Changchun

Changchun (长春; Chángchūn; lit. Long Spring) is the capital of Jilin Province. With a population of more than 6 million, it is one of the major cities in Northeast China (东北; Dōngběi), and is the largest center for China's automotive industry.

Despite its relatively high population and economic importance, Changchun has a lot of greenery, especially stands of pine trees, and though it is a draw for university students and some investors, it is not a major tourist destination, which is probably one of the reasons people who do visit this city are likely to meet friendly people who are interested in speaking with them, not necessarily to sell them anything but just out of curiosity.

Understand
Changchun was the capital of the Japanese puppet state of Manchukuo from 1932 to 1945. In 2007, the city hosted the Asian Winter Games.

The ancient period
Changchun in its present form is a new city with only about 200 years of history. But there used to be a city thousands of years ago known by different names. The ancient city changed its name several times, 'Xidu', 'Helong', 'Tiangang' (Han Dynasty), 'Shushan' (Tang Dynasty), 'Longzhou' (Liao Dynasty), and 'Kuancheng' (Jin Dynasty). Eventually, Kuancheng was destroyed by the Mongolian army, leaving nothing except mention of its conquest in the annals of history.

In 1800 (Qing Dynasty), Emperor Jiaqing decided to build a town, as one of the junctions on the way from the capital Beijing, to the Changbai Mountains, the holy mountains of Qing royalty. The Emperor gave the reborn town a name with a blessing: 'Changchun'. In some tales, this new name came from a couplet made by the Emperor Qianlong, the father of Jiaqing. This couplet was made when the old emperor was on his way to the Changbai Mountains, to praise the spring-like summer of the Changchun area.

The semicolonial period
After defeating China in the first Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895), Japan had desires to expand, including plans to conquer the eastern lands of Fengtian Province (Liaoning Province today) from China. This expansion clashed with the wishes of Russia, France, and Germany; Japan had to settle for money from China instead (about 30 million liang). For their part, Russia got the rights to build a railway in the sought-after lands.

In 1896, Russia built a railway station and a settlement in Changchun.

In 1906, Japan defeated Russia in the Russo-Japanese War, and gained the rights to the railway in southern Northeast China. Changchun became the junction between the Japanese-owned South Manchurian Railway and the Russian-owned Chinese Eastern Railway, which had different rail gauges and permit licenses. There were railway repair shops, and branch lines originating in Changchun extended into Korea and Inner Mongolia.

An epidemic of pneumonia occurred in many parts of Manchuria from 1910–11.

On 18 September 1931, Japan invaded Manchuria. The leader of the area, Zhang Xueliang, commanded his army to retreat without counterattack, and pinned all his hopes on the intercession of the League of Nations, which was ineffectual.

The city's name was changed on 1 March 1932, to Xinjing (新京), the capital of Manchukuo, and Pu Yi, the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty, was its designated overseer. The new tenants gave it a grand blueprint with broad avenues and modern public works. The city underwent rapid expansion in both economy and infrastructure and provided materials for Japan's wars.

The Chinese people were forbidden to learn their own language and culture, as they were now under the control of the Japanese Empire. Life under Japanese occupation was cruel.

The Civil War
The area changed hands again when on 20 August 1944, the Soviet army took over the city. They stayed until 4 April 1946, and took away all the machines and materials they could move. At that time, the army of the Republic of China took over the city. Two months later, the Chinese Civil War began, and Changchun once again became a battlefield.

From May to October 1948, the Kuomintang army was besieged by the Communist army. The Kuomintang army looted food from citizens and the Communists forbade anybody to leave. At last, the Kuomintang army surrendered and the Communist army captured the city.

Today
A few years after the Civil War, in September 1954, Changchun became the capital of Jilin Province. Nowadays, it is a quiet northern city having short, windy springs and cool summers. It is also an important domestic optical research center, along with automobile and train manufacturing bases.

New train tracks have been laid, decades after world powers fought for its resources. On 27 May 2010, China's fastest high speed train, the 380A which can reach 380 km/hr, began operations as the city continues to make its own history.

