Dahab

Dahab (دهب) is a town in Egypt, 85 km (53 miles) north of Sharm el-Sheikh on the Gulf of Aqaba, near the southern tip of Sinai. It is a place that many have fallen in love with over the years, and return to time and time again.

Understand


Dahab was once an isolated coastal village inhabited only by the local Bedouin. In 1980, there were fewer than 30 Bedouin families in Dahab. Like the Bedouin inland, they had a self-sustaining lifestyle but in Dahab this was based on fishing as well as traditional goat herds. During the summer, many inland Bedouin came to Dahab for fishing and to collect dates, and to enjoy life by the sea. To this day, favourite presents from Dahab (for the inland Bedouin) are dried fish and dates.

Dahab's isolated location, idyllic setting and laid-back Bedouin hospitality made it a favourite destination for all who stumbled upon it. In the beginning (1970s), this was mainly Israeli soldiers or people from the kibbutz during their leave. During the 1980s it turned into a hippie hangout, and in the 1990s adventure enthusiasts from around the world began to discover Dahab's natural wonders. The combination of Red Sea and Sinai desert make Dahab perfect for world class windsurfing, scuba diving, freediving, rock climbing and of course desert trekking with the Bedouin. Add to this cheap accommodation on or near the beach, inexpensive food and drink and a relaxed atmosphere, and you have a heady enticement for the young and young at heart.

Today's Dahab has evolved into an "alternative resort" - the home of independent and adventurous travellers, but also with some more upmarket resorts and hotels. Most of the latter are in the Laguna area or outlying. For some people, this mix is part of Dahab's charm ("everyone welcome"), others regard the mix up as a problem: Prices in Assalah are artificially increased which makes it less and less interesting for backpackers, though some locally-run camps still keep affordable. In contrast to that, many package tourists and families won't feel comfortable with the lacking conveniences and the all-handmade-look among the hippies. Note the grotesque, forever unfinished concrete structures as a sign of this mismanagement.

Still, for everyone with an open mind, Dahab is definitely worth a visit and a place to fall in love with. Particularly in the old part of Dahab (Masbat and Mashraba), you will rarely find a visitor who comes only once to Dahab. To many people this has become a second home.

Climate

 * See also: Egypt

The climate is sunny and very dry with almost no rainfall. Summers are very hot at days and warm at nights, but winters are warm with mild nights.

By bus



 * Buses no longer run to and from St Catherine.


 * From Cairo – Six daily Go Buses, taking 9 hr from Cairo's Turgoman station (central), Abbasseya station (30 min from centre) and Heliopolis (near airport). Buses may not serve all stations. Best to buy tickets in advance, especially for the night buses.


 * From Sharm el Sheikh town – The bus operator is East Delta. Their published timetable is only a statement of good intentions: services have been pruned back, and this is likely to get worse during 2020. But insha'allah, they may run from Sharm to Dahab at 6AM, 7AM, 8AM, 9AM, 2:30PM, 5PM, 8:30PM; and from Dahab to Sharm at 8AM, 9AM, 10AM, 11:30AM, 12:30PM, 3PM, 4PM, 5:30PM, 7:30PM, 8:30PM, 9:30PM and 10PM. The bus takes just under 2 hr.


 * From Sharm el Sheikh airport – Your first problem is to get to Sharm bus station 17 km away, see Sharm el Sheikh "Get in" for taxi tips. The bus service is erratic, so if you are arriving in the evening your best plan is to pre-arrange a taxi all the way to Dahab, see below. If you do get the bus, notice it stops at wayside halts to pick up waifs and strays, and at a checkpoint and filling station only 5 km from the airport: but will it pick up or drop off anywhere nearer the airport? No chance, they have probably had the frighteners put on them by the taxi cartel.


 * From the north – This is even more erratic, with maybe one bus or none at all from Taba through Taba Heights and Nuweiba, continuing from Dahab to Sharm. East Delta may not be able to say until shortly before departure whether one is running today.

By taxi
Always arrange this in advance through your accommodation! They should be able to negotiate something near the local price, about half what you would achieve by haggling yourself.

