Cochabamba

Cochabamba, or simply Cocha is fourth largest city in central Bolivia, in a valley with the same name, in the Andes mountain range. Its name is from a compound of the Quechua words q'ucha, meaning "lake", and pampa, "open plain". It is known as the "City of Eternal Spring" and "The Garden City" because of its spring-like temperatures all year round. It is also known as La Llajta, which means "town" in Quechua.

Orientation
The main thoroughfare in Cochabamba is Avenida de las Heroinas, which runs east-west, with its north-south counterpart Avenida Ayacucho. The intersection of these two is known as El Correo (the post office is located on that intersection). Plaza 14 de Septiembre is considered the center of the city. Avenida Ballivian, commonly called El Prado, is a tree-lined boulevard running north from Plaza Colon, with many of the city's better restaurants and hotels nearby. Generally, neighborhoods get more affluent towards the north, and poorer to the south. Avenida América north of La Recoleta runs east to west is also a major avenue with many restaurants and shopping.

By bus
The terminal is some 10 blocks south of the center, just north of the market called La Cancha. From the north, you can catch several trufi lines to get to the bus terminal. For example, the green 101, the 102, the 103, the 109, all travel along Av. Ayacucho, passing the bus terminal. At the north end of the terminal, there are radio taxis associated with the terminal. These are much more convenient to get to your destination. If you are traveling with a lot of luggage, it is not recommended that you exit the main terminal to catch a bus. It's quite hectic making you an easier target for pickpocketing. It is also not recommended walking from the terminal especially late at night.

Most bus companies will charge around the same amount for a ticket, but there are different seat classes. Weirdly enough, even though it is a poor country, the amount of "leito" seats (aka cama) is far higher than that of semi-cama or regular seats.

Bus times are generally quite accurate, because the station is so busy that buses cannot wait forever at a platform. Arrive about 1 hr before the bus leaves to get the best price.

Always be aware of roadblocks while traveling in Bolivia. If companies know of existing roadblocks, many of them will halt their services, while others will take you as far as the roadblock, and you'll have to pay again after crossing the roadblock. It's always recommended to wait for a roadblock to be lifted before traveling, even if a bus will take you that far.

Destinations

 * From/to La Paz – It is at least eight hours by bus. Buses leave approximately every hour starting at 06:30, with the last bus leaving around 23:00. Regular seats tend to be at around Bs. 30, semi-camas typically will max out at Bs. 60., and camas will typically max out at Bs. 90.
 * From/to Santa Cruz – It is at least ten hours by bus, longer in the rainy season. Buses leave in the mornings and in the evenings, with the last bus typically leaving around 22:00. Regular seats tend to be at Bs. 40., semi-camas typically will be at Bs. 70., and camas will typically be at Bs. 110.
 * From/to Sucre – It is at least ten hours by bus. Buses only leave in the afternoons and evenings, with the last bus typically leaving between 21:00 and 22:00. Much of this road is unpaved, and it can be a quite uncomfortable and cold ride. Expect to pay maximum Bs. 60. for this trip.
 * From/to Oruro – It is a relatively quick four to five hours. Buses leave throughout the day and are relatively inexpensive. Bs. 20-30 will get you there on a semi-cama.
 * From/to Potosí – It is at least 10 hr by bus. Buses only leave in the evenings, with the last bus typically leaving between 20:00 and 21:00.
 * From Tupiza – At least three daily buses at 10:00, 18:30, and 21:00.
 * Other, less-frequented direct services: Buenos Aires, Iquique, Arica

If you're planning to go to any other cities not listed, it's typically advisable to not go directly from Cocha. Rather, first travel to one of the intermediary cities above and take another service once you arrive.

By plane
A taxi to the center of town from the airport ranges between Bs. 25-35 (approx. US$3.50-5.00) depending on the distance. When exiting the airport, there is a sign with the fixed costs depending on the boundaries. You may want to snap a picture of that sign in case the driver wants to charge you more. There is also a public bus "B" line that eventually makes it way to the center of town.

