Bethlehem

Bethlehem (Arabic: بيت لحم, Beit Lahm, Hebrew: בית לחם Beit Lechem) is a small city located some 10 km (6 miles) south of the Old City of Jerusalem within the West Bank, in an "Area A" zone administered by the Palestinian Authority.

History
The "little town" of Bethlehem, mentioned in Christmas carols, attracts pilgrims worldwide on account of its description in the New Testament (and particularly the Gospels) as the Biblical birthplace of Jesus, whom Christians believe to be Messiah and Son of God. The Church of the Nativity, one of the oldest churches in the world, is the focus of Christian veneration within the city. Modern textual analysis has almost universally drawn the conclusion that Nazareth, the place where Jesus spent most of his later life and the home town of Joseph and Mary was probably his actual birthplace, but that has not lessened the draw of this city for Christian pilgrims.

Bethlehem is also revered by Jews and Muslims as the birthplace and home town of David, Biblical prophet and King of Israel, as well as the traditional site of Rachel's Tomb (on the outskirts of the town).

Although also home to many Muslims, Bethlehem remains home to one of the largest Arab Christian communities in the Middle East (despite significant emigration which has resulted in a growing Muslim majority) and one of the chief cultural and tourism drawcards for the Palestinian community. The Bethlehem agglomeration also includes the small towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour, the latter also having Biblical significance.

Building up to the Millennium in the year 2000, Bethlehem underwent a massive largely foreign-funded project called Bethlehem 2000 in hopes of turning Bethlehem into a major tourist destination comparable to destinations such as Jerusalem or Tel Aviv in tourism infrastructure. Unfortunately, a year later, the Palestinian uprising against the Israeli occupation occurred and the ensuing violence, including a standoff between Palestinian fighters holed up in the Church of the Nativity and Israeli troops, scuttled these tourism efforts. Although tension remains high in Israeli-Palestinian relations, violence is a thing of the past in Bethlehem and many in Bethlehem hope to continue on where Bethlehem 2000 started them off.

This article also covers nearby towns, including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour.

Orientation


A long snake of town, the main thoroughfare of Bethlehem is Manger Street which stretches from Rachel's Tomb (and the road to Jerusalem) all the way to Manger Square, the focal point of the city. Manger Square is flanked by the Church of the Nativity on one side and the Mosque of Omar on the other. The Old Town and the souq (market), which are best navigated on foot, stretch up the hill from Manger Square.

The name means "The House of Bread" in Hebrew, and "The House of Meat" in Arabic. However, it seems likely that both meanings have been retrofitted onto what was originally the House of Lachma, the Mesopotamian god of fertility. The area has been settled since 5,000 BC and there is some evidence that the town is mentioned in the Egyptian Amarna letters (1400 BC). The Old Testament Book of Ruth (c. 1150 BC) has the first certain reference to Bethlehem; it tells the story of Naomi, who left Bethlehem during a famine, and later returned with her daughter-in-law Ruth. Still, Bethlehem remained a small town in the shadow of mighty Jerusalem, and according to most estimates, it had some 300 to 1000 inhabitants at the time of the event that gave Bethlehem its fame, namely the birth of Jesus.

Somewhat surprisingly, aside from noting that the Nativity indeed took place there, the New Testament virtually ignores Bethlehem. And things didn't change immediately afterwards: wrecked during the Bar-Kochba revolt (132-135 AD), the Romans set up a shrine to Adonis on the site of the Nativity. Only in 326 was the first Christian church constructed, when Helen, the mother of the first Christian emperor, Constantine, visited Bethlehem. Afterwards, it grew slowly but steadily, achieving its pinnacle as a strong fortified city during the Crusader era, but the Ottomans razed the fortifications and reduced Bethlehem back into the village it was 2000 years earlier.

The setback proved only temporary, and despite the turbulence of the 20th century the town has (as of 2000) grown to an estimated 184,000 inhabitants. On December 21, 1995, Bethlehem became one of the areas under the full control of the Palestinian Authority. In the city, 41% of the population is Christian, while 59% is Muslim. Christians used to be a large majority, but their numbers have declined throughout the 20th century. Although Arabic is the language of Bethlehem's inhabitants, English, French and other languages are widely spoken and understood by many people in Bethlehem.

