Bishop Auckland

Bishop Auckland is a town in County Durham in northeast England, with a population of 23,000 in 2021. The main reason to visit is the fine castle, for eight centuries a bishop's residence.

Understand
The medieval bishops of Durham held the status of princes so they needed palatial lodgings. They found the hunting lodge at Auckland more to their liking than their city residence, so they spent 800 years building up the castle here and knocking down whatever the previous fellow had done. They decamped back to Durham in 2012 and the castle was bought by Jonathan Ruffer (b 1951), a banker, lawyer and art collector.

What had been a small market, agricultural and weaving town burgeoned in the late 19th century with the development of the Durham coalfields, with 60 collieries active in the area. There was also quarrying, railways to transport the coal and stone, and foundries for railway engineering. These all collapsed in the late 20th century and the town is trying to relaunch itself as a tourist destination. The castle is centrepiece of that effort and the other big draw is the historical pageant "Kynren".

Get in
By road from the south follow A1 past Scotch Corner onto A68 then A6072. From the north leave A1 at Bowburn (Durham services) for A688.

Arriva Bus 1 runs every 30 min from Darlington, taking an hour via Shildon and continuing to Crook; alternate buses carry on to Tow Law.

Bus 5 runs every 30 min from Darlington, taking 90 via Newton Aycliffe, with the last bus towards 11PM.

Bus 6 runs every 20 min from Durham, taking 40 min via Spennymoor and continuing to West Auckland.

Weardale Bus 85 runs five times M-Sa from Barnard Castle, connecting with Bus 95 from Middleton-on-Tees, and taking 50 min via Staindrop, Cockfield and West Auckland.

is just a draughty square a block west of Market Place.

Trains run hourly from Middlesbrough (some starting from Saltburn), taking an hour via Thornaby, Darlington, Newton Aycliffe and Shildon. Change at Darlington for London, Leeds, York, Newcastle and Edinburgh.

is half a mile south of town centre. It has a ticket office and machines, but no waiting room or toilets. There is step-free access to the sole platform.

Bishop Auckland West is the terminus for the heritage Weardale Railway, described below. A 150-yard footpath links it to the mainline station.

Get around
Hodgson's Bus 87 runs hourly M-Sa to Escomb (for Saxon church), Witton Park and Toft Hill. Bus 89 makes five extra runs as far as Escomb.

Bus 104 runs six times M-Sa to Binchester (for Roman fort) and Newfield.

Taxi firms in town are Aabat (+44 1388 607607), Cables (+44 1388 602313) and GMC (+44 7935 684022).

See

 * Auckland Project (AP) Pass gives you 12 months admission to the Castle, Spanish Gallery, Mining Art Gallery and Tower. In 2024 it's £27 for an adult.



Do

 * Theatre is in Town Hall on Market Place.
 * Golf: Bishop Auckland GC is on the hillside east of town. White tees 6460 yards, par 72, visitor round £40.

Buy

 * Newgate Shopping Centre just east of the bus station is hollow, with few stores open in 2024. The multi-story car park remains in use.
 * Morrison's is just north of the railway station, open M-Sa 7AM-9PM, Su 10AM-4PM. The filling station is 24 hours.
 * Asda is east across the street from Morrison's, open M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 10AM-4PM.
 * Asda is east across the street from Morrison's, open M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 10AM-4PM.

Eat

 * Market Place and Bondgate has Chang Thai, El Castillo, Spice Lounge and Knead A Slice.
 * Newgate St near the railway station has Manzo (below), The Smokehouse, Gabrielle's and Street Pasta.

Drink

 * Market Place and Bondgate has The Merry Monk, The Stanley Jefferson (below), Bay Horse (below) and Lacy's Bar.
 * Newgate St and south towards the station have Tap & Tun, The Welcome, The Mitre, Cumberland Arms, King's Head and The Green Tree (below).
 * McColl's Brewery is on Randolf Industrial Estate four miles west of town and offers tours.
 * Newgate St and south towards the station have Tap & Tun, The Welcome, The Mitre, Cumberland Arms, King's Head and The Green Tree (below).
 * McColl's Brewery is on Randolf Industrial Estate four miles west of town and offers tours.
 * McColl's Brewery is on Randolf Industrial Estate four miles west of town and offers tours.

Connect
As of Feb 2024, Bishop Auckland and its approach roads have 4G from EE and Vodafone, and 5G from O2 and Three.

Go next

 * Durham 11 miles north has an outstanding old town, with castle and cathedral perched on a peninsula.
 * Shildon 4 miles south has Locomotion Railway Museum.
 * Barnard Castle 15 miles southwest has a scenic crumbling castle and the ostentatious Bowes Museum.