05PM. There is also a train from Howrah Station called Paharia Express, departing from Howrah Station at 9:55PM and arriving at New Jalpaiguri at 8:45AM.

From NJP, the famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR), known as the 'Toy Train', completes the journey to Darjeeling. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway was the first, and still the most outstanding, example of a hill passenger railway. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This route is popular with tourists as it passes through picturesque mountain scenery and has been the subject of many articles. The line has a series of zigzags and loops to gain height and even runs straight up several village main streets!

Seats on the DHR Toy Train sell out in peak season, so make reservations up to one month in advance. The train departs New Jalpaiguri at 9AM and arrives in Darjeeling at 3:30PJ, but only on certain days of the week. The train is diesel-hauled now and is reliable and punctual.

The steam 'Joy' train operates from Darjeeling to Ghum via the Batasia Loop, four times a day – enquire at Darjeeling station. Steam trains cost ₹2200 and diesel trains cost ₹1200. See the DHR website.

A steam train also operates between Siliguri and 'Agony Point' above Tindharia most Saturdays and Sundays. Enquire at Siliguri station.

There is also a daily 'School Train' departing Kurseong at 6:15AM and arriving at Darjeeling at 8:45AM. It leaves Darjeeling at 4PM and arrives at Kurseong at 6:30PM. This is still hauled by a steam engine and is one of the world's last 'day to day' steam trains. Its schedule is frequently changed and it often runs hours late.

Get around
Darjeeling is a small town and the salubrious climate means walks around town are an extremely enjoyable means of getting around. For longer trips, taxis are available in stands near the entrance to the Supermarket.

A great way to spend a day is to take a share-terrain vehicle to Ghum, visit some monasteries there and walk back via some of the villages.

One can also walk to the botanical garden and spend a few pleasant hours appreciating nature, then there is a rock garden, which is very much at a (slightly longish) walkable distance. One can also walk to the zoo and then to the ropeway at North Point. A walk to the Peace Pagoda and then to Jalapahar is also quite refreshing. Have a leisurely walk on the Mall road and relax for hours in the soothing sun at Chowrasta.

Do
Darjeeling is one of the oldest hill stations in India, and has plenty of options, both for those seeking a lazy getaway from the hot plains, as well as nature enthusiasts and adrenaline junkies. Apart from sights within the town, there are plenty of trek options along the Himalayan ridges on the India-Nepal border near Darjeeling. The most popular one is the Singalila Ridge Trail. Bookings for guides, porters and accommodation on the trail can be made in Darjeeling or in the nearby town of Manebhanjang, which serves as the trailhead. From July to mid-September the Singalila park is closed, but because of the rain, clouds and fog it is less enjoyable anyway.



Buy



 * Curio items pertaining to Tibetan and Himalayan cultures, such as thangkas, miniature monasteries and garments made from yak wool. Shops are located in and around the Rink Mall, Chowrasta and Darjeeling Local Haat:
 * Tea. Darjeeling is famous all over the world for its teas, which are very aromatic and have a delicate taste. Shops selling teas (usually owned by local tea gardens), dot the area in and around the Mall, and at the Chowrasta. Golden Tips & Nathmulls are especially known for their tea and also ship worldwide. Another mention is a local tea shop, Thunderbolt Tea located on the way to Happy Valley Tea Estate. Stop by to smell the numerous varieties they have to offer. 'Darjeeling Tea House' located just diagonal to Nathmulls is also a good place to purchase tea. Location: Rink Mall
 * Tea. Darjeeling is famous all over the world for its teas, which are very aromatic and have a delicate taste. Shops selling teas (usually owned by local tea gardens), dot the area in and around the Mall, and at the Chowrasta. Golden Tips & Nathmulls are especially known for their tea and also ship worldwide. Another mention is a local tea shop, Thunderbolt Tea located on the way to Happy Valley Tea Estate. Stop by to smell the numerous varieties they have to offer. 'Darjeeling Tea House' located just diagonal to Nathmulls is also a good place to purchase tea. Location: Rink Mall
 * Tea. Darjeeling is famous all over the world for its teas, which are very aromatic and have a delicate taste. Shops selling teas (usually owned by local tea gardens), dot the area in and around the Mall, and at the Chowrasta. Golden Tips & Nathmulls are especially known for their tea and also ship worldwide. Another mention is a local tea shop, Thunderbolt Tea located on the way to Happy Valley Tea Estate. Stop by to smell the numerous varieties they have to offer. 'Darjeeling Tea House' located just diagonal to Nathmulls is also a good place to purchase tea. Location: Rink Mall
 * Tea. Darjeeling is famous all over the world for its teas, which are very aromatic and have a delicate taste. Shops selling teas (usually owned by local tea gardens), dot the area in and around the Mall, and at the Chowrasta. Golden Tips & Nathmulls are especially known for their tea and also ship worldwide. Another mention is a local tea shop, Thunderbolt Tea located on the way to Happy Valley Tea Estate. Stop by to smell the numerous varieties they have to offer. 'Darjeeling Tea House' located just diagonal to Nathmulls is also a good place to purchase tea. Location: Rink Mall
 * Tea. Darjeeling is famous all over the world for its teas, which are very aromatic and have a delicate taste. Shops selling teas (usually owned by local tea gardens), dot the area in and around the Mall, and at the Chowrasta. Golden Tips & Nathmulls are especially known for their tea and also ship worldwide. Another mention is a local tea shop, Thunderbolt Tea located on the way to Happy Valley Tea Estate. Stop by to smell the numerous varieties they have to offer. 'Darjeeling Tea House' located just diagonal to Nathmulls is also a good place to purchase tea. Location: Rink Mall

