Damascus

Damascus (دمشق Dimaşk) is the capital of Syria and its second largest city after Aleppo. Damascus was the capital of the Umayyad Caliphate during the Islamic Golden Age. It is entitled the City of Jasmine and is a major cultural centre in the Levant and the Arab world. The city is home to about 2.5 million people (2022), and the metropolitan area to 5 million.

Understand
Established between 10,000 to 8,000 BCE, Damascus is credited with being the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. The world heritage listed old-walled city, in particular, feels very ancient and largely consists of a maze of narrow alleys, punctuated by enigmatic doors that lead into pleasing, verdant courtyards and blank-faced houses. The old city still has an authentic medieval feel to it, although this was quickly vanishing due to the increasing tourist traffic as the city continued to be highlighted as an attraction. Life, however, goes on in the old-walled city, which is still the religious and social centre of the city.

Due to the Syrian Civil War which began in 2011, many services in the city, including transportation, accommodation and consular services, have been severely disrupted. Power interruptions are frequent, the Syrian pound currency has been subject to hyperinflation (to the point where prices listed here are meaningless) and the war is not far from mind even during the brief moments when life goes on normally. Many have left the country, been drafted into military service or killed in action.

Large parts of the article describes the situation before the war. Travel to most of Damascus is still considered very unsafe.

By plane
As of 2024, flights to Damascus are very limited. SyrianAir and FlyBaghdad offers flights from Abu Dhabi, Amman, Baghdad, Dubai, Doha and Kuwait City several times per week, and some flights from Moscow, Yerevan and Tehran. There are domestic flights from Al-Qamishli as well.

Only taxi companies are allowed to pickup customers from the airport. Taxi fares may vary depending on your bargaining skills. There are also buses departing to and from Baramkeh bus station in the centre of town (airport buses are the only ones which serve this bus station now - all other services have moved to the new out of town Soumaria bus station). There are departures every half an hour, 24 hours a day. At the airport, come out of the terminal and turn right - you will find the bus at the end of the building. There is a small ticket office. The bus will drop you a bit far from the Old City, but there many taxis around to get you there. Make sure to ask for the meter.



By train
As of early 2024, all long-distance train services to Damascus are still suspended, including the once-weekly sleeper trains from Istanbul and Tehran. The historic Hejaz station in the city centre remains closed and future services will depart and arrive at from Al-Qadam railway station south of the city centre.



By car
Service Taxis are available to Amman and Irbid in Jordan. Depending on the political situation, these also service Beirut and other points in Lebanon, as well as points in Iraq. Since the closure of the more central Baramkeh Station, these service taxis leave from Soumaria (pronounced like the girls' names "Sue Maria"), which is a 10- to 15-minute taxi ride from central Damascus, along Autostrade Mezzeh. The bus number 15 and 21 will take you to Soumaria station from the bus stop next to Matry's place.

By bus
Damascus is well served by buses internally in the country. There are two bus stations: the western bus station serves destinations west and south (including Amman and Beirut), while the northern bus station serves destinations north (including Aleppo).

Regular buses to Damascus leave Amman, Jordan, the trip including crossing the border takes about 4 hours and cost approximately 6-9 Jordanian dinars.

Hatay Turizm from Antakya, Turkey, has regular buses to the city. You can board on these in Istanbul as well. Normally, you will have to reserve a seat one day or more in advance, and although prices may vary, you can get a bus ticket for 80 Turkish lira.

When arriving into Damascus by bus, make sure to move away from the bus terminal to find a taxi to the city centre. Otherwise, you run the risk of paying several times the going rate, as cars posing as taxis operate next to the terminal. This is normally a two-man operation, with one person trying to distract you, while the driver puts your bags into the boot (trunk) of the "taxi" and locks it.

Upon arrival at the western bus station, city bus #15 will take you to Al-Marjeh Square in Souq Sarouja/Old Town (where you can find many hotels).

Get around
At rush hours (10:00-16:00), the best way of transport is on foot. Smoking is absolutely forbidden on all public transport.

By foot
A very good idea is to go on foot especially for a sightseeing, and it's the only way to get around in Old Damascus. Walking in the new city however, should be reserved to the nicer areas of Maliki and Abu-Rumaneh, as the new city tends to be pollution clogged. The driving culture in Damascus is not the safest, so beware as a pedestrian, especially in the new city. Cars will not hesitate to come extremely close to pedestrians or other cars in order to pass.