By bus
Cochabamba has buses (micros), mini-vans (trufis) and shared cabs (taxi-trufis) that run along fixed routes. There are no set stops and in order to get off, you must say "me bajo" (I want to get off) or "esquina" (for stop at the corner). Fares are Bs. 1.90. (Many drivers do not have adequate change, so do not be surprised if you do not receive change).

By taxi
Most cars honking at you are cabs. Ask and negotiate the fare before entering a cab. According to regulations that aren't very well publicized (some mentions in the local press), the price should be Bs. 6 for one person within the city center (inside the boundaries of the river). Crossing the bridges, adds another Bs. 2. Adding additional passengers should cost between Bs. 1 and Bs. 2/person. Downtown to Quillacollo is Bs. 25-30 There is no standard fare, and most taxi drivers will try to overcharge tourists.

If you are in a radio taxi (with a company logo on the side of the car), you can ask the driver to call into the dispatcher to quote you the official price. There is a municipal governmental toll-free phone number to report overcharging - 800-14-0201

It's recommended to take radio taxis in the evenings. There is no additional charge to call a taxi to come pick you up.

Sports

 * Cochabamba has two first division football teams, Jorge Wilstermann and Aurora, which play at Felix Capriles Stadium located on Avenida Libertador Bolívar (at the end of El Prado crossing the Cala Cala bridge). Matches usually take place on Sunday afternoons, as well as some weekday evenings. Matches rarely sell out, and one can buy a ticket the day of the game choosing among different seating sections. "Preferencia" is the most expensive, around Bs. 50-80 per match (depending on the rival), but for afternoon matches its location has the most shade. The supporter groups for Wilstermann are seated in the middle portion of both endzone (curvas).
 * The city is Bolivia's paragliding capital. Several agencies offer tandem flights (Bs. 300) and courses. A typical beginner´s course will take minimum 10 days (2 hours theory and 4 hours practice every day, 12 solo flights) and cost about Bs. 3,000. Among the cheapest on the continent.

Beyond the city
There are some towns and places around Cochabamba worth visiting and even several day excursions:


 * Punata – A market on Tuesday with a lot of indigenous people selling animals.
 * Tarata – Nice picturesque town that can make an easy day trip.
 * Quillacollo – Known for its Fiesta de la Virgen de Urkupiña (August 15).
 * Chapare Region – National Park Isiboro Sécure and local indigenous communities, you can stay with for several days.
 * Chapare Region – National Park Isiboro Sécure and local indigenous communities, you can stay with for several days.

Volunteer
Some organizations charge a fee for volunteer or intern to cover logistical and organizational costs. Please ask each organization for their policy.



Buy
One of the city's biggest attractions is La Cancha, the city market on the south side of town and the largest open-air market in South America. Clothing, food, souvenirs, or books, the Cancha has it all. The Cancha is generally bound in the area bound by: Av. Aroma, Av. Ayacucho, Av. 6 de Agosto, Av. República, and Av. Oquendo.

The best day to visit the market is on Saturday, on other days not all the shops are open. Pickpockets are fairly common in this area.

If you don't want to get knee-deep into the sprawling Cancha for your souvenirs, there is also a small pasaje behind the Post Office. You can enter from Av. Heroínas Avenue or Esteban Arze. Prices are comparable to La Cancha and you can pick up typical Cochabamba goods.


 * The Spitting Llama Bookstore & Outfitter, 615 Calle España Norte (between streets La Paz and Reza) offers offers a wide range of trekking, camping equipment and gear.

Eat
Lunchtime usually consists of a fixed menu at a number of restaurants or pensiones around time. The "almuerzo completo" consists of soup + main dish and often an appetizer and dessert. There are many options to find the menu displayed outside the door, usually consisting of your choice of two soups or 2-3 main dishes. This fixed menu varies in price depending on the part of town, and could run between Bs. 15-25.

Silpancho is traditional Bolivian dish that supposedly originates from Cochabamba.

