Da Nang



Da Nang (Đà Nẵng) is Vietnam's fifth largest city. It's in Central Vietnam on the South China Sea coast, midway between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

The city has neither the ambiance of Hanoi nor the hustle-bustle of Ho Chi Minh City, but has its share of sights and is close to the charms of Hoi An and the imperial capital of Hue, making it a popular vacation spot for those looking to explore the attractions of central Vietnam or soak up some sun while hanging out on the city's beaches.

Understand
The regions surrounding Da Nang (My Son, Quang Nam) were founded by the Cham Hindus perhaps 3,000 years ago, serving as the capital city and centre of the Hindu Champa Dynasty. Vietnamese invasions into the region in the 17th century significantly halted Cham development.

Given that Da Nang was the first point of colonial invasion, many vestiges of French architecture are present in the historic buildings. Da Nang was also where American combat troops first landed during the Vietnam War, and there are also many remnants of that era left over in Da Nang. During the war, many monuments and buildings were destroyed. On the way to My Khe Beach, the ruins of a military base remain in the form of helicopter hangars; however, these are now more easily spotted at the airport, which serves both civil and military flights.

Since the early 1990s, the government has been enthusiastically pursuing foreign investment and infrastructure development, and a tourism boom exploded in the mid-2010s with rustic backpacker lodges giving way to highrise hotels. Initially driven by foreign visitors, particularly Koreans, the Vietnamese themselves have also discovered the city and during holiday periods the city gets packed.

Da Nang has some of the best roads in the country. The coast road is at least four lanes from northern provincial boundary to southern provincial boundary. Compared to either Hanoi or HCMC, traffic in Da Nang is always relatively light, although huge trucks blast through every now and again and there are brief rush hours.

Orientation
Orienting yourself in Da Nang is straightforward. Gorgeous My Khe Beach (Bãi biển Mỹ Khê), the "China Beach" of Vietnam War fame, runs along the city's eastern edge and continues nearly 40 km south all the way to Hoi An. Tourism in the area has absolutely exploded since the 2010s and it's fast becoming a solid wall of blingy skyscraper hotels and apartments in the vein of Miami or Gold Coast. To the west of My Khe is the wide Han River (Sông Hàn), crossed by many bridges including the famous Dragon Bridge, and on the other side is the commercial center of the city including the airport. To the north is the lush green Sơn Trà Peninsula (aka Monkey Mountain), much of which is a dedicated nature reserve.

Climate
The hottest months of the year are Jun-Aug, when the temperature can go as high as 40 °C, and it is very humid. There are usually tropical storms from Oct-Nov.

By plane


Getting there and away:
 * Taxis can be found outside the terminal, with reliable companies like Mai Linh, Taxi Xanh and Song Han usually sticking to be meter (around 70,000 dong).
 * If using Grab, head across the taxi lines to the well-marked dedicated pickup point.
 * Regular shuttle buses to and from Hoi An cost 130,000 dong per person. The journey takes about 45 min.

By train


Many taxis are available outside of the station, but it's best to avoid the motorbike taxis as many times they are the same price or more than regular taxi.

By car
Da Nang is in the middle of the country, roughly speaking equidistant from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. It's possible to rent a car and drive yourself, but as Vietnamese traffic in general is chaotic and dangerous, foreign visitors and locals usually rent a car with a driver.

By bus


For public buses to and from Hoi An see Hoi An.

Sleeper and regular buses (depending on the distance) depart from all major destinations in the country to Da Nang, including Quang Binh, Phong Nha, Pleiku, Phan Thiet, and Vung Tau. Booking is possible at the Da Nang Intercity Bus Station, with travel agencies and at your accommodation.

Note, from Hue the trip takes 3 hr with one refreshment stop on the way. But the bus uses the tunnel, so does not go over the spectacular pass between Da Nang and Hue.

Also from Laos: Pakse, Vientiane, Champasak, Savannakhet (around 800,000 dong) (2015).

By taxi
A Grab from and to Hoi An is about 300–400,000 dong (as of April 2024).

According to reports, 300–500,000 dong is the standard rate for going to Hoi An for a regular taxi. You can try to negotiate with a taxi driver at the train station, and agree on a fare of 200,000 dong.

