Concepción (Paraguay)

Concepción is an attractive city on the river Paraguay 460 km north of Asunción in northern Paraguay. With some 83,000 inhabitants it is known as La Perla del Norte (pearl of the north) for its beautiful setting, elegant homes and well preserved public buildings. This is also the place where adventurers and backpackers come to board the Aquidabán boat, a living relic that sails up the river Paraguay once a week to Bahia Negra in the extreme north of Paraguay making stops in almost all riverside communities along the way including Vallemí and Fuerte Olimpo of touristic interest.

Understand
Concepción is distinguished by the beauty of its public buildings and aristocratic residences. Most of them were built at the beginning of the 20th century by European immigrants who were attracted to settle in this part of Paraguay when the export trade flourished and the city port was bustling with commercial activity. The trade activity declined in the 1950s and the city remained a sleepy town for decades, but at the beginning of the 21st century a new port was built and the town is regaining its importance as an exporter point of cattle, beef, and agricultural products of both Northern Paraguay and Western Brazil.

As a riverside city, fishing is also an important leisure activity. For the visitors there are several boats that offer one to multi-day sport fishing services to sites located in the vicinity of town and further north. During long weekends and holidays Concepción fills with people from Pedro Juan Caballero and Brazilians from Mato Grosso do Sul who come to fishing in the river Paraguay. Also youths from nearby towns come to enjoy the city's nightlife.

Concepción has three interesting museums each representing a different era of Paraguay's history. The Museo Villa Real is a testament to the city's role during the Triple Alliance War when this place was used by Mariscal Francisco Solano López as a headquarters for his troops. The Museo Cívico displays several paintings from Concepción's heyday as an important trading post. And the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo has some fine examples of Paraguayan contemporary art including works by renowned painter and a Concepción native, Carlos Colombino.

History
Concepción was founded in 1773 by Agustín Fernando de Pinedo, the Governor of the Spanish colonial Province of Paraguay, close to the existing settlement of Belén to protect territories to the south from attacks by the indigenous Mbaya tribes, also as a centre for growing yerba mate, and for defense against the Portuguese who were always trying to extent the boundaries of its colony, Brazil, over the Spanish territories. Concepción remained exclusively a military outpost for almost 40 years until 1812 when civilians were allowed to settle in and a local government (cabildo) was established. In 1864, Mariscal Francisco Solano López set off from here with 2,500 soldiers to attack the Mato Grosso of Brazil, an event that triggered the Triple Alliance War against Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay. A few years later Mariscal López met his demise in Cerro Corá (175 km to the east and now a national park) and his wake was held in Concepción.

In 1884 the town became a municipality and with its strategic location on the Paraguay river it rapidly became an important shipping hub during the late 1800s and early 1900s. Yerba mate and wood arrived from other Paraguayan departments as well as the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso. These goods were then transported downriver to Argentinian ports where they were re-embarked to Europe and Asia. During this period Concepción saw its grandeur and received a large influx of Italian, Spanish, and Arab immigrants who left their mark on the city in the form of beautifully decorated manors. Many of these buildings are still preserved and some have been nicely restored.

Though its prominence faded somewhat Concepción continues to be an important national transportation hub. Boats departing from the renovated and upgraded port of Concepción serve as a lifeline for the people in the Chaco on the western side of the river and the northern section of the region (on the eastern side of the river) where the roads are frequently impassable and the Paraguay river becomes the only way of communication.

A promoter of the arts: Carlos Colombino
Carlos Colombino (1937-2013) was one of Paraguay's most preeminent painters and a driving force in the nation's cultural scene. Colombino pioneered a technique known as xilopintura, engraving and sculpting thin sheets of wood to create large panels with an otherworldly quality. His work consistently denounced the Stroessner regime with pieces such as "El Torturado" (the tortured one), "El General a Cuerda" (the wind-up general) and a series simply named "Paraguay". Colombino helped found several of the museums in the country including the Museo del Barro in Asunción. Museo del Mueble Paraguayo in Areguá, and the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo in Concepción and lent his expertise to numerous cultural institutions. His works are on display at the Museo del Barro in Asunción and in art galleries throughout the country and he is featured in Esperanza, a documentary about art under the Stroessner dictatorship.

Orientation
Avenida Agustín Fernando de Pinedo is the main avenue and cuts the town in two, running north to south. The city spreads for about 25 blocks east to west until it reaches the river Paraguay. The city centre is a compact grid system very easy to walk. Presidente Franco is the main street running east to west and ending right at the port. Avenida Capitán Herminio Mendoza and Avenida Eligio Ayala are the other boundaries of the downtown area to the north and south respectively. When coming from Asunción via Route 5 you enter the city from the east on General Bernardino Caballero, which turns into Mariscal López after crossing the Avenida Agustín Fernando de Pinedo. The city centre, with the Municipalidad, the Cathedral and the Plaza Libertad, are all on this street, but most of the shops are on Presidente Franco, which is two blocks to the north. If coming through the Chaco you enter the city from the south after crossing the river Paraguay through the Nanawa bridge and passing by the new port to the left and the airport to the right.

