Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park

Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park (Taman Nasional Bromo Tengger Semeru) is a national park in East Java. It is home to five volcanoes and a sand sea in the caldera of the ancient Tengger volcano, has a rugged, other-worldly landscape, and offers lots of hiking opportunities.



Understand
This national park is named after its two mountains, Mount Semeru (Gunung Semeru), the highest in Java at 3,676 m; Mount Bromo (Gunung Bromo), the most popular; and the Tengger people who inhabit the area.

Mount Semeru, also known as Mahameru ("Great Mountain"), is one of Indonesia's most active volcanoes. What stands out most about this mountain is that it erupts reliably: every 20 min or so, the volcano belches out a huge cloud of steam and smoke, sometimes interspersed with ash and stones. Climbing Mount Semeru requires some planning and a permit from the national park authority. The mountain is often closed due to its highly active nature.

Mount Bromo (2,329 m) is easily recognized as the entire top has been blown off and the crater inside constantly belches white sulphurous smoke. It sits inside the massive Tengger caldera (diameter approximately 10 km), surrounded by the Laut Pasir (Sea of Sand) of fine volcanic sand. The overall effect is unsettlingly unearthly, especially when compared to the lush green valleys all around the caldera. With more than 500,000 tourists a year, Bromo is full with tourists in school holidays and long holidays (at least 4 days), because about 95 percent of the tourists are domestic tourists, so avoid these times.

The major access point is Cemoro Lawang (also Cemara Lawang - blame the East Javanese accent!) at the northeastern edge of the caldera, but there are also trails from Tosari (northwest) and Ngadas (southwest). The village of Ngadisari, on the road from Probolinggo about 5.5 km before Cemoro Lawang, marks the entrance to the national park. Cemoro Lawang and Ngadisari are rather picturesque, with brightly-painted houses and flower beds outside.

Every year, starting in January, climbing Semeru is prohibited for several weeks (usually more than a month) to allow the vegetation to recover.

The Tenggerese
The area in and around the park is inhabited by the Tenggerese, one of the few significant Hindu communities left on the island of Java. The local religion is a remnant from the Majapahit era and therefore quite similar to that on Bali but with even more animist elements. The Tenggerese are believed to be descendents of the Majapahit princes and were driven into the hills after mass arrivals in the area of devoutly Muslim Madurese in the 19th century. These Madurese immigrants were labourers working for Dutch coffee plantation owners and the native Hindu people of the region soon found themselves outnumbered and either converted to Islam or fled to the inhospitable high mountain tops where they remain today.

The religion is quite low key though (certainly when compared to Bali) with the most visible manifestation of faith being the rather austere Poten temple in the sea of sand. The Tenggerese number about 600,000 and they reside in 30 villages scattered in and around the park with smaller communities elsewhere in East Java.

For many visitors, the sight of the angular-faced, sunburned, moustachioed Tenggerese wrapped in poncho-like blankets, trotting about on ponies with craggy mountains as the backdrop, more resembles Peru than Indonesia!

Landscape
If a landscape was ever needed to demonstrate the meaning of the phrase desolate beauty, then this is surely it. Rugged, barren volcanic peaks, gravel plains and that sea of sand. Truly unworldly.

The park also includes large areas which are very lush and green fed by rivers from the high tops. The medium elevations are clad with much thinner forest before this gives way to the barren plateau and peaks.

Flora and fauna
In the parts of the park which most interest visitors (the caldera and mountain tops) flora and fauna is limited by the general lack of vegetation. At lower elevations and away from the sea of sand, there are though lush green valleys with a typical tropical forest flora. The higher elevations before the tree line ends are largely clad with casuarina (cemara) forest.

Down in the valleys, a few leopard cats are present but rarely seen. Java rusa deer, muntjac, marbled cat and wild pig are amongst the mammals more likely to be glimpsed by casual visitors. This park is not so renowned for birdwatching as others in Java, but up on the plateau you often see hawks and eagles soaring over the valleys below.

