Cookstown

Cookstown is a town historically in County Tyrone, Northern Ireland, but since 2015 part of Mid-Ulster district. It's named for Dr Alan Cooke who founded it circa 1620 as an Ulster Plantation town, but for 150 years it didn't get going. Then it grew with the linen industry, acquiring its famously long wide main street, and the railway arrived. The 20th century collapse of textile trades and the sectarian Troubles fed upon each other and Cookstown slumped. In the 21st century it's slowly reviving through the Good Friday Agreement peace and as a commuter town for Belfast but remains a work in progress; in 2021 it had a population of 12,500.

Medieval Kings of Tyrone, the O'Neill dynasty, were inaugurated a couple of miles south at Tullyhogue. Notable local people include "Typhoid Mary" Mallon and the politician Bernadette Devlin McAliskey.

Get in
See Belfast for long-distance travel routes by air or sea. If you're flying in and hiring a car, there are two Belfast airports, and Dublin Airport is almost as convenient as it's north of the city, you turn straight onto the M1 north. From Belfast follow M1 west to Dungannon then A29 into Cookstown. From the ferry ports at Belfast or Larne it's quicker to join M2 west to Magherafelt then A31. From Dublin branch off the motorway at Newry to follow A28 to Armagh then A29 to Dungannon and Cookstown.

By bus
Bus 209 runs from Belfast Europa station via Lurgan, taking 1 hr 40 min to Cookstown. There are five M-F, three on Saturday and two on Sunday.

It's often more convenient to take the hourly Goldline Bus 273 from Belfast to Dungannon (heading for Omagh, Strabane and Derry). From there, Bus 80 runs to Cookstown every hour or two, for a total journey of around two hours.

Ulsterbus 110 / 210 runs from Antrim via Randalstown, Castledawson, Magherafelt and Moneymore, taking 70 min to Cookstown. They're every two hours M-F, with only four on Saturday. On Sunday only two buses run, but they start from Belfast Europa station.

Bus 89 also runs twice M-F from Magherafelt, but takes a roundabout route via Arboe and Killycolpy.

Bus X4 runs once a day from Dublin Busáras and Airport via Armagh and Dungannon, taking 3 hours to Cookstown, and continuing via Maghera to Londonderry. The X3 between Dublin and Londonderry runs via Omagh and doesn't serve Cookstown.

Goldline Bus 278 runs in university term-time, with one bus Su-F from Monaghan via Armagh, Moy, Dungannon, Cookstown, Magherafelt, Garvagh and Coleraine to Ulster University, Portstewart and Portrush.

is on Molesworth Street a block east of main street.

Get around
Cookstown's sights are scattered widely around the countryside with no public transport. Tullyhogue is a couple of miles walk but you need wheels for the others, eg the bus for Beaghmore and the beetling mill only runs twice a day. Consider hiring a taxi for a few hours, and the driver will know which obscure country lane to turn up, and yarn about how his great-grandmother used to milk the cows there.

National Cycleway 95 runs mostly on-road from Armagh to Dungannon, Cookstown and Strabane, while Route 94 circles Lough Neagh.

