Córdoba (city, Spain)

Córdoba is a mid-sized city of 326,000 inhabitants (2018) and the capital of the province of Córdoba in the centre of Andalucia. A great cultural reference point in Europe, this ancient city has been declared a World Heritage Site and contains a mixture of the diverse cultures that have settled it throughout history. The historic quarter of Córdoba is a beautiful network of small streets, alleys, squares and whitewashed courtyards arranged around the Mezquita, which reflects the city's prominent place in the Islamic world during medieval times.

Understand


Very few places in the world can boast of having been the capital of a Roman province (Hispania Ulterior), the capital of an Arab State (Al-Andalus) and a Caliphate. Such splendor is palpable in the intellectual wealth of this city, that has seen the birth of figures like Seneca, Averroes, and Maimonides.

Córdoba also has much to offer in terms of art, culture and leisure, thanks to a myriad of cultural events that are organized here throughout the year: Flamenco festivals, concerts, ballet and other activities. These events are complemented by a number of museums and a good nightlife scene.



By train
RENFE, Spain's high-speed rail network, offers a very fast and comfortable train service to Córdoba. From Madrid Atocha trains run hourly, most continuing to Sevilla (45 min), some to Malaga (50 min), Cadiz or Algeciras (for Morocco). Two of the Madrid services originate in Barcelona, taking about five hours via Zaragoza. As the trains are so fast and journey times are short, they only run day-time.



By plane
Córdoba has no airport. The closest major airports are in Seville, Málaga and Madrid; from there a train or a bus to Córdoba takes but a few hours.

By car
Distances to Cordoba: Madrid 407 km, Badajoz 278 km, Granada 166 km, Malaga 175 km

Get around
Just about everything of interest in Córdoba is within easy walking distance (the one notable exception being the Medina Azahara), and the typical tourist can do with the standard tourist map which can be obtained from the tourist offices (one on the east side of the Mezquita, another between the Alcázar and the city walls, and yet another in the train station, to name a few).

The area with by far the most to see is the Old City surrounding the Mezquita. The Old City is a tangle of medieval-style streets roughly bounded by the Guadalquivir River on the south, the area surrounding Plaza de las Tendillas on the north and the tree-lined Paseo de la Victoria on the west. This area is crammed with places to stay, eat and buy souvenirs, though many visitors may find certain areas (particularly immediately surrounding the Mezquita) too touristy, with more interesting things found wandering into the tiny streets of the Jewish Quarter to the west and north of the Mezquita. Behind the Mezquita the Roman Bridge crosses the Guadalquivir River to a museum in the old gate on the opposite side.

The area immediately to the north of the Old City, roughly from the area around Plaza de las Tendillas to Avenida de America is a more modern section of town and is where the train and bus station is located as well as a major shopping area. Along Paseo de la Victoria on the west side and Avenida de America on the north are large parks that make for a pleasant stroll.

The Mezquita
M-Sa 08:30-19:00, Su 08:30-10:30 and 14:00-19:00 (last entry 30 minutes before closing). €13 (free entry during 8:30-9:30 morning mass).

The biggest attraction in Córdoba and a truly must-see building, the Mezquita is a massive former mosque-turned-cathedral famed for its "forest" of columns topped with Islamic-style red and white striped arches among its other many architectural highlights and serves as a reminder of the glory and importance Córdoba held in medieval times. The building is full of history and beauty - you'll want to give yourself at least a couple of hours to do it justice.

Built in 786 as a mosque, the structure was expanded several times under Córdoba's Muslim rule while still remaining largely true to the original design. Following the Christian Reconquista of Córdoba in 1236, work immediately went underway to convert the building to a church, and four centuries later a cathedral at the centre of the building was constructed, though not without controversy as it significantly altered the space. Today, despite the presence of the cathedral, most of the original mosque structure remains remarkably well-preserved.