Climate
Temperatures are refreshingly cool during the day but outright cold at night as temperatures can drop close to zero in the summer and are rarely much above 5°C in winter. Daytime temperatures anywhere in the park never exceed 20°C with low teens being normal.

It can rain at anytime and the mean average rainfall is 6,600 mm. Most of that comes in the wet season though - November to March. During periods of heavy rain in January and February especially, many parts of the park are inaccessible due to flooding. Landslips are also a real issue at these times.

The 2010/2011 eruptions
In late 2010 and early 2011 volcanic ash and incandescent material was thrown up by eruptive activity with a heavy rain of ejected volcanic material falling around the crater. Continuous eruptions on 21 January caused a thin ash fall mainly in the village area of Ngadirejo and Sukapura Wonokerto, Probolinggo district. The impact of the heavy rain and volcanic ash from eruptions during December 2010 and January 2011 resulted in disruption to normal activities and the local economy. The potential for long term environmental damage and health problems amongst the residents in the locality surrounding Mount Bromo was paramount at that time.

Due to high seasonal rainfall in January 2011 the potential for lahar (cold lava) and lava flow (hot lava) was elevated due to the deposits of volcanic ash, sand and other ejected material that thad built up. Activity was dominated by tremor vibration, eruption of ash plumes and ejection of incandescent material.

People living on the banks of the Perahu Ravine, Nganten Ravine and Sukapura River were alerted to the high possibility of lahar flows, especially if further heavy rainfalls occur in the area around Cemorolawang, Ngadisari and Ngadirejo. Eruptions and volcanic tremors were reported on 21 January and 22 January with activity subsiding on 23 January 2011.

Get in
Mount Bromo is perhaps the most accessible of Java's active volcanoes and for that reason it gets a lot of domestic tourists, often in package groups. It is also a popular destination for high school groups who camp in the area. Visitors seeking a quiet appreciation of the park should avoid major domestic holiday periods. That being said, this is a large park and most of the crowds are at a few specific viewpoints at a few specific times.

By plane

 * The nearest major airport is in Surabaya, three to four hours away by car (and more by bus). Surabaya is well served by regular domestic flights from Jakarta and Bali and some other countries in Asia.
 * Abdul Rachman Saleh Airport at Malang is a small regional airport with flights from Jakarta and Denpasar, Bali with access from here makes sense if you intend to enter the park via the Tumpang/Ngadas route.

By road
There are three established routes into the park.

The Probolinggo &rarr; Ngadisari Route (Cemoro Lawang and Mount Bromo)
The nearest large town is Probolinggo, on the north coast of Java about 45 km as the crow flies from the park (but it feels a lot further). This is by far the most common route used to access the park as it is the most straightforward (but not necessarily the most interesting). About 6 km west of Probolinggo on the main coastal highway, turn south at the village of Ketapang. From there the road snakes up for 40 km through Sukapura (not a bad idea to stay the night here as the hotels are good) to Ngadisari and finally Cemoro Lawang on the edge of the caldera. Total journey time about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

From Probolinggo Train Station:
 * The official way to get to the bus terminal is with a public bus, small and yellow, with a "D" on front. However, since the area around there is under mafia control (or perhaps the buses themselves?), the driver can be unwilling to stop there, instead dropping you off around a km (a 30 minute walk) away. You can try saying that your hotel is by the terminal to get closer.
 * You can get a Gojek or Grab, but you will need to walk a few hundred metres away from the train station, as drivers are unwilling to pick people up directly.
 * If there is a tour van parked at the train station, ask if they are going to Cemoro Lawang and if they have an extra seat. If you're lucky, they may take you for much less than a private driver and much faster than the public bus.