See

 * Cookstown main street is the longest in Ireland, 1.25 miles long and 135 feet wide, laid out in the 1790s in an attempt to out-shine Dublin's O'Connell Street. It goes by various names along its length and its buildings are mostly Victorian, springing up when the railway arrived in 1856. Handsome examples along it are Holy Trinity Church and Derryloran Parish Church (both below), the former Courthouse, the First Presbyterian Church and the Methodist Church. On Molesworth Street find another Presbyterian Church and the old railway terminus.
 * Derryloran Parish Church (Church of Ireland) was built in 1822 to a "First Fruits" design by John Nash, but extended almost beyond recognition as the town's population grew.
 * Derryloran Old Church and graveyard is half a mile west along Drum Road, junction with Sandholes Road. It was built in 1622 replacing 15th-century churches. In the 19th century it was abandoned for the Nash church in town centre.
 * Derryloran Old Church and graveyard is half a mile west along Drum Road, junction with Sandholes Road. It was built in 1622 replacing 15th-century churches. In the 19th century it was abandoned for the Nash church in town centre.
 * Donaghrisk walled cemetery is half a mile southwest of the Fort, a circular enclosure in the field far side of B520 Tullywiggan Road. It's the ancestral graveyard of the O'Hagans, chief justices of Tyrone under the O'Neills.
 * has a mix of woodland, heath and blanket bog. There are mountain-bike trails.
 * , meaning "red fort", is an unusual burial cairn in a horseshoe ring, probably Bronze Age from 2000 BC. The walls are still six foot high; nowadays a tree grows in the middle. It's on private land on Crockyneill Hill so only approach with the farmer's permission.
 * stands by a lane 1 km southwest of Dun Ruadh. It's not much to look at, but such stones were erected 5th-6th century AD as memorials. The inscription reads ᚛ᚇᚑᚈᚓᚈᚈᚑ ᚋᚐᚊᚔ ᚋᚐᚌᚂᚐᚅᚔ᚜ which (in case your Ogham's a bit rusty) transcribes as "Dotetto, Mac (ie tribe of) Maglani".
 * may be 5000 years old. It's 200 yards west of Loughmallon Road, watch for the signpost, but the farmer may block access if there's livestock in the field.
 * is six miles north of town along B162. It's a reservoir lake, angling is permitted, and there's a firm walking trail around it of 2.5 miles. On the lane northeast is Ballybriest, a dual court tomb from perhaps 3500 BC, and Corick stone circle is further up the hill. Rising above is Slieve Gallion, the eastern summit of The Sperrins: see Magherafelt.
 * is a little village on the shore of Lough Neagh. Its main attraction is the 10th century High Cross, the oldest in Ulster, 18 foot tall and elaborately carved. There was a monastery here from the 6th century, founded by Saint Colman, but nothing remains. A mile north at the junction of Annaghmore Rd and Aneeterer Rd is Coyle's Cottage, a 250-year-old fisherman's cottage. It's occasionally been open to visits.
 * stands by a lane 1 km southwest of Dun Ruadh. It's not much to look at, but such stones were erected 5th-6th century AD as memorials. The inscription reads ᚛ᚇᚑᚈᚓᚈᚈᚑ ᚋᚐᚊᚔ ᚋᚐᚌᚂᚐᚅᚔ᚜ which (in case your Ogham's a bit rusty) transcribes as "Dotetto, Mac (ie tribe of) Maglani".
 * may be 5000 years old. It's 200 yards west of Loughmallon Road, watch for the signpost, but the farmer may block access if there's livestock in the field.
 * is six miles north of town along B162. It's a reservoir lake, angling is permitted, and there's a firm walking trail around it of 2.5 miles. On the lane northeast is Ballybriest, a dual court tomb from perhaps 3500 BC, and Corick stone circle is further up the hill. Rising above is Slieve Gallion, the eastern summit of The Sperrins: see Magherafelt.
 * is a little village on the shore of Lough Neagh. Its main attraction is the 10th century High Cross, the oldest in Ulster, 18 foot tall and elaborately carved. There was a monastery here from the 6th century, founded by Saint Colman, but nothing remains. A mile north at the junction of Annaghmore Rd and Aneeterer Rd is Coyle's Cottage, a 250-year-old fisherman's cottage. It's occasionally been open to visits.
 * is a little village on the shore of Lough Neagh. Its main attraction is the 10th century High Cross, the oldest in Ulster, 18 foot tall and elaborately carved. There was a monastery here from the 6th century, founded by Saint Colman, but nothing remains. A mile north at the junction of Annaghmore Rd and Aneeterer Rd is Coyle's Cottage, a 250-year-old fisherman's cottage. It's occasionally been open to visits.
 * is a little village on the shore of Lough Neagh. Its main attraction is the 10th century High Cross, the oldest in Ulster, 18 foot tall and elaborately carved. There was a monastery here from the 6th century, founded by Saint Colman, but nothing remains. A mile north at the junction of Annaghmore Rd and Aneeterer Rd is Coyle's Cottage, a 250-year-old fisherman's cottage. It's occasionally been open to visits.

Do

 * Burnavon Arts Centre puts on theatre, music and panto. It's on Burn Rd in town centre.
 * Cinema: Ritz Multiplex shows main film releases. It's on Burn Rd opposite the Arts Centre.
 * Lanyon Hall is a live music venue on Molesworth St near the bus station.
 * Cookstown Leisure Centre on Fountain Rd has a gym, fitness classes and 25 m pool.
 * Golf: Killymoon GC is at the castle, see above. White tees 6153 yards, par 70, visitor round £30.
 * Lough Neagh is the large freshwater lake in the centre of Northern Ireland, bordered by five of the six traditional counties. Most of the marinas are on the east (Antrim) side towards Belfast. On the west shore near Cookstown there is road access at Aughnamullen, Brockagh and Ardboe, but the best facilities are at . This has a marina, a camping and caravan site, a woodland park for strolling, and a couple of pubs.

Buy

 * Station Square and Molesworth Place are two shopping malls bracketing the bus station.
 * Gortalowry is the principal retail area along main street, south towards the river.
 * Broadfields Retail Park 200 yards west of main street has big stores such as Tesco.

Drink

 * Try also the bars at Royal Hotel and Glenavon Hotel, see Sleep.
 * Clearsky Brewing Company produce a small range of ales. The brewery is a few miles south along the road to Dungannon; no tours.
 * Try also the bars at Royal Hotel and Glenavon Hotel, see Sleep.
 * Clearsky Brewing Company produce a small range of ales. The brewery is a few miles south along the road to Dungannon; no tours.
 * Try also the bars at Royal Hotel and Glenavon Hotel, see Sleep.
 * Clearsky Brewing Company produce a small range of ales. The brewery is a few miles south along the road to Dungannon; no tours.
 * Try also the bars at Royal Hotel and Glenavon Hotel, see Sleep.
 * Clearsky Brewing Company produce a small range of ales. The brewery is a few miles south along the road to Dungannon; no tours.

Sleep

 * Drum Manor camping and caravan site (see above) is open mid-Mar to Oct, £20 per unit per night.

Connect
As of Aug 2021, Cookstown has a mobile and 4G signal from all UK carriers, but there are dead areas in the surrounding countryside. 5G has not reached this area.

Go next

 * Armagh has always been the ecclesiastic capital of Ireland and has two cathedrals.
 * Belfast: don't just hurry through its transport hub, it deserves a couple of days to explore.