Approaching the Mezquita, the first thing you will notice is the massive bell tower on the building's north side which looms over the surrounding buildings. Built in the 1600s the tower replaced a minaret previously on the site. Along the outside of the building the wall takes on the appearance of a fortress, with an elaborate set of Moorish-style archway and windows spaced every so often.

Stepping through one of the doors you'll enter the Patio de los Naranjos, or Court of the Orange Trees, which true to its name contains a grove of orange trees, planted in symmetrical rows that replicate the forest of columns within the building. A large fountain drips pleasantly in the middle, and the views of the bell tower framed by trees are excellent. The Patio is free to enter and is open during the day as a public park - the ticket booths are located on the bell tower side of the courtyard.

Entering the interior you'll immediately be standing before the forest of columns which recede into the distance, topped with their dazzling horseshoe arches. The light in the space will play interesting tricks with the arches and varies pretty dramatically as you walk through the building, going from rather dark when you enter to very bright at the cathedral in the middle and back and forth as you continue.

Opposite the room from the entrance is the Mihrab, a spectacular archway decorated with Arabic writing which was the focus of the mosque, as it faced in the direction of Mecca and was what every Muslim faced as they knelt on the floor to pray. Once, tens of thousands of people could fit into this space to pray, the multitude knelt on their rugs before the Mihrab. In the corner of the building nearby are glass cases with artifacts excavated from beneath the Mezquita, and the walls along the side of the building are lined with chapels, each one with an intricate piece of artwork.

At the centre of the building, the Cathedral towers over the rest of the building, and the transition from the impressive-but-intimate mosque structure to the overwhelming awe of the cathedral is abrupt and rather jarring, but don't let that stop you from taking in the beauty of the cathedral, with its rich decoration and well-illuminated interior, standing to suggest triumph over the Muslims who previously used this building. The presence of the cathedral also offers the unique opportunity to so easily compare the differences between Muslim and Christian architecture.

The Old City
A tangle of narrow medieval streets surrounding the Mezquita, the Old City sits just uphill from the muddy Guadalquivir River and contains the vast majority of Córdoba's tourist attractions. North and west of the Mezquita sits the Jewish Quarter, a neighborhood which dates from the late Middle Ages and offers an interesting stroll, some lovely patios and a few scant reminders of the Jewish population that once lived here.


 * City Wall.
 * Plaza del Potro - A small old square where Don Quijote de la Macha stayed in one of his adventures. You can find there a nice fountain with a small horse and a 'Triunfo de San Rafael'. Julio Romero de Torres local painter Museum and Fine Arts Museum are also located in this place.
 * Plaza de la Corredera - The only 'Plaza Mayor cerrada' (closed main square) in Andalucía.
 * City Wall.
 * Plaza del Potro - A small old square where Don Quijote de la Macha stayed in one of his adventures. You can find there a nice fountain with a small horse and a 'Triunfo de San Rafael'. Julio Romero de Torres local painter Museum and Fine Arts Museum are also located in this place.
 * Plaza de la Corredera - The only 'Plaza Mayor cerrada' (closed main square) in Andalucía.
 * City Wall.
 * Plaza del Potro - A small old square where Don Quijote de la Macha stayed in one of his adventures. You can find there a nice fountain with a small horse and a 'Triunfo de San Rafael'. Julio Romero de Torres local painter Museum and Fine Arts Museum are also located in this place.
 * Plaza de la Corredera - The only 'Plaza Mayor cerrada' (closed main square) in Andalucía.

Do
May - ¡Mayo!. The best time to visit the city. 'The Month of Córdoba'.