Although Bethlehem is a Palestinian town, it is also tourist-oriented. Because of Bethlehem's immense potential as a tourism magnet, the Palestinian Authority maintains a constant tourist police presence in the city. For example, if there is combat in Southern Israel and the Gaza Strip, this does not mean that trips to other Palestinian cities such as Bethlehem are unsafe. Bethlehem is a safe place for tourists to visit, and tourist numbers are increasing to this hidden gem of the Holy Land.

Local information

 * Bethlehem municipal

Get in
Most travellers arrive via Jerusalem. Since Bethlehem is administered by the Palestinian Authority, there are security checks conducted by the Israeli military on access roads. When coming via the highway there are no barriers when going to Bethlehem, however on the other side there is on the road to Jerusalem. For instance, in case you're traveling by bus, soldiers will board to check the passengers' identity documents. On the local road north of Bethlehem, there's a bigger checkpoint ("Rachel's Crossing"/Checkpoint 300). To cross, one shows their passport to an Israeli soldier, places his/her bags into an x-ray machine and then walks through a metal detector, much like airport security. As with all areas under Palestinian Authority control, Israeli law forbids Israeli citizens to enter unless they receive approval from the Israeli Civil Administration. Tourists are free to enter and exit Bethlehem and go back to Jerusalem as many times as they would like without any restrictions. Make sure you bring your passport with your Israeli-issued tourist visa to enter and exit the Palestinian areas.

By car
Be careful when using a hired car, as some/many rental companies in Israel make it clear that the car has to be used, and remain, on Israeli soil.

By bus
From Jerusalem's HaNeviim bus station near Damascus Gate ("Bab el-'Amoud") bus 231 runs from here into Bethlehem (via Beit Jala). Even though the bus stop sign does not list it, bus 231 can also be boarded at the bus stop out of the Jaffa Gate and down the road a little – the bus comes from the tunnel. The average trip length is 30 min and costs ₪6.80. The is along Hebron Road about 20 min walk from the Church of the Nativity away. Also, shared taxis (sherut/servees) leave from nearby Damascus Gate and manage the trip in 20 min.

Palestinian bus 234 also leaves from HaNeviim bus station near Damascus Gate. It costs ₪4.70 and runs directly to the and back. From the checkpoint, you can either walk half an hour or take a taxi to the center of Bethlehem (₪10–25), which is about 3 km away. Egged bus 163 also goes here from the Jerusalem Central Bus Station, halting for instance at the Jaffa Gate bus stop. Travel time from Jaffa Gate is 30 min, price is ₪5.90.

From Ramallah many shared taxis (sherut/servees) leave for Bethlehem. It is just a little pain to figure out the right bus station out of the (at least) four ones in Ramallah. The trip takes about an hour, goes all the way around Jerusalem and costs ₪20.

The trip from Hebron with the final stop at the very bottom floor of the (only shared taxis (sherut)) will deliver you for less than ₪10.

From Jericho take a shared taxis (sherut/servees) for ₪12 to, a town/junction east of Jerusalem, identified with Bethany from the New Testament. Ask the driver where to get off to get to Bethlehem or take the GPS pointer as orientation. From the junction take another shared taxis to Bethlehem bus station (₪5-10).

On foot
Devoted pilgrims often prefer to walk (and in happier times there has been a large procession at Christmas), at a brisk pace the trip is doable in 2 hr but there are plenty of ups and downs along the way and the summer heat is fearsome.

Get around
Many sites of Bethlehem are within foot-reach.

But Bethlehem is a small city, so taxi rides are extremely cheap; no trip within Bethlehem city should cost more than ₪20. To travel from Bethlehem to its neighboring suburbs of Beit Sahour or Beit Jala, it should be no more than ₪25-30. Just make sure, to only take service of the taxi ride and not a guided tour, which will cost you much more.