By car
It isn't a very good idea to rent a car in Damascus. There is almost always a traffic jam, especially in summer, and parking tends to be difficult too; although that isn't the situation in suburbs.

By bus
Micro buses, also known as servees, are one of the main sources of transportation in Damascus. You can go from one place to another in Damascus with one or at most two journeys. When on the bus, give any passenger a coin and they will pass it to the driver and return the change. Remember to tell that passenger how many people you are paying for, whether you are in a group, or that you are paying "for one" ("waahid") if you are alone. The route is written (in Arabic only) on the roof sign. Micro buses do not generally have fixed stops except at very busy points, just beckon to the driver and they will stop near you (Al yameen, andak iza samaht).

There are also many city buses. One useful bus is #15, which runs from Al-Marjeh Square (Souq Sarouja\Old Town) to the Western Bus Station, which serves Beirut and Amman.

By taxi
Taxis are plentiful in Damascus, making them a great mode of transportation. The taxis of Star Taxi, a private company, are more expensive than normal taxis, but they are also more comfortable and safer. You can call their headquarters and they will send the nearest taxi to your door. Taxis with the Damascus Governorate logo on the side and a number on the roof sign are normally equipped with a meter, and it is best to use only these when hailing a taxi on the street. You should normally leave a tip as well as the fare on the meter. At night, taxi drivers do not usually use the meter, so you may be best off negotiating the price before you get in. A service taxi to Amman or Beirut takes around 4 hours and run 24 hours. Do not hesitate to take them; they are clean vehicles with air conditioning.

See


The Souq al-Hamidiyya, a broad street packed with tiny shops, is entered through columns from a Roman temple built on a site that had been occupied by an even older temple. The souqs themselves smell of cumin and other distinctive spices and you can find passages dedicated to everything from leather and copper goods to inlaid boxes and silk scarves.

At the end of Souq al-Hamidiyya stands the great Umayyad mosque; this building with three minarets is an architectural wonder. It was an Assyrian temple, then a Roman temple to Jupiter, a church when Rome converted to Christianity, then a mosque and a church together, and finally a mosque until now. All the symbols are still pretty much there and some Christian drawings can still be very clearly seen on the walls inside. The mosque contains the grave of John the Baptist (prophet Yahya to Muslims) inside the main lounge. Muslims also believe that this is the site where Jesus will descent back to Earth on his Second Coming. Women are asked to be to cover their hair, arms and legs. Abayas(full-body covers) are provided with the entrance ticket. It is one of the most sacred sites of Islam, and it welcomes foreign tourists, who are allowed to walk around the prayer area.

At the other end of Souq al-Hamidiyya is a fort-like section of the extant city wall that is the Citadel (but make sure to visit Aleppo's Citadel for a truly amazing experience).

Nearby, you can visit the Mausoleum of Salah al-Din, known in the west as Saladin, the chief anti-crusader. There's a great statue of him on horseback right next to the citadel, which will make you gasp. If you walk all the way around it, there are two dejected Frankish knights underneath the horse's slightly lifted tail. These two knights are identified by inscriptions as Guy de Lusignan, King of Jerusalem, and Reynald de Chatillon, lord of Kerak, an important fortress in the Holy Land. Both were captured during Salah al-Din's definitive victory at Hattin; Guy was imprisoned in Damascus and eventually released, but Reynald was executed as punishment for his many atrocities.

Old Damascus


The ancient city of Damascus had seven city gates, of which four remains to be seen. Most of the walls surrounding the old town have however disappeared.



