Bishkek

Bishkek (Бишкек), the capital and largest city in Kyrgyzstan, sits at the foothills of the Tien Shan mountain range in the Chui Valley. It is a relatively new city and has few historical sites, but it makes a great place to start your trips to the mountains and alpine lakes of the Tien Shan mountains. Bishkek is an interesting example of a Soviet planned city; laid on a grid with wide boulevards flanked by irrigation canals and large trees, buildings with marble façades, and Soviet apartment complexes. Bishkek has a delightful nightlife, and the people are friendly and very hospitable. Bishkek is a city of many young people that hang out in clubs and small cafes. Kyrgyzstan has the most liberal tourist visa regime in Central Asia, so Bishkek can be a great place to start a tour of the Silk Road and collect your visas to neighbouring countries.

Its population was approximately 1,070,000 as of 2021.

History
Bishkek was founded when the Uzbek khan of Kokand built a small clay fort by a settlement on a tributary of the Chuy River in 1825, to connect up several stop-off points on the Silk Road through the Tian Shan mountains. In 1862 it was captured and trashed by Russians, before they set up their own garrison. Russian peasants were soon lured here by land grants and the fertile soil of the Chuy Valley.

The renamed town of Frunze became capital of the new Kyrgyz ASSR in 1926, but it was renamed Bishkek (the Kyrgyz form of its old Kazakh name, Pishpek) in 1991.

Climate
Bishkek has a temperate continental climate. The city is drab and grey in the winter, and smog is a major issue. Summer is often hot and clear, while spring and autumn are rainier. While Bishkek can be enjoyed at any time of the year with the appropriate clothing, the mountains which most tourists come for are usually only accessible between May and September.

See graph/information to the right.

By plane


Getting there & away:
 * Marshrutka 380 runs downtown. The fare is 70 som (May 2024), and they sometimes charge an extra 10 som for baggage. It leaves from just outside Arrivals. Downtown the stop is on Jash Gvardiya just north of Chuy. Service runs only daytime from about 6:40 to early evening.
 * There is a new bus service run by GoBus company. Their stop is in front of Manas terminal opposite of where #380 stops. Schedule depends on the day and should correspond to flight departures. Their stops are more centrally located (Ala-Too, Philharmonic, Vefa, ...) compared to #380. Schedule from airport is frequently changed and not so reliable. Ticket is 200 som and can be booked through their app (only in Russian and Kyrgyz), there is also a chat link to book and get support in English.
 * A taxi to and from the city centre should not exceed 500 som, but you'll have to negotiate from a much higher price, especially if it's very early in the morning. If you share a taxi the price should be 150 som per person.
 * To & from Kazakhstan, the airport is so close to the border that you're better taking a taxi between airport and border post where you can pick up a marshrutka, e.g. on Highway A2 for Almaty, rather than going via Bishkek center.

Domestic
There is a train between Bishkek and Balykchy, which lies on the western edge of Issyk Kul lake. It starts in Bishkek, from Bishkek-1 at 06:25 and Bishkek-2 at 06:40 (as of Sep 2018). The return trip starts at 17:08 in Balykchy.

The latter train also stops in Tokmok (for the Burana Tower).

International
From Almaty there is a train, but it is much quicker to come by road, as the railway has to swing clear of the mountains so you'd have to change and double back from Lugovaya.

From Tashkent there is a direct train Jun-Sep, which runs once a week. It leaves Thursday evening and takes 20 hr via Shymkent and Lugovaya, continuing from Bishkek-2 to Balykchy (aka Rybache) on Lake Issyk Kul. It returns west on Saturday morning. At other times of year you have to change at Taraz or Lugovaya; there may be a very long wait.

From Moscow Kazanskaya a direct train runs twice a week (late evening Th & Sa), taking just over 3 days to Bishkek-2 station via Samara, Aktobe, Kyzlorda, Shymkent, and Taraz in Kazakhstan. There are several other connections via Petropavl, Nur-Sultan or Almaty. The return direct train departs from Bishkek-2 on M & W mornings.