Immigration office
Although Concepción is not a border town, there is an equipped to provide entry and exit stamps for those travelling independently along the Paraguay river. If you plan to continue from Bahia Negra to Brazil's Pantanal region it is possible to get your exit stamp in Concepción though there is an immigration office in Bahia Negra. If you are planning to cross over into Porto Murtinho, Mato Grosso do Sul, you can get exit stamp at Carmelo Peralta on the Paraguayan side of the border, however it may be easier to obtain it beforehand in Concepción.

By bus

 * Asunción – 05:00-23:15, every 1.5-2 hr. GS.120,000. Bus companies Nasa, La Concepcionera run their buses through the Transchaco highway. The bus journey takes 6 hr, depending on the route. La Santaniana (09:00, 11:30, 21:00, 23:30), La Sampedrana, Norte Poty, Canindeyú and La Ovetense run from Asunción along Route 3. This route is about 1-2 hr longer.
 * Pedro Juan Caballero – 06:00-16:00, every 1.5-2 hr. GS.60,000. Nasa and Cometa del Amambay take 4-5 hr for this trip.
 * Cerro Corá National Park – 06:00-16:00, every 1.5-2 hr. GS.30,000. Same buses as from/to Pedro Juan Caballero.
 * Vallemí – 08:00, 13:00 (further to Asunción), 18:00 from Vallemí, vis-versa similar. GS.50,000. 2-4 hr, depending on the season and the coffee break along the way.
 * Pozo Colorado – Frequent connections, see Asunción. GS.60,000-80,000. All buses from/to Asunción taking the western route also stop here.
 * Pozo Colorado – Frequent connections, see Asunción. GS.60,000-80,000. All buses from/to Asunción taking the western route also stop here.

By road
From Asunción there are two road alternatives to reach Concepción. Drivers can either head northeast along Route 3 past San Estanislao and turn west at Yby Yaú on Route 5 for a total distance of 460 km; or head northwest along the Transchaco Highway up to Pozo Colorado then turn east on Route "Coronel Rafael Franco" to Concepción travelling through the Chaco wilderness and crossing the Paraguay river through the Nanawa bridge for a total journey of 410 km.

Route 5 links Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero 215 km to the northeast at the border with Brazil.

Heading east is Route "Coronel Rafael Franco" that links Concepción to Pozo Colorado in the central Chaco where it joins the Transchaco Highway and continue northwest to reach the Mennonite colonies of Filadelfia, Loma Plata and Neuland which are 335 km away. This route offers the chance to watch birdlife and the wilderness of the Chaco. The Transchaco continues northwest, past Mariscal Estigarribia and reaches the Bolivia border after 630 km from Concepción.

By boat
The port is the departing/ending point of the weekly Aquidabán Cargo Ferry to/from Bahia Negra and another weekly cargo ferry to/from Fuerte Olimpo, as well as all towns and villages in between. The Aquidabán is a living relic of the river, and the only one of two commercial scheduled boats that remain to travel the Paraguay river. For more details on schedule and prices see Northern Paraneña.

By plane
The is to the south of the town on the road to the bridge. There is a once-a-week scheduled domestic flight to Asunción with Setam. This flight departs Asunción's Grupo Aerotáctico military airbase and makes a stopover in Concepción before continuing its route to Vallemí, Fuerte Olimpo and Bahía Negra, and then makes the flight back to Asunción stopping at the same places.

Get around
Mostly walking will be you preferred type of transport. You can however rent bicycles to explore the surrounding region, like Belén.

See

 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.
 * Other attractive italianate houses to see from the outside are the Mansión Isnardi, the Mansión Albertini, and the Villa Ida.

Local tours
The Asociación Cultural de la Villa Real is a non-profit cultural organization that organizes historic tours around Concepción from time to time, including guided visits to the local cemetery. Check their website for information on their activities.

Enjoying the river Paraguay
There is a public beach next to the port, very popular on weekends among locals. People come to sunbathing, swimming and fishing. The sunsets are beautiful.

Water taxis in the port can also be hired for a day trip to the mouth of the Ypané river. 8 km to the south, and along the Riacho Negro, the offshoot of the Paraguay river that runs along the other side of Chaco'í. Negotiate the price in advance and bring your own food and beverages.

Across the river is the island of Chaco'í, home to a handful of families. Most cross the river every day by row boat or motor boat to work in Concepción. Walking along the island's dirt roads you will see the quaint scenes of rural lifestyle typical throughout Paraguay, such as farm animals, crops, and a small church. The island is an interesting side trip away from the bustle of Conpceción's motorcycle clogged streets. Water taxis cross between Chaco'í and the port of Concepción at the end of Presidente Franco street. GS.5,000

The Yate Siete Cabrillas is a luxury charter yacht that offer customizable two to seven day trips along the Paraguay river. It departs from Concepción and goes all the way up to Bahia Negra and return. The cost includes full board and guides.

