Dakar

Dakar is the capital and largest city of Senegal and is often regarded as the cultural and commercial center of French-speaking West Africa. The metropolitan area is home to about 3.3 million people. Dakar is often the first stop in exploring French-speaking West Africa because it has good flight connections with Western Europe, whereas the other main French-speaking West African city, Abidjan, does not.

Understand
Dakar lies on the end of the Cap Verte peninsula, which is the westernmost point of the African mainland.

The Senegalese are very proud of their reputation for "teranga", or hospitality. Locals are extremely friendly and helpful, but as you would anywhere else, watch out for scams and pickpockets. Petty crime here is relatively high, so be cautious.

History
The peninsula was settled by the Lebou people, closely related to the Wolof people, when the Portuguese first reached it in 1444. The original villages: Ouakam, Ngor, Yoff and Hann, still constitute distinctively Lebou neighbourhoods of the city today. The Portuguese were repulsed by the locals at first (the first Portuguese ships were slave-raiders), but peaceful contact was made in 1456. The bay was an important stop for the Portuguese India armadas of the early 15th century and Portuguese armadas en route to Brazil. It is believed that during a stop here in 1501, when an armada returning from India and one heading to Brazil met, an explorer with the latter (Amerigo Vespucci) compared notes with explorers returning from East Asia and realized that Asia & the New World couldn't be the same continent; it was a letter published upon his return that is heralded as the first postulation of America as a separate continent.

The Portuguese established a settlement on the island of Gorée in the early 16th century and, on the mainland, the Lebou established the town of Ndakaaru to service the needs of the Portuguese. It would be captured by the Dutch in 1588 and switch hands several times between them until the British captured the island in 1664 and the French gained control in 1677. The settlement would mostly support the slave trade. The infamous House of Slaves was completed in 1796.

In 1795, the Lebou revolted against Cayor rule and established the Lebou Republic with Ndakaaru as its capital. In 1857, the French established a military post on the peninsula and annexed the Lebou Republic. With slavery outlawed, the French supported peanut cultivation. Gorée island proved ineffective as a port, and so with the booming peanut trade, the French supported the growth of Dakar and its port. Dakar replaced Saint-Louis as the capital of French West Africa in 1902. During this heyday, the city was one of the most important cities in the French empire (comparable to Beirut or Hanoi).

In 1959, Dakar became the capital of the Mali Federation and, upon its breakup, became the capital of Senegal in 1960. The city maintains strong ties to France, boasts a large French expatriate population, and hosts offices for many French businesses involved in West Africa.

Climate
Dakar is warm and humid year-round with a rainy season that lasts from July–October. Temperatures are warm, but moderated by cool sea-breezes and not as hot as inland cities in the region (like Bamako or Ouagadougou). The warmest months are Jul–Oct with highs of 30 to 31°C (86 to 87°F) and lows of 24.5°C (76°F). Jan–Mar are the coolest months, with highs around 25°C (77°F) and lows around 17 to 18°C (63°F).

Average yearly rainfall is 495 mm (19.5 in), of which just 19 mm (0.75 in) falls outside the rainy season! During the rainy season, roads around the city can turn into rushing rivers and without proper sewers in some parts of the city, standing water is contaminated and not safe to walk through.

By plane

 * From Europe: Amsterdam (TUI), Barcelona (Air Senegal and Vueling), Brussels (Brussels Airlines); Geneva (Air Senegal), Lisbon (TAP Air Portugal); London-Stansted (Air Senegal), Madrid (Iberia); Marseille (Air Senegal), Milan (Neos); Nantes (Transavia), Paris-Charles de Gaulle (Air France and Air Senegal); and Istanbul (Turkish Airlines)
 * From North America: New York City-JFK (Delta Air Lines)
 * From Asia: Dubai (Emirates)
 * From Asia: Dubai (Emirates)


