Capri

The small Italian island of Capri is 5 km from the mainland in the Bay of Naples, a celebrated beauty spot and coastal resort since the days of the Roman Republic until now. It is also part of Campania.

Cities

 * — the second town of Capri with no sea views except on Monte Solaro, but a fun place nonetheless
 * — the main town

Understand
Capri, known in Greek mythology as the isle of the sirens, was a favored resort of the Roman emperors. Most notoriously, the emperor Tiberius had his villa on the island, the location (supposedly) of debaucherous orgies. Those who displeased the emperor were flung to their deaths from the cliffs. The island is world-famous and is very touristy, especially when swamped with tourists in July & August, but other times of year it is calmer and more relaxing.

Related readings
The isle of Capri is the setting for William Somerset Maugham's The Lotus Eater, a short story in which the Bostonian protagonist arrives in Capri on holiday, wherein he is so enchanted by the place that he abandons his job and decides to spend the rest of his life in leisure on the island.

Villa San Michele in Anacapri is the former residence of Swedish physician Axel Munthe (1857-1949) and the main scenery of his memoir, The Story of San Michele. Among other stories, he describes his youthful discovery of the ruins (1874) out of which he eventually created the villa (1895).

Pronunciation of the name
Many brand names of products are pronounced kuh-PREE in English-speaking countries, but if you want to pronounce the name of the island like Italians do, you have to say KAH-pree.

By boat



 * Capri is reached in about 40 minutes by hydrofoil from the port of Ischia or Forio, docking at on the north side of the island. There are also daily ferries from Naples (20 per day, €16, 40 minutes), Amalfi, Positano and from Sorrento (15 per day, €20, 30 minutes (Oct 2019)). Boats are operated by Caremar and SNAV.
 * For arriving in style, Capritime Boats specialises in water taxi direct transfers from Naples, Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast and Ischia to Capri. They also provide luxury full-day and half-day boat tours to the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento Coast from Capri, tailor itineraries for cruise ship passengers docked in Sorrento, Capri, Naples and Amalfi and also offer special Capri and Ischia island boat excursions.
 * From Marina Grande, a funicular goes up to Capri Town, and boats leave for the Blue Grotto. The fourth store to the right of the funicular provides baggage storage for €2.50/day per bag, from 08:30-18:00. Tickets for buses, funicular, and return boats are for sale at kiosks, along with public toilets. The Tourist Information office offers €1 maps, open daily April to October 08:30-20:30, November to March 09:00-13:00 & 15:30-14:30. The Bar Augusto has internet access from 06:00-20:00.

Get around

 * By foot: from the main harbour to the town up the hill leads a range of stairs. Stairs and walkways, mostly signposted, crisscross the island.
 * By funicolare: this mountain tram (same stuff as in Naples, Heidelberg, Barcelona and San Francisco) connects the harbour with the town up the hill. €2 per trip (Oct 2019). Read also about the unified public transport ticket Campania Unico.
 * By taxi: The open top taxis are expensive, but if there are a group of you, worth considering. Haggle to get a price to ferry you around the island for the day (it won't be cheap - but very little on Capri is!).
 * By bus: Island buses are readily available to take you to the various areas of the island. They run on a schedule and cost €2 per ride (Oct 2019). Buses run from:
 * Marina Grande to Capri town (4 per hour) and then take bus to Anacapri (4 per hour) but the Capri to Anacapri bus gets crowded, so you could take a bus direct from Marina to Anacapri (2 per hour)
 * Anacapri Buses go to Capri (at least 4 per hour) and to the Blue Grotto

See

 * Sunrise - If you take the early ferry from Naples (the one at 06:45), then as you travel to Capri, the sun rises over the mountains. The sky turns from deep violet to pink to orange to gold. It is an amazingly beautiful sight, certainly worth waking up at the ungodly hour!
 * Sunrise - If you take the early ferry from Naples (the one at 06:45), then as you travel to Capri, the sun rises over the mountains. The sky turns from deep violet to pink to orange to gold. It is an amazingly beautiful sight, certainly worth waking up at the ungodly hour!