Excursions

 * To Belén: Belén can be visited as a short excursión from Concepción, as it is only 21 km to the southeast. Buses run from Concepción several times a day. The town is sited exactly on the Tropic of Capricorn where there is an allegorical monolith. Belén is the oldest town in the region and was founded in 1760 as a Jesuit Reduction. Lesser known than the other Jessuit towns of Misiones and Itapua in Sputhern Paraguay. The Reduction of Belén had little importance because it was founded shortly before the Expulsion of the Jesuits in 1768, so had little chance to establish itself, and also because it was an experimental venture among the warlike Mbaya indigenous, with none of the success of missions with the more pacific Guaraní. A couple of historians have written books about Belén, and this is the oldest settlement in the entire Northern Paraguay. There are a few sites for the visitor to see like the local church. The present school is an original Jessuit building. In the city centre streets one finds old houses of all sizes with the marked and characteristic colonial style, belonging to the most traditional families of the city, with pillars and galleries in the front.
 * To Loreto: driving north from Concepción on the route to Vallemí for 25 km there is the small town of Loreto, which was not a Reduction, although from its name it sounds as though it might have been. There are several buses per day, every hour or two, departing from the Concepción bus terminal. There is an attractive monument at the entrance of town, like a mini chapel in the middle of the road, blue and white with a tiny dome and cross. The local church is interesting to visit and has a 10 metre bell tower, modelled after the bell tower of the Yaguarón church but built in 2005.

Estancias
There are estancias around Concepción that welcome visitors. Always ring first to reserve and get instructions on how to get there. You may be able to travel by bus and be picked up at an agreed upon location.

The river Aquidabán, north of Concepción, has some of the finest beaches in the country, with big stretches of proper yellow sand, but the best the stream Tagatiyá, which is famous for its crystalline waters and colored little fish.


 * Estancia Ña Blanca: (+595 982 917792) 94 km from Concepción on the road to Vallemí in the district of San Alfredo. Is the closest estancia to the Tagatiyá stream. There are small waterfalls, crystal clear waters, beautiful scenery. Activities include snorkelling in the Tagatiyá, walking, camping. Also has rooms for guests. Visits only by prior reservation. The estancia is named after the owner, Ms. Blanca Ferreira de González.
 * Rancho JMC: (+595 983 776495) the easiest to get to, at Paso Horqueta, a little village on the Aquidabán river, 45 km from Concepción via Loreto, an hour journey on the bus that goes to Vallemí. There is a private beach on the Aquidabán where you can camp, ar you can stay at the house. It has 8 rooms for guests.
 * Estancia Primavera: (+595 331 242045 +595 971 247648) 46 km from Concepción, on the river Aquidabán. Simple place offering camping and two rooms for guests. Lovely isolated beaches. Off the beaten track and the access road is very bad. 4x4 needed, but they can pick you up in Concepción.

Festivals
The spotlight shines on Concepción during the yearly Festival del Río (river festival). During the festival there are a series of sporting events, making use of the city's riverfront, from triathlons to rowing competitions. At night crowds gather to enjoy traditional food and musical concerts and talent shows. Held in late February at the Port of Concepción.

As Concepción's economy is fueled by cattle ranching and meat processing. There is no better time to see the influence of the area´s cattle ranches than at the yearly Expo Norte fair held every September. There are rodeo shows, food and games, and a beauty pageant.

Buy
Most of the shops are on Presidente Franco and Mariscal Estigarribia. There is a craft shop called Ren Artesanía on Mariscal estigarribia and 14 de Mayo. It specialises on leather goods, sandals, clothing and guampas for tereré. Continuing calle Presidente Franco 100 m past Avenida Agusting Fernando de Pinedo to the west is the, a daily covered market with good fresh produce and fish. Interesting to explore.

There is a small but charming art gallery at the corner of Mariscal Estigarribia and General Garay called Arte Libre belonging to Mrs. Gladys Gaona, which also runs a fine arts atelier and where meetings of the local Reading Club of the city are also performed. In this place you will find works of famous Paraguayan artists such as Carlos Colombino, Emmanuel Fretes, Ricardo Migliorisi, Michael Burt, Felix Toranzos and Gladys Gaona herself. Everything on display is for sale.

Sleep
Concepción now offers a range of accommodations. There are several hotels in the historic center, including a hostel, while new establishments have opened in the outskirts of the city, in the vicinity of the port area where the commercial activity and the flow of businessmen is constant.

Budget

 * There are also various inexpensive hospedajes in Concepción. Check out the area around the bus terminal.
 * There are also various inexpensive hospedajes in Concepción. Check out the area around the bus terminal.

Connect

 * Most hotels offer Wi-Fi for guests.
 * Why not send a postcard from the beautiful post office building on Presidente Franco street?
 * The Concepción Noticias (http://www.concepcion-py.com/) is a good resource for current events.

Cope

 * 🇧🇷 Brazil

Go next
Concepción can be a good place to use as a base for visiting the northeast of Paraguay. There are national parks, touristic estancias, and some pretty small towns that are close and worth visiting. Additionally, independent travellers and backpackers continue to the Pantanal region of Bolivia and Brazil sailing up the Paraguay river by boat.


 * Vallemí - A riverside town at the top northwest corner of the Northern Paraneña. A cement producer town with more than 50 limestone caves to explore.
 * Pedro Juan Caballero - At the border with Brazil and an important commercial city with big shopping centers and duty free shops.