Chiang Mai



Chiang Mai (เชียงใหม่) is the hub of northern Thailand. With a population of over 127,000 registered residents in the city municipality (as of 2016), and 1.2 million in the urban city area as of 2022, it is Thailand's second-largest city. On a plain at an elevation of 316 m, surrounded by mountains and lush countryside, it is much greener and quieter than the capital and has a cosmopolitan air and a significant expatriate population, all factors which have led many from Bangkok to settle permanently in this "rose of the north".

Understand
Founded in 1296 CE, Chiang Mai is a culturally and historically interesting city, at one time the capital of the ancient Lanna kingdom. In the rolling foothills of the Himalayas 700 km north of Bangkok, until the 1920s it could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant trek. This isolation helped preserve Chiang Mai's distinctive charm, which remains intact.

Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city ("city" is chiang in the northern Thai dialect while mai is "new", hence Chiang Mai translates as "new city"). Sections of the wall dating to their restoration a few decades ago remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains.

Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more than 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality, in a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan, and Lanna Thai styles, decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most famous is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city from a mountainside 13 km away.

Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east to the banks of the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where Changklan Rd, the famous Night Bazaar, and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guest houses are located. Loi Kroh Rd (ถนนลอยเคราะห์) is the centre of the city's (tourist) night life.

Locals say you've not experienced Chiang Mai until you've seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of kao soi and purchased an umbrella from Bo Sang. Of course this is touristic blather, but kao soi, Bo Sang umbrellas and Doi Suthep are important cultural icons for the locals.

Orientation
Chiang Mai's most salient physical feature is the moat and the remains of the wall surrounding the old city. About 6.5 km in circumference, it is the reference point for navigating around the city.

The east and west halves of the old city each have their own character. The east side has the highest concentration of guesthouses, restaurants, motorbike rental shops, travel agencies, and other tourist-oriented services. In particular, the northeast corner is a warren of guesthouses, restaurants, massage parlours, and other businesses catering to visitors. The western half is more Thai, with a school for the blind, a coffin shop, the Chiang Mai branch of Thailand's National Library and five or six mostly table-top barbecue restaurants (หมูกระทะ mǔu grà~​tá) almost always packed with Thai customers.

Clockwise from 12 o'clock (north), the main features of the moat and its environs areː



Climate
Chiang Mai's northern location and moderate elevation results in the city having a more temperate climate than that of the south.

As in the rest of Thailand there are three distinct seasons:
 * A cool season from Nov-Feb.
 * A hot season from Mar-Jun.
 * A wet season from Jul-Oct.

By plane
The route from Bangkok is one of the busiest in the country (Thai Airways flies daily almost every hour, with additional flights in the peak tourist season). Other airlines operating direct services to Chiang Mai include:

International

 * Air Asia flies from Kuala Lumpur
 * Asiana - from Seoul
 * HK Express - from Hong Kong (From Dec 2022)
 * China Airlines - from Taipei, Taiwan
 * EVA Air - from Taipei (from Jan 2023)
 * Hainan Airlines - from Shenzhen
 * JC International Airlines - From Phnom Penh
 * Jeju Air - from Seoul
 * Jin Air - from Seoul (from Dec 2022)
 * Juneyao Airlines - from Chengdu & Shanghai
 * Korean Airlines - Four flights weekly from Seoul/Inchon
 * Lao Airlines - from Luang Prabang in Laos — the flight originates in Vientiane
 * Lucky Air - from Kunming
 * Myanmar National Airlines - from Yangon
 * Ruili Airlines - from Kunming & Xishuangbanna
 * Scoot - from Singapore
 * Spring Airlines - from Guangzhou & Shanghai
 * Thai Airways - doesn't have direct international flights, but has many connections via Bangkok; if you arrive to/depart from Thailand on their flight, it's wise to check the through fare from Chiang Mai, as it often will cost just several hundred baht more (yet slightly more if stopping over in Bangkok for a few days or departing from another airport).
 * VietJet Air - from Ho Chi Minh City

The airport is 3 km southwest of the city centre, 10–15 minutes away by car. Registered airport taxis charge a flat 150 baht for up to 5 passengers anywhere in the city. Uber charges the same flat fare if going from/to the airport. If you take a metered taxi, there is a starting fee plus a service fee from the Meter Taxi counter. The taxis operate from the exit at the north end of the terminal, after baggage claim and/or customs, walk into the reception hall and turn left. The airport has a shuttle minibus service available, offering drop-off to any hotel in the city for a flat fee of 40 baht (July 2015) - perfect if you're arriving alone and don't mind waiting 10-15 minutes for a few fellow passengers. The minibus counter is at the southern end of the terminal, near the International arrivals. Alternatively, take Bus 4 to the city centre, or charter a tuk-tuk or songthaew (if alone, negotiate with a songthaew driver who already has a few passengers). Most hotels and some upmarket guest houses offer cheap or free pick-up/drop-off services.

There are numerous ATMs and exchange offices of several banks in the main airport hall, which is very long and combines both international and domestic arrival and check-in booths on one floor - but you'll need to take an elevator to the second floor once you've checked in, and that's where you won't find neither exchanges nor ATMs. The exchange rate, while not terrible, may be not as good as you can find in town.

