Cuenca (Ecuador)

Cuenca is a vibrant colonial city in southern Ecuador, the third largest in the country, and the capital of Azuay Province. The city is located in a highland valley at about 2,500 m (8,200 ft) above sea level, and is home to 518,000 people according to the 2010 census. Its moderate climate makes it enjoyable year round. The center of the city is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site site because of its many historical buildings. Everywhere you look in Cuenca, there are flowers, blooming trees, grass and rushing waters.

Cuenca is surrounded by mountains on all sides, with passes to the west, south and east. From downtown, looking southwest, you can see the beautiful Cajas mountains; the majority of this area is protected by the large Cajas National Park (Parque Nacional Cajas), well worth the trip.

The city is cleaner and safer than most large cities in developing countries and there are claims it has purer water than most U.S. and European cities. Unlike other cities in Ecuador, the drinking water is OK to consume. From 2010 to 2013 the government utility agency, ETAPA, built new water and sewage mains covering 8,000 hectares (20,000 acres).

The Cuenca city government has hired a Spanish urban planning company to design 80 km of bicycle trails that will be constructed throughout the city of Cuenca. These trails are in addition to the trails that already follow several of the rivers that run through Cuenca.

Understand
Cuenca's full name is Santa Ana de los cuatro ríos de Cuenca. The dominant features of the city's geography are also the source of its name; In Spanish cuatro rios means "four rivers" and cuenca means "basin", and the city is in a basin made by a confluence of rivers. These rivers are the Tomebamba (named after the Cañari culture), Yanuncay, Tarqui and Machangara, in order of importance. The first three of these rivers originate in the Páramo of Parque Nacional Cajas to the west of the city. These four rivers are part of the Amazon river watershed. In fact, the locals are very proud of their rivers.

Cuenca is a city whose culture encompasses over 100 years or more at the same time. While walking in Cuenca, you will see modern buildings, use high-speed internet and wireless communications while seeing natives washing their clothes in the river while talking on cell phones. You will see many modern vehicles while seeing people move their cows, horses and donkeys to graze along the rivers and parks. In around the markets, you will see people milking their goats and others hauling milk into town on a donkey. This is the charm of Cuenca, a culture that encapsulates traditions and practices of many decades.

A tram line, Tranvía, has been in operation since March 2020, along one line with 27 stops.

Cuenca is a very walkable city. Over the past year, the city has been upgrading miles of sidewalks which is making the city even more pedestrian friendly. Just watch for the drivers, because they will not watch for you. The Ecuadorian government is working on slowing down traffic, but this will take some time and education.

By plane


Be mindful that, unless you are already in Quito or Guayaquil, flying to Cuenca will likely require multiple layovers. If connecting through Quito or Guayaquil, you may have to go through customs then re-enter through security. Make sure you have enough time between flights to make your connections.

A taxi from the Cuenca airport to the center of the city is approximately US$2–3. The Tranvía, Cuenca's tramway line, also connects the airport with the city center. As of December 2023, a ticket on the Tranvia costs US$1.

By bus or car
Cuenca lies on the Pan-American highway. Buses offer connections to many cities in Ecuador. The bus system in Ecuador is well developed. Buses can be obtained every one or two hours during the day.

Loja for connections to Vilcabamba (4½-7 hr, $7.5). The Viajeros buses to Loja do not have a working bathroom and they can take up to 7 hours (you maybe told that it will take 4 hours and that it only make one stop, but it may stop more than 50 times).

San Luis buses run from Cuenca to Loja using the national park route and take 4½ hours, $8. Departures at 07:45, 11:00, 16:00, 19:30 and 24:00. There is a working toilet.


 * To Alausi: 4 hours (Transportes Alausi)
 * To Riobamba: 6 hours (Patria)
 * To Piura, Peru: There is a service to Piura leaving at 19:30, 21:00 and 23:00. This is a partnership between two companies, Pullman Sucre and CIFA International.  It is necessary to change bus at either Machala or Huaquillas.  The 19:30 and 23:00 services connect to a special sleeper seat service.  The price is $12–15 depending on the class of service. It is a good idea to purchase your ticket a day in advance as it is not unusual for them to book out.
 * To Tumbes, Peru: Azuay has one bus a day from Tumbes to Cuenca at 21:00 that arrives in Tumbes at 03:00 or so. Pullman Sucre no longer runs this route, despite what the schedule on their website says (Feb 2018). You may prefer to take one of several buses a day offered by Pullman Sucre or by Azuay ($8, Feb 2018) bus to Huaquillas (Ecuador), and take a bus or taxi for the remaining 30-min drive to Tumbes.