Do

 * View the city from Mount Qasioun is a must-do activity in Damascus as it offers a panoramic view. The peak is accessible at any time, although the view is perhaps most spectacular at night when the whole city is lit up and the minarets of mosques are bathed in green light. The Umayyad Mosque in the old town is particularly impressive when viewed from the mountain. There is a wide range of food and refreshment available on the peak from stalls to fancy restaurants that serve good local cuisine and alcohol. Check the price before you get too comfortable though as it is a well-known scam for taxi drivers to take you to their 'favorite' cafe, where you'll end up paying a fortune for a cup of tea.
 * Visit a restaurant in old Damascus. There are many restaurants in the old quarter each with their own unique character, but perhaps the most famous (and touristy) is "Beit Jabri", although "Al-Khawali" is considered by many to be the best dining experience in the old city. Another restaurant in the old city, Narcissus Palace, located close to Maktab Anbar, would offer an enlightening experience. Every night, a singer and band play old Arabic music and create an amazing atmosphere in the restaurant. A good idea, when considering these restaurants, is to go for breakfast, and then go sightseeing. The breakfast is very cheap.
 * Relax at a Hooka cafe "Narjelah" Hooka cafes are popular in Damascus and are easy to find. When visiting the old city, you'll get a more cultural or traditional experience. You'll probably find a crowd of tea-drinking, backgammon-playing men all smoking hooka. In the modern city, most cafes cater to a younger crowd and are a big part of the night life offering a huge variety of flavored tobacco ranging from double apple which is the most common, to cappuccino. In almost every major restaurant, hookas are available, including the restaurants in the old city.

Hammams
Bathing in a hammam, i.e., a Turkish bath, is a great way of both soaking up the atmosphere of Old Damascus and to be rejuvenated after a long day. Two baths that are familiar with Western tourists are Nur-al-Din Bath and Bakri Bath. A visit to either includes towels, soap, scrub, a massage and a tea. The price is typically composed of bath entry, scrub, sauna, massage, and extras such as tea or soap. Nur-al-Din is for men only, Bakri might be able to accommodate women or mixed groups upon prior arrangement. Bakri Bath: for women each day except Friday 10:00-17:00.



Arabic
There are several institutions in Damascus that teach Arabic: Tour Guide : You can get an English speaking guide by emailing : zenab71@aol.com.
 * Language Institute at Damascus University  - The Language Institute fully immerse their students in Arabic; the course materials and all interaction between students and teachers are done in Arabic. Students are placed in beginning, intermediate or advanced courses based on a placement test.
 * Ma'had - This state-run language academy is in the Mezze district of Damascus. It is the cheapest option, although the courses are not as good as those at Damascus University.
 * The British Council - While the classes may be expensive, they are mainly aimed toward diplomats and businessmen.
 * DSA - Damascus Language School for Standard Arabic- The school provides basic courses for beginners and advanced courses also on certain topics as for journalists, physicians, diplomats, engineers, etc. Normal classes have maximum 4 students. Lessons with private teachers are even possible. Twice a year, there are certain courses for students available at half price. Teachers are well experienced in teaching foreigners. Basic courses start every Saturday.
 * Arabesk Studies in Damascus - The institute offers extensive classes in Arabic. Aide with living arrangement provided.
 * TikaTrip - Travels and Studies in Syria - Providing private Arabic tutors as well as professional language teachers and all important services: starting with the pickup service at the airport, arranging accommodation and advices on how to tackle the bureaucratic procedures.

Buy
Damascus offers some of the best shopping in the Middle East. Prices are cheap, and since very few stores depend on tourists for their income, most will leave you alone to browse until you are ready to buy. Small stores are found throughout the old city, although the Souq al-Hamidiyya, located along the Roman straight street, offers the highest density of shops. The souq is a fantastic experience, but be prepared for the crowds.



Budget


The famous vegetarian falafel sandwich, chicken shawarma, and manakeesh, bread filled with zatar, spinach, meat, pizza-style tomato and cheese or other fillings are widely available and cheap. Less common but still widely spread are places which sell foul (boiled fava beans with sauce) and hummus.

A typical Damascene dish is fatteh, made up of soaked bread, chickpeas and yogurt. Delicious and extremely filling, it is excellent on a cold winter's day. Try it with lamb or sheep's tongue, or plain with the typical garnish of a little pickle and nuts.

There is a foul restaurant on Souq Saroujah, the same street as hotel Al-Haramein and one at the bab touma square. Also in this "backpacker district" on Souq Sarouja is Mr Pizza serving good pizzas, sandwiches, burgers and fries.

Shawarma is, of course, popular in Damascus. It comes in different varieties, including chicken and beef. Station One (near the Noura Supermarket in Abu Rumaneh) is one of many restaurants that serve shawarma throughout the city.