From Probolinggo Bus Terminal, green mini-buses (called PS, known locally as a "bison", capacity of 15 seats) to Cemoro Lawang wait outside the bus terminal: Rp525,000 in total (translates to Rp35,000 per passenger if you get all 15 people). Departure from the terminal bus station as soon as the bus is full or someone pays the full price. The bus will wait up to 2.5 hours to get enough passengers. Typically you can get them to leave earlier (and if you want your luggage to be stored in the bus rather than the roof you should) if you can agree with all the other passengers to split a higher price (everyone travelling is likely a tourist).

In July 2022 it is very difficult to find enough tourist to fill up the bison public bus. However it is still possible to get taxis for about Rp250,000.

However, the drivers can sometimes be less demanding for return trip back to Probolinggo, and can start out with fewer passengers on board.

The Pasuruan &rarr; Tosari Route
This route is only a little harder than the Probolinggo option and Pasuruan has the benefit of being closer to Surabaya. From Pasuruan on the main north coast road between Surabaya and Probolinggo, take the road 45 km south to Tosari up into the hills via Pastepan. Irregular buses ply this route or you can drive it in a regular car. From Tosari to Wonokitri it is another 3 km via a local bemo or on the back of a truck. From Wonokotri up to Bromo it is a really nice three-hour 14-km trek, so you do need to start very early if you want sunrise. Alternatively you should be able to hire a 4x4 with a driver for that journey. There is accommodation in both Tosari and Wonokitri.

The Malang &rarr; Tumpang Route
This route approaches Bromo from the west and is seldom used due to the lack of facilities. This is certainly the most off-the-beaten-path way to approach the park. Take a microbus from Arjosari bus station in Malang to Tumpang and then a 4WD vehicle or a heavy truck from Tumpang to Ngadas. There are no facilities to speak of at Ngadas but there is informal accommodation in family homes in the village. At Ranupani up on the top there is very simple homestay accommodation available - ask at the park office there. The route from Ngadas on to the caldera is interesting because it transverses the Sea of Sand and directly passes Mount Bromo. A dirt road leads across the flat bottom of the caldera, up to Jemplang on the southern rim and on to Ranupani where you should check in at the park office. You have to take a 4WD vehicle (unless you prefer to walk).

It is also possible to rent a motorbike and do the journey on your own. Renting a dirt bike in Malang to go to Bromo is preferable, as most of the route is uphill and narrow, with tight corners.

Fees and permits


The entrance fee to Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park is Rp217,500 for foreigners and Rp27,500 for Indonesians in weekdays, and Rp317,500 and Rp32,500 respectively in non-weekdays (Feb 2018).

As you enter Cemoro Lawang, a checkpoint charges Rp30,000 to enter the town.

Prior to entering the park, your car will be directed into a car park at the base of the mountain. Upon exiting your car, unless you are on a prearranged tour, middlemen will approach you to offer tickets for a jeep ride to see the sunrise and be taken to the Bromo crater. If you buy your ticket from them, they will hike the price and buy your ticket for you from the office which is directly behind them. Simply avoid them by going to the office and asking to purchase a voucher. Alternatively you can walk or take a motorcycle taxi, rates negotiable for motorcycle taxi.

If you intend to climb Mount Semeru (only for serious trekkers and often closed due to eruptive activity) you will need to apply for a permit in advance to Office of Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park, Jl. Raden Intan No. 6, PO Box 54, Malang, East Java,

Get around
From the village of Cemoro Lawang, you can easily hike up Mount Bromo and Mount Penanjakan and the best time to do this is pre-dawn. Villagers offer horseback rides to the top of Mount Bromo or go around in the caldera with tariff Rp100,000 to Rp150,000, depends on your haggle and the horse, but in off-season January till end of March the tariff is Rp100,000. You can also hire a jeep to take you around the area (about Rp350,000 for one jeep ride in the caldera). The whole area is a hiker's dream though - walk if you possibly can.