 * From West Africa (some airlines fly multi-city routes and therefore direct flights are only available in one direction to or from Dakar and the listed city): Abidjan (Air Côte d'Ivoire, Air Senegal, ASKY Airlines, Kenya Airways, Mauritania Airlines); Abuja (Air Senegal); Accra (Air Senegal, and Arik Air); Bamako (Air Burkina, Air Cote d'Ivoire, Air Mali, Air Senegal, Ethiopian Airlines, Kenya Airways, Mauritania Airlines); Banjul (Air Senegal, Arik Air, Brussels Airlines, Guinea Airlines, Transair); Bissau (Air Senegal, ASKY Airlines, Transair); Conakry (Air Cote d'Ivoire and Air Senegal, Brussels Airlines, Guinea Airlines, Mauritania Airlines, Transair, Tunisair); Cotonou (Air Senegal and CEIBA International); Freetown (Air Senegal, Mauritania Airlines, Transair); Lagos (Air Senegal, Arik Air); Lome (ASKY Airlines, Ethiopian Airlines); Niamey (Air Senegal); Nouakchott (Air Senegal and Mauritania Airlines); and Ouagadougou (Air Burkina and Air Senegal).


 * From North Africa: Algiers (Air Algerie); Casablanca (Air Senegal and Royal Air Maroc); Tunis (Tunisair)
 * From Eastern Africa: Addis Ababa (Ethiopian Airlines, via Lome); Nairobi (Kenya Airways, via Abidjan and Bamako)
 * From Central Africa: Douala (Air Senegal); Libreville (Air Senegal), Malabo (CEIBA International)
 * From Cape Verde & Canary Islands: Gran Canaria (Binter Canarias); Praia (Air Senegal, ASKY Airlines, Transair); Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines), Tenerife-North (Vueling)
 * National carrier Air Senegal operates domestic flights from Dakar to Cap Skirring & Ziguinchor in the western part of Casamance. Regional airline, Transair, operates to Cap Skirring, Kolda and Ziguinchor.

Taxi rides from the airport to the centre of Dakar are around CFA20,000, negotiated with taxi drivers. Insist on using the toll motorway (autoroute à payage), you will be expected to pay the toll, as it will save a lot of time during the day, and the local roads are unsafe at night.

There is probably a bus to Gare Routière de les Beax Mariniers.

Be prepared to refuse touts and taxi drivers. See Stay safe for details.



By rail


Dakar is the western terminus of the Dakar–Niger Railway, built by French colonialists in the early 20th century. The line connects Dakar with Bamako in Mali and was for a long time very popular with travelers. Unfortunately, large sections of the railway has fallen into disrepair and there has been no long-distance trains since 2010.

While there are no long-distance trains running as of 2022, there have been investments in a new modern regional service. The Train Express Régional (TER) now connects the central railway station with Dakar's eastern districts, ending in the nearby city of Diamniadio. The next phase will see the line extended to connect with the international airport and with Thies, to the east.



By road
The main method of travel around the country is by sept-places (French for "seven seats"), questionable station wagons in which they will pack seven people so that you are basically sitting on the next person's lap throughout the journey. You can also come with a group and rent out an entire sept place, but this will be expensive. If you are obviously a tourist, they WILL try to rip you off, so make sure to set a price before you agree to a driver. There are set prices to often-travelled locations. Watch out for pickpockets!

All minicar and sept-place arrivals and departures have moved to Dakar's new Gare Routiere Beaux Maraicheres, which is in Pikine on the outskirts of Dakar. To get to the city centre you will have to take a taxi for between 4,000 and 6,000 CFA. There may also be Dakar Dem Dikk busses passing by (possibly number 218). DDD bus number 15 passes near-ish going to Place de l'Independance.

By ferry


A state-owned ferry runs between Dakar and Ziguinchor in Senegal's Casamance region (below The Gambia). The Joola, one of the former ferries on this route, capsized in a storm while overloaded in 2002, regarded as the second deadliest maritime disaster in recent history. 1,800-1,900 people are believe to have died while only 64 survived (the ship was built to carry 580 people!) and the disaster remains on the minds of many Senegalese. The Aline Sitoé Diatta, built in 2008, is the current ferry. Changes have been made to ensure a disaster such as the Joola never happens again, so passengers shouldn't feel too worried.

The ferry runs overnight and takes around 16 hours in each direction. A seat costs CFA15,000. Cabins are available with 2-8 beds, but are more expensive (around €100) and are fully booked in advance, especially during tourist season. Departures from Dakar are Tuesdays & Fridays. Departures from Ziguinchor are Thursdays and Sundays (arriving in Dakar on Fridays & Mondays, respectively).