From Sharm el-Sheikh town or airport a fair price to Dahab would be LE600 (€40) for the whole cab. The airport cartel charges LE1,000, and while for trips within Sharm you can stomp out of the airport and try for a street taxi, that is less likely to work for an out-of-town trip.

From Taba a taxi all the way to Dahab might be LE1,500.

By boat
See Nuweiba for details of the ferries from Aqaba in Jordan. These also ply to Taba Heights further up the coast; this route is faster but you need to arrive in Egypt via Nuweiba if you are travelling beyond Sinai and therefore need an Egyptian visa.

Reaching the ferry port from Dahab is by bus or taxi. Usually a bus leaves Sharm at 8:30AM calling at Dahab at 10:30AM on the way north to Taba. So if you phone around 9AM, there should be word on whether it is running today, whereupon you either head for the bus station or negotiate a taxi.

Orientation
Dahab has 3 distinct parts:


 * 1) At the centre is Masbat Bay – Almost evenly divided by a floodway (the funny bridge over dry sand - except during a rare but impressive flash flood). The tourist area of Masbat effectively stretches north to Eel Garden (or Meleil as the Bedouin call it), and South through Mashraba. A corniche runs along this entire stretch of beach. This can be considered central Dahab, and you will find everything you need here.
 * 2) A short taxi ride south is the Laguna (El Goze) – This is where the Corniche ends in the south. Here you find Dahab's first resort hotels (Hilton, etc.) You also find all municipal services: bus station, hospital, city council, etc.
 * 3) Assalah – The residential area, mainly Bedouin but also with some foreign expats and Egyptians now also living amongst the Bedouin.
 * Plus outlying hotels – Stretching north towards the Blue Hole, and South to Wadi Gnai, there are around 15 outlying resort hotels - mainly booked as package holidays.
 * Plus Protected Areas – Dahab is bordered by 2 protected areas: in the south, Nabq Protected Area starts at Wadi Gnai, as in the North Ras Abu Galum Protected Area starts at the Blue Hole. 52% of the Gulf of Aqaba coastline is protected area, which is very important for managing growth and for preserving the reef and eco system. No building is allowed in protected areas, except traditional Bedouin structures.

By taxi
A taxi within the centre should not exceed LE30, and LE40-60 for further out including the bus station, as of Aug 2021. Expect them to try to charge you twice that.

On foot
Getting around Dahab on foot is quite simple, the promenade runs right along the seafront and all the usual amenities are located along it.

By bicycle
Bicycles are a convenient way to get around Dahab and to get to surrounding sites such as Blue Hole and Three Pools. There is little traffic, and bikes are common so cars take them somewhat into account (as compared to anywhere else in Egypt). There are dedicated bicycle rental stores, but accommodation such as hotels may also have some available. One is located next to Peace Bridge, which quotes LE100 for one day.

For some parts (such as the last part to the Blue Hole), an off-road bike is preferred. On the other hand, most rental places already seem to be mostly offering mountain bikes.

See

 * Very tall palm trees – Straight and stiff-leaved: how many can you spot? Yes, they are mobile telephone masts.
 * Very tall palm trees – Straight and stiff-leaved: how many can you spot? Yes, they are mobile telephone masts.


 * St. Catherine monastery and Mount Sinai are accessible as of 2023 but the previous public busses seem to no longer run and thus your options are to book a taxi or an organized tour ($25 everywhere in Dahab).

Offshore
Dahab's main offshore attractions are described here, north to south (the usual direction of current), as there are various ways to enjoy them. Dive shacks and other shore facilities are listed under "Do". The coral is very close to shore so you just walk in, but only at selected access points to limit the damage to coral and to you. Boats are only used for outlying sites with no access track. The tidal range in Dahab is at most a metre so all depths cited have that degree of flex.


 * Rick's Reef is often combined with the Canyon by a gentle drift.
 * Rick's Reef is often combined with the Canyon by a gentle drift.
 * Rick's Reef is often combined with the Canyon by a gentle drift.
 * Rick's Reef is often combined with the Canyon by a gentle drift.
 * Rick's Reef is often combined with the Canyon by a gentle drift.