By bus


Specific destinations:

By bus
Checkout the 2GIS app and website, which is great for finding the right marshrutka or bus number in Bishkek and all over Kyrgyzstan. The service is used extensively by the locals.

Marshrutkas
Kyrgyzstan's capital, like many places in the former Soviet Union, has an extensive network of minibuses, known as Marshrutkas. There are hundreds of mini-buses (marshrutkas) that ply all parts of the city. They generally cost 15 som, 17 som after 21:00. They typically have around 14 seats, with standing room for around ten extra people during busy periods. Marshrutkas are easily identifiable and display their number and basic route information (in Russian) on the front. There is a great English website for checking connections. To flag one down, simply hold out your right hand, parallel to the ground. Once you get on, pay the fare to the driver. When you want to get off say "ah-stah-nah-VEE-tyeh" or simply "Stop". According to the law marshrutkas should stop at bus stops only, but this is only respected if the driver sees a police car. So, in practice you can ask the driver to stop anywhere and he will drop you off at any point on their route.

(Trolley) buses
Bishkek also has a bus and trolleybus system which is less extensive and generally slower. They only stop at designated bus stops and operate only till 22:00. The fare is 11 som in buses and in trolleybuses. Passengers enter at the back door and leave at the front; they pay on exit.

By taxi
There are several private taxi firms in Bishkek that you can easily reach through their three digit numbers including: 150, 152, 154, 156, 166, and 188. Daytime taxis throughout the city are a flat rate of 100 som and 120 som past 22:00. There are also numerous "gypsy cabs" situated at nearly every intersection. While most travellers and long-time expats report no problems, you are cautioned to be aware, especially at night and near nightclubs. Generally tourists use the local taxi services which can be reached through several numbers: 150 Euro (Evro) Taxi, 152 Super Taxi, 156 Express Taxi and 188 Salam Taxi. Before 22:00 most runs in the city are 100 som and afterwards are 120 som.

Many taxis do not use a flat rate, you negotiate a price in advance. Short distance inside city can be 80 som. A taxi for a day can be negotiated. An hour drive to mountain costs about 1,100 som while getting back is usually much more expensive because the driver has to run twice without passengers since during your stay he needs to return to the city to work.

Yandex Taxi is available, it can be ordered using smartphone app.

By bike
Bike shops in town also rent bikes:



See
Bishkek is a pleasant city to wander with numerous leafy parks, tall trees, peppered by Soviet era statues and monuments. However there isn't a great deal to see beyond this, and the city can comfortably be 'done' in a day (or two if visiting the suburban markets). Most museums are closed on Mondays.


 * Bazaars: they're more for shopping in than for sight-seeing, but see "Buy" descriptions for Osh, Dordoy, Alamedin and Ortosay Bazaars.
 * Bazaars: they're more for shopping in than for sight-seeing, but see "Buy" descriptions for Osh, Dordoy, Alamedin and Ortosay Bazaars.
 * Bazaars: they're more for shopping in than for sight-seeing, but see "Buy" descriptions for Osh, Dordoy, Alamedin and Ortosay Bazaars.
 * Bazaars: they're more for shopping in than for sight-seeing, but see "Buy" descriptions for Osh, Dordoy, Alamedin and Ortosay Bazaars.

Learn
Bishkek is a cheap place to learn Russian (or Kyrgyz). A private 1½-hr lesson with a native Russian speaker should cost between US$5–7. Courses are also available at the American University of Central Asia and the Kyrgyz-Russian-Slavic University. There is also a private school that caters to individual learning: The London School of Languages and Cultures. This school offers Russian and Kyrgyz to anyone at anytime of the year for as little as 120 som/hr. During the warmer months they are often full so book in advance.

Work
A number of international organizations have offices in Bishkek, however most employees are recruited from abroad. If you speak Russian, there might be occasional opportunities to find temporary or long-term work. There are also English language schools that will employ native English speakers.

There is not a lot of foreign business investment, but there is the Kumtor Gold mine and many foreign exploration companies attempting to develop the natural resources of the country.

