Boston/North End

Known as "Little Italy" for over a hundred years, the North End proudly carries the torch of Boston's Italian heritage. Its narrow, dense streets consistently draw hordes of visitors looking to experience old world culture and first class dining. The West End was a sister neighborhood, until it was almost entirely demolished during the 1950s. Today it's the site of a huge sports arena and massive amounts of new construction.

North End
The draw of the North End was evident even to the first Puritan colonists, when powerful minister Increase Mather made this neighborhood his home. This area shared fortunes with Beacon Hill, and people from all walks of life came together to live and worship. The Old North Church was put up in 1723, the oldest church in Boston still standing. As the years wore on, the English and free Blacks living here would be pushed out by a wave of Irish immigrants who arrived in great numbers. Stately mansions were converted into tenements, and living conditions deteriorated. By the mid 19th century, the North End developed something of an unsavory reputation, a red-light district along what is today North Street being chiefly responsible.

By the 1880s the Irish had decamped, and the North End became dominated by Jewish and especially Italian immigrants. These families would barter trade skills to one another, slowly repairing and replacing the area's dilapidated housing stock with what you will see here today. A poorly considered expressway project constructed in the 1950s cut this neighborhood off from the rest of Boston. Although this did have the beneficial effect of strengthening already close community connections, and family owned businesses continued to thrive.

When the ugly expressway was removed in 2007 by the Big Dig, a hulking metal barrier was replaced by a welcoming green garden, and the North End was united with the rest of the city once more. This connective parkland invites visitors from around the globe to explore the narrow brick streets, historical highlights, and unparalleled Italian dining that make the North End such a unique destination.

West End
Once simply a small bay and mill pond to early colonists, the West End is another of Boston's neighborhoods built on reclaimed land. After the American revolution, the pond had turned into something of a convenient&mdash;although increasingly stinky&mdash;garbage dump. By the dawn of the 19th century it was decided to use the earth from one of Beacon Hill's three original hills to fill the pond in.

The creation of this new neighborhood quickly relieved pressure on the town's overcrowded housing stock. Some of the areas first residents would be African American, joining friends and family living nearby on Beacon Hill's north slope. This was one of the few places in the United States where African Americans had a political voice before the Civil War. In the coming years they would be joined by immigrants arriving from across Europe, Russia, and the Middle East.

By the 1950s the once overcrowded area was in the process of "de-slumming" along with the North End. It wasn't perfect, but small shops were still in business and many families still considered it a fine place to live. A city plan to "redevelop" the area was overwhelmingly opposed by residents during a meeting in late 1957. Their pleas fell on deaf ears, however, and eviction notices were handed out a few months later. The following year, a majority of the West End would be razed to the ground.

Today a vibrancy is slowly returning to the remaining pockets of what once was. It will never again feel like a sister to the North End, but as the tall buildings of glass and steel take the place of 50s era parking lots, the West End stands ready to turn the page and write its next chapter.

By foot
The North and West End are of similar size and can be traversed in around 15-20 minutes, so walking is usually going to be your best option. The easiest way to get to the North End is to follow the Freedom Trail from downtown Boston; follow the crowd across the Greenway and you're there. For the West End, turn left as the Greenway ends and the Charlestown bridge looms.

By public transit
By far the largest station in the area is North Station. Not only is this a major stop on the Orange and Green lines, four Commuter Rail lines and the Amtrak train to Maine depart from here as well. See Boston by train for more information. While covered more in depth in the downtown article, Haymarket on the Orange and Green lines can be a very useful station for the visitor. Accessible by Green line tracks; Science Park is the station you want if you're visiting the Science Museum. If you're going to be on the Blue line anyway, Aquarium or Bowdoin stations may also prove useful to you.

By car
Here are two more neighborhoods where driving is a terrible idea. The North End in particular has streets so narrow they barely accommodate pedestrians, much less automobiles. When visitors aren't clogging up the thoroughfares in summer, the snow picks up that slack in wintertime. There are a few (expensive) parking garages in the West End and downtown if you're determined to go that route. A few businesses in this area may provide valet parking, but call ahead to ensure a spot and don't expect it to come gratis.

Itineraries

 * The Freedom Trail — A major tourist draw of significant historical sites in Boston. These 17 locations spread over two and a half miles are crucial to understanding revolutionary era America. A few are located here.

Events
Throughout the summer there rarely is a dull moment in the North End. There is seemingly a different Italian festival every weekend, often thematically based on Catholic saints.



Buy
Remember, people still live in the North End, it hasn't gone full Epcot Center just yet. You can find a few stores with tacky tourist trinkets, but their presence is refreshingly limited. This is a neighborhood where residents walk to local fruit stores, butcher shops and corner markets for their groceries.



Eat
Many visitors travel to the North End specifically for the dining experience. There are a plethora of Italian restaurants here, and almost all of them are good. If you haven't decided exactly where to eat, all you need to do is walk down Hanover Street and you'll be presented with no shortage of quality choices. In the high season just stop to eat whenever you see a short line, as many North End restaurants don't do reservations. Don't browse too long however, as around suppertime the area can become awash with hundreds of your empty stomached competitors. If you're on a budget, the ATM is your friend. Many establishments here are cash only.

Sleep
Don't go looking for bargains in these neighborhoods. The North and West Ends are some of the most touristed and developed areas in the city. Expect gut rehabs of historical buildings, excellent service, and sky high prices.

Go next

 * Walk over the Charlestown bridge which (surprise!) connects to Charlestown and pay a visit to the USS Constitution, oldest commissioned warship still afloat.
 * In nicer weather take a boat to South Boston and see the Institute of Contemporary Art.
 * A few steps south and you're Downtown, where the Old State House and Quincy Market live.
 * More in the mood for shopping? Head to the Back Bay and explore Newbury Street.
 * Prefer baseball to basketball or hockey? Try and score tickets to a game at Fenway Park in the Fenway neighborhood.