By ride hailing
The average cabbie speaks no English, so Grab is very useful for getting to your destination, it can even translate chat messages both ways. Rates are generally competitive with taxis, although the quality of cars or motorbikes can be a bit of a gamble. It may be worth paying the extra 10% to get a classier "Plus" vehicle.

Motorbike taxis (xe ôm, literally hug-vehicle) are plentiful (get used to hearing "you want moto?" everywhere), cheap, and are generally quite safe. All riders are now required to wear helmets, a rule that is strongly enforced. Make sure the driver supplies you with a helmet. If he doesn't, find another one, as you'll be the one stung for the fine.

Short hops around town shouldn't be more than 20,000 dong, if you go between districts this increases and all the way to the airport around 70,000 dong. Drivers are generally quite friendly and will go slower upon request. They are also not adverse to a bear hug if you are really struggling to hold on to the motorbike. Many of the moto drivers, especially in District 1, speak some English and like many Vietnamese will repay you in a flood of smiles, and probably point out all the sights, if you make a little effort to get to know them.

By taxi
Taxi rates are very reasonable in Da Nang, and scams are less common than in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, but you're better off going with a reputable company to avoid any hassle.



At the airport, Mai Linh taxi wardens wear green shirts with green ties, and Vinasun wardens dark green shirts with maroon ties. These wardens can radio taxis for you. Some travellers have reported that Song Han's yellow taxis are also fairly reliable. The ride sharing app "Grab" is common and can be used to arrange for a taxi or other ride.

By bus
There are 19 local bus lines. Buses are new and all of them are air-conditioned. Ticket price is 6,000 dong per ride. In the DanaBus app (Android, iOS) you can put your starting point and destination. Then the app shows you the right bus line for your ride.

The shown route map and lines at bus stops are outdated. Every bus stop has a sign at the street. The displayed bus stop in the app is around where the actual bus stop is. The local bus service operates until 18:00.

Taxi drivers may park in front of the bus stop and tell you that the bus is not running. This is not true — they are just trying to get your business.

By motorbike
You can rent your own motorbike in many places, especially around the backpacker area (Tran Cao Van) in District Thanh Khe. 110,000 dong should get you a decent 100-110 cc bike. Two main categories of motorbike are available for rent: scooters (automatic transmission); and four-speed motorbikes, the gears of which you change with your left foot. The ubiquitous Honda Super Cub is a common 4-speed bike that has a semi-automatic gearbox, i.e., no clutch, so relatively easy to drive. Other models may be fully manual and therefore you must also operate the clutch using your left hand. This takes a lot of skill and it's all too easy to over-rev and pull a wheelie or stall the engine. If you end up with such a bike then practice releasing the clutch gently before hitting the roads. Rental agents tend to steer foreigners toward scooters if available, on the (plausible) assumption that they don't know how to ride motorbikes that have manual gears. Motorcycles of 175 cc and above are only legal to ride if you make a connection with a Vietnamese motorcycle club.

To Monkey Mountain
Besides riding through the Hai Van Pass the iconic motorcycle ride in Da Nang is to Monkey Mountain. Many will ride up the road by the beach following it to the Intercontinental Resort, then ride along the north side heading west and finally down the mountain to be let out near the Port of Da Nang. It's a ride similar to the 18-km (11-mile) "Tail of the Dragon" in Tennessee and North Carolina except with a steeper grade, more and sharper turns, amazing views of East [Vietnamese] Sea, wild monkeys and no one is checking to see if you're going over the speed limit. Other than the weekends it's common not to see another person for the entire ride leaving the mountain to yourself. If you go just before sunrise, head to the north side and are quiet you might see a red-shanked or gray-shanked douc. There are a few well posted areas that are military facilities and the signs, which are in Vietnamese and English, warning you not to enter or take pictures need to be respected. The road is well maintained but it's not uncommon to encounter a large boulder mostly blocking one's passage. There were a number of possible construction projects scheduled to begin in 2019 which will forever replace some of the views of nature for ones of hotels, condominiums and tour buses. It's recommended not to ride at night.