Money
Exchange offices can be found around the, or on. The rates here are excellent and barely 1% off the bank rate, for US dollars and euros. But also tenge and others can be obtained for a proper rate.

Shopping
If you want to fit in with the locals, be sure to get one of the stylish Kyrgyz felt hats (kalpaks) worn mainly by men. You can also get textiles such as traditional patterned carpets (shyrdaks), which are well-made but can be expensive. For cheap souvenirs, avoid the Tsum department store and head directly for the Osh Bazaar. You may have to dig around the stalls as there isn't as much variety or quality as in Tsum, but the prices can be far cheaper if you put your bargaining skills to the test.


 * Alamedin Bazaar is to the northeast, corner of Jibek Jolu and Kurmanjan Datka, and Ortosay Bazaar is to the southeast.
 * Alamedin Bazaar is to the northeast, corner of Jibek Jolu and Kurmanjan Datka, and Ortosay Bazaar is to the southeast.
 * Alamedin Bazaar is to the northeast, corner of Jibek Jolu and Kurmanjan Datka, and Ortosay Bazaar is to the southeast.

Eat
Bishkek is probably the best choice for food in Kyrgyzstan. From typical Kyrgyz food like Besh barmak or central Asia classics as Plov, Shashlyk or Samsas can be found around the city. Also Russian dishes are fairly ubiquitous in Bishkek because of the large number of ethnic Russians who still live in the city. There are an also growing number of restaurants and cafes catering to more varied tastes from Turkish to Korean. Also Uyghur food is popular and fit the taste of many westerners as well as locals. E.g. the chain Arzu have a few restaurants.

Budget
There are hundreds of stands that sell gamburgers, a local adaptation of hamburgers but really share little in common: they are sliced döner kebab-style meat served on a bun with cole-slaw, cucumber, mayonnaise, ketchup and some chips. They usually cost around 60 som. One of the most popular gamburger stands in Bishkek is at the corner of Sovietskaya and Kievskaya, across the street from the main post office. It's a popular area for local students to pick up a cheap meal, and they even serve the rare chicken hamburger.

Throughout the city are a lot of street-side vendors selling samsis, which is a staple of most locals' lunch. The green kiosks opposite the Philharmonic Hall ticket office sell some of the freshest, cheapest and best prepared in Bishkek and they are popular with students from the nearby universities. You can usually find a row of shashlyk grills inside any bazaar or just outside any chaykhana (teahouse).

For some pre-independence nostalgia, try the cafeterias of government ministries and universities. For about one US dollar you can experience what it was like to eat Soviet-style cafeteria food.



Cafes
There are a few coffee shops in Bishkek that even feature wi-fi.

Bars
For young and single people, Bishkek's nightlife is impressive. Foreigners are welcomed at most venues with open arms, and many times they do not need to pay a cover charge. See the "Stay Safe" section for more on how be aware while you're having fun in Bishkek.



Stay safe
Bishkek is safe compared to many major Asian cities.

Traffic
The most dangerous places are the streets during rush hours when you try to cross them. At night take the usual precautions. However even the parks are quite safe. If you go out and plan to drink you should always take a taxi for about 120 som because a drunken person stumbling around is everywhere in the world an easy victim.

Pick-pocketing
Pickpockets are a major problem in and around markets, especially at Osh Bazaar. Look out for young men with large plastic bags "bumping" into you. Keep your valuables at your accommodation if you plan to visit the markets, and if you bring a purse, camera, backpack etc. keep it in front of you.

Nightclubs
Nightclubs and their surrounding areas can be a hotbed for crime in the form of theft, prostitution, or even assault by people waiting to take advantage of an unsuspecting traveler or expat. Ask locals or hotel staff which areas are safer than other and take precautions if you plan on club hopping. Do not walk from nightclub to nightclub at night; instead spend 120-150 som on a taxi. Potential muggers have been known to wait outside bars and clubs, especially the ones frequented by ex-pats, follow drunk ex-pats and then rob them.