The park operates vehicular transport options, for the official prices of Rp350,000 for 2 locations; usually one of the Pananjakan viewpoints and the parking area towards Mount Bromo, or Rp750,000 for 4 locations. Be wary of hawkers offering "guided" trips for up to twice as much. The official driver provided are locals and usually have good knowledge. Feel free to ask drivers at any time to stop for photos or ask questions. Visitors may also bring their own vehicles; alternatively, guides can also be rented on motorbike to guide you around. A tour 4WD can fit up to 6 people.

The Bromo Caldera
The much photographed view of steaming Mount Bromo surrounded by the Sea of Sand, its rather serene neighbour Mount Batok and mighty Mount Semeru as the southern backdrop, is one of the great images of Indonesia.


 * The huge, unearthly moonscape of a caldera known as the Sea of Sand (Pasir Lautan).
 * The crater of is tinged with sulphur and always bubbling and smouldering. Due to eruptive activity, access may be limited. From Cemoro Lawang, head down the ramp into the caldera and towards the parking area near the Hindu temple (Poten) at the foot of the mountain. Behind the temple, take the muddy track, on foot or on horseback, a steep 250-step staircase up to the edge of the crater. There's a ledge at the top with a railing in poor condition. Gaze into the steaming crater, while trying not to huff a whiff of volcanic gas. A trail leaves the ledge to the east, along the meter-wide crater rim.
 * (2,440 m) is a brown volcano at the north centre of the caldera. Unlike the other nearby peaks it is no longer active and actually has some vegetation growing on it, mostly casuarina (cemara) trees that somehow manage to survive even on volcanic ash.
 * The savannah fields (padang savanna) around towards the southern side of the main Bromo crater. A tour around to the savannah fields is often included as part of a trip in a hired jeep. Alternatively, one can hike around to the fields (around 5 km from main Bromo starting point at Cemoro Lawang).
 * To the north of the caldera are several viewpoints of Mount Bromo. These are popular places to watch the sunrise. Each viewpoint has a similar sightline of Mount Bromo. As you go higher up, the view becomes marginally better and exponentially more crowded. Consider whether you prefer the perfect postcard photo, or prefer serenity.
 * (2,770 m), also called Viewpoint #1, is the highest easily-accessible viewpoint, and hence popular with jeeps and even tour buses. At the peak lies an antenna array (easily spotted from miles around), many shops, a mosque and several "real" buildings. The viewpoint is crowded for the sunrise at 05:00, but is nearly empty an hour later. Ancient Javanese Hindu texts tell of how Bromo-Penanjakan-Semeru (or Mahameru as it was then) was the spiritual axis of the universe and the point of all creation. The view from Penanjakan will explain why: it is breathtaking. This is where most of those iconic picture postcard views are taken from.
 * , about 1 km before Penanjakan, with a similar view but fewer crowds. There are several additional viewpoints on the hiking trail switchbacks below the main viewing platform.
 * , also called Viewpoint #2, is an excellent way to get a stunning view of the caldera without the crowds. Head northwest from Cemoro Lawang (past the Cemoro Indah hotel) for 6 km, passing Tenngerese farms and fields. The paved road eventually turns into a twisty mountain trail that ends with a flight of stairs on the right, and the viewpoint (with concrete shelter) is at the top.
 * , also called Viewpoint #2, is an excellent way to get a stunning view of the caldera without the crowds. Head northwest from Cemoro Lawang (past the Cemoro Indah hotel) for 6 km, passing Tenngerese farms and fields. The paved road eventually turns into a twisty mountain trail that ends with a flight of stairs on the right, and the viewpoint (with concrete shelter) is at the top.

Elsewhere

 * The wonderfully coloured and immaculately tidy Tenggerese houses. The Tenggerese culture is unique and an effort to understand these fine people, where they have come from and how they live in this sometimes difficult environment, will be rewarded.


