Bouzigues

Bouzigues is a lovely coastal town in Hérault, southern France. It is known above all for its oyster production and numerous quality seafood restaurants. Bouzigues can be thought of as a seaside resort without the resort, with very limited accommodation, and not too many tourists. It is a perfect getaway for anyone who wants to enjoy a slower pace of life.

Orientation
Bouzigues is on the north side of a large tidal salt water lagoon called the Étang de Thau, which extends 5 km south to the Mediterranean Sea. The sea water flows freely into the lagoon, fish and boats can come and go as they please, and the lagoon's shoreline is tidal. However, the étang is sheltered from the worst of the winter storms, and Bouzigues still enjoys the atmosphere of a traditional fishing port and the sunny and warm climate that draws so many to the south of France. The urban core is a dense medieval old town, with narrow streets and warmly pastel-coloured houses of two and three storeys, while further out are a few streets of modern villas. At the west end of the seafront are the shellfish industry's warehouses and stores, and at the other end, the cute little harbour. From here, you can gaze over miles of oyster beds across to the distant holiday complexes of Sète and Marseillan, while the Mediterranean scrub behind is scattered with vineyards and the odd olive grove.

The town's portentous title of oyster capital of France (capitale de l'huître) belies the fact that Bouzigues is for most of the day a small, sleepy community, with only around 1,700 residents. It only really comes alive just before lunchtime, when busloads of hungry travellers arrive to promenade up and down the waterfront in search of the perfect fruits de mer. Then, between 12:00 and 14:00, each restaurant is packed with people chowing down on oysters, mussels, razor-clams, prawns, sea bass and red mullet. Lunch service over, visitors gradually disperse, and Bouzigues drifts comfortably back into its peaceful ways. With the crowds gone, you can soak up sun on its two beautiful beaches, wander its shady medieval backstreets and keep track of the comings and goings of the marina - if not in solitude, at least with the feeling you are privy to a cleverly-guarded secret.

History
The name "Bouzigues" comes from the Occitan Bosigas, which means "fallow land" or "wasteland". Indeed, the area's early settlers seemed to live entirely from fishing and gathering wild fruits, and therefore did not need to cultivate their land. These fisherfolk were troglodytes - meaning they lived in caves hewn from the soft calcareous rock by winter and in tents by summer. Historians estimate the caves as being where the row of restaurants now stands on the seafront promenade, and indeed some of the buildings there are still troglodytic. Although cultivation wouldn't happen for centuries, oysters had been a major part of the local diet since the time of the Phoenicians, enjoyed alongside many of the same natural delicacies you can sample today.

The first vineyards were planted in the 15th century, but the bulk of Bouzigues' inhabitants remained fishermen. Nonetheless, by 1670, trade had increased to such a level that the town needed its own port rather than using that of Sète. The local baron, Timothée de Geoffroy, rented out a parcel of land to the town for the creation of a port, charging the generous rent of two hens per annum! The admittedly modest harbour was constructed as a whole town endeavour, with wealthier citizens providing building materials and the cattle to pull wagons and keep everyone fed, and the poorer inhabitants working as labourers. This port was sited not in the current location, but at what is now place du Général de Gaulle. The 21st century visitor will still notice the square is on two levels; the raised platform was the original quayside. The 100 metres or so of town to the south was reclaimed from the étang in 1820, and the port moved to its current site.

Surprisingly, oyster and mussel farming was only pioneered at the turn of the 20th century, and then only as a tentative, and at that time utterly unique, small-scale attempt for fishermen to have a more dependable catch. The only other way to get oysters, clams and coquilles Saint-Jacques was to dive up to eight metres below the surface, with no scuba gear of course. After the Second World War, the marine farming industry took off and most fishermen switched professions until the shellfish farms were at the scale you see today. The Bouzigues method of oyster and mussel culture, growing the shellfish on ropes suspended below the water, has since been copied all over the world.

Tourist information
The Musée de l'Étang de Thau has a small with English spoken and plenty of brochures and discounts for attractions in the region, so make sure you pop in near the start of your visit. The main Office de Tourisme for the area is in Mèze, by the marina.

Get in
Bouzigues is located on the northern bank of the Étang de Thau, between the larger towns of Mèze (6 km) and Balaruc-les-Bains (8 km). Sète is 14 km away, while the regional capital Montpellier is around 30 km distant. The town is therefore within easy reach of other transport options, notably Sète which receives trains from all parts of France, as well as ferries from Morocco. Montpellier Méditerranée Airport is 35 km away; if driving, take the D66 from the airport up to the A709 autoroute, and merge onto that road following signs for Barcelona and Béziers. After a few minutes, you will pass through a toll gate and join the A9. Exit at junction 33 and follow signs for Bouzigues.