Climate
Changchun has a monsoon-influenced climate, with great seasonal temperature extremes. Winters are long, very cold, and windy, with a January average high temperature of −10 °C (14°F). However, there is little snow and the air is dry. Summers are very warm and humid, with extended periods of 30°C (86°F) highs, though the average high in July is 28°C (82°F).

By plane


The Longjia rail station is in the airport. It has high-speed train access to Changchun, taking just 14 minutes. The frequency is every 10-30 minutes during the day, but it does not run at night (about 8pm-7am).

From the airport there are regular coach services (¥20-30 one way) available to the center (e.g. People's Square (人民广场)). Travel time is around 45 minutes. A taxi to/from the city costs around ¥80 including toll, but from the airport to the city most of the taxi drivers reject a drive if you are not willing to pay at least ¥100 (do not discuss it, do it or take the bus).

By train
Changchun has two main passenger railway stations:

There is also Changchun South Railway Station (长春南站), which is very small and only local trains stop there.

Thanks to the railroad-building efforts of Japanese in the early- to mid-1900s, the rail network in Northeast China is extensive and no place is very far by rail. (All times approximate.)


 * Beijing - 8 hours (6.5 hours D Train)
 * Dalian - 7–10 hours (4 hours D Train)
 * Dandong - 10 hours
 * Harbin - 4 hours (1.5 hours D Train)
 * Jilin - 2/3 hours, D Train
 * Shanghai - 32 hours (11.5 hours G train)
 * Shenyang - 2–4 hours (1.5 hours D Train)
 * Tonghua - 9 hours
 * Xi'an - 34 hours

Rail travel is by far the cheapest way to travel in and out of Changchun. If you do not want to go to the train station yourself, you can go to any good travel agent who will do this on your behalf, usually for ¥10-20 extra.

By bus
There are long-distance coaches that regularly go from/to Beijing available from the coach station on Huanghe Road (黄河路), just off Renmin Avenue (人民大街). There is also a long-distance bus station at the south end of Renmin Avenue (take bus Z306 from the train station).

You can also catch coaches and buses from pretty much anywhere in Jilin Province, though they have a reputation for being dangerous and are slightly more expensive, though faster, than the train.

The main Long-Distance Bus Station is at 226 Renmin Avenue.
 * Beijing - takes about 8 hours
 * Dalian - takes about 8 hours
 * Harbin - takes about 4 hours
 * Jilin - takes about 2 hours
 * Shenyang - takes about 4 hours

Get around
Changchun is a very compact city planned by the Japanese with a layout of open avenues and public squares (guǎngchǎng). It is pretty easy to travel from one place to another; however, with the increase in private car ownership, traffic is getting worse by the day.



By metro
The Changchun Subway consists of 5 lines (1,2,3,4,8) which provide easy access to many parts of the city.

Line 2 serves the Changchun West train station. Lines 3 and 4 serve the Changchun train station (line 1 passes nearby but a station is not yet open).

By taxi
Taxis are by far the best way to get around. They are cheap but you should have a piece of paper with the address if you do not speak Mandarin.

Taxi fares start at ¥5 up to 2.5 km (plus a mandatory ¥1 fuel surtax), after that ¥1.30/.5 km. Several taxi companies are serving the city and they will not try to cheat you. It is common for drivers to pick up other passengers who might be going in the same direction if there are unused seats.

However, if the driver is taking you in circles, complain at the hotel drop-off point. The staff there normally will support you in such cases. For other cases simply pay not more than shown on the meter. In general: Make sure you know the name of the places you are going to in Mandarin or have a paper with the Chinese address with you. It would not hurt either to travel during the day and have one of Shangri-La's English maps, or even one in Chinese from Xinhua bookstore.

On foot
From May to October, Changchun is a decent walking city, as the weather is fine and there are no hills. The city does tend to be spread out, so travelers should plan on using other forms of transportation. During the winter months temperatures are too cold to walk longer distances in Changchun, so other forms of transport should be considered.



By light rail
There are two light rail routes (54 and 55) operating in the west part of the city. Route 55 terminates at Changchun West train station.

By bus
An extensive bus network and most of the buses cost ¥1; however, those who can not read Chinese will find it nearly impossible to use the network.