Thanks to the city's origin as an agricultural center for mining communities, Cochabamba claims to have the best food in Bolivia.


 * Casa de Campo, Av. Uyuni 618, among other upscale restaurants in Recoleta. Large plates of food (even the half-plate was too much) and good pique macho and other local dishes. Price range is Bs. 37-50. Probably one of the best restaurants in town. Highly recommended.
 * Sucremanta, Several locations: Plaza 14 de Septiembre, and on the Prado. Small but filling menu, -somewhat spicey. The Plaza branch, with live piano music on Sundays, is a great place for brunch. Try the hearty menudito.
 * Dumbo, Av. Heroinas E-0354, also El Prado 55. Bolivia's favorite family restaurant. The main joint on Heroinas is always packed, with four dining floors and enough dancers in animal suits to keep the entire juvenile population of Cochabamba entertained.
 * Paprika, North American style dishes and internationalized Bolivian classics. Yummy hot wings. The restaurant has the air of a place for the "see and be seens" in Cochabamba. Recommended. Avenida Ramon Rivero, on the corner of Lanza. Open in the evenings.
 * Dumbo, Av. Heroinas E-0354, also El Prado 55. Bolivia's favorite family restaurant. The main joint on Heroinas is always packed, with four dining floors and enough dancers in animal suits to keep the entire juvenile population of Cochabamba entertained.
 * Paprika, North American style dishes and internationalized Bolivian classics. Yummy hot wings. The restaurant has the air of a place for the "see and be seens" in Cochabamba. Recommended. Avenida Ramon Rivero, on the corner of Lanza. Open in the evenings.
 * Paprika, North American style dishes and internationalized Bolivian classics. Yummy hot wings. The restaurant has the air of a place for the "see and be seens" in Cochabamba. Recommended. Avenida Ramon Rivero, on the corner of Lanza. Open in the evenings.
 * Paprika, North American style dishes and internationalized Bolivian classics. Yummy hot wings. The restaurant has the air of a place for the "see and be seens" in Cochabamba. Recommended. Avenida Ramon Rivero, on the corner of Lanza. Open in the evenings.

Vegetarian

 * Tulasi, Av. Heroinas 270, seemingly without regular opening times.
 * Gopal, Calle Espana, hot and cold buffet lunch Bs. 10-20, the homemade jugs of juice are delicious. Ordering off the menu is possible in the evening, but not as good. Beautiful open courtyard to sit in.
 * Copal, Calle España 250 (between Ecuador and Colombia) in the same courtyard as the Hostel Nawpa House

Drink
The best chicha, fermented corn (or peach) based beverage, is said to come from the Cochabamba region. The small town of Punata, some distance to the southwest, is especially well-known. Please note that not all chicherías have the same hygienic standards.

Most small bars are on 25 de Mayo and España close to Plaza Colon. Av. Ballivian (Prado) has bigger and noisier stuff. The joints grow fancier and more expensive has you head north into Recoleta, centred on Calle Pando.


 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.
 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.
 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.
 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.
 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.
 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.
 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.
 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.
 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.
 * Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well known by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.

Budget
There are dozens and dozens of hotels and hostales between the bus terminal and the center (Plaza 14 de Septiembre). This area is not very safe late at night, however, and these options should only really be considered if none of the above are available. Always take a cab back to these locations after dark.
 * Hostal Kanata, Ayacucho 941, has clean doubles for Bs. 60 (Bs. 20 more for a TV), though a not too friendly staff.
 * Hostal Kanata, Ayacucho 941, has clean doubles for Bs. 60 (Bs. 20 more for a TV), though a not too friendly staff.

Mid-range
The upper end hotels are mostly concentrated within a block or two from Plaza Colon. Expect to pay upwards of Bs. 200 for a single. Also many classy hotels in Recoleta.

