Ciénaga

Ciénaga is a mid-size port city on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. With a population of 110,000 (2020), it is the second largest city in Magdalena Department. The city is a popular stop-over point for travelers en route between Barranquilla and Santa Marta.

Understand
Ciénaga has been designated by the Colombian government as a Pueblo Patrimonio (heritage town) in recognition of its historical and cultural value. It is a clean, bright city that was featured in Gabriel Garcia Marquez novels, including 100 Years of Solitude. Local night spots often ring out with the lively sounds of vallenato music.

History
Cienaga is an old city that was originally settled by the Chimila people. The first Spanish invaders arrived in 1518 but didn't set down roots until 1529 when Fray Tomas Ortiz described the city as having a large population and being located near the Laguna Grande (Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta), about 8 leagues from Santa Marta.

Cienaga was the site of a battle in Colombia's War of Independence from Spain on November 10, 1820, resulting in 940 deaths.

The town was the site of a brutal military crackdown on striking laborers who were protesting inhumane working conditions forced on workers by the United Fruit Company. At the behest of the company and U.S. politicians, the Colombian army entered the town and on December 5 and 6, 1928, opened fire on workers, murdering as many as 2,000 workers. In a government coverup, with the complicity of the U.S. government, military leaders tried to play down the violence, claiming that only 47 people were killed.

Get in
From Barranquilla, it is 2 hours by bus to Cienega. Expreso Brasilia has buses departing at least hourly throughout the day. Prices start at COP$20,000 (June 2023).



Go next

 * Santa Marta
 * Barranquilla