To Hoi An
Renting a motorbike to travel to Hoi An from Da Nang costs about 80,000-150,000 dong per day from most hotel and rental companies in Da Nang. Locals pay about 50,000-100,000 dong. With a little bargaining and renting for a week or month at a time, you could bring down the price. Haggle and ask if they include roadside service. The distance to Hoi An is approximately 28 km and takes about 45–60 min. The route is fairly simple and straightforward, and takes you along the coastline of Da Nang, allowing you an extraordinary experience and views along the beaches to Hoi An. The traffic is light. once you get outside the city. Make sure you bring along a windbreaker or sweater, during autumn and spring, as the temperature along the coastline can be a little cold. Be cautious riding in winter or rainy season from late September to January, as the wind is strong and rain is frequent. Avoid major roadways at night.

By bicycle
Electric bicycles are now common in Da Nang and offer an excellent alternative to gasoline powered motorbikes. They have more than enough power to drive most of the day throughout the city, can be driven without a driver's license and are easier to drive than their gas-powered cousins. While they won't make it back and forth to Hoi An or around Monkey Mountain they're well suited for city travel. Check with the company that issued you your traveler's insurance to see if you're still covered while driving an e-bike.

See
For years, tourists have bypassed Da Nang on their travel itineraries, preferring to spend their time viewing the ancient imperial court at Hue or walking the streets of the old town in Hoi An. And yet, as those who call it home are aware, Da Nang has plenty of interesting and beautiful sights of its own. Nestled between the Annamite Range and the South China Sea on the banks of the Han River, Da Nang's natural beauty is hard to miss; a trip up into the mountains and down to the beach should be on your to-do list. Culturally, Da Nang once lay at the northernmost reaches of the Kingdom of Champa; the Museum of Cham Sculpture, located in the city centre, should be mandatory if you're planning on visiting the ruins at nearby My Son.


 * (Update 2024: The complete Area is an event park it called "Sunworld" and foreigner has to pay 900.000 VND now. It includes the cable cars (but not all are in use right now), the roaler coaster and another thing. For the rest, the wax museum for example, you have to pay extra. There is no other option to get to this mountain.)











Beaches


Danang is justly famous for its beaches. My Khe Beach &mdash; known as China Beach during the Vietnam War, although the name is rarely if ever used locally &mdash; to the east is the top draw, gently curving nearly 40 km south towards Hoi An. While the beach is uninterrupted, it changes names several times along the way, becoming Non Nước near the Marble Mountains, Hà My beyond that, and finally An Bàng and Cửa Đại at the Hoi An end. To the northwest of the city is another long beach variously known as Nguyễn Tất Thành and Xuân Thiều (Red Beach), running all the way up towards the Hải Vân Pass.



Learn
It is difficult to learn Vietnamese in Da Nang as the expat community is small and the demand for language learning is not great. You will be able to find many people who are willing to do language exchange with you and there are a number of qualified Vietnamese teachers. The rate is about US$5/hour.

The Da Nang dialect of Vietnamese is distinct from the Hanoi and HCMC versions, although closer to HCMC than to Hanoi. If you learned your Vietnamese in Hanoi, many ordinary people in Da Nang will have some difficulty understanding you until they realize you are trying to talk like the presenters they see on TV. Even trained teachers will tend to teach you to speak like a Da Nang person unless you emphasize that you want to learn Hanoi dialect, which is understood {eventually} throughout the country as it is the official version and that used on TV. If you spend a fair amount of time in Da Nang, either employed or as a volunteer, it is fairly easy to find recent English graduates, or students studying English at the College of Foreign Languages of the University of Da Nang who will happily work through a Vietnamese textbook with you for a lot less than US$5/hour, and this is probably as good a way as any to acquire some Vietnamese. There are Vietnamese course books for foreigners: Teach Yourself Vietnamese (Huong Dan Tu Hoc Tieng Viet, a Complete Course for Beginners) by Dana Healy is one of the best; Jake Catlett and Huong Nguyen's Vietnamese for Beginners is easier and less comprehensive; Nguyen Anh Que's Vietnamese for Foreigners is good and has a lot of material and vocabulary.

Work
There are a number of schools (ILA, Apollo, Academy English Center, and the University of Da Nang) where qualified teachers can teach English. The salaries are many times above the average national wage.

Buy
Shops often operate from the ground floor of their homes, selling any number of things: coffee, bánh mì sandwiches, dry goods, clothing, SIM cards and more. Walk a little farther and you'll eventually come across a neighbourhood market where people sell fresh foods like fruits and vegetables, eggs, meat, and fish. You can do a lot of shopping but be aware that, as a foreigner, you're likely to be overcharged unless you haggle. There are an increasing number of supermarkets appearing where prices are fixed.