To travel to more distant sites (such as Herodium, any of the surrounding monasteries, or Solomon's Pools), it's advisable to negotiate a price with a taxi driver at the Bethlehem bus station. Many taxi drivers are willing to take you to a site, wait there while you tour a site and then take you back to Bethlehem for a negotiated price. Whenever negotiating a taxi price, always say the lowest price you think would be reasonable for the trip, and bargain with the driver from there. The driver will start as high as he thinks he can charge and bargain down for you. Make sure to agree on a price before going into a taxi.

Do



 * Hike in the Artas Valley, believed to be the site of hortus conclusus, Solomon’s erotic Canticle or Song of Songs: “Thou art like a garden enclosed, my sister, my spouse, like a sealed fountain. Thy plantations are a paradise of delights." Artas is just a short Taxi ride outside of the city.
 * Dance at Cosmos nightclub, located in Beit Jala at the top of the hill, or at Cheers or Roots Lounge in Beit Sahour.
 * Participate in homestays and volunteer opportunities organized by the Holy Land Trust, such as the Palestine Summer Encounter in which one stays with a host family for 1–3 months, studies Arabic, volunteers in Bethlehem, visits different Palestinian and Israeli cities, and meets with both Israeli and Palestinian peace makers.
 * Celebrate Christmas in Bethlehem: spend Christmas in the town where it all began! Bethlehem is decked out in Christmas decorations for the Holiday season. Make sure to attend Midnight Mass led by the various leaders of the Holy Land's Christian denominations on Christmas Eve with the thousands of both foreign and local worshipers who gather in Manger Square outside the Church of the Nativity. Christmas is just magical in Bethlehem, there is nothing like it! The Christmas season is definitely the most exciting time to be in Bethlehem, much Christmas spirit is present in the town.
 * Free walking tours are quite popular in Bethlehem and available by local guides, with a lot of local, difficult and sometimes one-sided but still interesting history, including their related sights within Bethlehem. Search of the Internet and much will emerge. Tips appreciated.
 * Free walking tours are quite popular in Bethlehem and available by local guides, with a lot of local, difficult and sometimes one-sided but still interesting history, including their related sights within Bethlehem. Search of the Internet and much will emerge. Tips appreciated.

Learn
The All Nations Cafe organizes summer caravans where internationals can learn about the social, political and cultural fabrics of life in and around Bethlehem.

The Holy Land Trust organizes tours of many cities in Palestine for both politically inclined tourists and religious tourists. They are also able to organize homestays with local families and or short term/long term volunteer opportunities in the Bethlehem area for willing participants.

The Bethlehem Bible College offers programs and courses in English and Arabic on Biblical Studies and Theology of the Land.

Buy


While Bethlehem's souq is a lot smaller than Jerusalem's, it is much less touristy and the sellers are less aggressive and very friendly, many even offer potential customers coffee and tea. The Palestinian Authority doesn't charge a sales tax, so Bethlehem's shopkeepers charge much less for souvenirs. Bethlehem is a perfect place to practice those bargaining skills that you were hoping to try out!!

In peaceful times, Bethlehem's traders do a roaring trade in souvenirs for pilgrims to the town. In the current situation, the tour operators prefer to quickly hustle their guided groups in and out of the Nativity Church without allowing them time to look around Manger Square. Often, at the end of the tour, they will take their groups to a pre-selected souvenir shop and charge the owner of the shop a big commission for the sales made to the tour group. That means most smaller souvenir shops here are blessedly free from pilgrims, and also that the smaller shops are in desperate need of business. They remain, however, substantially less aggressive than Jerusalem's sellers. Souvenir shops in Bethlehem are much, much cheaper than in Jerusalem - with the same selection (surprisingly, many Bethlehem souvenir shops even have Jewish themed souvenirs). One must venture out of Manger square to the souvenir shops on Manger Street and also in the market place beside Manger Square past the Mosque of Omar. The smaller looking souvenir shops offer the best deals and very friendly service. Bethlehem is an awesome place to get all your Holy Land souvenirs for much, much cheaper than you would get them in Israel. If a price is listed in USD, it's a hiked price for tourists, so don't hesitate to bargain for a much lower price (you will almost always get a lower price if you ask for it).