Anacapri

 * Capri Diorama in a courtyard near the Tourist Information office, is a large, painted model of the island. Avoid it between 14:00 & 15:00, when cruise ship crowds deluge it, on Via G. Orlandi, €3, open daily 09:00-19:30, closed November to march. Telephone: 081-837-1169.
 * The Monte Solaro Chairlift goes up to the high summit of Mt. Solaro, with a commanding view at the top of the entire Naples Bay. It takes 15 minutes up or down, €9 round-trip, €7 one way (you can hike for 40 minutes down from the summit), open daily in summer 09:30-17:00, last run down at 17:30, November to March last run at 15:30.
 * The Faro Lighthouse, reached by bus from Anacapri (2 an hour) is a great place to enjoy the sunset, along with its beach pool, and restaurants.
 * The Monte Solaro Chairlift goes up to the high summit of Mt. Solaro, with a commanding view at the top of the entire Naples Bay. It takes 15 minutes up or down, €9 round-trip, €7 one way (you can hike for 40 minutes down from the summit), open daily in summer 09:30-17:00, last run down at 17:30, November to March last run at 15:30.
 * The Faro Lighthouse, reached by bus from Anacapri (2 an hour) is a great place to enjoy the sunset, along with its beach pool, and restaurants.

Do
Capri is a place to do as little or as much as you like. The four cafes in the main square are the place to be seen in the evenings after the deluge of day trippers have left. Celebrities can occasionally be found sipping drinks there. High end shops line the streets if you feel the need for retail therapy.


 * Walk Take one of the public footpaths which let you reach, for instance, the "Arco Naturale" and other beautiful sights which the large majority of tourists will only see from their boat trips around the island. Some of these paths are very steep and you need to walk up and down long stairs sometimes. The map you can buy for a small fee at the main tourist office in the harbor shows most of the footpaths. However, it is difficult to get lost on such a small island.
 * Hike Nearly the entire perimeter of the island is accessible for hiking. Few people, except local fishers and hunters, take advantage of these beautiful natural trails. Several abandoned forts are found along the path and there are trails and paved descents that can take you all the way to the water's edge. This is a great way to explore the natural beauty of the island when the day tripping tourists flood the more populous regions of the island. Bring plenty of water and comfortable shoes if you do hike; you may be a long distance from the nearest road or bus stop.
 * Rent a motor boat For anywhere up to 5 people per boat, you pay around €35 for two hours and drive the boat yourself - the perfect way to see the island from the sea - no schedule, you can stop wherever you please to take a swim. Enquire near to the port for the companies who provide these boats.
 * Rent a motor scooter to tour the island.  Gets you around much quicker than on foot, but still allows you to easily maneuver the winding roads. Beware of crazy bus drivers especially around corners! Beware as they may only allow experienced drivers to rent scooters.
 * Take the chairlift ride Called the Seggiovia by locals, it goes from Anacapri up to Monte Solaro. On a clear day the views over the bay of Naples from the summit are indescribable and there are some really pretty gardens and orchards underfoot on the way up the mountain (passing over private homes). The ride takes 15 minutes each way and is a remarkably peaceful break from the tourist crowds elsewhere in Capri. You'll want at the very least 30 minutes at the top, where a restaurant and toilets are available. Round trip is €12 or €9 one way. Open daily in summer 09:30 to 17:00, last run down at 17:30, November to March last run down at 15:30. Very windy at wintertime.
 * Swim, many locals swim in the Blue Grotto after 18:00 when the boats stop and in any of the other grottos around the island. Swimming is much safer however at the small beach to the left of the ticket kiosk for the furnicolare in Marina Grande or on the other side of the island at Marina Piccola (resort-like beach) or at any of the natural beaches reachable by boat. Swimming in grottos is only for experienced swimmers and is not for the faint-hearted, as tidal waves frequently close and open the openings to the grottos, and in the process, potentially injure a swimmer against the rocks when trying to enter or exit. Never do this alone, go with a local if you really feel the need to swim inside a grotto or the Blue Grotto which has a very low mouth opening.
 * Marina Piccola is on the opposite end of the island from Marina Grande. You can walk, but the bus is probably easier. The Marina Piccola is a quieter area which has two beach areas where you can swim or layout on the smooth rock beach. But in July and August finding space on the pebbles is very difficult.

Events
From April to the end of the summer, the island also comes to life from an artistic and cultural point of view. Concerts are organized almost every evening in the squares or the splendid villas built by Tiberius, as well as painting and sculpture exhibitions, plays and dance performances. This wonderful island is a destination that attracts visitors of all nationalities!