Bus stations
Chiang Mai has two official bus stations, consisting of four bus terminals:


 * The Arcade Bus "Station" is a mess, with no obvious order to the layout. There are ticket offices in both terminals. Further complicating the confusion, behind Terminal 2, Nakhonchai Air has a separate terminal. If you walk from the front to the rear of the Terminal 2 building, you will see a big "Nakhonchai Air" sign. Keep walking, and cross the parking lot to the rear, you will come upon it. The terminal is normally hidden from view by out-of-service buses.


 * Terminal 2 has a tourist police office, ATMs, food vendors, and many ticket sellers, including the booking office for BKS government buses. Buses depart from here for Bangkok, Phitsanulok, Udon. There seems to be no logic as to what buses go to which destination from which terminal and there is a good deal of overlap.


 * Terminal 3 is the larger and newer of the two. It has an air-conditioned waiting room with Internet cafe upstairs, small food vendors, ATMs, the booking window for Green Bus (Window 20), and numerous other ticket sellers. Buses for Bangkok, Phitsanulok, Ubon, Korat, Nan, Hua Hin, Luang Prabang, Mae Sot depart from here.



In effect, there is a fifth bus terminal if you count songthaews as buses. From the Warorot Market, songthaews depart for a variety of locations within a radius of about 50 km, such as Samoeng. The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common are red songthaews (hence the alternative name of rot daeng, or "red car", which roam the main streets in the city. Warorot Market (west bank of the Ping River) is the most common terminus for songthaews that travel along fixed routes. From Warorot Market, white songthaews travel to the eastern suburban town of San Kampaeng, yellow songthaews travel to Mae Rim and Samoeng in the north, blue songthaews travel to Sarapee and Lamphun in the south, and green songthaews travel to Mae Jo to the northeast. The songthaews line up along the road that is parallel the Ping River, between it and the market. Destinations are posted on round, yellow signs but are only in Thai.

From Bangkok
A variety of daily buses leave frequently from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit), offering varying choices of price, comfort and speed.


 * Rattling government buses make frequent stops at every minor township. The journey takes around 12 hr. Staff at Mo Chit station and elsewhere in Bangkok may deny these buses exist, or claim the price is the same as the 1st class busses.
 * Non-stop 24/32-seaters and 1st class buses such as Nakhonchai Air provide larger seats and snacks; making the long trip more comfortable. They manage the trip in around 9 hours and it costs around 488-550 baht. Be cautious about the so-called "VIP" buses touted on Khao San Rd. They may be cheaper, but you may end up crammed into a 2nd class bus or worse.

At Arcade Bus Station, where you'll arrive there is a public mini bus that runs from Arcadia bus station to the center of town (old town), it leaves from the road between the two arcadia terminal buildings and costs 15 baht. This will likely work out cheaper for tourists than the red songhaews and is less hassle; however staff staff will only direct you to the songthaews.

There are also songthaews that wait nearer Terminal 3, adjacent to the road that bisects the two terminals. Look for local people getting into them, and ask the driver if he goes to your destination (if the songthaew is empty, don't forget to confirm the price). You can take a shared trip to Tha Phae Gate (south edge of the old town), though you may have to wait for a driver who agrees. Virtually all songthaews will pass Warorot Market (city centre, just after crossing the river), from where it's just 1 km walk to Tha Phae Gate, or numerous (see "Get around" section) songthaews to other areas.

Drivers will approach you once you've arrived and will ask as much as 100-200 baht to the city centre/Tha Phae Gate, showing you a bogus price list with "fixed" prices. Bargain: it's just 5–6 km, so the fair price for tuk-tuk there is 50-60 baht, and is not more than 100-120 baht even to the opposite side of the city. It may be difficult to bargain with these drivers, however. A good idea is to ignore them from the start, walk out to the nearby street, and catch a passing tuk-tuk/songthaew there. If your luggage is light, you can walk to the centre, but it's quite a long (1 hour or more) walk, as the Arcade bus station is located in the city's northeast outskirts. Nowadays, you can also use Uber app for a cheap yet comfortable ride - a trip to the old city area will likely cost 45-70 baht, but be sure to pinpoint your location really well, so the driver could find you, as the bus station area is quite large.

From Hua Hin
Buses depart the Hua Hin BKS Station at 08:00, 17:00, and 18:00 for Chiang Mai, 12.5 hr.

From Pattaya
Buses depart the Nakhonchai Air Terminal in Pattaya (Sukhumvit Rd) for Chiang Mai several times during the day. Last bus about 21:00. Travel time is about 11 hr, with no stops longer than 5 min. Buses to Pattaya from Chiang Mai leave the Nakhonchai Air Terminal at Arcade Station daily on roughly the same schedule.