By car
The busy D613 is a local link road from junction 33 of the A9 autoroute, the main coastal motorway linking to Montpellier, Nîmes and beyond to the east and Béziers, Narbonne and other points south and west. Daytrippers should consider arriving early, as parking spaces are limited and fill up fast as midday approaches. The main is free to use and serves the harbour and museum. On-street parking is possible, but not encouraged.

By campervan
There is a designated on chemin de la Catonnière, just off the roundabout labelled Bouzigues - ouest. This is the third exit for Bouzigues when coming from the A9, or the first when coming from Mèze. This parking area is about 15 minutes' walk from the town centre.

By bus


Hérault Transport buses link Bouzigues several times a day to nearby towns and cities, and are excellent value for money with single fares as low as €1.60 for an adult, or €2.60 with a Montpellier tram ride included (Dec 2020). Two buses from Montpellier leave from suburban stations on the city's excellent tram network; the 603 leaves from Saint-Jean-de-Védas (tram line 2), and the 604 leaves from Sabines (also line 2). For Bouzigues, they stop at (by a roundabout on the main D613 bypass). The only pitfall is that this is around a 1 km walk outside of Bouzigues; the town is easy to find, but the distance is not really convenient for people with limited mobility.

By boat
With the étang being linked to the open sea at Sète and the start of the Canal du Midi at Marseillan, Bouzigues is a popular stopping point for touring boats, although like with parking, space is limited to about 10 of the typical boats used on the canal.



By bike
While the direct railway line to Bouzigues is long gone, its route is not, and there is still a very high quality green way cycle track (voie verte piste cyclable) running parallel along the coast from Balaruc-les-Bains and Balaruc-le-Vieux, through Bouzigues, and then onwards to Loupian and Mèze. The track links to other routes at both its ends, so could feasibly be used as part of a bike tour of the wider area.

Get around
Everything you'll want to see is within a short walk from the port, though some people prefer to discover the town on their bikes. Really though, the narrow alleys and winding streets of old Bouzigues and the picturesque seafront will entice even those stuffed to bursting with seafood to get up and explore.

If you wish to use Bouzigues as a base to tour the wider area, then you will ideally need access to your own wheels, as the bus services, while cheap and reasonably frequent, offer a fairly limited set of direct destinations (basically Mèze, Montpellier, and a handful of local villages). Driving and cycling are easy and popular ways to get around the Thau Basin.

See
Most of the enjoyment you will get from being in Bouzigues will just be down to mooching around the seafront, taking in the views, listening to the local chatter and smelling cooking fish and ozone mingling in the salty air.











Do

 * Bouzigues has two small beaches:


 * Both beaches are officially dog-free as advertised by large signs, but France is a place where personal preference nearly always trumps official dictat, so don't be surprised to find yourself sharing the beach or even the water with family pets. Topless swimming and sunbathing is allowed and commonplace on both beaches, but full nudity is forbidden. There are no lifeguards, so you swim at your own risk.



Explore the étang by boat
It couldn't be easier to get out onto the water. There is no fee to enter, navigate, or fish in the Étang de Thau, as it is legally part of the sea. A boat is a great vantage point from which to watch aquatic birdlife, and the pleasant climate and calm, sheltered waters make it a joy to explore. At an average depth of only 4 m, it is also a relatively safe and easy place to swim and snorkel off-shore.

There are, however, some important rules you need to follow, in order to help protect the étang's fragile environment and respect the livelihoods of those who depend on it. Just like on the road, there are maximum speeds which must be observed and areas which are off-limits. In general, the étang's speed limit is 25 knots, however within 300 m of the shoreline and 100 m of the shellfish farms, this is reduced to 5 knots. You may not pilot a boat into the shellfish farms; the only legal way to access the farms is to take a guided tour. Be mindful of your impact on nature: it is illegal to dump used water, chemicals, or human waste into the étang, and it is recommended that you carry any belongings in heavy bags or boxes, as plastic bags can all too easily blow away. Further information can be obtained from the local government's website.

Fishing is also heavily regulated: it is illegal to fish certain species, and for others there are quotas and minimum sizes. You must throw back any fish which exceed your personal quota or which are too small. The government has published a document (in French) detailing all of the laws, bylaws and recommendations which apply to marine fishing in Hérault. You must ensure you read and understand it, with the help of a translator if necessary, as ignorance of the law - even when there is a language barrier - is not a defence.

Events
For somewhere that only barely qualifies as a town, Bouzigues has a rather full events calendar. The complete list can be found, in French, on the municipal website, but here are the highlights:



Buy
There is an ATM cashpoint, offering free withdrawals, on the wall of the (mairie) on rue du Port.

Food and drink essentials


For a proper market atmosphere, as well as two decent-sized supermarkets (Carrefour and Intermarché), go to Mèze.

