Bocas del Toro

Bocas del Toro (aka Bocas Town aka Bocas) is a town in the Caribbean West of Panama. The town has an interesting mix of islanders, ex-pats and backpackers and is the most developed in the region. The town boasts an abundance of restaurants, hotels and bars. Bocas has developed a reputation for being a party town with a number of bars and clubs that sit on the stilts over the water.

Understand
Bocas Town is on the southern tip of Isla Colón and is part of the Bocas del Toro archipelago of islands.

Further afield on the island of Colón, are a number of white sand beaches and nature reserves. Bocas also makes a good base for doing tours around the other islands. Other islands accessible by water taxi from Bocas Town include Carenero, Bastimentos, Cristóbal, and Solarte.

By plane
There is a small airport on Isla Colón with several flights from Panama City. AirPanama operates several flights a day from Albrook Airport in Panama City (not the main international airport). FlyTrip has flights from both Albrook and Tocumen although booking through them is less straight-forward than Air Panama.

By car
It is possible to take your vehicle on the island using a car ferry. The ferry leaves Almirante port every morning at 08:00 Monday to Saturday (no service on Sundays). Cost per car is $15 and there is an extra $1 charge per passenger. The same ferry goes back to the mainland on the same days at 16:00. If you wish to leave your car on the mainland, there is a secure parking available next to where the water taxis leave in Almirante. Cost is $3 per day.

By bus and boat
The town is on Isla Colón and you'll need to take a boat to access it. Boats departs frequently from Almirante. There is no service anymore from Changuinola. There are three operators, all offering the same service. Standard prices are $6 one-way, $10 round trip (June 2023).

An alternative is to take the truck ferry which departs Almirante every day at 07:00 and 12:00. Pedestrian passage is $3, $3.50 for a bicycle and more for motorcycles or cars. Arrive early if you have a car. The ferry returns from Bocas at 10:00 and 15:00.

From David look for buses to Changuinola and ask a driver to stop in Almirante ($8.45, 4 hr). In Almirante, get off before the bus terminal at the turn, otherwise it is a very short walk to the docks (1–1.5 km). Many decide to take the taxi ($2), which is why they do not stop near the docks.

Ignore the guys who want to walk you there as this will increase the price of your ticket to the island.

From Changuinola the bus might stop near the dock ($1.45).

From Panamá City are two buses: 07:00 and 20:00 ($27.50) (August 2022)

By private shuttle
From Boquete you can also take a private shuttle for the 4-hr journey to Almirante, and then the water taxi, which is included in the ticket price, to Bocas del Toro. Two companies in town offer the daily shuttle: Reservations are recommended ($30-35). From Boquete they leave at 08:00 from Hola Panama in the Mamallena Hostel, or 09:00 from the Transport Company in Plaza Los Establos on Main Street.

There are a few other companies also offering private buses and shuttles to Bocas from many destinations including Puerto Viejo, Panama City, San Jose and others. To check pricing, schedules and availability, click the link: Caribe Shuttle.

By sailboat
Bocas del Toro is a popular place for sailboats to stop and stay for awhile, with plenty of easy anchorage and a marina, and it is an authorized port of entry to Panama. If you are arriving from another country, immigration officials will come to your boat to do an inspection once you contact them upon arrival, and the crew is not supposed to leave the boat until this process is complete (though you are unlikely to be penalized if you make a mistake). If you do not have your own boat and cannot afford to charter one, it may be possible to find crew opportunities for boats coming here from elsewhere in Panama or the Caribbean.

From Costa Rica
From Sixaola in Costa Rica you get to pay a $7+1 exit fee and a $4 municipality fee to enter Panama. The border in Panama closes at 17:00 local time. The Panamanian officials frequently ask for printed proof that you are going to leave the country again. If you can't provide any such documents you might be required to buy a $14 ticket to San José. From the border there are $10 shuttles to Almirante, or you can take a bus to Changuinola ($1, 15 min) and from there a mini bus to Almirante ($1.45, 40 min).

Get around
Bocas town is small enough to walk all over. If you need a ride, cabs are plentiful and usually only cost 60 cents or so to get around town.

By water taxi
Not necessary for getting around the town itself, but water taxis are the main means of transport to other islands or farther-flung beaches. Fares are always charged per person, not per group, and start at $1 (from the Bocas Town waterfront to Aqua Lounge on nearby Carenero Island). Agree on the price beforehand. You can also pay before getting in if you want to make sure to get your change.

By rental
Bicycle rentals run approximately $2/hr or $10/day. There is a guy opposite the market downtown renting cruisers for $6/day, you will pay more for a mountain bike or one with electric pedal assist from the bigger hostels. The roads are flat and in good repair inside town. Cycling to Playa Bluff will require crossing some sandy areas, but nothing too challenging. Cycling to Boca del Drago takes about an hour over the hilly, sometimes-gravel road through the jungle.