A yellow taxi to the joint Ecuador-Peru "Migraciones" building is $5, and a white Peruvian taxi from there to Tumbes is a fixed rate of US$10 or S/33 (Feb 2018) -- the drivers take either currency, regardless of what you might be told by a taxi driver from Huaquillas who will offer you soles at a rip-off exchange rate.

There is a $0.10 departure fee for leaving from the bus terminal, which you pay at a machine before you can access the platform.

Get around
Cuenca's tourism office, iTur, is on the main plaza (Parque Calderón) and has lots of helpful maps and brochures to guide you during your visit in and around the city. (M-F 08:00–22:00, Sa Su 08:30–13:30 Mariscal Sucre, between Luis Cordero and Benigno Malo. +593 7-282-1035, itur@cuenca.com.ec). There is also a satellite iTur office in the airport (M-W 07:30–11:00, 14:00–15:30 and 17:00–19:00, Th F 07:30–11:00, 14:00–15:30, 16:30–19:00, Sa 08:00–12:00. +593 7-286-2203, ext 162).

Central Cuenca is easily walkable, and it is often faster than taking a cab through the narrow traffic-jammed lanes.

Cabs are readily available and charge $1.50–3 per trip. The fee should be negotiated before entering the car. Some taxis make use of taxi-meters.

City buses are also fairly easy to figure out. Most bus stops are marked. The cost is $0.25 per ride (exact change is required as you put coins into a machine, there is no fare collector on the bus) (July 2017). You can buy an SIT card for $1.75 at any shop that offers SIT recargas. You can find a guide to using the City buses, as well as maps of the routes and an online trip planner at CuencaTransit.com.

See

 * The New Cathedral (c 1885). [[Image:New_Cathedral2.jpg|thumb|right|New Cathedral]] Looming over the main plaza is the city's main church, with its famous 3 large domes. Spot the vertical crack in the building between the statue and the rosette. For $3.00 you can climb to the rooftop terrace, the entrance is from Santa Ana street (it only costs $1.00 if you enter it as part of the free walking tour).
 * Seminario San Luis. Two small but cute courtyards adjacent to the cathedral, they can be accessed from Santa Ana street or from Parque Calderón / Benigno Malo. Both offer beautiful views of the domes of the New Cathedral. There is a few restaurants and coffee shops there, a very nice scenery to enjoy your meal.
 * El Sagrario (the "old cathedral"). Construction began in 1557. It's no longer in use as a church, and is now a museum. A restoration project has been completed and the original paint and old murals can now be seen in certain sections. $2.
 * Christmas Parade (Pase del Niño Viajero) — On 24 December, Cuenca offers a magnificent parade, considered to be the largest and best Christmas celebration in Ecuador and even South America. The procession begins at 10:00 at San Sebastian, goes along Simón Bolivar street, Plaza Calderón and ends up in San Blas. Thousands of musicians accompany the procession and every neighborhood decorates trucks, horses and whatever they can find with plenty of symbols. Children dress up in colorful costumes or as biblical figures. The parade last for at least 7 hours. During the parade, you will see thousands of people dressed up as Joseph, Mary, the three Wise Men, angels, etc. This is truly a sight to see.
 * Festival de Independencia — The independence of Cuenca is celebrated with a huge festival that lasts twice as long as the battle did. Each year it begins the first few days of November and lasts for three to four days. There are hundreds of art displays, craft booths, roving entertainment, street food, and general festivities. Artisans from all over Ecuador, Colombia, Peru and Bolivia display and sell their works. During this time, there are also many stages with bands and performers. On the north side of the river, at the bottom of the Escalinatas, the grounds of the art museum CIDAP host much more elaborate display booths than those that crowd the sidewalks. A little farther up the river, at La Esquina des Artes across from the University of Cuenca, there are several artists, and a few vendors sell gourmet food products. La Esquina des Artes is an area of permanent shops of artists and artisans.
 * Christmas Parade (Pase del Niño Viajero) — On 24 December, Cuenca offers a magnificent parade, considered to be the largest and best Christmas celebration in Ecuador and even South America. The procession begins at 10:00 at San Sebastian, goes along Simón Bolivar street, Plaza Calderón and ends up in San Blas. Thousands of musicians accompany the procession and every neighborhood decorates trucks, horses and whatever they can find with plenty of symbols. Children dress up in colorful costumes or as biblical figures. The parade last for at least 7 hours. During the parade, you will see thousands of people dressed up as Joseph, Mary, the three Wise Men, angels, etc. This is truly a sight to see.
 * Festival de Independencia — The independence of Cuenca is celebrated with a huge festival that lasts twice as long as the battle did. Each year it begins the first few days of November and lasts for three to four days. There are hundreds of art displays, craft booths, roving entertainment, street food, and general festivities. Artisans from all over Ecuador, Colombia, Peru and Bolivia display and sell their works. During this time, there are also many stages with bands and performers. On the north side of the river, at the bottom of the Escalinatas, the grounds of the art museum CIDAP host much more elaborate display booths than those that crowd the sidewalks. A little farther up the river, at La Esquina des Artes across from the University of Cuenca, there are several artists, and a few vendors sell gourmet food products. La Esquina des Artes is an area of permanent shops of artists and artisans.
 * Festival de Independencia — The independence of Cuenca is celebrated with a huge festival that lasts twice as long as the battle did. Each year it begins the first few days of November and lasts for three to four days. There are hundreds of art displays, craft booths, roving entertainment, street food, and general festivities. Artisans from all over Ecuador, Colombia, Peru and Bolivia display and sell their works. During this time, there are also many stages with bands and performers. On the north side of the river, at the bottom of the Escalinatas, the grounds of the art museum CIDAP host much more elaborate display booths than those that crowd the sidewalks. A little farther up the river, at La Esquina des Artes across from the University of Cuenca, there are several artists, and a few vendors sell gourmet food products. La Esquina des Artes is an area of permanent shops of artists and artisans.