From Phuket
There is one daily direct Green Bus service from Chiang Mai's Arcade Terminal 3 to Phuket Terminal 2 and back. Cost is 1,646 baht (Dec 2017), tickets can be purchased online on their website. This trip is a killer: close to 24 hours on the bus! Although the bus is a state-of-the-art Sunlong vehicle and the seats are great (VIP24 bus: three business class-like seats in a row, with a video entertainment system - the movies are mostly in Thai however, with some limited English selection), this is simply too long time to be on a bus. If flying is not an option, definitely it's better to break your trip into two parts by stopping for at least one night in Bangkok (going from/to Chiang Mai by sleeper train preferably) or another city roughly in the middle, like Hua Hin.

From Udon Thani
From Udon to Chiang Mai: Phetprasert Bus Company has three buses a day depart from in front of the Central Festival Shopping Mall. Depart Udon/arrive Chiang Mai times are: 17:45-05:25; 18:45-06:25; and 20:45-06:40. Fare is about 636 baht (Apr 2015). Buy your ticket at the Phetprasert ticket counter in the downtown bus station, a 5 min walk from Central Festival. There is an inconvenient out-of-town bus terminal that may have more buses to Chiang Mai.

From Chiang Mai to Udon: Phetprasert Buses leave Chiang Mai/arrive Udon at: 14:30-02:15; 17:30-05:15; and 19:30-05:30. Buses arrive at the Central Festival Shopping Mall, a convenient location 5 minutes from the downtown bus station. Fare is about 636 baht (Apr 2015). Buy your ticket at the Phetprasert ticket counter in Arcade Terminal 2. Buses depart from Arcade Terminal 3.

By train
Services from Bangkok leave on a regular daily schedule and take 12–15 hours to reach Chiang Mai. If you go by night train (recommended), take one that arrives late in the morning so you can observe some northern Thailand scenery: bridges and forests; villages and fields.

Daytime services leave at 08:30, and 14:30 with second-class and third-class carriages. The seats in each class differ in softness and width, and can become uncomfortable after 10+ hours. 3rd class costs 231 baht, 2nd class is 391 baht, and 2nd class with air conditioning costs 641 baht (April 2022).

Overnight sleepers provide comfortable bunks with clean sheets and pillows in first- and second-class. First-class beds are in private two-bed compartments. They cost 1253 or 1453 baht for a top bunk, and 1453 or 1653 baht for a bottom bunk (April 2022). In second-class, the carriages are open but each bunk has a curtain for privacy. The top bunks are slightly claustrophobic as they lack a window, but they are cheaper for this reason. Air conditioned 2nd class top bunks cost 771 or 941 baht, bottom bunks cost 841 or 1041 baht (April 2022), depending on the train. First-class always has air-con, second class sometimes has air-con, depending on the train. There are usually four trains per day with sleeper accommodation, though only two of these will have first-class compartments. Station staff will be able to help you.

Carriages are kept clean; the toilet and floors are regularly mopped during the journey. Vendors make regular rounds selling snacks, drinks, and lackluster meals at inflated prices. You are also free to hop off quickly at stations to make a purchase (or order through your window) or bring your own food and drink.

In second-class, the bunks are folded away leaving pairs of facing seats. At some point in the evening, or on request, they are flipped down into bunks and made up into beds. In first-class, the bottom bunk is used as a bench seat before having a futon mattress placed on top in the evening.

If you're not in the mood for bed when your carriage mates are bedding down, you can head off to the dining car, which provides fairly good food and drink at reasonable prices. Later in the night, the dining car can be converted into a disco, complete with loud music and flashing lights.

Tickets can be bought up to 60 days in advance at any station in Thailand. Booking in advance is advised, especially for the popular 2nd-class overnight sleepers. Larger stations accept payment with Visa and MasterCard. This is fairly safe, as SRT is a state-owned company. If you are not yet in Thailand, the SRT D-Ticketing website will let you buy and print an e-ticket. Some find it tricky to register. You have to avoid any special characters while filling the registration form. You must book at least three days in advance, and you can only purchase 1st and 2nd class air-con sleeper tickets which are more expensive than fan-only car tickets. The price on-line is the same as at the ticket office. There is also an official SRT D-Ticket app on the Apple App Store and the Google Play Store. Various travel agencies, some available to contact from outside Thailand, can also procure tickets for delivery or pick up. 12go is a poopular choice for this.

You can transport a bicycle between Bangkok and Chiang Mai on the train for an extra fee. It will go in the cargo area.

Many songthaews and tuk-tuks await each train's arrival. If you want to walk, exit the station, cross the open square in front and turn left on the first major road you come to (Charoen Muang Rd); this road goes directly to city centre.

By bus
Chiang Mai finally has a limited bus service, not without the opposition of the songhthaew (see below) and tuk tuk drivers. The buses are air-conditioned and follow one of a few routes; see CM Transit application for real time tracking, or this guide, to plan your trip. There are just a few routes so far, but they quite fit the average traveler's needs, including from/to the airport. The ticket is 20 baht, pay in cash to the driver or else Rabbit card from Bangkok is also accepted. For those wishing to travel really hard, there's a Tourist card - 180 baht per day or 400 baht per 3 days unlimited trips.

By songthaew


The traditional way of getting around the city is by songthaew (สองแถว) which serve as buses and taxis. These covered pick-up trucks have two long bench seats in the back (songthaew means "two rows" in Thai), the seats are shared by multiple passengers and the songthaews stop en route to pick up other passengers who are going the same way.