Stay safe

 * Cars rarely give preference to pedestrians, even at crosswalks. Don't assume they will stop.
 * Roving gangs of supposed glue sniffers (cleferos) are known to attack and rob people, especially at night. Stay on streets with ample pedestrian traffic. They tend to hang out under the bridges at night and rob people crossing.
 * The hill of the Coronilla (behind the bus terminal) is particularly not safe because this is where many of them hang around and camp. Generally, anywhere south of Calle Aroma be very cautious.
 * Robbers also operate from cars, particularly cabs, late at night. Stay alert if one stops right in front of you. Cross the street!
 * When getting into a cab late at night, it is best to call a radio taxi which you can get from friends, a local family, or the hostal you are staying at. If you cannot call a mobile radio to pick you up, make sure to take a taxi with a company name on the side and remember that company in case anything happens so that you can report it to them. It is best to ask a hotel, restaurant, bar, or discoteca to call a taxi for you.
 * On the stairs of the hill Cerro de San Pedro have been robberies. The cable car provider uses it as an argument for you to use the cable car (Bs. 6.50). However, during the day it should be fine. At dusk and later, take a taxi or the teleferico (cable cars) to/from the top.
 * The plain-clothed police officer scam seems to be popular (but seldom) in Cochabamba. Read all about it under Bolivia and be aware.

Connect

 * If you have an unlocked phone, you can purchase an inexpensive SIM card from the three major telecoms, Tigo, Viva, Entel and top up as needed. All of have pre-paid data plans. You must register your SIM card with your passport.
 * There are fewer internet cafés than there were just 3-4 years ago due to the availability of mobile internet. The Punto Entel on the southeast corner of Heroinas and Ayacucho is probably the neatest and best equipped internet spot. The going rate is Bs. 2-3 an hour.
 * Calls to landlines in Europe and North America can be had as low as Bs. 0.50 a minute. Shop around!
 * The internet/callshop at Av. Heroinas E0151 (near the corner of Ayacucho) is good for Skype.

Cope

 * Laundry at Calle Junin, between Heroinas and Bolivar. Wash and Dry Bs. 7/kg. 08:00-12:00 & 14:00-19:00.
 * A few exchange bureaus at the SW corner of Plaza 14 de Septiembre.
 * Many street money changers are located near some bridges such as Cala Cala bridge, 25 de mayo and Sucre, and Plaza Colón. You'll get better rates than from banks, but also a little riskier. There are some money exchange businesses around the Plaza that are more reliable. Please note that some money changers on the street won't accept bills smaller than US$100 or will want to give you a less favorable exchange for US$20 or less.
 * For visa extensions, head to "Migración" located in the north part of Cochabamba at Av. J. Rodriguez between the streets Santa Cruz y Potosí (near Instituto Americano)
 * Many street money changers are located near some bridges such as Cala Cala bridge, 25 de mayo and Sucre, and Plaza Colón. You'll get better rates than from banks, but also a little riskier. There are some money exchange businesses around the Plaza that are more reliable. Please note that some money changers on the street won't accept bills smaller than US$100 or will want to give you a less favorable exchange for US$20 or less.
 * For visa extensions, head to "Migración" located in the north part of Cochabamba at Av. J. Rodriguez between the streets Santa Cruz y Potosí (near Instituto Americano)

Consulates
The Consulate of Paraguay is located at Calle Ismael Céspedes #007 between Tadeo Haenke and Mejillones, parallel to Avenida Beijing. The phone number is 442-5902, and has been confirmed as of August 2, 2010. Keep in mind that visa applications at this consulate take a week to get filled, because the forms must be sent off to La Paz.

Go next

 * Torotoro National Park – Popular with travellers that head to Cochabamba for its dinosaur foot prints, large cave and hiking opportunities. The (mini)buses leave hourly or when full (06:00-18:00, ) from the.
 * Iquique, Chile – There are direct buses, some with a transfer in Oruro. Keep in mind that the border to Chile opens at 08:00. So, it makes little sense to leave at 16:00 from Cochabamba. Waiting time at the border can extend this trip up to 23 hr(!). From Iquique you will have several connections to Santiago.