Markets and night markets


Night markets (chợ đêm) are a particularly popular choice for shopping and eating after the heat of the day has died down.







Eat


Although not a culinary capital like the ancient imperial capital Hue, Da Nang still has more than enough variety to keep you well fed throughout your stay. Seafood (hải sản) is popular, so you shouldn't be surprised to see plenty of fish (cá), shrimp (tôm), squid (mực), clams (nghêu), snails (ốc), the list goes on. There are many vegetarian restaurants which are listed as "Quán chay" ("vegetarian") or less frequently "Quán ăn chay" ("vegetarian restaurant"), and most are vegan. The vegetarian restaurants have a wide selection of dishes and are generally cleaner than places that are not vegetarian.

Then there are regional specialities like mì Quảng, or Quang Nam-style noodles, featuring chicken, shrimp, quail eggs, peanuts and rice crackers in a turmeric-spiced broth; bún chả cá, or rice vermicelli with fish sausage; and bún mắm, or rice vermicelli served with a strong fish sauce that's not for the weak of palate. Central Vietnamese love their food to be spicy, so be warned that the chili peppers (ớt) can be strong even if small.

Budget


The night markets (see Buy) are also a great place to feast on local food cheaply.

Splurge


Da Nang's favorite splurge is live seafood (hải sản) restaurants, dozens of which can be found around the My Khe seafront. They all follow basically the same formula: pick your victims from the tanks (or simple plastic buckets in cheaper backstreet joints), say how you'd like to have them cooked (the staff is happy to make recommendations), and before you can say "and some Larue beer please" the dishes will start piling up on your table. Use caution when ordering though: you'll be guided to the most expensive items like lobster, crab and exotic fish, which can easily rack up a bill of hundreds of dollars. If the menu says "market price", or the labelling of the tanks is not clear, double-check the price before ordering.



Coffee


Coffee is a large part of the Vietnamese culture and it's enjoyed differently from place to place. Coffee served in Da Nang and throughout Central Vietnam tends to be stronger than coffee served in the south. One of the most popular variations of coffee in the south is "cà phê sữa đá Sài Gòn" which is coffee prepared in a "phin" filter and served with sweetened condensed milk in a tall glass filled with small cubes of ice. When in doubt what type of coffee to get this is the one to order. In Da Nang and throughout central Vietnam they tend to drink a style of coffee called "cà phê phin sữa đá Đà Nẵng" which is similar to "cà phê sữa đá Sài Gòn" but is instead served in a short glass with one large block of ice, which melts as slowly as the coffee drips down from its metal filter—leaving them time to chat with friends, colleagues, or whoever might be sitting nearby. A common variation is "cà phê sữa đá Đà Nẵng" which is similar except the coffee is brewed before serving as some places brew their coffee in batches. Try both the Saigon and Danang versions. On cold days many will drink "cà phê sữa nóng" which is a hot and very strong coffee with sweetened condensed milk served in a 100 ml glass. Expect to pay 15,000 to 30,000 dong.

There are several kinds of coffee shop in Da Nang, from street-side cà phê cóc, through mid-class shops to more luxurious ones. Most offer Wi-Fi nowadays, in case you want a place to relax and get online.

Budget


Walk down any street in Da Nang and you will no doubt come across a group of Vietnamese men squatting on tiny plastic chairs, sipping cups of coffee—often sold out of a cooler or a drink cart—as they chat with friends or playing Chinese chess. This is cà phê cóc (literally, "frog coffee", from the way patrons squat to drink):

Mid-range
Mid-class shops are found everywhere; the drinks are quite cheap and they are a place to relax or meet friends. A step up from cà phê cóc, these shops are usually quite comfortable and serve a variety of non-alcoholic drinks besides coffee, such as tea, smoothies and fruit juices.



Splurge
Luxurious coffee shops can be found on many streets of the city, they are quite nice and elaborately decorated—with higher prices to match. Many can be found along Phan Chau Trinh St. Some incorporate open-air gardens, with air-conditioned areas indoors, and some even feature live music in the evenings.