Outside of Cuenca

 * Devil’s Nose train leaves from Alausi, about 2½ hours from Cuenca. It is considered one of the world’s best railway engineering feats. This scenic railway travels over a series of switchbacks as it zigzags down the steep mountainside passing small villages and Andean lakes along the way. As of March 2022, the train remains shut down due to continuing COVID restrictions. There is a hiking trail nearby that offers a view of the train's route. Contact local tour companies for further information and assistance.
 * Hot springs and spa in Cuenca — On the outskirts of Cuenca, about a 15-minute bus ride from Coral Centro on Las Americas, 40 minutes from downtown, is a quaint little town called Baños de Cuenca (not to be confused with Baños, nearer Quito.) Baños de Cuenca is right below a mountain where natural warm mineral water flows into the valley. The people of this quiet little town took advantage of this natural resource and created three different mineral spring parks where one can go and bathe in the mineral pools. Two of these mineral springs are geared for families with small children, $8 per day per person. Piedra de Agua Mineral Springs & Spa, a beautiful resort with restaurant, is in the same area. Admission is $10 to spend the whole day in these mineral pools, $20 extra for the spa. Sunscreen can be handy as the pools are outdoor.
 * Hot springs and spa in Cuenca — On the outskirts of Cuenca, about a 15-minute bus ride from Coral Centro on Las Americas, 40 minutes from downtown, is a quaint little town called Baños de Cuenca (not to be confused with Baños, nearer Quito.) Baños de Cuenca is right below a mountain where natural warm mineral water flows into the valley. The people of this quiet little town took advantage of this natural resource and created three different mineral spring parks where one can go and bathe in the mineral pools. Two of these mineral springs are geared for families with small children, $8 per day per person. Piedra de Agua Mineral Springs & Spa, a beautiful resort with restaurant, is in the same area. Admission is $10 to spend the whole day in these mineral pools, $20 extra for the spa. Sunscreen can be handy as the pools are outdoor.

Learn

 * Learn Spanish. There are many language schools for foreign visitors in Cuenca.