 * Festival of San Costanzo On May 14 every year, the patron saint of the town of Capri, San Costanzo, is celebrated.
 * Festival of Sant’Antonio On June 13 every year, the patron saint of the town of Anacapri is celebrated with a large rustic festival.
 * International Folklore Festival During the 1st week of August, Anacapri plays host to a range of events in its squares, featuring musical bands and folk dance companies.
 * Settembrata Anacaprese September. A large rustic festival for celebrating the grape harvest: 10 days of celebration dedicated to the island’s typical produce, including shows, competitions and games.
 * Capri Film Festival Every December since 1991, Capri has hosted an international festival dedicated to the cinema. The event attracts Italian artistes, Hollywood stars and independent filmmakers keen to present their works in this exclusive location.

Arco Naturale—natural arch reachable by a beautiful hike around the southern edge of Capri.

Eat
Some restaurants, especially around the town center, can be very expensive. A good alternative: go to the local grocery store (one near the port, another in Anacapri) and make your own delicious sandwiches. (However there are few park benches and few public spaces to sit and eat on Capri.) Cafes at the harbour are particularly costly (a can of coke will cost €5, while the same thing can be bought from a food shop in the town for €1).


 * Donna Rachele Is a new and very good restaurant pretty close to the main square in Capri. Prices are not cheap but they are certainly worth it. They have a good wine selection and will make a nice recommendation if asked. There is also a beautiful tile mosaic on the second floor. Telephone: +39 081 8375387. Via Padre Serafino Cimino, 2bis.
 * Donna Rachele Is a new and very good restaurant pretty close to the main square in Capri. Prices are not cheap but they are certainly worth it. They have a good wine selection and will make a nice recommendation if asked. There is also a beautiful tile mosaic on the second floor. Telephone: +39 081 8375387. Via Padre Serafino Cimino, 2bis.
 * Donna Rachele Is a new and very good restaurant pretty close to the main square in Capri. Prices are not cheap but they are certainly worth it. They have a good wine selection and will make a nice recommendation if asked. There is also a beautiful tile mosaic on the second floor. Telephone: +39 081 8375387. Via Padre Serafino Cimino, 2bis.
 * Donna Rachele Is a new and very good restaurant pretty close to the main square in Capri. Prices are not cheap but they are certainly worth it. They have a good wine selection and will make a nice recommendation if asked. There is also a beautiful tile mosaic on the second floor. Telephone: +39 081 8375387. Via Padre Serafino Cimino, 2bis.
 * Donna Rachele Is a new and very good restaurant pretty close to the main square in Capri. Prices are not cheap but they are certainly worth it. They have a good wine selection and will make a nice recommendation if asked. There is also a beautiful tile mosaic on the second floor. Telephone: +39 081 8375387. Via Padre Serafino Cimino, 2bis.

Capri town
After getting off the train that goes up the hill, walk up to the square with the pillars all around, and you'll find a little drink stand. Buy a Red Orange Smoothie; they are excellent when the weather gets hot.

Anacapri
Bellavista, Casa Caprille, Villa Capri, Senaria, Loreley, La Porta, Due Pini Residence, Il Mulino, Da Gelsolmina Migliera



Stay safe
As with many other places, hike at your own risk. Cacti, prickly pears, bees, and steep slopes and edges are the primary things to be cautious of on some trails, but otherwise, hiking on Capri's trails is generally quite safe. However, be careful when walking down paths around the villas when alone, as many of the residents of the villas keep large dogs which may roam freely onto the public pathways; these dogs are not particularly friendly to outsiders.

Swimming in the grottoes is only for the very experienced, as tides can easily open and close the grottoes and dash swimmers against the rocks when trying to enter or exit. Swimming alone in the grottoes is highly discouraged.

Go next
From Capri’s port there are daily ferry trips to:


 * Ischia
 * Naples (2/hour, 40 minutes, €18)
 * Amalfi (mid-May–September only, 2/day hydrofoil, 1 hour, €14 or 2/day slow boat, 75 minutes, €11.50)
 * Sorrento (at least hourly, fast ferry 25 minutes, €5.80 or jet boat, 20 minutes, €12)
 * Pompeii
 * Praia a Mare
 * Positano (mid-May to September only, 2/day fast boat, 40 minutes, €15 or 1/day slow boat, 50 minutes, €12.50)
 * Vesuvius
 * Procida

Confirm schedule, last boats usually leave between 18:00 & 20:00