On your way to the Milk Grotto Church, look for an Olive Wood factory located on the Milk Grotto Street. The guys there can provide you with a tour of their workshop and you can see how they hand carve things from the olive trees. Very friendly Christian family, and they also have a gift shop, where you can find really unique gifts. Also they have another gift shop right on Manger Square next to the peace center building.

Also on Milk Grotto Street there are a number of souvenir shops selling various religious gifts. The Tabash Nativity Store is friendly, not pushy, and willing to give discounts. They will also offer you a free Turkish coffee.

Visit one of Bethlehem's four refugee camps for traditional Palestinian handicrafts, handmade olive oil soap, and beautiful embroidery.



Eat



 * The Peace Center, Manger Square - excellent value and good food and local 'Canaan' wine. Clean and airy with inside and outside seating.
 * The Citadel Restaurant, Beith Sahour. Local cuisine and Taybeh beer in an old Bethlehem building with a friendly staff.
 * Random falafel stand opposite the Nativity Church. Facing the Peace Center with Nativity Church to your right, there is a falafel stand at the corner, with a basement restaurant attached. ₪8 for falafel sandwich and Fanta soda. Also has shwarma etc. Very fair prices, completely satisfactory.
 * The Citadel Restaurant, Beith Sahour. Local cuisine and Taybeh beer in an old Bethlehem building with a friendly staff.
 * Random falafel stand opposite the Nativity Church. Facing the Peace Center with Nativity Church to your right, there is a falafel stand at the corner, with a basement restaurant attached. ₪8 for falafel sandwich and Fanta soda. Also has shwarma etc. Very fair prices, completely satisfactory.

Drink


Enjoy the atmosphere and hang out with friends for dinner or a few drinks at Bistro lounge bar in Beit Jala.



Sleep
Unlike Mary and Joseph, you'll have an easy time finding somewhere to stay in Bethlehem, with many options to choose from. Because tourists often stay in Jerusalem rather than Bethlehem, Bethlehem's hotels often offer much cheaper rates than their Israeli peers to encourage tourists to stay in the region rather than day-tripping. Bargaining for a cheaper hotel price usually works in Bethlehem. Feel free to contact numerous Bethlehem hotels for quotes and compare the prices; it can save you a lot of money compared to staying in the more expensive hotels in Jerusalem

Mid range
Some of the following are probably outdated:



Splurge




Connect
Phone numbers in the Palestinian territories use one of two country codes: +970 and +972, which correspond respectively to the Palestinean Authority and Israel proper. If one of the codes won't work for a number, try again using the other.

Go next
Most major Palestinian cities are served through the Bethlehem Bus station for shared taxis (sherut) in the center at Manger Street.


 * Nearby popular sights of the West Bank include Herodium (Herodion) Park, Monastery of Mar Saba and Monastery of St. Theodosius.
 * Battir – a settlement some 5 km west of Bethlehem is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as Palestine: Land of Olives and Vines – Cultural Landscape of Southern Jerusalem.
 * Jerusalem – Besides the Dead Sea, a central focus for most people coming to this region.
 * Efrat – On the way to Hebron, if you are into wineries, this is the place to go.
 * Nablus – One of the oldest cities in the world and famous for its kunafa/kenafeh. If you are on a tight schedule and planning to go to Ramallah (the de facto seat of government of the Palestinian authority and a good starting point going further north in the West Bank), you might want to skip the latter for this more exciting Palestinian city.
 * Hebron – The traditional burial place of the Biblical patriarchs Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, and their wives.
 * Jericho – One of the oldest settlements in the world and the Middle East, and a great starting point for Kalya Beach at the Dead Sea. The latter being one of the most famous things to see/do in Israel and Jordan.
 * Negev and Judaean – deserts close to the Dead Sea, featuring amazing sites and desert landscapes, including the Ramon Crater and two other craters. Also Hiking in the Judaean Desert is very popular.