In order to really experience local Syrian cuisine, be sure to visit a section of Damascus called Midan. It lies south of the old city and can easily be reached by walking south from the western entrance to Souq al-Hamadiyya or from Bab Saghir. There is a main street there called Jazmatiya which offers an unlimited amount of shawerma & falafel stands, butcher shops/restaurants and plenty of Syrian pastry shops which are clearly marked by 2.5-metre-high towers of sweets stacked on top of each other. Be sure to try Shawarma from "Anas," which makes some of the best sandwiches in Damascus. This main street is best to visit at night and doesn't close till around 03:00. The street is very safe and is always very busy.

Another unusual treat is a camel kebab, available tasty and fresh from the camel butchers outside Bab Saghir. As they typically advertise their wares by hanging a camel head and neck outside the premises, you're unlikely to miss them.

Fresh juice stalls are available all over the city. Orange juice (aasir beerdan) and other fruits are available. Many fruit stalls also have a range of dishes like hot dog, sojouq (Armenian sausage), liver (soda) and meat (kebab etc.). These may not always be the safest to eat.

Fruits and vegetables which are not peeled might cause infections, but are still very good. Select places that have a steady stream of customers.

The area around Martyr's square is polluted with pastry shops selling sweet, tasty and cheap baklava.

Do not try to eat in empty places, only crowded restaurants and food places are safe otherwise you may get food poisoning from Shawerma sandwiches or any other product (especially in summer) so beware!



Mid-range

 * Pizza Pasta, sharia medhat pasha, at the turn to Bab Kisan. This place serves descent pasta and good pizza, and also antipasto and alcohol. The service is often less than good, but it's worth for the food. No menu, just ask for whatever Italian dish you fancy and chances are they will have it.
 * Nadil, a little closer to bab sharqi than pizza pasta, this place serves typical Arabic meat dishes and very good broasted, and does it well and cheaply. Takeaway.
 * Beit Sitti, close to Beit Jabri in the old city (the street that runs parallel to the street of Al-Noufara down from the Ommayad mosque). Diverse range of food. Superb lemon and mint juice and it’s OK just to drink.
 * Inhouse Coffee, at the airport, in the bab touma shopping street on the way to Sahet Abbasin and in the shopping street of abu romanih (souq al-kheir, close to Benetton shopping centre). Has great coffee. Heavy with smart looking people and bluetooth in the air (in Syria, it’s an acceptable way to flirt).
 * Cafe Vienna, close to cham palace, follow the street towards Jisr-al-rais, turn right in the alley opposite of the Adidas store. Offer sandwiches on brown bread and apple strudel.
 * Vino Rosso, in bab touma walk up the stairs beside the police station and ask your way. You can have food fried at the table and they have French cheeses. Rather cheap, very cosy. Alcohol is served.
 * Chinese Restaurant, opposite of Cafe Narcissius close to Beit Jabri. Small restaurant serving Americanized Chinese food. Reasonably priced and good Chinese food, usually full of foreigners or Chinese students. The sweet and sour chicken and beef "hot pan" are highly recommended. Alcohol is served.
 * Fish place, bourj el-roos. This place is more or less male only, a little rough and does very good fish. Not cheap, but it’s Damascus, it’s fish and it’s good. The same place runs a good place for foul and hommous next by. Alcohol is served.
 * Spicy, at the abu-roumanih side of jisr al-abiad, first street to the left if your back is faced to the bridge. Daily dishes, "home-made" style Arabic food. Excellent. No alcohol.
 * Caffe Latte, a small, warmhearted cafe serving great coffee, muffins and pancakes. An escape from the hustle and bustle of Damascus. Located near the Italian hospital.
 * Spicy, at the abu-roumanih side of jisr al-abiad, first street to the left if your back is faced to the bridge. Daily dishes, "home-made" style Arabic food. Excellent. No alcohol.
 * Caffe Latte, a small, warmhearted cafe serving great coffee, muffins and pancakes. An escape from the hustle and bustle of Damascus. Located near the Italian hospital.