The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common by far are red songthaews (called rot daeng, red truck), which don't follow a specific route and roam the main streets around markets, temples, or the bus/train stations. These are the most convenient to take if you are going somewhere specific. Prices are fixed to 30 baht inside the city walls but the price must be negotiated outside the city walls, but expect to pay upwards of 40 baht outside. During peak season these prices can increase to 40 baht within the city walls and up to 200 baht outside - again, that's how much a tourist would pay. Because of the city's somewhat irrational road design, especially inside the old walls, the driver may be forced to take a circuitous route to get to a nearby destination, but it will make no difference to the fare.

Since mid 2017 songthaews have a sign stating "30 BAHT/PERSON" above the windows of the car. However this is not a translation of the entire Thai text. It turns out to be the maximum, when reading the entire line. A second line, that is below the windows, gives the area for this tariffs: within the 2nd ringroad. Keep this in mind when you have to negotiate.

To catch a songthaew approach a waiting driver or flag one down on the street, state your destination and if the driver is going that direction he will nod in agreement and give you a price. Negotiate a lower fare if you wish. The price agreed to should be per person. It's a good idea to confirm this with the driver before you leave. On reaching your destination, ring the buzzer on the roof to tell the driver to stop. The driver will pull over, wait for you to get out and pay.

Songthaews not orbiting on a fixed-route can be hired outright, just as if they were a taxi. Negotiate a price before departure.

Fixed route songthaews
Fare is dependent on distance.

By tuk-tuk or samlor
Tuk-tuks are a quick, though noisy way to get around. Good luck if you can bargain for anything less than 100 baht even for a few kilometers, as they would rather wait for another clueless tourist more likely. Many expatriates and long-term tourists tend to ignore tuk-tuks completely unless absolutely necessary, and use alternate modes of transportation like a motorbike or Grab ride-hailing app. Even Thai people are complaining about tuk-tuks asking them more than double than they used to pay several years ago. Tuk-tuks at the bus/train station will ask even more like 200 baht if not more, and may refuse to bargain - just walk away to the nearest road and stop a songthaew (note that some of them will also quote a "taxi" price when they see a foreigner) there, or, better, install a Grab app and go by an air-conditioned car for a fraction of the tuk-tuk price. A good rule of thumb is that unfair drivers will seek you out, but you have to seek out the drivers who will give you a fair price.

A few samlors (three-wheeled bicycles) still cruise the streets and will happily take you to a temple for the same price as a tuk-tuk, though at a considerably quieter and slower pace.

By e-hailing
Uber in Thailand was taken over by their rival Grab in April 2018, so until any competitor emerges, Grab is the only option in the city for that service, with somewhat higher fares. Regardless, Grab is usually (except the periods of exceptionally high demand like during Songkran, New Year, etc.) cheaper than a tuk-tuk even after haggling, with the added benefit of cashless payment and the comfort of a private car. For the airport rides they charge a significant premium (such as 180 baht compared to 70 baht to the nearby Central Airport Plaza), but most rides within the city (including the train and bus stations) will cost around 60-80 baht for a few kilometers.

You can also call a regular metered taxi using the Grab app (look for a GrabTaxi service), which will give you a fare estimate to compare with their main GrabCar service (where you will pay exactly what you see on the screen). At the end of a GrabTaxi trip, you'll pay what the meter shows plus a booking fee (30 baht), either in cash or debited from your credit card by the Grab service.

By taxi
Chiang Mai has metered taxis, although not as many as tuk-tuks and songthaews. The "flag fall" is for the first 2 km, then per kilometre after that. Journeys longer than 12 km can be negotiated. This fare structure applies to all metered taxis in Chiang Mai Province.

You cannot generally hail taxis in the street. To book a taxi, call +66 53–279291, state your destination and the call centre will give you a quote. Or contact individual drivers via the mobile phone numbers displayed on their vehicles.

By motorbike or motorcycle
A motorbike is a convenient and cheap way to get around the city or reach the outlying sights. There is an abundance of near indistinguishable rental companies in the city, though most guesthouses can arrange rentals as well. 100 cc and 125 cc machines with automatic transmissions capable of carrying two people are the easiest to jump on and ride away if you don't have driving experience. A scooter or moped, such as the Honda Click, is the most convenient as it can carry bags on the floorboard and smaller items underneath the seat. Off-road bikes and larger street bikes are also an option. An international driver's licence is legally required, but the rental shops don't ask to see it, not even your national driver's permit.

You get the required helmet(s) and an anti-theft chain (not for scooters). Larger machines cost more for a V-twin or larger sport-bike. Expect discounts when renting for a week, month or longer.

Renting will require a deposit, and while many companies ask for a passport, you should under no circumstances leave your passport with anyone as collateral. However, most shops will accept a photocopy with a cash deposit. While the petrol/gas tank may be full on pickup, it is not uncommon for shops to deliver a bike with just enough fuel to go make it to a service station. They may siphon the remainder off when you return it so the next person is forced to do the same. In any case, return the bike with as much or more fuel than received to avoid any penalties. Also check the mechanical condition of the bike offered. Focus especially on the brakes: the degree of "pull" needed for the brake levers and the travel required by the foot brake. Check that turn indicators and headlights work properly, and that the tyres are reasonably OK. Make photos of the bike as documentation of pre-existing damages.