Keep a cool head and be aware of your surroundings when hanging out inside and outside of nightclubs. Most clubs have numerous buff, semi-professional security guards, but you should be vigilant nonetheless. Do not leave any belongings on the table while you go to dance. Be careful around the taxi area outside the club; occasionally, unsavory characters pick this location to mug drunk foreigners as they leave the club late at night. You might not get much help from club security when it comes to theft.

Bishkek has a lot of prostitutes and sexual-transmitted diseases are on the rise in Kyrgyzstan and Central Asia. Always take proper precautions if you plan on being sexually active.

Police
If you are a victim of a crime, you are probably best served by reporting the incident to your embassy, rather than to the militsya (police). Sometimes militsya will approach foreigners and ask them for documents, such as your passport. It's best to keep a photocopy of your passport and leave the original at your hotel if you can. On the rare occasion that they make problems, be polite, but firm, in your refusal and insist that you be put in touch with your embassy first.

In the past it occurred that (fake) policeman approach you on the street, especially if you look like a tourist, such as carrying a big backpack, and ask to check the belongings. Often, their aim is to steal your valuables and money. They can do it very professionally, and you only will notice later, that something disappeared. The best way, is to pretend you don't understand them, trying to call your embassy, or just walk away asap. Also keep your valuables in a safe place and don't expose them to others the entire time you are in Kyrgyzstan. Even sometimes normal local people, who invite you to have a tea at their home, if they see that you left some valuables unattended, may be tempted to steal.

Infrastructure
Irrigation ditches and other holes in the ground can seriously injure the unaware person - especially when walking at night. Many streets are poorly lit or not lit at all, and it is easy to fall into them. Avoid manhole covers, grates and similar fixtures - they are frequently loose and even missing.

Cope
Bishkek is more or less a museum relic of the former Soviet Bloc. Despite Kyrgyzstan's poverty and the decay of its infrastructure, Bishkek remains a relatively safe, clean, functional city. Bishkek is not an old city and possesses no ancient landmarks, but it nonetheless has its own kind of charm, which often arouses nostalgia in people who knew the old Soviet Union. For some visitors, Bishkek is merely a stop on the Silk Road to refresh supplies before returning to the mountains. However, expatriates generally consider themselves lucky to benefit from its easygoing lifestyle, open-minded spirit, party culture and low cost of living. If you come with the right expectations you might find yourself pleasantly surprised.

Embassies and consulates

 * 🇨🇳 China
 * For obtaining a tourist visa an inviting letter is required. Travel agencies which can provide it are:
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇰🇿 Kazakhstan
 * 🇹🇯 Tajikistan
 * 🇺🇸 United States
 * 🇺🇿 Uzbekistan
 * 🇹🇯 Tajikistan
 * 🇺🇸 United States
 * 🇺🇿 Uzbekistan

Connect
Free Wi-Fi is widespread. Most "foreinercafes" have free Wi-Fi (Coffee, Foyer, Obama, Cyclone, Pirogoff-Vodkin, Vostok Zapad, Tubeteika, Movie City Bar, Buddha Bar, etc.) There is also free Wi-Fi at the Vefa shopping centre on the corner of Gorkiy and Soviet.

Getting mobile phone service or even internet service is rather straight forward and a good idea, even if you're here for only a few days. You get SIM cards in almost every hotel or from several providers at the exit of the airport: Megafone, O, Beeline, etc. A SIM with 1 month of unlimited data and free calls is around 800 som, and will be activated right there for you. Otherwise, to activate them, put them into your phone and then go to one of the payment machines in supermarkets, petrol stations, etc. On the screen of the machines, select the provider of your SIM, enter the phone number on the SIM and finally put in some money. For all providers you get at least 2GB data volume and many free SMS for only 100 som. You first have to select your tariff (by calling something like "*624*1#") after your payment to benefit from the low prices. This is self-explanatory if you look at the advertisements of the providers.

Go next

 * Ala-Archa National Park – A great hiking and mountain climbing opportunity right next to Bishkek.
 * Alamedin Gorge – A beautiful river valley with high routes to Ala-Archa (glacier trail) and Issyk Ata.
 * Burana Tower – An unusual and interesting minaret near the city of.