Sleep


Long gone are the days when backpacker lodges nestled by the palm trees at My Khe beach. Today virtually the entire 40 kilometer stretch down to Hoi An is covered in hotels, hotels and construction sites for yet more hotels, and this is where the vast majority of visitors to the city will end up.

As a rule of thumb, hotels at the north end closer to the city are high-rise, set back from the ocean and often cramped, but offer easy access to the city and tons of eating options. The further south you go, the more spacious and resort-like they become, but getting anywhere at all will require a lengthy cab ride. Prices run the gamut, with Western brands charging a heavy premium for predictable dependability, while local hotels often cater more to local tour groups.

Budget
There are many small hotels along the east side of the river (Tran Hung Dao St), which may be as cheap as 90,000 dong for a double room and have Wi-Fi, hot water, air-con, tv and fridge. Pham Phu Thu is a good street with many budget hotels in the center on the west side of the river.



Internet
Free Wi-Fi is available in restaurants, cafés, the train station, larger plazas, ho(s)tels, and some supermarket chains.

There are also still plenty of Internet and Gaming cafés scattered around Da Nang that will charge a small fee for an hour's use of web, e-mail, or whatever you like.

Post
There's a convenient post office branch right on Bach Dang Road, right next to the Han River Bridge. There are also major branches in each of Da Nang's districts, so you can drop off a letter or postcard wherever you might be.



Stay safe
In general, you'll find that Da Nang is a safer and far more laid back city compared to hectic Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. As the number of tourists rises, of course, things begin to change. That doesn't mean you'll have to walk down the street clutching your bag like you would in bigger cities. Still, it pays to observe some rules of thumb to avoid unnecessary hassles:


 * Avoid wearing ostentatious jewellery or clothing that flaunts your (comparatively) rich lifestyle.
 * Carry cash and copies of important papers in a thin wallet rather than in a large purse.
 * It's safe to leave a rented motorbike outside during the day, but be sure to bring it inside during the night.
 * While cannabis is fairly common and sold at some bars it's still illegal and possession carries a stiff penalty.

Like other cities in Vietnam, crossing the road can be a challenge, since roads are wide and the traffic never stops. Walk at a predictable pace so motorbikes can swerve around you and try to cross together with locals until you get the hang of it.

Taxi scams
One thing to beware of is the standard taxi scam: When going on a long trip to Ba Na Hills, Hue, or elsewhere, an unscrupulous taxi driver may stop and agree to a very low price for a return journey. Once you reach your destination, he triples or quadruples the price, knowing you have no other options. When you do return to your hotel—parking the car slightly away or out of sight of the main entrance—he locks the doors and demands the price first before letting you go. To avoid getting caught in this kind of situation, stick with taxis from reputable companies such as Mai Linh or Vinasun, and agree a price with them. To play it even safer, take your driver to the hotel reception to confirm the price again and leave the taxi details, including the licence plate number, with hotel reception.

Another scam that appears to be reported for transport from Da Nang airport to Hoi An at night, is that even when the driver confirms that he knows where the hostel is located, at some point he says he needs help from a passerby to locate it and, just by chance, this person will speak English fluently. This person then boards the taxi saying he will help the driver giving directions and eventually will start promoting his business to the passenger. To avoid this scenario it is suggested that for late arrivals a private transfer be arranged with a travel agency or with the hostel in advance. The extra cost may well be worth the peace of mind.

Cope
Da Nang is less Westernized than Hanoi or HCMC, so it can be more difficult to feel settled here. All the same, the locals are friendly/curious enough to always be willing to help you, even when there is no common language.

Pulled or accident (motorbike)
Most local "Công An" (pine green uniform) and traffic "CSGT" (tan uniform) police in Da Nang will recognize an International Drivers Permit (IDP) which most likely means a quick traffic stop and being sent on your way after a simple paperwork check. This is less certain out in the country.

Go next

 * Cham Islands – 20 km across the bay from Da Nang
 * Hue – The ancient capital and gateway to northern Vietnam, 2 hr by bus
 * Hoi An – only 45 minutes away by bus or taxi
 * Quy Nhon – If Da Nang is just too much for you, head to this inexpensive and tourist-free alternative, half way to Nha Trang — yet off many people's radar and still a tranquil and authentic, lively and pleasant city with a much (among the locals) hyped beach.