Shellfish
There are about half a dozen shops where you can buy shellfish (coquillages) direct from producers. Expect to pay a slight premium for oysters, given they are what Bouzigues is known for. However, other shellfish are very reasonably priced, as are tielles sétoises, a local squid and tomato pie. Most of these shops are located on, at the far end from the port; you will pass them on the way into town from the western D613 roundabout. There is also one shellfish shop on.

What to try

 * Oysters (huîtres) from Bouzigues are amazingly fresh and must be tried by every visitor! Squeeze a dash of lemon onto the flesh, then scoop it out with your teeny-tiny fork and swallow whole. Washed down with a glass of the local white (Picpoul de Pinet), this is just like tasting the sea.
 * Mussels (moules) are the other shellfish that is farmed in Bouzigues. Some of the restaurants serve them raw on a platter with oysters, but these are frankly not worth the bother unless you really want to try them. Much better are the classic moules marinières, or else moules farcies (stuffed with cheese, breadcrumbs and tomato) you can get at a few different restaurants.
 * Prawns (crevettes) in Bouzigues are fat and delicious, and are served shell-on - forget any notion of piddly little shrimps. There are few more satisfying food experiences than breaking into a prawn, dipping it in aioli, and devouring it whole.
 * Razor clams (couteaux) are uncommon on menus in the English-speaking world, which is odd because when cooked well they are divine: quite meaty, and a little bit squeaky when you chew them.
 * All of the above on one almighty seafood platter (plateau de fruits de mer), a typically-lavish offering served at many restaurants. Most are for sharing between two.
 * Tielles sétoises are small pies filled with a sort of squid, tomato and red pepper paste, and are a speciality of Sète.
 * Bourride à la sétoise is an alioli-based orange-coloured fish soup which normally uses a white fish such as anglerfish (baudroie) with carrots, onion, potatoes and herbs.

Restaurants
There are many restaurants lining the front, and all seem to be of a very high standard, so the below list is by no means supposed to be comprehensive. If you are eating at dusk, try to get a table facing west; the sunsets over the étang can be spectacular whilst you're tucking into your meal.

Vegetarians, you're out of luck. Bouzigues is unfortunately typical of rural France in that none of the restaurants have proper vegetarian menus, and most don't even have the odd meat- or fish-free dish. The nearest vegetarian restaurant is La Part des Anges in Sète, but Montpellier has a much wider selection.

Other options


Tired of French food? You'll have to head into Sète for Moroccan, Chinese and Indian offerings, or Mèze, where you'll find a decent Vietnamese place on avenue de Montpellier (the main D613 road from Bouzigues). Other than that, the city of Montpellier's dining scene is considerably more cosmopolitan.

Drink
The local white wine, Picpoul de Pinet, is lush with seafood or as an apéritif. Black label (étiquette noire) Picpoul is fruitier and sweeter, while white label (étiquette blanche) is drier and smoother. There are many vineyards open to the public for buying and tasting Picpoul and other local wines in the triangle of land between Mèze, Marseillan and Pézenas, though of course all of the local shops and supermarkets stock most of the good Languedoc wines, and some of the bad ones.

Aside from food, Bouzigues is no place for nightlife. There is only one bar in town, not counting those in the hotels listed below:



Sleep


There are not a great many accommodation options in Bouzigues, which is one of the reasons it's nice and quiet. As well as what's listed below, there are a handful of self-catering gîtes and tiny B&Bs (chambres d'hôtes) scattered around the place.

In addition to the rates posted, a tourist tax of €1.65 per person per night is levied on all visitors by the municipality of Bouzigues.

Camping


If these limited options don't appeal, there is a lot of tourist accommodation in both Balaruc-les-Bains and Mèze.

Connect
The bar (Le Globe) offers free wifi; just ask for the code. Otherwise, the nearest internet café, called cyberphone7, is at 13 rue du 11 novembre 1918, in Sète.

Go next



 * Loupian - Bouzigues' attractive inland neighbour is an interesting village worth an hour of wandering. Most travellers visit the Gallo-Roman villa, which has some truly exceptional mosaics, but miss out Loupian itself; don't be like most travellers. Drive or catch the bus (104).
 * Mèze - more or less a larger version of Bouzigues, with a great market on Sundays and Thursdays, a very pleasant harbour and large sandy beach. Drive or catch the bus (103).
 * Sète - nearby large town with an interesting port area, a good regional art museum and links to the musician Georges Brassens. Drive.
 * Montpellier - unmissable city with a youthful buzz and cosmopolitan energy that Bouzigues just hasn't got. Drive or catch the bus (103 or 104 to tram stop, then tram L2 into city centre. Ask the bus driver to include the tram fare in the ticket; it doesn't cost any different to buying them separately, but it saves on time at the other end.)
 * Nîmes - some wonderfully-preserved Roman ruins, including a monumental amphitheatre still in use. Drive or catch the train from Sète (TER is cheaper than TGV).