 * Madakaripura Waterfall. These spectacular falls in the foothills of the park are easily reached by anyone visiting with their own transport. From Sukapura take the north-heading road towards Tongas and after about 6 km close to the village of Sapih the turning to the falls is signposted on your left. Continue down this small road to reach the car park for the falls. There are often lots of hawkers in the car park waiting to hire or sell you umbrellas to protect from the spray. There are actually seven waterfalls here some of which drop over the access path during the wet season, so an umbrella is not as silly as it sounds. Legend abounds here: bathing in the chill waters is said to be an elixir of life, the water is regarded as holy by the Tenggerese and is used in their important ceremonies, and the great Majapahit prime minister Gajah Madah is reputed to have meditated here. A very attractive and relaxing spot.
 * Lakes Ranupani and Ranu Regulo. These small, serene and always misty lakes are adjacent to the village of Ranupani on the south side of the crater. The village is the usual start point for ascending Mount Semeru and there is a park office here. Most visitors to this side of the crater will be happy though to take in the beauty of the small highland lakes and leave climbing Mount Semeru to the professionals. Ranupani is often regarded as a mystical village by East Javanese standards and the rather ghostly lakes only add to the feelings of spirituality here. If this side of the crater appeals to you, it should be possible to arrange some simple home stay accommodation in Ranupani - ask at the park office.

Do


When timing any activities in the area, bear in mind that sunset is soon after 17:00 and sunrise is correspondingly early at around 05:30. This means you will usually need to get up by 03:30 or so to get to a watchpoint in time for dawn.

Hiking
For the keen hiker, this park is a dream come true and you can make your own schedule. There are many possibilities once you are away from the more popular area at Mount Bromo. Maps and information about the area are available at one of the many official locations.
 * (Gunung Semeru) can be climbed over 2 days but it is a venture for serious trekkers only and requires a high level of physical fitness. A permit must obtained in advance and would be climbers should be very aware that the mountain will be off-limits during periods of eruptive activity. This is a very active volcano. If you do decide you are up for this you should be able to find a guide to go at least part of the way with you at the park office in Ranupani. That office is also the best source of information for an assessment of the current state of the mountain and for hooking up with serious climbers from around the world.
 * Hike to a sunrise viewpoint. A trail connects Cemoro Lawang with each viewpoint up to Penanjakan. With good shoes and a headlamp you can see the sunrise on foot for free.
 * Cemoro Lawang to Seruni (Viewpoint 2): 60-90 minutes
 * From Cemara Indah Hotel, head northwest along the paved road for 6 km, passing Tenngerese farms and fields, eventually turning into a twisty mountain road.
 * Where the road ends, go up a flight of stairs on the right, and the viewpoint (with concrete shelter) is at the top.
 * Seruni (Viewpoint 2) to Penanjakan (Viewpoint 1): 45-60 minutes
 * From the concrete viewing platform, a rough trail continues onto Mount Penanjakan. The first few meters are steep and deeply eroded, but it quickly becomes a proper hiking trail the rest of the way to King Kong viewpoint.
 * Follow the paved walking path from King Kong Hill to the road, and walk 1 km up to Penanjakan.
 * Return to Cemoro Lawang: 60-90 minutes
 * The turnoff from the road to King Kong Hill is not well marked.
 * Hike into the caldera. You can hike down the jeep trail, but you will be charged the steep entrance fee. "Secret" hiking trails exist that bypass this entrance. The main path is well marked on Maps.me and Gaia. At Cemera Indiah Hotel, find the narrow dirt alley along a fence that leads to the back of the hotel and the caldera rim. Go down a steep, muddy, switchbacked trail until you emerge on the caldera floor. You can then walk across the Sea of Sand to the Poten Temple and the Bromo crater. The walk from Cemoro Lawang to the crater will take about 60 minutes. Most tours enter the caldera after dawn and leave by 09:00, so if you get there earlier or later, the sites will not be crowded.
 * From Argosari in Senduro District, Lumajang, hike to a hill called B-29, which is a good place to take panoramic photos of long sandy beaches with Mount Bromo at the background.