Splurge

 * Scoozi. It’s close to Noura Supermarket in Abu Rumanneh, if you walk from jisr al-rais towards jebel qasioun it is on your right. Best pizza in Damascus, the rest of the dishes are excellent too. No alcohol.
 * Haretna (bab touma area, take the stairs beside the police station and follow the sign) serves excellent mezze. No alcohol during Ramadan.
 * Nadi al Sharq, close to hotel Four seasons, this is the best Indian in Damascus. They do an excellent set meal
 * Rotana Cafe, a theme cafe built at the end of Damascus Boulevard by the Four Seasons. It is part of the Rotana Audio Visuals company which is probably the most famous music records company in the Arabic world. The head of Rotana is Prince Walid bin Talal. The food is good, as well as the hookah The view from this cafe is great, Mount Kassyoun is visible and the rest of Beirut Street. There is also a souvenir shop and a music store located on the first level.
 * Cafe Trattoria is right by the United Colors of Benneton in Abu Rummaneh. It is a beautiful pavement cafe that offers Italian food, hookas, and western coffees, as well as the traditional Turkish Coffee.

Drink
The coffee houses of Old Damascus were something to experience. Hours could dissolve over a cup of shay (tea) or ahwa (coffee) among the smoke of a nargileh (water pipe). An-Naufara (which means 'The Fountain') was a wonderful place to do this, just east of the Umayyad Mosque. There was even a Hakawati (a traditional story teller) present at 19:00 most nights.

If you were craving a European coffee, you could have headed for Abu Rommeneh street and looked for the Bennetton clothing store. There were a number of fancy cafés in the area, including the Middle Eastern chain Inhouse Coffee, which is similar to Starbucks in its prices and atmosphere. Free Wi-Fi was offered at each location throughout the city.

Apart from that, many bars and nightclubs had been set up in Damascus. These were usually busy at night time, but they still provided nice alcoholic beverages and dances.

Clubs in Damascus that weren't all prostitutes (around Bab Sharqi): La Serai, La Vida Loca.

Many establishments have closed because of the war; as of mid-2016 there have been reports of businesses gradually returning to the Old City or Old Quarter of Damascus.

Old Town establishments which have reopened include:



Sleep


Souq-Al-Saroujah is where you find the cluster of backpacker hotels. Martyr's Square or "Merjeh" in Arabic is the other place worth considering if you're on a tight budget, though many of the places double as brothels. However, at least the hotels below can be recommended. Women alone should avoid hotels at Merjeh Square, because it's the red light district of Damascus.

Most hotels in Damascus claiming to be 5 stars are actually closer to what Western travellers know as 2 stars. The Syrian government runs its own accreditation agency that gives highly suspect inflated ratings to hotels owned by Syrian chains and those that have paid "baksheesh" (bribes) to the authorities. Due to the American sanctions of Syria, credit cards linked to US banks will not be accepted (this is pretty much every credit card in the world).

Mid-range




Stay safe
See the Syria article for information on the security situation.

In rural and modern areas of Damascus, people have been known to be perfectly healthy, but to imitate beggars in order to get money. Often, they will attempt to con you by giving more money and have many tricks to do so. Exercise caution.

Also, for your safety, do not take advice or recommendations, especially about accommodation, doctors and dentists, from taxi drivers.

Damascus itself has not been an active war zone for several years now. Nonetheless, the political by-products of the war continue to negatively impact travellers. In particular, checkpoints are everywhere in the city and its environs, staffed by underpaid and notoriously corrupt soldiers and policemen. Especially if you are not Arab, Russian, or Iranian, you can expect to be repeatedly shaken down for bribes (ranging from food and cigarettes to cash). Do not get in these people's bad books under any circumstances; Syria is not a country where the rule of law applies. Nonetheless, Damascus is physically safe for tourists who are respectful and willing to "pay to play". Travelling with a guide at all times is strongly recommended, if only to make such interactions less stressful.

Connect
Most hotels can arrange international phone calls, but prices are very expensive. Most internet cafes are set up for VOIP, and offer a much cheaper alternative, although the price does reflect the quality of the connection.

Internet access is widely available, although the Syrian government censors traffic, which can cause some interesting quirks in connectivity.

Cope
Very few large banks will cash American Express Traveller Cheques in Damascus and elsewhere in Syria. ATMs and credit cards are not a reliable option.

ATMs are not always in operation. Change houses exist in many areas in Damascus, especially near the large souks. The euro, British pound, and American dollar can be changed at these shops, usually commission-free. Be sure to look up the current exchange rate before changing money so you do not get cheated. Many shops, especially in the old city), also change money. Though it is illegal, it is a handy option when you're already shopping in the old city and need to change some cash quickly. Just ask around the shopkeepers for a money changer and you will soon be directed to a store that does currency exchange.

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