Most buses go to the bus station outside the train station, and other central areas such as Guilin Road (桂林路), Chongqing Road (重庆路) and Hongqi Street (红旗街). The buses are often extremely crowded and especially uncomfortable during the hot summers as there is no air conditioning.

Important bus numbers include:


 * 362 - 06:00-20:30 daily. From the train station to Hongqi Street (红旗街), Chongqing Road (重庆路) and Guilin Road (桂林路).
 * 306 - 5:50AM-23:00 daily. Busy route that goes north–south along Renmin Avenue (人民大街) from the train station to Changchun University (长春大学).
 * 80 - 06:00-20:00 daily. Circular route around Changchun that goes pretty much everywhere including Hongqi Street (红旗街), Chongqing Road (重庆路), Guilin Road (桂林路), the train station and the zoo.
 * 240 - 06:00-19:30. Satellite Square (卫星广场) to Culture Square (文化广场) via Guilin Road (桂林路).

By tram
Although the city once had the most complex tram system in Northern China, there is now only one remaining route still open. The number 54 runs down Hongqi Street (红旗街) to the far west of the city (where there really is not much). Many of the trams still in use today are the original cars from 1940, so it is worth the ¥1 ride just for the experience of yesteryear.

By minibus
If you are in need of an adrenaline rush, look no further than one of the minibuses that tear around the city streets. Some places out in the suburbs are only serviced by such buses, and the fare is usually ¥1-2, but the drivers seem to think that they are on a giant racetrack most of the time and you will get thrown around. Expect the front passenger to sit at the side-door, calling out to potential customers, and to be encouraged to hop on the bus while it is moving ever so slowly. If you were old, they would probably stop, or expect you to take a taxi for a little more. Very crowded at times.

By bicycle
Travelers should be cautious of bicycling in Changchun. For half the year it is generally too cold and during the summer months, too dangerous. Unlike other big cities in China, Changchun does not separate cycle lanes from the main traffic, which leads to buses, taxis, cars, and motorcycles sharing the same space as the cyclists. The whole situation is dangerous and this is perhaps the reason why by Chinese standards there are few people who regularly cycle here. The other problem is that because of the city's layout, there are plenty of large roundabouts where 4 or 5 busy roads converge on one another, making it extremely difficult to cycle without having to continually dismount.

If you want to bike around, it is recommended that you follow closely behind one of the local people on cargo-bike, merchant-bike, or donkey. There are off times during the day when biking would be less challenging. Drivers are not overly aggressive towards bikers.

By three-wheeler
There are brightly-colored three-wheel plastic taxis, available from near Changchun University (长春大学), which only operate for short distances in the south of the city. If you are in the Jingyuetan (净月潭) part of town, this is the easiest mode of transport as there are few taxis operating there. It is fairly easy to find a taxi anywhere in Jingyuetan. They are cheaper and slower than regular taxis. There is no meter, so expect to negotiate with the driver. A typical ride should not exceed ¥3.

By motorcycle
If you need to get somewhere fast then jump on one of these. They generally hang around in the south of the city and out in the suburbs. They are unlicensed to carry fare paying passengers, so bear in mind that if there is an accident, you might find yourself in trouble. However, they tend to drive in the cycle lanes at quite low speeds and so are safer than you might expect. Expect to pay as little as ¥1 for a short trip.

Learn
Changchun is a very good place to study Mandarin. The following places provide various courses for all levels:


 * Jilin University (吉林大学)
 * Changchun University (长春大学)
 * Changchun Teacher's College (长春师范学院)
 * Changchun University of Technology (长春工业大学)
 * North East Normal University (东北师范大学)

There are also private training centers that will provide either small group Mandarin lessons, one-on-one lessons, or even a home tutor. The rates are around ¥40 for a one-hour or longer lesson with a professional teacher.

Buy
Currency exchange is available at the airport, various hotels and banks, including Bank of China on Xi'an Dalu (西安大路).

There are three major shopping areas: Chongqing Road (重庆路; Chóngqìnglù), Guilin Road (桂林路; Guìlinlù), and Hongqi Street (红旗街; Hóngqíjiē).

Local products

 * Ginseng - as the region around Changchun is a top producer of ginseng, it is available at most pharmacies in the city. Other products that may be of interest include wood ear fungus and lingzhi mushroom.
 * Kites - attractive and cheap kites are sold by vendors around Culture Square.