Events

 * The Upacara Kasodo (also Kasada) is held every year at the full moon of the 12th month of the Tenggerese calendar and it is the most demonstrable Tenggerese religious ceremony. The Tenggerese invoke the approval of the gods to ensure a successful harvest, to be spared from any natural calamities and to be cured of disease. Selected Tenggerese men climb down to precarious ledges on the Bromo crater wall and catch the offerings thrown down by their excited neighbours above. A scramble ensues for possession of the offerings and whole thing is both exciting and rather terrifying as it is not unknown in all the mayhem for a "catcher" to slip off his ledge and fall. You can check the date of the next Upacara Kasodo at the East Java Tourism Office in Surabaya (+62 31 567 7219).

Buy
The most popular local product, at least based on the number of hawkers selling them, appears to be the Bromo hat, a colorful wooly hat with Bromo embroidered on it.

Scarfs and extra warm clothing are also popular and useful if you are not prepared for the cold mountain air.

Eat
Every lodge and hotel has an attached restaurant and there are few independent eateries of any note.

There are simple roadside warungs though selling the regular basic Indonesian dishes and Rp2,000 mugs of hot Javanese coffee (kopi panas). There is no nightlife but all restaurants are open at 03:00 as that is when everybody wakes to see the sun rise.



Drink
Evenings in the park are quiet. A few beers with fellow travellers are in order.

The mulled wine served at some places in the evening seems to be heated Tuak (a palm wine) with some local spices added. Only those with the strongest constitution should even consider this and frankly, it is not very nice.

Make sure you always have enough water with you during the day as it is deceptively easy to de-hydrate here, despite the fresh climate.

Lodging


There is plenty of accommodation around the park. Most facilities at Cemoro Lawang (very conveniently located with dramatic views because it is perched on the edge of the caldera) and elsewhere close to the caldera are somewhat basic so visitors looking for more up market accommodation should stay in Sukapura or Tosari.

Sukapura




Camping
Camping is certainly possible in the park but you must register at the Cemoro Lawang gate (where there is an adjacent campsite). There are many sources of safe, fresh water in the park - ask locally.

Potential campers should be very aware of how cold it gets here though and be thoroughly prepared for that. Heavy duty sleeping bags are essential.

Stay healthy
Temperatures on Mount Bromo are refreshingly cool during the day (although sunburn is still a real danger), but very cold at night, as temperatures can drop to zero in the summer and are rarely much above 5°C in winter. Some of the cheaper places to stay may not provide adequate blankets or heating, so come prepared. If needed, you can rent jackets and hats at Cemoro Lawang and at the Penanjakan viewpoint for about Rp10,000.

There are cases of malaria each year in the lower foothills of the park and any visitor planning a long stay or to camp in this area should take necessary precautions. This is not though a problem for those visiting Mount Bromo or the high plateau only.

Stay safe
Bromo is an active volcano, and Semeru is a very active volcano. In June 2004, two tourists were killed at Bromo by rocks flung from a sudden explosion. In November 2014, one person died after being hit by a one-metre boulder during a climb from Kalimati to the Semeru peak. Mount Semeru started erupting on 4 December 2021 and, exactly a year later, erupted again on 4 December 2022, with casualties and damage to villages.

A vulcanology body has advised Mount Semeru climbers should climb as far as Kalimati only, considering Semeru's eruptions.

The Smithsonian Institute's Volcanic Activity Report keeps an eye on both volcanoes in the park.

Past the steps up to the Mount Bromo viewing area, the path along the rim is only about 1 metre wide in places, on soft soil with a sheer drop into the crater. Be careful, make sure you have a flashlight for any pre-dawn climb and always have your wits about you.

It gets very cold up on the high tops at night, probably colder than anywhere in Indonesia outside of the glacial highlands of Papua. Be suitably prepared for nighttime temperatures not far above zero.

Go next

 * Malang is the cultural capital of East Java.
 * Banyuwangi for ferries to Bali, more national parks and the Ijen Crater.
 * Surabaya for flights elsewhere in Indonesia and to Singapore and Malaysia.