 * Abu Telha and Abu Helal are at the north edge of Dahab, with a smaller canyon. The road is paved this far.
 * The spit off the spit south end of the promenade is exposed to wind and currents, so people windsurf here but divers and snorkellers seldom come.
 * Gabr el Bint further south has no road access so you get here by boat.
 * The spit off the spit south end of the promenade is exposed to wind and currents, so people windsurf here but divers and snorkellers seldom come.
 * Gabr el Bint further south has no road access so you get here by boat.
 * The spit off the spit south end of the promenade is exposed to wind and currents, so people windsurf here but divers and snorkellers seldom come.
 * Gabr el Bint further south has no road access so you get here by boat.
 * Gabr el Bint further south has no road access so you get here by boat.

Do

 * Kayaking – Sea kayaks are available for hire. From LE50/hr, or try a guided night kayak&mdash;great for hot summer nights.
 * Yoga, Reiki, and Chi Gong – As of 2020 no-one is advertising classes, probably the thing to do is link up informally with others.
 * Learn Arabic – and see Egypt. But make a start before coming here so that you can confidently exchange greetings and salutations. It's Egyptian Arabic you will use, do not bother with MSA which only newsreaders and government officials declaim.
 * Do nothing – Just chill, that is the most traditional activity in Dahab. Watch the rippling sea and the changing pattern of light over the mountains.
 * Learn Arabic – and see Egypt. But make a start before coming here so that you can confidently exchange greetings and salutations. It's Egyptian Arabic you will use, do not bother with MSA which only newsreaders and government officials declaim.
 * Do nothing – Just chill, that is the most traditional activity in Dahab. Watch the rippling sea and the changing pattern of light over the mountains.

Diving and freediving
There are dozens of diving and freediving centres in Dahab, but some are not properly licensed by the Ministry of Tourism (subject to annual inspections and fees). Before you book, check the CDWS web site to make sure you avoid blacklisted centres:


 * Deep Blue Divers , +20 121134668,  is a fully-equipped, 5-Star Gold Palm Padi resort close to the reef. Small dive groups with highly qualified instructors and divemasters to enjoy a full range of Padi courses and guided dives at affordable prices.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Deep Blue Divers , +20 121134668,  is a fully-equipped, 5-Star Gold Palm Padi resort close to the reef. Small dive groups with highly qualified instructors and divemasters to enjoy a full range of Padi courses and guided dives at affordable prices.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Deep Blue Divers , +20 121134668,  is a fully-equipped, 5-Star Gold Palm Padi resort close to the reef. Small dive groups with highly qualified instructors and divemasters to enjoy a full range of Padi courses and guided dives at affordable prices.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.
 * Poseidon Divers. Get into technical diving or simply do fun dive or courses in a safe and professional way. It is the only PADI Career Development Centre in town, and is a PSA and TDI Instructor facility (the only one in Egypt). You will get no shortage of divers if you do your PADI DiveMaster or Instructor course here which is a definite plus for the quality of your course.

Desert excursions and trekking
Lots of agencies along the beach front are touting excursions. But the hotel and dive resorts also organise these, and have a stronger incentive to make sure their customers are happy. Trekking might involve hiking, horse-riding, camels, or various off-road vehicles.


 * Day trips might be to Wadi Qnai and Ein Khudra. These places can feel touristy and crowded but in the 2020 travel slump that is unlikely to be a problem.
 * Overnight is when you really get the desert experience. The canyons fall silent, stars blaze in a clear sky, the coffee-pot stews by the camp fire, and you sure wish you would brought an extra pullover and toilet roll.
 * Longer trips are grandly called a "safari", which of course is the Arabic word for a journey. The traditional destination was inland towards Mount Sinai, but this remains compromised by the terrorist threat. Tours also venture as far as Petra in Jordan, Jerusalem in Israel, and Cairo and Luxor in Egypt: they are all top-rank destinations well worth seeing, but deserve a trip in their own right. These safaris may involve a flight from Sharm but more often a very long bus ride, where the rest hours of the driver (and of the oncoming drivers) may be a concern. You may also need an Egyptian visa, which you do not for the Dahab area: the safari agencies can arrange this quickly.