Buy

 * Flowers at the flower market on Calle Sucre across from the new cathedral. Continue on about a block from there to get to the clothing and artesan market where one can also find knit crafts from Otavalo. Lovely handmade ruanas, sweaters, hats, mittens, and finger puppets are also available here.
 * Inside the yellow CemuArt building across from the police station at the market other artisans have booths with beautiful embroidery, metal, wood and leather work, Panama hats, musical instruments, knit goods, jewelry and other handicrafts.

Eat




Mid-range

 * Hotel Inca Real: Charming heritage site at General Torres 8-40 between Sucre and Bolivar, behind the new cathedral. Most rooms are large, and all are quiet. All room windows open onto interior courtyards. Three colonial houses joined into one charming hotel. There are three interior courtyards. The first is the hotel lobby and breakfast room, the second has a lovely fountain, and the third is a quiet hideaway. +593 7-2823-636.  $45.14 for two people, including tax and breakfast.
 * Hotel Inca Real: Charming heritage site at General Torres 8-40 between Sucre and Bolivar, behind the new cathedral. Most rooms are large, and all are quiet. All room windows open onto interior courtyards. Three colonial houses joined into one charming hotel. There are three interior courtyards. The first is the hotel lobby and breakfast room, the second has a lovely fountain, and the third is a quiet hideaway. +593 7-2823-636.  $45.14 for two people, including tax and breakfast.
 * Hotel Inca Real: Charming heritage site at General Torres 8-40 between Sucre and Bolivar, behind the new cathedral. Most rooms are large, and all are quiet. All room windows open onto interior courtyards. Three colonial houses joined into one charming hotel. There are three interior courtyards. The first is the hotel lobby and breakfast room, the second has a lovely fountain, and the third is a quiet hideaway. +593 7-2823-636.  $45.14 for two people, including tax and breakfast.
 * Hotel Inca Real: Charming heritage site at General Torres 8-40 between Sucre and Bolivar, behind the new cathedral. Most rooms are large, and all are quiet. All room windows open onto interior courtyards. Three colonial houses joined into one charming hotel. There are three interior courtyards. The first is the hotel lobby and breakfast room, the second has a lovely fountain, and the third is a quiet hideaway. +593 7-2823-636.  $45.14 for two people, including tax and breakfast.

Go next
Cajas National Park: Approximately a 1-hour drive outside Cuenca you will find this national park with beautiful lagoons. It is free to enter and you will be asked to check in at the front office, requiring your passport. There are restrooms and a cafeteria at the park entrance as well. Hiking, camping, and fishing are popular activities. You can reach Cajas by bus (leaving from Terminal Terrestre) or you can arrange a cab. It can take some time to return as you'll have to wait for a bus or cab.

There are several hiking routes through Cajas. "Route 1" is the shortest (approximately 3 miles) and is a good day hike, taking you past several lagoons and inside a stunning forest of "paper trees." Route 1 does not require any technical climbing, but it has lengthy uphill sections and can be physically challenging. Depending on your fitness and pace, route 1 can take 2-4 hours.

Due to the high altitude, Cajas can be much colder than lower-elevation areas, so bring warm layers. If you are unused to the altitude, go slowly and rest as needed. Inexperienced hikers should consider going with a guide or requesting a guide at the park entrance as it is possible to get lost.

Sigsig and Chordeleg: Lovely towns about an hour outside of Cuenca. The landscape during the bus ride is quite scenic. Chordeleg is known for its silver and gold and is a pleasant town to walk around in. Sig Sig is known for a co-op of women who weave 'sombrero de paja toquilla' aka 'Panama Hats' or 'Montecristi'. There is a beautiful river to sit by and a market to visit.

Onward towards Peru: Many travellers find themselves in Cuenca as their last stop in Ecuador before heading to Peru. The fastest way to get to Peru is via Huaquillas and into Tumbes. At Cuenca's Terminal Terrestre there is a company called Pullman Sucre that will sell you a ticket to Tumbes, Mancora or Piura. The journey is fairly simple and involves the following: First 5 or so hours on a Pullman bus until Huaquillas where the bus will stop by the highway at the Ecuadorian immigration point to get your exit stamp. Since this is the end of the journey on the first bus you will have to wait for the CIFA bus to arrive and pick you up. The CIFA bus will head through Aguas Verdes and onto the Peruvian immigration point to get the entry stamp and then head onward towards for another 30–40 min to Tumbes.