Brașov

Brașov (pronounced Bra-shov in Romanian) is a city in Transylvania, Romania. It's set in the Carpathian Mountains in the centre of the country, from Bucharest. It's mostly a modern industrial city with a population of about 250,000, but the reason to visit is the well-preserved Old Town. It's also an alternative base for skiing at the nearby resort of Poiana Brașov.

Understand
In the Middle Ages Transylvania had Hungarian rulers, who brought in Saxon settlers. They developed the walled town known in German as Kronstadt and in Hungarian as Brassó. Later development was further out so this old centre was largely preserved. It has good tourist facilities and is well worth an extended stay: perhaps because it lacks an airport, it's not as well known to westerners as similar old towns such as Sibiu and Cluj Napoca. Shop, restaurant and hotel staff often speak English and German.

For the visitor therefore, the core of Brașov is the old town (largely pedestrianised) and adjoining Șchei district. The modern city is to the east and north, with a "centrul nou" or civic centre, and low-rise blocks sprawling to the bus and railway stations and beyond. To avoid ambiguity, directions here refer to the old town centre.

The Tourist Information Centre is in the Town History Museum on Piața Sfatului (Council Square), open daily 09:00-17:00.

Bring warm clothing, the mountain setting means that Brașov is often wet and cold, especially at night.

By train
From Bucharest Gara de Nord there are 13 direct trains daily between 06:00 and 21:00, taking about 2 hr 40 min (49 lei, Sep 2018). Travel via Bucharest from Bulgaria, Moldova and Turkey.

From Budapest Keleti there are three direct trains daily (one daytime & two overnight sleepers) via Arad, Deva and Sibiu, taking about 13 hours. One of the sleepers is a direct train from Vienna Hbf. A couple of other connections are possible from Budapest Nyugati via Oradea, taking 16 hours.

There are direct trains from Sibiu (6/day, 3-4 hours), Constanța (one direct, others via Bucharest) and Cluj Napoca (4/day, 7 hours).

The passenger train operator is CFR Călători. The is 3 km north of the old centre, at the foot of Bvd Victoriei. It's a tired communist-era hall, but there are ticket kiosks, ATMs, cafes and (downstairs) a left-luggage store open 24/7 (5 lei per day small bag, 10 lei large). More food kiosks outside, and city bus stops - take #4 or #51 for the old centre. Next door is Autogara 1.

By car
Brașov has good road connections, as it's in a valley where several routes across the hills converge. Main highways are:
 * E60 runs south past Ploiesti and Otopeni airport to Bucharest. Towards north, it leads to Sighisoara, Cluj-Napoca, Oradea and Budapest.
 * E68 runs west to Sibiu, Deva, Arad and Timișoara into Hungary.
 * E574 runs north to Romania's Moldavia region, Iași, and into Ukraine and Moldova. It runs south to Pitesti and Craiova.

Ring ahead to your accommodation for advice on parking, which is often difficult in Brașov. In winter you're required to have winter tyres: in this hilly region police often check, with stiff fines for non-compliance.

By bus
Buses run every hour or two to Sibiu (2 hr 30 min), Cluj Napoca (4 hr 30 min) and Bucharest (3 hr). The Bucharest buses also stop at Otopeni airport.

The Bucharest buses run from Autogara 1 (also called Codreana), next to the railway station. Most other inter-city buses run from, at the foot of Strada Avram Iancu, 4 km north of the old centre. (It's sometimes called Stadion Tineretului for the adjacent sports stadium.)

For timetables and fares see Autogari.

On foot
The old town, and westward extension of Șchei, are compact and walkable - indeed they're mostly pedestrian precinct. The new town and burbs stretch a long way. Bike rental is available in the central square Piața Sfatului, 4 lei per hour.

By bus
Buses in Brașov are run by RATBv (Regia Autonomă de Transport Brașov). They mostly run weekdays 05:30 to midnight, weekends 06:30 to 23:00; there's no night service. Most bus stops have real-time digital displays of what's coming. Google Maps usually plans perfect routes via public transport in Brașov.

The biggest city bus interchange near the old city is. It is on the north edge of the old centre; if you travel a lot around the city, prepare to arrive to and depart from here lots of times.