Rock climbing
The Sinai Desert has excellent rock climbing in the granite mountains and wadis. October–April only (i.e. not the hot summer months). The main area near to Dahab is Wadi Qnai:


 * Vast amounts of perfect bouldering on granite boulders in shaded, sand-floored valleys
 * Single and multi-pitch equipped sport routes for all levels of climbers in Waterfalls, Camel Canyon and Wadi Connection
 * Top roping area especially for beginners and children in Middle Qnai
 * Plus new routing possibilities for sport climbs in many easily accessible areas.

Desert Divers have led the way in developing rock climbing in the Sinai. They can arrange for permits to Wadi Qnai, equipment hire, drivers, guides and anything else you might need. They have published the Sinai Rock Climbing Guide complete with topos and route descriptions. Their instructors are happy to share/offer advice to experienced climbers who can 'self-guide', or they can help you improve your climbing with beginner and Advanced technique courses.

St. Catherine also has incredible tradclimbing and bouldering. Base yourself in the village at Fox Camp or Sheikh Mousa Bedouin Camp with easy access (5 min to 2 hours) to more than 60 routes. All long multipitch (7+ pitch), but wide range of grades. If you are a group, it is great fun to head deep into the desert by camel where you will find unclimbed lines almost everywhere you look! Absolutely no bolting allowed in St Catherine, and please respect the holy mountains of Mt Sinai and St Katherine by walking the traditional pilgrimage paths rather than climbing.

Buy
Great buys are the usual Egyptian suspects: water pipes, rugs, oriental lamps, shirts in different lengths with embroidery, backgammon games, silver jewellery, etc. Prices are geared for tourists, so haggling is a must, pay max. 50-60% of the first price offered, anything else is a rip-off. If you are not sure about the price, go to the next shop, they all offer more or less the same things, and start bargaining again there.

Look out for Bedouin handicrafts, some beautiful pieces are available. Hand embroidered and made in Dahab, St Catherines and El Arish by Bedouin women. Sheikh Salem House has a good selection of items as does some of the other Bedouin establishments in Dahab.

It is almost impossible to get rolling tobacco in Dahab, be prepared if you are not keen on factory made ones.





Eat
The trick to eating cheaply in Dahab is to avoid seafront establishments and go a block or two inland, where prices are half for equivalent quality. Lots of budget places in the back lanes serve falafel, koshari, chicken and fish. For fish, the prices shown are usually per kilo not per fish. Try bargaining.
 * Ali Baba Hotel has a good restaurant, see "Sleep".
 * Blue Beach Restaurant within Blue Beach Hotel does local and western-style food.
 * Sea Bride on El Farid St does good sea food but increased their prices sharply at the start of 2020. They're open daily 11AM-11PM.
 * Marine Garden Camp on the Lighthouse strip has basic rooms from LE400 double but is better known as a restaurant.
 * Star of Dahab has good sea food, see "Sleep" listing.
 * Sea Bride on El Farid St does good sea food but increased their prices sharply at the start of 2020. They're open daily 11AM-11PM.
 * Marine Garden Camp on the Lighthouse strip has basic rooms from LE400 double but is better known as a restaurant.
 * Star of Dahab has good sea food, see "Sleep" listing.
 * Star of Dahab has good sea food, see "Sleep" listing.
 * Star of Dahab has good sea food, see "Sleep" listing.
 * Star of Dahab has good sea food, see "Sleep" listing.

Drink
There are several bars on the beach. You can also buy beer, wine and liquor in special shops called Drinkies. One is located at Azzahla market square, another in Mashraba in the small road after Sea Bride fish restaurant.

Some Egyptian alcohol brands mimics the names and labelling of better known liquors elsewhere. Restaurants will often advertise Stella beer, which is not Stella Artois, as well as Sakkara, Luxor and Heineken.