 * Feria de Córdoba - Last week in May, a huge fair of drinking, dancing, eating, and not working. Flamenco and salsa music. A great time! (Late May - early June)
 * Cruces de Mayo - 1st week of May. Very fun, a lot of public squares in the city centre, the old city, with big crosses flower-made, with music and drinks full of people having fun! (Early May.)
 * Cata del Vino Montilla-Moriles - Cordovan wine-tasting fair. Very good wine selection, tapas and music in a huge tent in the city centre. (Late April)
 * Festival de Patios - About 2 weeks during May. People living in the ancient districts of Córdoba are proud to open their courtyards to visitors and participate in a contest in which colourful plants and different elements invite to contemplate the beauty of traditional style houses. (Mid-May)

March-April
 * Semana Santa (the week before Easter) - Processions throughout town involving scenes from the life of Christ, bands, and penitents. Very nice exhibition of the city's culture. Approximately six processions each night from 18:00 to midnight.

July

February-March
 * Carnaval A typical Andalusian carnival (not as huge as Cadiz's festival, but a great time nevertheless). The city centre is full of people in costumes during the weekend, funny songs are sang throughout city squares.

During the year
 * Take a Segway Tour in Córdoba, passing by places which are normally missed by the visitor. English spoken tours. From €15 per person.
 * Take a Segway Tour in Córdoba, passing by places which are normally missed by the visitor. English spoken tours. From €15 per person.

Buy
The main shopping area is around the Plaza de las Tendillas: Concepción street, Cruz Conde street, Gran Capitán boulevard, Ronda de los Tejares avenue...


 * Sukia - cocktail shop, Cuesta Luján 4. (between Plaza de las Tendillas and San Fernado), 95749051, Really cool shop. Its sells Kitch, be it in clothes, music, decorations form, if it's kitsch from the 1950s, 60s or 70s, its here.
 * Blas s - Artisanal Ceramics, Calle Martinez Rücker. (The street leading to the Mezquita with a Moroccan restaurant.) This store is one of Córdoba's hidden gems. The owners sell beautiful ceramics of various different styles from their patio, so not only do you get to take a look at lovely handmade ceramics, but you also get a feel for the traditional Córdoba patio. If you're not lucky enough to visit Córdoba during the weeks of the patio competition, this store offers you a great opportunity. The ceramics are also of a higher quality than those of most of the stores around the Mezquita, since the store is dedicated to ceramics and isn't tourist-oriented. They are displaying the works of Carlos Durán, a Toledo surrealist with a flair for colour.

One of the traditional craftwork in Córdoba is jewellery. Good value jewels, specially gold, can be found around the city. However, it is advisable to buy far from touristic sites as they are the most expensive places to buy that. One place to check it is around Jesus Rescatado avenue.

Around Parque Juan Carlos I

 * Mercado Victoria, Jardines de la Victoria. A large, glass-enclosed food court with several dozen casual eateries and bars. A particularly good choice in the afternoon as many stalls stay open during the afternoon siesta which closes most restaurants.
 * Mercado Victoria, Jardines de la Victoria. A large, glass-enclosed food court with several dozen casual eateries and bars. A particularly good choice in the afternoon as many stalls stay open during the afternoon siesta which closes most restaurants.
 * Mercado Victoria, Jardines de la Victoria. A large, glass-enclosed food court with several dozen casual eateries and bars. A particularly good choice in the afternoon as many stalls stay open during the afternoon siesta which closes most restaurants.
 * Mercado Victoria, Jardines de la Victoria. A large, glass-enclosed food court with several dozen casual eateries and bars. A particularly good choice in the afternoon as many stalls stay open during the afternoon siesta which closes most restaurants.

Drink

 * Plaza de la Corredera. A lot of bars in this beautiful place, nice environment and nice people.
 * Vial Norte (Paseo de Córdoba). A lot of modern bars in the newest part of the city. Cute people and fancy pubs.
 * El Brillante, el Tablero Avenida del Brillante. For summertime, fancy bars, fancy people in those rich neighborhoods. From June to September.
 * Polígono industrial de Chinales (Chinales, industrial park). Very close to the city centre (5-10 min by car, €4 by taxi). Clubs/Discos: Maná, Silos, Kenia, Go...
 * Ciudad Jardín neighborhood Alderetes street, Julio Pellicer street. A lot of small but very fun places to dance, drink... to have fun! From October to May.