Tickets

 * For tourists and visitors, a recommended option (least hassle) is to pay using the 24pay smartphone app. You should scan the QR code by the driver with the app to get the ticket.
 * Alternatively, you can by paper tickets (from the kiosks or ticket machines at the main bus stops - if there aren't any, look for any nearby newsagent kiosk or super/mini market - they'll often display a sign "bilete"). Validate the ticket after boarding the bus.
 * A standard ticket is 5 lei, which can be used for 2 x 50 minutes with any number of transfers. Not valid on bus 20.
 * A one-way ticket to Poiana Brașov (bus 20) costs 6 lei.
 * If you stay long-term, consider buying a one-month pass (85 lei, unlimited travels on all bus lines, including 20).

Lines
For visitors, the most relevant bus lines:
 * Bus 4 from the railway station to Piața Sfatului in old centre then Șchei and Tocile, then loops back again
 * Bus 50 from the valley SW of town through Piața Unirii in Șchei, round old centre via Livada Poștei then out again SW
 * Bus 20 from Livada Poștei to Poiana Brașov - at the kiosk, say where you're going for the appropriate ticket
 * Bus A1 from the railway station to Brașov Airport

Some other useful lines are:
 * If you're going to Autogara 2, you can use buses 12, 15, 28 (from Livada Poștei) or 23, 23B (from the railway station)
 * To reach Coresi Mall (the biggest mall in the city), you can use buses 2 (from Livada Poștei) or 8 (from the railway station)
 * To reach the zoo or Aventura park, you can use buses 17 (from Livada Poștei) or 35 (from the railway station)
 * To go hiking in Piatra Mare mountains (including Seven Ladders canyon), use bus 17B (from the railway station; runs once every 1-2 hours)

Taxis
Taxis make sense if you're struggling with luggage between bus and railway station and old town, reckon 3 lei per km. A trip from the train station to the old town should not cost more than 20 lei. See Taximetre for operators and rates. There are many taxi hyenas at the railway station so be careful (see more at Stay Safe). Uber is available in Brașov.

Old Town
In the Middle Ages, Transylvania's Hungarian rulers brought in Saxon settlers, to defend and develop the area. They built up the walled city of Kronstadt, which today forms the Old Town of Brașov. Most of the city sights are here, in the pedestrianised zone centred on Council Square (Piața Sfatului) and along the spine of Republicii street. Main sights include the Piața Sfatului, the Black Church, and the former Council House. Around the walled city, you can see the Șchei and Catherine Gates, Weavers' Bastion, Black Tower, and White Tower. To the south lies Șchei district, described below. Stroll at random, or follow the route suggested in the Brasov cultural itinerary, or join one of the free guided walking tours run by Guided-Brasov.com.

Note: if you wish to take photos in any museum, you must pay an extra fee (inquire when buying tickets). In the Black Church, you cannot take photos.


 * Poarta Șchei is the street leading down to the gates of the old town. Along it (by No 19) find Rope Street (Strada Sforii), a picturesque alley, and the Beth Israel Synagogue (entrance by No 29, open M-F 09:00-16:00, 5 lei). Old Town ends at the Șchei & St Catherine Gates. The medieval entrance and tollgate was St Catherine's Gate, which you could barely fit a horse and cart through. In 1828 it was replaced by the wider Șchei Gate and blocked off. A well-preserved section of wall runs east then north from here, with three bastions (Weavers', Spinners' opposite the cable-car station, and Drapers' to the east).
 * The White Tower and the Black Tower  on the northern hillside. The view from the Black Tower balcony is especially nice and usually included in most Brașov guide books.
 * Looming over the old town is Brașov Citadel (Cetatea Brașovului). Enjoy the stroll and view from the hill but you can't visit within.
 * Poarta Șchei is the street leading down to the gates of the old town. Along it (by No 19) find Rope Street (Strada Sforii), a picturesque alley, and the Beth Israel Synagogue (entrance by No 29, open M-F 09:00-16:00, 5 lei). Old Town ends at the Șchei & St Catherine Gates. The medieval entrance and tollgate was St Catherine's Gate, which you could barely fit a horse and cart through. In 1828 it was replaced by the wider Șchei Gate and blocked off. A well-preserved section of wall runs east then north from here, with three bastions (Weavers', Spinners' opposite the cable-car station, and Drapers' to the east).
 * The White Tower and the Black Tower  on the northern hillside. The view from the Black Tower balcony is especially nice and usually included in most Brașov guide books.
 * Looming over the old town is Brașov Citadel (Cetatea Brașovului). Enjoy the stroll and view from the hill but you can't visit within.
 * The White Tower and the Black Tower  on the northern hillside. The view from the Black Tower balcony is especially nice and usually included in most Brașov guide books.
 * Looming over the old town is Brașov Citadel (Cetatea Brașovului). Enjoy the stroll and view from the hill but you can't visit within.