Some rental agreements claim to insure you, but generally only cover the bike for theft or damage. Don't expect much compensation in the event of an accident. And irrespective of who is at fault, assume that you will be the one blamed.

Chiang Mai traffic police are fond of setting up checkpoints to stop motorcyclists. These invariably happen during business hours. If you or your passenger are without a helmet, you will be stopped. If you do have a helmet, you may be stopped anyway, to check your licence and registration. If you are fined, this is a smooth process which typically takes less than 5 minutes: e.g., if you present a foreign driver's license, you fined only 500 baht. You can pay on the spot and continue driving afterwards. If you are stopped again, showing the receipt may exempt you from being fined again.

The regular checkpoints change from time to time. The second half of 2019 they are:

By bicycle
Traffic inside the old city walls is subdued enough to make biking a safe and quick way to get around. Bike rentals are plentiful; rental costs depending on the bike quality.

By car
Car hire services are available at the airport and throughout the city. Cars typically offered include the Toyota Vios, Altis, and Yaris, and the Honda City and Jazz. Expect a slight discount when renting weekly. Many places offer minivans such as 10-seat Toyota Commuters with a driver. Older Suzuki Caribbean 4WDs are a cheaper option, but they are relatively difficult to drive and less mechanically reliable than a standard passenger car.

All the multi-national rental companies are present in Chiang Mai. One local car rental company is:



Hiring a car or minivan with driver is a great option for travelling to places outside the city, and the price is often similar to hiring a car and driving yourself. You'll also be able to relax and enjoy the scenery in air-conditioned comfort. When booked a car with a driver, he or she will typically pick you up with a full tank of fuel and you pay at the end. Most hotels and some guesthouses can arrange it for you, in addition to vehicle rental outlets, and the many travel agencies in the city.

On foot
The old city moat is only about 1.6 km on a side, and as such is easy to walk around. The airport is also quite close to the old part of the city, about 2.5 km, so if you have the energy and an hour to spare, you can even walk to and from the airport. This is not necessarily a pleasant experience as the sidewalks are uneven (or non-existent) and Chiang Mai gets hot during the day, especially during the hot season, and rainy during the rainy season. The cost of a taxi or songthaew from the moat area to the airport is around 150 baht.

Outside the old city walls

 * In the vicinity there are several other attractions you may want to consider visiting. The are 4 km further along the road from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, with a reasonably easy walk along the meter-wide road shoulder. Or you can get a shared songthaew from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep for 30 baht, but you may have to wait until it fills up. Further along the road is a hill tribe village, and although tourist-oriented, is really worth the trip. There are many shops for local handicrafts, etc. These are the people from the far north of the country, many originally from Myanmar. There are two areas in the village that require entrance fee: 10 baht to enter a flower garden (where women can take pictures using traditional clothes) and a hill tribe opium museum (the museum is in a very poor condition); and 10 baht to enter the hill tribe waterfall (man-made). [[Image:ChiangMaiHilltribeMarket.jpg|thumb|Market in the hill tribe village]]
 * Getting there is a source of much consternation to many travelers. Clearly marked songthaews leave from Pratu Chang Phuak, next to the 7-Eleven. Prices are listed as 60 baht up and 60 baht down. The drivers wait until they have sufficient (Minimum of 10) passengers before they depart, potentially making for a lengthy wait. The driver may offer to leave without the minimum number of people if the current passengers are willing to pay a bit extra. Most guidebooks advise taking a songthaew from Mani Nopharat Rd, resulting in the drivers milking the tourist cash-cow and raising their price from a reasonable 60 baht to a ludicrous 500 baht.
 * Another option is to take a songthaew from your hotel to the northern gate of Chiang Mai University for 20 baht (if you are close to the city walls), where there will be several songthaews waiting on Huai Kaew Rd to get a full load of passengers for a trip up the mountain. They seem to congregate around the Chiang Mai Zoo, so if you just say "zoo" to the driver he will know what you're talking about. Prices range from 40 baht for a one-way trip to Wat Prathat to 180 baht for a full round-trip tour, including the temple, Bhubing Palace Gardens, and the hill tribe village, with an hour at each location, but you may have to wait until there are sufficient people who want the same tour or be prepared to pay more. You can also get between many of these by buying point-to-point tickets at the time you want them, or walking some segment. Any songthaew up the mountain road may be a trial for those prone to motion-sickness, so take appropriate precautions. Also, there may be several little annoying additional costs foreigners. To enter the Doi Suthep is free for Thais, and 30 baht for foreigners. Tour operators will ask 700 baht for a tour.
 * The journey from the city can be made by motorcycle or a bicycle (with appropriate gearing). The final 12 km from the zoo onwards is entirely uphill and will take 60-90 minutes if bicycling.
 * The journey from the city can be made by motorcycle or a bicycle (with appropriate gearing). The final 12 km from the zoo onwards is entirely uphill and will take 60-90 minutes if bicycling.

