Brunswick (Maine)

Pay a visit to picturesque Brunswick, Maine, and you'll discover something special, something greater than the sum of its parts. It's a classic New England charmer to be sure. Surrounded by pine forests and nestled into a crook of the Androscoggin River, natural beauty is in no short supply. History buffs will appreciate Bowdoin College and her several museums of note; while literature mavens will recognize Brunswick as the setting where Harriet Beecher Stowe penned Uncle Tom's Cabin, a 19th century clarion call for America's abolitionist movement.

Today, several talented chefs have chosen to call this town of 22,000 (2020) home. They've taken the areas already burgeoning food scene and iterated on it, serving up some truly extraordinary cuisine. When you combine the gastronomic offerings, retail options, and a proximity to nature&mdash;well, it just adds up to package that's hard to beat. Even if you can't extend your stay, the transit options and relative closeness to larger cities make it almost too easy to return.

Across the river to the north, Topsham is a sleepy town of 10,000 (2020). Along its riverbank, you'll find several fine eateries and a promenade with some great water views.

History
It was first settled by the Abenaki people, then occupied by English colonists in 1628 as Pejepscot, meaning "the long, rocky rapids part [of the river]". Relations between the peoples were not good; the fledgling town would be burned during King Philip's War and remained generally abandoned until around 1717. Around this time settlers from Boston and Portsmouth purchased the land and decided to give it another go. Colonist-Native relations remained hostile, and after a decade of warring the Abenaki were no more. Thus, the town of Brunswick was established by 1739.

The towns judicious location by the Androscoggin River allowed for growth and prosperity by way of the sea. This newfound wealth afforded the creation of Bowdoin College in 1794. The river provided power for mills, and nearby forests were harvested for raw materials. Brunswick pumped out an increasing array of goods such as textiles, furniture, and foodstuffs throughout the 19th century.

Today many old mills and sea captains' mansions remain, the ornate structures have been repurposed and transformed into art galleries, restaurants, museums, inns, and boutiques. A modern visitor to Brunswick will find the memories of the past tastefully blended with the imagination of today.

By car
The only interstate running close-by to Brunswick is I-295. Well paved and graded, this two-lane highway branches off of I-95 just north of Portland. If you're approaching from the south, exit at US Route 1 or if you're coming from the north, watch for the US Route 201 exit instead. Both routes will run you straight into the city's center. It's about a 30 minute ride from Portland, 35 minutes from Lewiston, and 40 minutes from Augusta.

To the east, Route 1 also provides access to the dozens of quaint Mid-Coast communities scattered along the shoreline. Two minor roads; ME-123 and ME-24, provide connections to Harpswell and the Harpswell Islands respectively.

By train

 * Route stopping at Brunswick:
 * Downeaster operating five or six trains in each direction daily between Brunswick and Boston with stops Freeport, Portland, Old Orchard Beach (seasonal), Saco, Wells, Dover, Durham, Exeter, Haverhill, and Woburn. Travel time to Brunswick from from Portland is 45 min ($3), and from Boston is 3.25 hours ($30).
 * Downeaster operating five or six trains in each direction daily between Brunswick and Boston with stops Freeport, Portland, Old Orchard Beach (seasonal), Saco, Wells, Dover, Durham, Exeter, Haverhill, and Woburn. Travel time to Brunswick from from Portland is 45 min ($3), and from Boston is 3.25 hours ($30).

Get around
Once in town, you'll find many of Brunswick's amenities concentrated along Maine Street, which basically runs you from the Androscoggin River in the north to Bowdoin College in the south. As such, the majority of all shops, restaurants, and museums can be accessed on foot.

If you want to get away from Maine Street and hit up nearby trails, having a car will really help out. You'll find a few options along Bath Road, which connects the modern and traditional city centers. On the off chance you didn't bring your own vehicle, rent one at the airport or use ride-hailing apps. Waiting times for pick-ups are a few minutes longer here than in the big city, but generally not a problem. Be wary of going too far into the sticks in a ride-hail; you could wind up without enough signal to request the return ride!

The only public transit to speak of is a single bus called The Brunswick Link. It runs once an hour during daylight hours and costs $2 a ride. The route is erratic, and it doesn't go anywhere interesting or particularly far; so for most visitors it's not recommended bothering with. It could be worth investigating, however, if you have mobility issues and don't have private transport.

There's little cycling infrastructure here to speak of, but on the plus side Maine's harsh winters afford wide shoulders on most roadways, and the traffic isn't that bad. Anyone with a modicum of road-riding experience should find themselves capable of navigating the streets of Brunswick.

See




Museums


The Arctic Museum and Pejepscot Historical Society are perhaps the two most worth your time. The Harriet Beecher Stowe House is also worth tacking on. It's rarely open, so most folks just breeze by to read a plaque or two while they take in the structure and its quaint neighborhood surroundings.



Outdoors
These trails often pull double duty as cross country skiing tracks during the colder months.

Events




Buy
It's tough for brick and mortar stores to stay open in this day and age, but more than a few hold their own here in Brunswick. Foot traffic is their savior, so of course you'll find almost all the town's shops scattered along Maine Street. This is a college town don't forget, so you'll find a surprising number of bookstores as you wander and browse. If you just can't seem to find your genre, pay a visit to the Bowdoin Bookstore located on campus.

If you just need the basics, drive to the modern amalgamation of chain stores at the intersection of Bath and Gurnet Roads. Here you'll find a Walmart, McDonald's, car repair shops and the like.



Eat
Brunswick could be the perfect environment for experienced restaurateurs to branch out, try new things and follow their passions. Boston? Too expensive to take risks. Portland? Too much competition to expand. But here in Brunswick, chefs are finding a place to make all their own. You'll find a much wider variety of cuisines here than your average small town; French and Italian, Greek, Japanese, Chinese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, and so on. The food scene here is really elevating here, and yes, that does mean prices are creeping up; but it doesn't mean the old standbys are going anywhere. The classic drive-in spots still get crowded, and their filling fare is still enjoyed by newcomer and stalwart alike.

Mid-range






Drink
Maine is known for its craft brews, and Brunswick certainly does its part to uphold that tradition. Sea Dog has by far the biggest name and widest distribution of the "varietals" in the area. However, along Bath Road and  out by the executive airport are generally considered to brew for more elevated palates. If you don't want to drive to your watering hole, you'll find nuzzled right in with the rest of the shops along Maine Street.



Connect
Yes it's Maine, but you're still in civilization. All major cell phone carriers should provide good reception in Brunswick. Providers like AT&T, Verizon, T-Mobile and Sprint should all have you in good hands. If for whatever reason you need free wi-fi, your hotel and most coffee shops should be able to cover you. If not, the libraries listed here will help you out.



Go next

 * Don't miss the Maine Maritime Museum, premier maritime museum with working exhibits just off Route 1 in Bath.
 * Phippsburg's salt-water beach at Popham Beach State Park is renowned for its wide, sandy beach, beautiful views and excellent swimming.
 * If L.L. Bean and their associated retailers in Freeport don't do it for you, turn instead to the woodsy trails bounded by ocean at Wolfe's Neck Woods State Park.
 * Way out on rural Georgetown island; visit Reid State Park’s 800-acre expanse, or Josephine Newman Sanctuary’s miles of winding trails.
 * Visit the unparalleled Eagle Island State Historic Site in scenic Casco Bay. If you can make it here, you'll never forget your trip.