Șchei district
If you're weren't Saxon, then you weren't allowed to live in medieval walled city Kronstadt, so the Romanians mostly lived in Șchei hamlet, south of the gate. Here too lived Bulgarians brought in to solve a labour shortage, who were nicknamed "Șchei" (probably from Latin "sclavis", meaning Slavs). The hamlet grew into the township of Șcheii Brașovului, centred on St Nicholas Church and Piața Unirii. It's now a charming area to stroll or stay.



The district continues southwest into the valley, past Tocile transport interchange, to Holy Trinity Church (Biserica Sf. Treime). Then Șchei peters out as the dead-end lane ascends towards Solomon's cliffs, a popular hiking area.

Further out

 * The lane SW from Schei, a dead-end for motor traffic, used to be the cart-track over the hills to Poiana Brașov and beyond. It climbs the valley through limestone karst scenery, the most prominent feature being
 * The lane SW from Schei, a dead-end for motor traffic, used to be the cart-track over the hills to Poiana Brașov and beyond. It climbs the valley through limestone karst scenery, the most prominent feature being
 * The lane SW from Schei, a dead-end for motor traffic, used to be the cart-track over the hills to Poiana Brașov and beyond. It climbs the valley through limestone karst scenery, the most prominent feature being

Do

 * Cerbul de Aur (Golden Stag) music festival. In 2018 it celebrated 50 years of existence (though only 18 editions were held in this period). It is held in the main square, bringing lots of pop artists and musicians (but also cluttering the square with tons of heavy iron scaffolding and stage for about one month).
 * Organ concerts at the Black Church. June, September: Tu 18:00-18:30; July, August: Tu Th Sa 18:00-18:30, ticket price 8 lei
 * Climb around in the climbing park Aventura. Tracks range from very easy to very difficult and the entrance fee is about 30 lei for one person. You can get there with several buses: line 17 (city centre), line 35 (trainstation) and line 21.
 * Climb in the biggest Romanian indoor climbing Gym Natural High . Tracks range from very easy to very difficult. Location: str. Carpatilor, inside METROM industrial zone.
 * Swim in two water parks: Paradisul Acvatic (it's open all the year) and Aqua Park.
 * Hiking and trekking - Brașov is surrounded by scenic hills and mountains, ideal for exploring. And the woodlands and limestone slopes support almost 40 species of orchids.
 * Skiing - see page for Poiana Brașov ski resort, 10 km away.
 * Climb around in the climbing park Aventura. Tracks range from very easy to very difficult and the entrance fee is about 30 lei for one person. You can get there with several buses: line 17 (city centre), line 35 (trainstation) and line 21.
 * Climb in the biggest Romanian indoor climbing Gym Natural High . Tracks range from very easy to very difficult. Location: str. Carpatilor, inside METROM industrial zone.
 * Swim in two water parks: Paradisul Acvatic (it's open all the year) and Aqua Park.
 * Hiking and trekking - Brașov is surrounded by scenic hills and mountains, ideal for exploring. And the woodlands and limestone slopes support almost 40 species of orchids.
 * Skiing - see page for Poiana Brașov ski resort, 10 km away.
 * Skiing - see page for Poiana Brașov ski resort, 10 km away.

Learn
Știi să vorbești românește? If your answer's "duh?" then you can learn Romanian at the Language School on Strada Iuliu Maniu 41A, 2nd floor.