Currency Exchange. Riddhi Siddhi Exchange in Darjeeling. 11 Laden La Rd. Up hill from the Foreigner's Registration Office. It may give you better rates for larger amounts.

Eat
Several eateries that dish out North Indian, Nepali, Tibetan, and continental fare dot the area around the Mall. "Momos", steamed Tibetan delicacies, are a staple food offered by almost every eating joint.

Everything closes pretty early in the night (The town goes to sleep before 9PM; plan to be at your restaurant no later than 7PM). If you are planning to stay up late, you might keep something extra in stock to eat.


 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.
 * Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.

Drink

 * Joey's Pub – Pop into Joey's Pub for some cheap beer, great hospitality, cricket on TV etc. A British-looking pub popular with travellers. A good place to pick up trekking information and travel partners to fill a terrain vehicle to Sikkim or down to the plains.
 * Tea – Darjeeling tea is world renowned after all. Also called the 'Champagne of Teas', You can taste and buy the best teas in the market & at Tea Cosy, the tea parlours with an excellent environment located inside the Rink Mall and at the Golden Tips Chowrasta.
 * Tea – Darjeeling tea is world renowned after all. Also called the 'Champagne of Teas', You can taste and buy the best teas in the market & at Tea Cosy, the tea parlours with an excellent environment located inside the Rink Mall and at the Golden Tips Chowrasta.

Sleep
Darjeeling has a large number of hotels and lodges. However, on the whole, budget accommodation is of poor value compared to elsewhere in India. Most places target groups coming in from West Bengal; backpacker-oriented accommodation is sparse and you probably won't get touts coming to pick you up at the bus stop so it pays to have a few ideas in advance.

There are several forest guesthouses in the Darjeeling area. In order to stay at any of these a special permit from West Bengal Forest Department is required.

Budget

 * there are also dormitories available but these tend to be booked out.
 * there are also dormitories available but these tend to be booked out.

Stay safe
There has been a surge of tourists visiting Darjeeling in the last few years. Earlier, there was continuous turmoil and political disturbance in the hills. But since the establishment of the new government in 2011, the political stability has been restored and life came back to normal.

But extreme suffering and poor state of business, development, jobs and infrastructure has created deep scars, which may take some more time to heal. So a note of caution is given while travelling around the city.

Take caution when walking at night, as many feral dogs roam the street once the sun goes down. If approached by an aggressive dog in the street, acting as though you are picking up a rock to throw will usually deter them.

Go next

 * Kalimpong - (50 km away) a hill station in Lesser Himalaya and is recognized for educational institutions. Most of those were formulated during the British colonial period. The town has many religious sightseeing places apart from beautiful views of mountains.
 * Kurseong - (35 km away) home to the most expensive teas in the entire world. Some popular tea gardens such as Ambotia, Makaibari and Castleton produce special aromas which are difficult to cultivate elsewhere.
 * Mirik - (50 km away) nestled in the serene hills of Darjeeling, It is a picturesque location. Mirik has become a highly famous tourist place because of its natural beauty, climate and easy accessibility.
 * Sikkim - (100 km away) with more than 40% of the area covered with forest, Sikkim boasts of its natural beauty. It is well known for its lush green valleys and snow-covered hills.
 * Siliguri - (80 km away) on the banks of the Mahananda River, Siliguri is a prime educational, transportation, tourism and commercial centre in West Bengal. The town also acts as a key transit point for railway, road and air traffic to the northeastern states of India and other neighbouring countries such as Bhutan and Nepal.