Cieszyn

Cieszyn is a town in the Silesian Voivodeship of southern Poland, with of population of 33,500 in 2021. It stands on the River Olza on the Czech border.

Český Těšín a short walk west is now a separate town in the Czech Republic.

Understand
Cieszyn historically straddled the River Olza but for over a century has been partitioned by the border. This region was under Hapsburg / Austrian rule until the end of the First World War, when Poland regained independence and the river became the border with Czechoslovakia. The two sides were forcibly re-united under Nazi occupation, but after the Second World War the border was restored. The Schengen Agreement has made this an open border, facilitating trade and transport with what is now the Czech Republic.

By train
From Katowice trains run every couple of hours via Tychy to Goleszów, heading for Wisła in the mountains. Change at Goleszów for the short branch line to Cieszyn, with a total journey of 1 hr 45 min.

Five trains a day are direct from Czechowice-Dziedzice on the line between Katowice and Bielsko-Biała, taking just over a hour. is north side of old town, with the bus station adjacent.

Trains run hourly from Frýdek-Místek in the Czech Republic via Dobratice pod Prasiv, Horni Tosanovice, Hnojnik and Ropice to Český Těšín, 40 min. Here they either terminate, or sit for 5-10 minutes before trundling across the border to Cieszyn. It's usually quicker to get off at Český Těšín and walk over the river bridge.

Trains also run every 30 min from Ostrava via Bohumin to Český Těšín, 35 min, and continue to various destinations including Kosice in Slovakia.

is on Nádražní in the centre of that town.

By bus
From Kraków Flixbus 1369 runs once in the evening, taking 3 hours via Katowice.

Wispol Bus 52 runs hourly from Koniaków via Wisła and Goleszów, taking an hour. Bus W3 runs every couple of hours from Szczyrk via Wisła.

Other buses from around the region are from Ustroń, Brenna and Strumień.

June-Aug Bus W1 runs three days a week from Kołobrzeg on the Baltic coast, taking 12 hours overnight via Poznań and Katowice.

Cieszyn bus station is next to the railway station.

Get around
The town sights are close enough to be reached on foot.

See

 * is the attractive town square, lined by fine houses and Ratusz the Town Hall.
 * Church of St Mary Magdalene is a short block south of Rynek on Plac Dominikański. It was built around 1300, and re-built in Baroque / classical style after the great city fire of 1789. Rulers of Cieszyn are interred in the crypt.
 * on Plac Kościelny is Lutheran. It was built 1710-30 with the tower added in 1750. It's usually open M Tu Th F.
 * is a bosky atmospheric place at Hażlaska 39. It began in 1647 as a private burial plot for the Singer family, then was expanded and made available to others. The New Jewish Cemetery 100 m up the street lacks ambience.
 * on Plac Kościelny is Lutheran. It was built 1710-30 with the tower added in 1750. It's usually open M Tu Th F.
 * is a bosky atmospheric place at Hażlaska 39. It began in 1647 as a private burial plot for the Singer family, then was expanded and made available to others. The New Jewish Cemetery 100 m up the street lacks ambience.
 * is a bosky atmospheric place at Hażlaska 39. It began in 1647 as a private burial plot for the Singer family, then was expanded and made available to others. The New Jewish Cemetery 100 m up the street lacks ambience.

Do

 * Film on the Border is a film festival in April, showing mostly Polish, Czech and Slovak work.
 * No Border Festival is held between the twin towns over a week in early October.
 * No Border Festival is held between the twin towns over a week in early October.

Buy
Several convenience stores near Rynek, including two branches of Żabka open M-Sa 06:00-23:00, Su 09:00-21:00.

Eat

 * Places around Rynek include Lavash Bistro, Bazylia Pizza, Limonka, Kuma Sushi, Kamienica Konczakowskich, Mare Fuori and Winowajcy.

Drink

 * Pubs around Rynek include Starówka, Nie ma problema, and Chill Island.

Connect
As of July 2024, Cieszyn and its approach highways have 4G from all Polish carriers, and 5G from Czech carriers.

Go next

 * Bielsko-Biała 40 km north is a resort town which like Cieszyn was once divided by a border, hence the double name.
 * Nearby mountain resorts are Szczyrk, Wisła and Ustroń.
 * Ostrava is a sprawling modern city in the Czech Republic, but with an attractive old centre.