Buy
The biggest shopping mall is Coresi. Others are Unirea Shopping Center, Eliana Mall, STAR, and the shops near the big Carrefour near Calea Bucuresti. For food and regular shopping the hypermarkets (Carrefour, Metro, Selgros, Kaufland) are better value. They're edge of town on the road to Bucharest, from Livada Poștei take Bus 17 and from the railway station Bus 35. A good market for local produce is Astra (Piața Astra), SE off Uranus Bvd, take Bus 6 from Livada Poștei.

Eat
Since there are lots of tourists, there's more upmarket choice, but mid-range prices are higher.

Budget

 * Fornetti is a Hungarian pastry chain with many outlets, eg at the railway station and downtown. They sell small pastry pieces stuffed with cheese or jam. Prices are fair and the quality is very high.
 * Panini - Also on 15 Noiembrie (nr. 40) is a 24/7 fast food restaurant, with great sandwiches for incredibly low prices.
 * STAR supermarket, nearby at Strada Nicolae Bălcescu 62, has decent cheap food. Just around the corner is Kebab House, serving doner kebap non-stop.
 * STAR supermarket, nearby at Strada Nicolae Bălcescu 62, has decent cheap food. Just around the corner is Kebab House, serving doner kebap non-stop.

Sleep
Ignore the touts at the railway & bus stations, who'll offer an overpriced ditch.

Stay safe
Brașov is very safe for visitors, and the main tourist areas are well-policed. As in most Romanian cities, be on your guard against pickpockets and scams.
 * Keep your valuables close, especially in the crowded tourist areas in the city center, on buses, and in restaurants
 * If you plan to get a taxi, make sure it belongs to a company, and prices and phone number are written on the door. Especially avoid taxis that stand in the first line (near the sidewalk) on the right as you exit the train station.
 * Exchange bureaux have a bad reputation for scams: see Romania article. Shop around for decent rates: the exchanges by the bus & railway stations have poor rates, and for less common currencies such as Canadian or Australian dollars the rate will be poor everywhere.

The forests around Brașov have a large population of bears, and sometimes they approach town to feed from dumpsters. This is the Eurasian Brown Bear, Ursus arctos arctos, which will eat any sheep left unguarded but seldom attacks humans unless it feels threatened. Keep your distance, and in the woods make noise so you don't startle them.

Cope
Most shops and businesses accept credit and debit cards. For cash, there are many ATMs: it's best to use those next to a bank, and during regular business hours, so you've some recourse if it doesn't pay out. The ATM should also display a support phone number: note this before entering your PIN.

Currency exchange is best done at a major bank, such as the BCR, BNR, BT, or Raiffeisen Bank - they're efficient, honest, and trade all the main currencies. You'll need your passport. BCR headquarters on 15 Noiembrie Street has an exchange ATM that converts EUR, USD, GBP and CHF into lei at the bank's official rates and is available 24/7.

Connect
Brașov and its approach roads have 4G from all Romanian carriers. As of Aug 2022, there is patchy 5G cover from Digi, Orange and Vodafone.

Go next

 * Easy day trips from Brașov include:


 * Râșnov with its great fortress and abundant history is only 16 km southwest. Take train or frequent bus.
 * Bran, another 10 km further, has a striking castle, but is tourist-trippy and overplays the Dracula connection.
 * Poiana Brașov is a big ski resort 10 km above Brașov. Frequent buses, lots of tourist facilities.
 * Prejmer is a village 12 km east with a fortified church.
 * Feldioara fortress is 15 km north.


 * Further away:


 * Făgăraș, to the north, has a fortress, and a little way beyond it is Sâmbăta de Sus fortress and monastery
 * Sighișoara is a medieval fortified town teetering on a hilltop, and birthplace of Dracula. It's 120 km north and reached by train or bus. With your own transport, detour along the way to see Hoghiz, Racoș, Rupea and Viscri.
 * Sibiu is the star attraction of Transylvania, a splendidly preserved medieval city, about 3 hours away by bus or train.
 * Heading south, Pitești (120 km) is the last town that feels "Transylvanian". It's reached via Bran and the Rucar pass across the mountains. On the way, detour to Curtea de Argeș, an old Wallachian fortress.
 * Further south, you come down to the flat fields of Wallachia, and the highway races away to Bucharest.