Cinema






Festivals & exhibitions














Hiking and other activities
While it is probably possible to do alone, there are several companies along the main road who organize 2-3 day long hiking trips. The prices are mostly similar (except when you book at the hotel of course), just stroll along the main square road. Multiple offices often share bookings with the same companies and thus the program is usually similar too - but different packages exist, depending on price and duration. The program consists of something like minivan pick-up and drop-off, light hiking with a guide, sleeping-over in a hill village, visiting some hill tribe and elephant zoo, rafting. Some basic food should be included too (ask to be sure), and it should be possible to leave the bags at the "booking office".

Motorcycling

 * Motorcycle touring is a great way to explore northern Thailand. One good day trip out of Chiang Mai is up and over Doi Suthep, which will take you up to Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, and beyond the mountain to the reservoir. A perennial favourite among bicyclists and motorcyclists is the Samoeng Loop, a 100 km circuit into the mountains and back to Chiang Mai.
 * Motor-scooter touring as far as Mae Hong Son and suitable for the less experienced motorcyclist.

Muay Thai (boxing)
After football, Thai boxing is the national sport of Thailand. It can be seen in three different "stadia", in reality more like boxing rings in warehouses.



Rafting
Raft trips down the Mae Tang River are offered by several companies and can often be combined with elephant riding or mountain biking. During the dry season (Jan-Feb) water levels are relatively low with only grade 2-3 rapids, but during the rainy season (Jun-Oct) higher water levels make for a more exciting grade 4-5 trip.



Swim
Chiang Mai swimming pools open to the public vary in quality, cleanliness, and accessibility. On balance, those pools which are operated to internationally recognised standards of water quality are those which are privately owned by foreign investors.



Theatre
Miracle Cabaret Chiang Mai

Buy
Chiang Mai is a great place to shop. Sprawling markets during the day and night carry items from cheap trinkets to skillfully made local crafts.

Local products

 * Furniture and woodcarvings: Major woods and materials include teak, rosewood, and rattan. Items may be unadorned or, especially with teak and rosewood, carved in traditional or modern designs. Woodcarving is a traditional northern Thai art featured in numerous temples. In the 2010s, woodcarving increasingly embellished furniture, gracing screens, chairs, tables, beds, figurines, carved elephants.
 * Gold plated orchids and butterflies: Orchids and butterflies are preserved and plated with 24-carat gold to create unusual gift items such as necklace pendants, hairpins, and earrings.
 * Hill tribe products: These include silver ornaments, bracelets, necklaces, pendants, and pipes of intricate design, and embroidered items including tunics, jackets, bags, purses, caps, and dresses.
 * Lacquer ware: Made of wood, bamboo, metal, paper, and baked clay, in the form of receptacles, ornaments, and various souvenirs.
 * Pottery: Products include high-fired Celadon which is produced in many forms, including dinner sets, lamp bases, and decorative items.
 * Sa (mulberry) paper products: Sa products that come in different, distinctive designs include cards, notebooks, stationery, boxes, bags, photo frames, lanterns, gift wrapping paper.
 * Silverware: Traditional skills and a guaranteed content of at least 92.5% pure silver invest bowls, receptacles, and decorative items.
 * Umbrellas and parasols: These are inextricably associated with Bo Sang where villagers have been engaged in their manufacture for at least 200 years. All materials, silks, cottons, Sa paper (manufactured from the bark of the mulberry tree), and bamboo are produced or found locally.

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Eat


Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat noodles in curry broth, traditionally served with chicken (kai) or beef (nuea), but available some places as vegetarian or with seafood. Another local specialty is hang ley, Lanna-style pork curry. The area is also a home to a type of pork sausage called sai ua, which is favoured using chilli and various Thai herbs such as lemongrass, galangal and Kaffir lime. For those tired of eating rice or noodles there's also a wide range of excellent international food restaurants, from cheap hamburger stands to elaborate Italian restaurants.

When you come to Chiang Mai you should try a khantoke dinner and show. Although these are just for tourists it is still a nice way to spend an evening. The first khantoke dinner was held in 1953 by Professor Kraisi Nimanhemin who wanted to host a special event for 2 friends leaving Chiang Mai. Two more such dinners were held, both in 1953, thus "khantoke" dinners are not "historic", but rather a relatively recent invention. Khantoke literally means small bowl, low table (khan = small bowl. tok = low table) There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting.

The range and value of Western food in Chiang Mai is unsurpassed in Northern Thailand and there is a full range of restaurants from Australian/British/Irish, through French and German to Italian, Spanish, American and Mexican. Considering how remote Chiang Mai is from the major centres of population in Asia, there are a remarkable number of Western restaurants.

It can be hard to find strictly vegetarian food in Chiang Mai, as fish and oyster sauce are used frequently, and the local Buddhist monks themselves often eat fish. Thus, asking for your dish to be prepared "like the monks", which works in other places, does not get the same results in Chiang Mai. There are a few completely vegetarian options.