By bus
The Dakar bus system, known as Dakar Demm Dikk (Dakar coming and going), is fairly dependable. Fares are CFA150 and there are no free transfers permissible with each ticket. There's not much in the way of a map of the bus system, so you'll have to figure it out on your own. The number 10 bus runs along the Corniche de l'Ouest and turns into the suburbs at Rue Aime Cesaire. The number 1 bus runs along the VDN.

Cars Rapides. These are the usually blue, yellow or white mini-buses that careen through Dakar and some of Senegal's other cities. There are somewhat fixed rates for certain distances, but you need to check with a Senegalese beforehand. As of 2011 CFA150 would cover most destinations. To find out where one is going, flag it down and shout out your destination at the apprenti, the boy in charge of collecting fares who hangs out the back. If she shouts back at you the destination you want, signal it to stop and hop aboard. To stop, bang loudly on the side of the bus, on the roof or signal to the apprenti you want off. Apprentis don't always speak French, so be prepared to communicate otherwise if you do not speak Wolof. Be careful about asking for your destination, as the apprenti will often tell you it is going there just to get you on the bus, no matter its actual destination. If possible, ask where it is going rather than if it is going to your destination.

By taxi
Cheap and safe and everywhere. Just don't mind the broken windshields. All taxi fares are negotiated beforehand and will require bargaining. If you're not from Senegal, you will probably have an outrageous price proposed, so check with locals before to get an idea of what they pay, in order to know what you will be able to get. Even if you have negotiated a price, once you arrive your taxi driver will pretend he has no change on him, even if he had assured you he had.

Ride-hailing apps Heetch and Yango are available.

By rail
The first section of Dakar Train Express Régional (TER), between the central railway station in the city centre and Diamniadio in the eastern suburbs, opened in December 2021. While the service is mainly aimed at commuters, it can be useful for tourist to reach destinations in the eastern parts of the city. Over the next few years the TER network will be extended to reach the international airport among other destinations.

See




Do



 * Dakar has a vibrant music scene and is very popular with young people. Check out the incredibly rich and variant styles. Places like Club Thiossane, Just 4 U are a must for World Music fans.

Buy

 * Islam Couture/ Embroidery Dakar has some amazing (and amazingly expensive) stores specialised in haute-couture, embroidered traditional west African Muslim clothes.
 * Marche HLM A smaller market geared primarily towards fabric vendors, Marche HLM is slightly less hectic than Sandaga. Huge selection of fabric to buy and then get tailored into perfectly fitting traditional Senegalese wear (if you will be in Dakar for awhile, ask a Senegalese person who his or her tailor is, and go there. A little less convenient for those who will only be staying a week). Most vendors won't sell less than 3 to 6 metres of fabric. A reasonable price is CFA1,000 per metre.
 * Marche HLM A smaller market geared primarily towards fabric vendors, Marche HLM is slightly less hectic than Sandaga. Huge selection of fabric to buy and then get tailored into perfectly fitting traditional Senegalese wear (if you will be in Dakar for awhile, ask a Senegalese person who his or her tailor is, and go there. A little less convenient for those who will only be staying a week). Most vendors won't sell less than 3 to 6 metres of fabric. A reasonable price is CFA1,000 per metre.

Eat


Peanuts: The roasted peanuts you can buy on the street or get with your order of beer in any bar are delicious. These nuts are not greasy and have just the right amount of salt, and sometimes are still slightly warm from being roasted.

Budget
All these are in the city centre:



Drink
Gazelle is the local favourite beer - it comes in serious bottles, or Flag, which is stronger and more expensive.



Sleep
There is a wide selection of hotels, from the basic to the best 4 star chains. Many first time visitors stay at the expensive Meridien. There are, however, some good and reasonably priced places to stay.

Mid-range

 * Al Afifa Hotel, (city centre), Clean air-con rooms. Wi-Fi works most of the time and is free. Small outdoor pool, the main restaurant/bar alongside it. Food is good and the breakfast excellent with fresh croissants. Ask a waiter to prepare a mango or other fruit at the buffet. Expect to pay around CFA45,000 for a single room plus CFA3,600 for a breakfast. This hotel also has an "American bar" and a nightclub attached. Walking distance to the main attractions in Dakar and the best restaurants such as Café de Rome and Chez Loutcha.

Stay safe
Petty crime in Dakar is relatively high; crime against tourists is common, even around Place de l'Indépendance. Use common sense: women should not walk around alone after dark. Watch your pockets in crowded places, such as Sandaga, and keep a close eye on your belongings. There are many different scams to get money from tourists, so be wary. The favourites such as "I work at your hotel and have run out of fuel, please can I borrow €10", etc. are common, so don't be fooled.