Guesthouses

 * Hostal Lineros 38 A very nice place with beautiful Andalusí (Islamic from southern Spain) architecture.

Hotels

 * Hotel AC Córdoba Excellent hotel in a modern environment set a block from the bus and train stations, very close to the city centre.
 * Hotel Córdoba Center 5 minutes walking distance from train/bus station and city centre.
 * Hotel Hospes Palacio del Bailío, the only 5-star hotel in town. Centrally located. Incredible old city palace from the 16th century. Respecting both Roman and Moorish architectural influences. 53 rooms, restaurant and spa. The new essence of Hospes Palacio del Bailío tells an old story, its architecture speaks of history in the old quarter of the city, next to the Cristo de ls Faroles square and 10 minutes from the Mosque.
 * Hotel Córdoba Center 5 minutes walking distance from train/bus station and city centre.
 * Hotel Hospes Palacio del Bailío, the only 5-star hotel in town. Centrally located. Incredible old city palace from the 16th century. Respecting both Roman and Moorish architectural influences. 53 rooms, restaurant and spa. The new essence of Hospes Palacio del Bailío tells an old story, its architecture speaks of history in the old quarter of the city, next to the Cristo de ls Faroles square and 10 minutes from the Mosque.

Connect
As of Sept 2021, the city has 4G from all Spanish carriers, and 5G from Movistar.

Stay safe
Exercise caution when walking around the area near the Mezquita: beggars will try to sucker you for some money and they often work in teams. You may find yourself being charged €40 for a palm reading, or having your money snatched by a little kid working together with the supposed palm reader. Just keep an eye on your things and don't get caught up with their scams.

Go next
Outside the city are very beautiful villages with longstanding traditions and ancient monuments. Many of them are served by the intra-province buses at Cordoba bus station. Some examples are:


 * Priego de Córdoba (Arabic: Madinat Baguh) - 103km southeast of Cordoba, Priego de Cordoba is filled with numerous Arabic, Spanish Baroque and Neoclassical monuments. Some remarkable monuments are the Fuente del Rey (The King's Fountain, built in Spanish Baroque style) with its 139 water spouts, the castle and the town's villa (all of Arabic origin) and the Castilian Playground (a 16th-century garden). The town is also known for its cuisine — in particular, its revuelto de collejas (campion [a type of flower] scramble) and medallones de rabo de toro (oxtail medallions).
 * Zuheros (Arabic: Sujaira) - 76 km southeast of Cordoba, Zuheros is a typical white Andalusian village with an impressive Moorish castle built on a rock. 4 km from the town lies the Cueva de los Murciélagos (Cave of the Bats), a huge cave worth the visit for geological and archaeological fans. It contains Neolithic art, and has impressive stalactites and stalagmites. The village itself is famous for its goat cheese.
 * Montilla - 44 km south of Cordoba, Montilla is world famous for its Montilla-Moriles wines and sherry. It is also known for its bakeries and its Holy Week procession.
 * Montoro (Arabic: Hisn Muntur) - 45 km northeast of Cordoba, Montoro is a picturesque town built on a bend on the Rio Guadalquivir. It is known for its historic quarter and its bridges. It is also the gateway to the Cardeña-Montoro Nature Reserve.
 * Baena (Arabic: Bayyana) - 62 km southeast of Cordoba, Baena is where Andalucia's best olive oil is produced.
 * Bujalance (Arabic: Bury Al-Hans) - 42 km east of Cordoba (an hour by bus), Bujalance is home to the second tallest structure in the province after Seville's Giralda- the slightly-leaning clocktower of the Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion church - and a Moorish fortress.
 * Parque Nacional de la Sierra de Hornachuelos in Hornachuelos and Parque Natural de las Sierras Subbéticas in Cardeña are interesting nature reserves.