Birsay

Birsay is a small village on the north coast of Orkney Mainland. It's the site of the ruined Earl's Palace, and just offshore is the Brough of Birsay with medieval Norse remains. The surrounding farmland is dotted with ancient standing stones, some incorporated into fence-posts.

By road
From Kirkwall, take the A965 towards Stromness. The direct route is to turn right at Stenness onto A986, which at Twatt becomes A967, keep following it north to the junction of A966. You're now at Birsay, with the palace just left.

A slow scenic route is to turn off A965 earlier at Finstown onto A966, and follow this round the north coast past Tingwall and Broch of Gurness to meet A967 at Birsay.

From Stromness, take the A965 out of town, and after a mile fork left onto A967. Branch left onto either B-road if you want to visit Skara Brae, otherwise continue north. A987 is joined by A986 around Twatt, continue north to Birsay.

By bus
Henry Hudson, Cook, Frobisher: so many ill-fated expeditions have passed through the Orkneys. And then there’s the bus service to Birsay and Skara Brae.

There’s nothing on Sunday. The options Monday-Saturday are:

Bus 6 from Kirkwall at 7AM and 5:10PM to Birsay, 45 min, back at 7:50AM and 6PM. This runs along the north coast via Tingwall (for Rousay ferry) and Evie (for Broch of Gurness) but doesn’t serve Skara Brae.

Bus 7 from Kirkwall at 1:40PM and 5:30PM to Birsay, with the earlier bus heading back to Kirkwall at 2:10PM while the later bus continues at 6:10PM to Stromness. It doesn’t pass Skara Brae, but you can get off at Sandwick 2 miles away. The reverse service from Stromness only runs at 6:30AM and 7:30AM.

Bus 8S from Kirkwall at 8:30AM or 11:30AM via Stenness to Skara Brae (1 hr) then into Stromness. There are also three connections on X1 from Kirkwall to Stromness to join the return run of 8S via Birsay.

Get around
Birsay itself is small and easy to walk, but check the tide times before crossing to the Brough, eg on Easytide using Stromness as the reference port.

You need wheels to reach outlying sites such as Broch of Gurness and Click Mill, cycling is ideal.

See

 * Fishermen's Hut and Whalebone: from the Brough of Birsay carpark, walk east along the north shore. About 10 minutes down the path is a small fishermen's hut with adjacent boat rests. Down a nearby narrow stone stairway is a natural spring. A bit farther down the path is a whalebone erected in the late 19th century and a great view of the Brough.
 * Rousay is the high island seen from A966 east towards Evie and Tingwall; the ferry sails from Tingwall. Eynhallow is the small island in the channel between: it has the ruins of a Norse church, but no ferry service.
 * Click Mill is an 1820 horizontal water-mill, with its original machinery in working order. It's on Hillside Road between Evie and Dounby. Free, always open.
 * Skara Brae: for this and related neolithic sites, see Stenness.
 * Rousay is the high island seen from A966 east towards Evie and Tingwall; the ferry sails from Tingwall. Eynhallow is the small island in the channel between: it has the ruins of a Norse church, but no ferry service.
 * Click Mill is an 1820 horizontal water-mill, with its original machinery in working order. It's on Hillside Road between Evie and Dounby. Free, always open.
 * Skara Brae: for this and related neolithic sites, see Stenness.
 * Click Mill is an 1820 horizontal water-mill, with its original machinery in working order. It's on Hillside Road between Evie and Dounby. Free, always open.
 * Skara Brae: for this and related neolithic sites, see Stenness.

Buy

 * Palace Stores next to the palace is the general store, open Tu-Su 9AM-5PM. Come early for their homemade pies.
 * Birsay Books has second hand and antiquarian books. They're 2 miles south of the palace, open Th F noon-5PM, Sa Su 9AM-5PM.

Connect
As of July 2024, Birsay has no mobile signal from any UK carrier.

Go next

 * Stenness a few miles south has Skara Brae and the Stones of Stenness. Beyond those you reach either Stromness (for ferries to Hoy) or Kirkwall.
 * Following the north coast, you pass Broch of Gurness and Tingwall (for the Rousay ferry) before circling back to the Kirkwall main road.
 * Rousay island has an impressive collection of prehistoric sites.