 * Elzar Bar, next to the ruins of the old harbour on the beachfront. The best place in town for anyone wanting to get pissed late at night. Chris the Aussie barman is always on hand until the sun comes up serving a variety of alcoholics including the drunken Welshman and unconfrontational Dave the Canadian nice man.
 * The Furry Cup, at the Blue Beach Hotel, where local Westerners hang out at the sound of U2, Coldplay, etc. The only place in Dahab where you can get Western hard liquor brands instead of the fakes.
 * The Furry Cup, at the Blue Beach Hotel, where local Westerners hang out at the sound of U2, Coldplay, etc. The only place in Dahab where you can get Western hard liquor brands instead of the fakes.

Sleep
Dahab has lots of budget to mid-range accommodation and lacks upmarket places. Prices are low by western standards and even lower once you go 100 m back from the beach strip.

Budget




Mid-range

 * Blue Beach Club is located between Eel Garden and Lighthouse. Clean ensuite, air conditioned rooms at reasonable prices and a fresh water swimming pool are available.
 * Blue Beach Club is located between Eel Garden and Lighthouse. Clean ensuite, air conditioned rooms at reasonable prices and a fresh water swimming pool are available.
 * Blue Beach Club is located between Eel Garden and Lighthouse. Clean ensuite, air conditioned rooms at reasonable prices and a fresh water swimming pool are available.
 * Blue Beach Club is located between Eel Garden and Lighthouse. Clean ensuite, air conditioned rooms at reasonable prices and a fresh water swimming pool are available.
 * Blue Beach Club is located between Eel Garden and Lighthouse. Clean ensuite, air conditioned rooms at reasonable prices and a fresh water swimming pool are available.
 * Blue Beach Club is located between Eel Garden and Lighthouse. Clean ensuite, air conditioned rooms at reasonable prices and a fresh water swimming pool are available.
 * Blue Beach Club is located between Eel Garden and Lighthouse. Clean ensuite, air conditioned rooms at reasonable prices and a fresh water swimming pool are available.

Stay safe
See the warning in the Sinai and Egypt articles for information about the security situation in Dahab.

Women travellers are safe in Dahab, but please be savvy:
 * - Dress: Bikini is fine on the beach and on the promenade around the bridge, topless is not okay. Cover up in town in western casual style - shorts are okay. Of course it is a double standard, so you will observe cetacean expanses of wobbly male flesh as divers wriggle in and out of their kit.
 * - Local men: flirting and even chit-chat are likely to be interpreted very differently here than in the west. Be friendly but don't invite more than you want.

Snorkeling along the reef can be hazardous if the wind gets up. Waves may dash you onto the sharp coral, the current may carry you past your exit point, and in a rising sea you may have difficulty spotting the next safe exit. Other water users have more escape options, eg divers can re-descend to pick out a route inshore.

Drugs, particularly marijuana, are widely available in Dahab but not legal. You would risk large fines and maybe a lengthy stay in one of Egypt's notoriously squalid prisons.

Child beggars: If you signed up for a group activity, like snorkeling along the coast or going for a tour into the desert, you will likely encounter child beggars. They usually are in a group of 5, boys and girls and will try to sell you bracelets. They are very instistive from the beginning and if you look at them, talk to them or buy from them, their style will get even more agressive and pushy and would be somewhat shocking.

Go next

 * Along the coast to the south, Sharm el Sheikh will feel very busy and tourist-trappy after Dahab. Going north, Nuweiba and Taba are little developed.
 * Crossing into Israel, Eilat is a brash building site. Just use it as a base or for its airport, or head swiftly on towards Jerusalem, the Dead Sea, or Jordan. Bear in mind that Israel does not stamp your passport but the Egyptian border post at Taba does, so it will be obvious from the exit stamp that you crossed into Israel.
 * Aqaba in Jordan is more conveniently reached by ferry from Nuweiba. It has great diving and is within an hour's drive of fabulous Petra.
 * Cairo and raffish Alexandria deserve several days to explore.
 * Luxor until 2019 involved travelling via Cairo, but will become more accessible if the Sharm-Hurghada ferry restarts in 2020.
 * Pilgrims to Medina and Mecca can reach them by ferry from Nuweiba (horribly congested for Hajj, quieter for Umrah at other times). Your Saudi Arabian visa needs sorting well in advance.