Crime around the airport is extremely high. Do not change money at the airport. Con artists wait inside the arrival terminal by the baggage carousel. They inform you that they work for the airport and that they do not need any money from you. They snatch your bags out your hands, and lead you to a restaurant where you are told the kitchen is closed. They will all sit around you and demand money before they let you or your bags go. Some may offer to take you to "an affordable hotel" such as Hotel Tahiti. They then lock themselves in the room with you and demand money. They do not settle for anything less than USD10-25. They do not care if you have enough money for food or to get back to the airport. They will threaten you. Be warned.

Avoid the beaches at night. Try not to wear any outwardly expensive items of clothing or jewellery. In generally the Senegalese are not violent. Some people turn to stealing so that they can drink and eat. Overall, though, the Senegalese are an incredibly friendly and hospitable people and you will meet many people who are interested in talking to you.

Senegal is one of the most politically stable countries in Africa. The police force is useless for your safety, although they all speak French, and hence are helpful with directions when asked.

You should avoid walking in the evenings and nights along the Corniche, particularly the stretch between the International School of Dakar and the Club Olympique.

Cope
There are many beggars in Dakar, and so this can be an uncomfortable situation. One way to handle it is with a simple, polite "ba BEN-een yohn" ("next time" in Wolof). They may be persistent, but be firm without being rude. Another option is to give the talibes food. Also, keep in mind the Islamic tradition of giving daily after you've given once, you can say, "sah-RAHK-sah AH-gah-nah," which means "charity has already been done."

Embassies and consulates

 * 🇨🇦 Canada
 * 🇪🇬 Egypt
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇷🇴 Romania
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇺🇸 United States

BBC World Service radio broadcasts in English and French in Dakar on 105.6 MHz.

Go next
Travelling outside of Dakar can be manic and harrowing but is definitely worth it.


 * Saint-Louis &mdash; The old French capital of Senegal, it is on the northern border, near Mauritania, and has fantastic colonial architecture and nightlife. Popular destination for travellers. Many bird parks are in this area.
 * Sine Saloum Delta &mdash; Just north of the border with Gambia, the Delta has amazing mangrove forests that you can tour by pirogue (a motored canoe). Negotiate a fair price with a guide, and remember that once you get into the Delta, it's difficult and expensive to get around any way besides by pirogue.
 * Casamance &mdash; The southernmost region of Senegal, the Casamance, boasts some of the most spectacular beaches and friendliest people in the country. The capital is Ziguinchor, nice to visit but not much to do. Cap Skirring is the main tourist destination, and there are many hostels as well as a Club Med ("Club Merde" as the locals call it). The Casamance has been involved in a secessionist conflict for years; though the warring factions do not purposely attack tourists, there have been tourist deaths. The overnight ferry from Dakar to Ziguinchor is affordable and comfortable.
 * Details on the ferry: The boat leaves from Dakar on Tuesdays and Fridays at 20:00 and from Zig on Thursdays and Sundays at 15:00, arriving 15–17 hours later. Office hours in Dakar are M-F, business hours with a break for lunch. To purchase tickets, you must go to either the port in Dakar or the one in Zig. You cannot buy tickets online, or over the phone. Bring your passport to purchase. Advance purchase is advised, if possible, but not always necessary. Price for a couchette in a two person room is CFA30,500 and for a four person room is CFA28,500. Both include private bath and breakfast. Phone # for the Dakar ticket office is +221 33 821 29 00. They will be able to give you information on availability, prices and office hours.
 * Touba &#x2014; Senegal's religious centre, Touba makes a great day trip. Non-Muslims are no longer allowed inside the mosque, which is enormous. Women will be asked to wear long skirts and cover their heads to tour the grounds.
 * Banjul - the capital of The Gambia. There is one daily bus departing at 07:00 from Parcelles Dem Dikk terminus.
 * There are no options to buy the ticket either beforehand or online. Be there at 06:00 to buy a ticket and get a seat. Ticket price is CFA10,000; for one piece of luggage they charge CFA1,000.
 * The trip normally takes 8 hours, but the real time depends on the border and ferry conditions.
 * The buses have air-con, but the seats are narrow.