Drink
Chiang Mai's nightlife is the most happening in the north, although still a far cry from Bangkok's hot spots. The busiest night life zones are near Tha Phae Gate, Loi Kroh Rd and along Charoen Rat Rd on the east bank of the Ping River.

Alcohol
Bars close at midnight in Chiang Mai. The police are strict about this.

Many, but by no means all, of Chiang Mai's tourist-oriented bars and pubs are located along Loi Kroh Rd (ถนนลอยเคระห์), outside the southeast quadrant of the old city. In addition to the street bars, the Chiang Mai Entertainment Complex (CMEC) (the CMEC sign is not prominent. Much more so is a lighted sign in front, Loikroh Boxing Stadium) can be found at the Night Bazaar-end of Loi Kroh. Here you will find around 30 bars ranging from sports bars that feature big screens to watch sports and play pool, to Pattaya-style girlie "beer bars", to even bars staffed exclusively by kathoeys (ladyboys). The complex also features a muay Thai boxing ring that has exhibition bouts for free or a voluntary donation, and on some nights (varies) real competitive boxing that requires an entrance fee unless your bar has provided you with complimentary viewing. And for extra fun, the occasional Westerner climbs into the ring, usually with hilarious results.

Also take a stroll along Moon Muang Road and its side Sois 1 and 2. Here you can find small expat hangouts and sports bars. Most have pool tables and hostesses, along with music videos or various TV sport programmes. Be aware that despite their charm and friendliness, the pressure to purchase lady drinks can result in a very surprising tab at the end of the night.

Gay bars

 * Since 2015 Chareon Prathet Soi 6 at Chiang Mai Night Bazaar has become home to many gay bars and is now known locally as gay soi 6.

Live music
The area along the east bank of the Mae Ping River on Charoen Rat Rd is famous for jazz, rock, pop, Thai, and country and Western live music, along with restaurants serving Thai, Western and Chinese food. Coming from the centre of the city, just walk from the Night Bazaar across the Nawarat Bridge, from where all the restaurants can be seen along the river on the left.

Most bands in Chiang Mai play for about an hour, and then move on to do the same at another restaurant or pub, so don't be surprised to see the same band if you move venues.



Nimmanhaemin Rd
Northwest of the city centre, the area around Nimmanhaemin Rd is a popular hangout for younger Thais, perhaps due to its proximity to Chiang Mai University ("maw chaw"). The pubs tend to straddle a fine line between bar, restaurant and nightclub, and feature loud music interspersed with live bands fronted by musicians who are most likely hitting the books in the daytime. Tourists looking for something racier are better off staying in the east side of the city. Little English is spoken in this part of the city. Little doesn't mean none, however, and the staff of many bars, being students, still can understand what do you want, or even sometimes can speak English reasonably well.

Sleep
Accommodation in Chiang Mai is generally cheap, even by Thai standards. All types of lodging are available from inexpensive guest-houses with little or no service to the typical high rise hotels and elaborate garden resorts. The latest boom is Thai-style boutique resorts located near the old city centre — several have been built since mid-2005, and offer excellent service in quiet garden settings; most are fairly small with as few as 8 rooms and a pool, and are decorated with Thai crafts and antiques.

Evenings in Chiang Mai are cooler than Bangkok and the south during the dry season, so air conditioning may be less of a priority.

Some of the cheapest accommodation may refuse guests who are not also booking a trekking package. If so, please remove them from Wikivoyage.

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Emergency contacts

 * Fire: 053-241777
 * Police - emergencies: 191
 * Rescue Team: 053-218888
 * Tourist police: 1155, 053-278559

Crime
Chiang Mai, like most of Thailand, is quite safe, even at night. The dark streets can look forbidding but violent crime is rare and visitors shouldn't worry unduly. As always, travellers should take extra care in all poorly lit or more remote areas. Don't carry valuables in a bag after dark as the most common tourist related crime here is bag-snatching by youths on motorbikes. Mind your bag especially if you are walking on a dark street at night.

The safest approach is to act like your Thai hosts and wear reasonable clothing (shoulders and chest covered) medium-length skirts, long shorts or long pants, speak in a moderate tone of voice, and avoid flashing money or jewellery. Not only will respectable Thais appreciate your behaviour, you are much less likely to become a target of any criminal activity.

Scams
Some scams from Bangkok have started to rear their ugly heads in Chiang Mai. Two in particular are worth watching out for: the gem scam, where you are talked into buying near-worthless gems at far above their real value; and the tuk-tuk scam, where a smooth-talking tuk tuk driver tells you that the attraction you want to see is closed, and instead offers you a sightseeing tour for 20 baht (or some similarly unrealistic amount) - the tour will either consist of nothing but overpriced gift shops, or will smoothly segue into the gem scam. See the "Stay Safe" section of the Bangkok article for more details.