Shops

 * Sanfo is the leading outdoor gear stores in China and local store is at 668 Xikang Hutong, Ziyou Dalu District.
 * People's Square Here is the biggest selection of clothing shops and department stores in the whole city. Shopping runs along both Xi'an Da Lu and Changchun St. A well-visited mall, Charter Mall, (Zhuōzhǎn 卓展), on Xi'an Da Lu across from the Shangri-la Hotel. One can find luxury brands co-existing with the likes of Wal-Mart.
 * Guilin Road (桂林路) area is about 1.5 km (2.5 mi) to the south of Chongqing Rd along Tongzhi Jie (同志街) and is the most cosmopolitan part of town. The area along Guilin Lu, Tongzhi St, and the surrounding side streets offer much to see, buy, and eat. There are many restaurants in this area especially if you are interested in Korean food. Be careful with Korean food in Changchun as many Korean restaurants specialize in "Dog pot." There is less overall choice than Chongqing Lu, but if you are looking for specifics - e.g. Korean fashions then is the best place in town - though the shops in this area are a little more expensive.  This area can be extremely busy, and it is definitely a target area for younger shoppers. Many places will not haggle price.
 * Hongqi Street (红旗街) is to the west of Guilin Lu and is the smallest of the three shopping areas. It is dominated by one of the better department stores in Changchun: Ouya (欧亚).  The 6th-8th floors of Ouya contain the largest electronics market in the city. You can find anything electronic here, from mp3 players to laptops. Prices can be very high.
 * The Underground Markets (Dìxià Shìchǎng 地下市场): These are now extensive underground shopping areas, originally dug out by POWs during the occupation, intended to be used as bomb shelters.  There are three of these places in Changchun: Chongqing Lu (重庆路), the Train Station (长春站), and Hongqi Jie (红旗街). If you want anything cheap (and probably fake) then these are the places to come.  There are hundreds of small shops selling relatively undifferentiated products, and the term buyer beware definitely applies. There are some good deals to be had, but some products are poor quality and have high ticket prices. Therefore, be prepared to haggle as the shopkeepers will try to get you to pay the sticker price, which the local shoppers will never pay. If you don't speak Chinese, bring a pen and paper to help negotiate your price. Start at 50% to 75% off the ticketed price. If the shopkeeper balks at your offer, go to another seller. More often than not, if the shopkeeper wants the sale, they will call after you.  This can be a fun shopping experience, but you may get your best deal at a discount retailer at home.
 * Beifang Market (Beǐfāng Shìchǎng 北方市场)
 * Zhongdong Market (Zhōngdōng Dàshìchǎng 中东大市场)

Eat
Very good flatbread is available in Changchun. Look for it on the streets or in markets.

Drink
Beer (啤酒) is probably the cheapest and safest thing to drink - and being Northeast China - comes in many varieties and is available almost anywhere. A big bottle (630 ml) should cost between ¥3-6. In the summer months good draft beer is available from most small restaurants, the black beer (黑啤) being particularly good.

Huadan (华丹), Jinshibai (金士百) and Yinpu (银浦) beers are all brewed in Jilin Province. There are also various Harbin beers (哈尔滨啤酒) available, as well as Bing Chuan (冰川) from the Korean prefecture of Jilin Province.

Like all cities in China, avoid drinking bottled water from street vendors and try instead at a supermarket or convenience store.

Bars
There are a number of western-style pubs in Changchun. There is a really big bar and club scene on Longli Lu (隆礼路) which are pretty hot during weekends. The beer there is cheap, about ¥6/cup. Occasionally there are some parties which are organized by "Changchun Friends" or foreign teachers. Usually, they play the music themselves. The atmosphere is quite comfortable and people are very nice.



Budget
Not many true budget options exist, and a number of hotels will not accept foreigners, for example Home Inn next to the Train Station. Good areas with lots of hotels are south of the train station (along Renmin Street) and the north part of Hongqi Street.



Go next
Harbin is about 3 hours away by train. Train trips to Shenyang vary in length but can last as little as 2 hours. Trains to Jilin city take 45 minutes.