Scooters can also be rented, for approximately $70/day. ATV are also available and popular.

By bus
There are two bus companies that provide service between Bocas town and Drago beach (for the starfish). They run every full hour for $3.50 (Aug 2022). If you get off a little earlier, it is $1 less (see the price sign in the bus). In case you stay along Bluff or at Skullys, entering later than the town they still demand $2.50. If you are confident, you can argue with them. At least on the way back, you can refer to the price sign.

Beaches

 * El Istmito
 * Big Creek
 * Bluff Beach – There are several hotels/restaurants in middle. Swimming can difficult but come here for unspoilt sometimes private feeling beach. Surfing is popular. About $15 taxi from town. Otherwise take the bus to the junction towards Drago ($0.50) and walk the rest.
 * Starfish Beach – Take the hourly bus to Drago (45 min) and walk another 1.5-2 km from there (20 min).
 * Mimitimbi Beach

Ecotourism

 * Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute Tropical Research Station – A world-class marine science research station, offering free guided tours Thursday and Friday afternoons. Located a bit outside of town.
 * Finca los Monos – A private botanical garden, also just outside of town, known for its good birding and good chances to see wild monkeys and sloths. $25 admission.
 * Sloths – Wild three-toed sloths can be seen anywhere in the Bocas del Toro archipelago if you're lucky, but tours offer visits to "sloth islands" where your odds are supposedly better. Package tours that only include a boat ride past the islands are unlikely to result in sightings, but more focused tours that land on the islands are more likely to be worthwhile.
 * Dolphin Bay – There is a lagoon a few miles away from Bocas Town with a resident population of wild dolphins. Many day tours of the islands include stops here, and it's also possible to take a water taxi.

Do








Eat
There are plenty of places to eat lining the main streets of Bocas Town. Just walk around and check some out. Expect to pay about $3–5 for a cheap meal, though of course it is easy to find places where you will pay much more. Food carts can be either fairly expensive or pretty cheap, usually depending on the location and target clientele. Specialties are empanadas or fried chicken and patacones.



Drink
There quite a few bars in Bocas Town, and all the restaurants serve beer as well. It's not uncommon for backpackers to buy beer at one of the many small grocery stores and drink while walking down the street.

Sleep
This section lists accommodations within Bocas Town. For more (and quieter) options within a short water taxi ride of Bocas Town, see Isla Carenero. There are also places to stay on the slightly-farther Isla Bastimentos, Isla Cristóbal, and Isla Solarte, still accessible by water taxi from Bocas.
 * Try Mondo Taito or Heike twin hostels in the town. Dorm beds are available from $10 with kind of gross shared bathrooms. Run by a group of American ex-pats. They do not take advance bookings, it is very noisy, not all that clean and not on the water, but if you are up for a party you will probably have a great time. Cheap Spanish lessons available.
 * Try Mondo Taito or Heike twin hostels in the town. Dorm beds are available from $10 with kind of gross shared bathrooms. Run by a group of American ex-pats. They do not take advance bookings, it is very noisy, not all that clean and not on the water, but if you are up for a party you will probably have a great time. Cheap Spanish lessons available.
 * Try Mondo Taito or Heike twin hostels in the town. Dorm beds are available from $10 with kind of gross shared bathrooms. Run by a group of American ex-pats. They do not take advance bookings, it is very noisy, not all that clean and not on the water, but if you are up for a party you will probably have a great time. Cheap Spanish lessons available.
 * Try Mondo Taito or Heike twin hostels in the town. Dorm beds are available from $10 with kind of gross shared bathrooms. Run by a group of American ex-pats. They do not take advance bookings, it is very noisy, not all that clean and not on the water, but if you are up for a party you will probably have a great time. Cheap Spanish lessons available.
 * Try Mondo Taito or Heike twin hostels in the town. Dorm beds are available from $10 with kind of gross shared bathrooms. Run by a group of American ex-pats. They do not take advance bookings, it is very noisy, not all that clean and not on the water, but if you are up for a party you will probably have a great time. Cheap Spanish lessons available.

Go next
Within the Bocas del Toro archipelago are a few other islands. Many visitors will split their time in Bocas between these islands.


 * Isla Carenero - Smallest island, but home to some of the best restaurants and hostels.
 * Bastimentos - Known for beaches, jungles, and a National Marine Park.
 * Isla Cristóbal - Mostly agrarian island, mostly home to local farmers and a few small bed & breakfasts.

These destinations are a common next stop from Bocas on the Central American backpacking trail:
 * Gualaca - A small mountainside community in the cloud forests south of Bocas. Known for hiking and waterfalls.
 * Boquete - The well-developed town of Boquete is Panama's adventure hub, with rock climbing, hiking, river rafting, and more.
 * Changuinola - Near the border with Costa Rica, of limited interest to tourists but has better shopping & supplies than Bocas.
 * Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica - Anyone traveling from Bocas north to Costa Rica will pass through here.