Smoke
Chiang Mai's smoke levels can be discomforting, and sometimes dangerous, during burning season which starts around Makha Bucha Day (end-Feb to early Mar) and lasts about a month. Although there is a ban on burning, the whole of northern Thailand often falls under a thick haze during this period, with tens of thousands treated for smoke inhalation. Rice farmers burning off fields are commonly blamed for the smoke, but according to the Department of Air Quality there is an extensive range of burning activities during this season. In addition to slash and burn farmers clearing fields, a smaller proportion of farmers may burn land in order to clear forests and expand fields, to flush out game, or to trigger the growth of specific mushroom varieties. As a result, there are typically dozens of deaths, and for example in 2007 58 people died of smoke-related heart attacks. You are well advised to avoid Chiang Mai during this period. If you intend to visit at this time, you are advised to check on smoke levels in advance. Thousands of residents, both foreign and Thai, leave Chiang Mai at this time to escape the smoke. The government is apparently uninterested in fixing the problem: in 2015 they blamed it on outdoor cooking. The present solution is to spray the streets with water to "moisten the air". There is no political will to tackle the burning of rice fields and forests, which is the cause of the smoke. On 10 March 2015, dangerous PM10 particles measured over 255 mcg per cubic metre of air in Chiang Mai, well above the unsafe level of 120 mcg (this is the Thai government standard which is more than twice the maximum level set by the World Health Organization [WHO] at 50 mcg). Neighbouring areas can be as bad or worse, Chiang Rai for example, was at 306 mcgs, so moving on to a neighbouring province will generally not help: the pall of smoke stretches from northern Laos, across Thailand to eastern Burma. Here you can find the actual situation.

Water
Do not drink tap water. Drink only bottled water. Nearly all restaurants use ice that is made by professional ice-making companies and is generally safe. There are street side water vending machines (1 baht per litre) throughout the city. Using these saves money and reduces plastic waste.

Internet
The Government of Thailand censors Internet access. 2010 estimates place the number of blocked websites at 110,000 and growing. Roughly 77% are blocked for reasons of lèse majesté, content (content that defames, insults, threatens, or is unflattering to the king, including national security and some political issues), 22% for pornography, which is illegal in Thailand. Some web pages from BBC One, BBC Two, CNN, Yahoo News, the Post-Intelligencer newspaper (Seattle, USA), The Age newspaper (Melbourne, Australia) dealing with Thai political content are blocked. The Daily Mail (UK) is blocked entirely.

Many guesthouses, hotels, cafes, bars, restaurants, and even swimming pools, offer Wi-Fi connections. These are usually free or available for a small charge. If you are travelling with your laptop you should be able to connect to the Internet within a 500 m radius of your Chiang Mai city-based accommodation at little or no cost.

In November 2012, the Ministry of Information announced the launch of 3,000 free Wi-Fi hotspots in Chiang Mai. The scheme, called ICT Free Wi-Fi for the Public by AIS, offers a download speed of 10 Mbit/s for up to five hours a month. Hotspots can be found near schools, shopping centres, hospitals and government offices. Those interested must sign up for the free service at ICT Free Wi-Fi, after which you will receive a user ID and password.

Internet cafes can be found everywhere within the city. Most places charge per 15 or 30 minute block, others by the minute. The cheapest and most comfortable places with fast connections, webcam, microphone, and Skype, are along Huay Kaew Road near the main entrance to Chiang Mai University.



As elsewhere in Thailand, GPRS/EDGE is a cheap and convenient option to access Internet if you have a laptop and local SIM card. TrueMove 850 MHz 3G covers most parts of the city. For more details, refer to the Thailand article.

Telephone

 * Directory inquiry service: 183/1133
 * International and domestic operator-assisted service: 100
 * Overseas dial-out code: 001
 * AT&T International operator for collect calls: 001 999 11111
 * Mobile phones in Thailand have 10 digits, including the leading zero. Land-line telephones have 11 digits, including the leading zero.

Consulates

 * 🇦🇺 Australia
 * 🇧🇩 Bangladesh
 * 🇨🇦 Canada
 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇫🇮 Finland
 * 🇫🇷 France
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇮🇳 India
 * 🇮🇹 Italy
 * 🇯🇵 Japan
 * 🇲🇲 Myanmar
 * 🇿🇦 South Africa
 * 🇰🇷 South Korea
 * 🇸🇪 Sweden
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Laundry
There are and laundry services, charging around 30 baht per kg, all over the city, but they all wash cold. There are also many laundromats, also washing cold. You will find them in many streets, inside a house, outside under a little roof, on the ground floor of apartment buildings and more. There are also several more professional laundromats since about 2018.



Go next

 * Chiang Dao — an hour north of the city, and a good starting point for treks into the mountains
 * Chiang Rai — a relaxed city 3 hours north, and a transit point on the way to the Golden Triangle and Laos
 * Doi Inthanon National Park — the highest peak in Thailand (2,599 m), 60 km SW of Chiang Mai
 * Lampang — urban Northern Thailand without the commercialism, 100 km SE of Chiang Mai
 * Lamphun — a scenic town with a long history and a longan festival, 26 km SE of Chiang Mai
 * Mae Hong Son — a picturesque little town with lush valleys, rocky streams and a small lake, 235 km from Chiang Mai on Rte 1095. By public bus about 6 hr
 * Nan — the former capital of a small kingdom filled with history and temples and surrounded by mountains
 * Pai — a tourist-oriented town, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a broad traveller & backpacker scene. Popular with hippies