Compostela (Nayarit)

Compostela (Nayarit) is a small colonial-era city about 40 km inland from the Pacific Ocean in the Mexican state of Nayarit. The city is one of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos and its best feature is its large central town square (zocalo) next to its main church (Santiago Apostol).

Understand
The western regions of Nayarit were dominated by the Aztec (Mexica) at the time of the conquest, but they weren't the first people to live here. Historians aren't sure who the original inhabitants were, but a number of relics have been found in inland Pacific coastal areas, including a large number of ceramic figures found near Compostela. The figures date from over 2,000 years ago and are noted for having Asian facial features, giving them the popular name Chinesco. Chinesco figures are found in regional museums in Tepic, in several museums in Mexico City, and in art museums around the world.

In 1532, the town was founded as a Spanish settlement called Isabel de Avis. Eight years later, someone thought the place reminded them of a city in Spain called Santiago de Compostela, so the town was renamed Compostela. Pompous blowhard politicians later decided that the town should have a ridiculously ostenatious name that nobody would remember, so they gave it one. Unfortunately, it's so ridiculous and never, ever used, so there's no point in really mentioning it, especially since such trivia has no importance to travelers.

The town had a population just under 16,000 in 2000.

By bus
From Puerto Vallarta, take a local city bus to "WalMart" where all the local combis/colectivos pick up en route to the beach towns of Nayarit. Ask the guy with the clipboard which bus will take you to Rincon de Guayabitos and La Peñita de Jaltemba (two names for essentially the same place). In La Peñita de Jaltemba, you will change to a local bus operated by Autotransportes Compostela (white bus with the word "Compostela" on the side). The ride from Rincon de Guayabitos to Compostela takes just over an hour and tickets start at M$50.

From Tepic, the Autotransportes Compostela buses depart from the main bus station. Buses depart hourly for the 50-minute ride and tickets start at M$20.

By car
Compostela is 28 km due south of Tepic on federal highway MEX-200. The road is twisty in places and the ride will take about 50 minutes.

Festivals

 * Fiestas del Señor de la Misericordia - the town's patron saint is honored each year from November 22 through the first Friday in December. Events are held each day and include regional music, dancing, food, midway rides, carnival games and fireworks.

Buy
Locally made handcrafts include items (other than cigars) made from dried tobacco leaves. This is a great idea because after you sweep the floor with your tobacco broom you can smoke it.

Eat
Although emblematic of the state, istete is hard to find today, but you may find it in local markets or restaurants serving regional dishes. It is a sweet treat with a chewy texture and is made mostly of honey with flavors of chopped nuts, guava (guayaba), vanilla, strawberries and chocolate.



Go next

 * Ixtlán del Rio
 * Tepic
 * Chacala
 * La Peñita de Jaltemba