Bayonne (France)

Bayonne is a town in Pyrénées-Atlantiques in the southwest corner of France, part of the Basque region straddling the border with Spain. It's part of the triple township of BAB, Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne, which in 2021 had a population of 309,392, and as a tourist destination it's been overshadowed by the more famous Biarritz. But it has more to offer the visitor, with its charming half-timbered buildings and range of interesting sights. It's also the transport hub for the area.

Understand
The town grew up at a point where the valley of the river Adour is pinched, and dominated by a hill. As the chief town of the Basque province of Labourd, it came under English rule from 1152 when Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry II; France only regained it in 1451. Whaling and later cod-fishing were important industries, forging the Basque connection with Newfoundland and maritime Canada. Around 1500, many Jews arrived here from Spain, fleeing the Spanish Inquisition - they brought with them the art of chocolate-making, and this too became a major industry. Around 1700, Vauban enclosed Bayonne within sturdy ramparts. The town was battered and besieged in 1814 as Wellington's forces advanced out of Spain against Napeolon's France. In the 19th and early 20th century, Biarritz was a fashionable seaside resort, but Bayonne was neglected. It revived after 1951 when a gas field was discovered, and the BAB area became industrialised.

The area around Bayonne has a high proportion of Basque ("Euskara") speakers, but in the BAB conurbation only 9% were fluent, according to a survey of 2006.

By train
Trains run every two hours from Paris Montparnasse, taking 4 hours via Bordeaux and Dax. From Toulouse usually takes 4-5 hr with a change at Bordeaux, but one a day is direct, taking 3 hr 30 min via Tarbes, Lourdes, Pau and Orthez.

From Hendaye on the Spanish border, take the hourly local train, which takes 40 min via St-Jean-de-Luz and Biarritz. The hourly Euskotren runs from San Sebastián (aka Donostia) to Hendaye. From Madrid trains run to Irun, where you walk across the border to Hendaye.

the railway station is 1 km north of town centre, across the Adour river bridge.

By bus
Flixbus runs four times a day from Paris Bercy Seine, taking 10-11 hours via Bordeaux. Four buses run from Toulouse, taking four hours via Tarbes and Pau. These buses continue across the border, either to Bilbao, taking 3 hr 30 min via Hendaye and San Sebastián, or to Madrid, 8-9 hours via San Sebastián, Vitoria-Gasteiz and Burgos.

is the draughty bus stop for Flixbus; no facilities here and little shelter. Bla-bla-car share rides also pick up and drop off here but you may be able to negotiate a spot downtown.

By road
Principal autoroutes are A64 from Pau, Tarbes and Toulouse, and A63 from to Bordeaux and continuing south to the border at Irun, where it becomes AP8 towards San Sebastian

Bayonne is on the historic pilgrimage route to Santiago de la Compostella. Routes through Aquitaine converge on Bayonne then there's a choice of paths over into Spain, with way-stations a convenient day's hike apart.

Get around
Txik Txak is the public transport network for the three BAB townships. N1, N2 and N6 are free navettes in town centre. On other routes, a single ticket in 2024 is €1.20, valid for 90 min including interchange between buses. Cheaper multi-journey tickets can be bought at the kiosk by Town Hall and at tobacconists but not on the bus. These include a 10-journey ticket (€9.60), a seven-day travel pass (€13.40), and a 24-hour pass (€3.50).

South of River Adour
This is the charming Old Town, enclosed by grassy ramparts. Town and ramparts straddle a smaller river, the Nive, which here joins the Adour. West of the Nive is called Grand Bayonne and east is Petit Bayonne; the quays of the Nive are very picturesque. Several sights in Old Town close during the festival in July.
 * Château-Vieux Gaztelu Zaharra is a fortress on Allee de Poterne 100 m north of the cathedral. Parts date back to the 12th century; Napoleon considered it of no value and ordered it to be demolished, but this was never acted on. It's nowadays a military base and you can't visit. La Poterne was its west postern gate, nowadays facing the Botanic Gardens.
 * Jardin Léon Bonnat is a small public garden next to Town Hall at the river confluence. It was laid out in 1907 in classical style.
 * was the town's west gate, on the road to Pamplona. Down it went kings, pilgrims, armies and Ernest Hemingway, but most modern visitors are heading for the adjacent parking lot.
 * was the town's west gate, on the road to Pamplona. Down it went kings, pilgrims, armies and Ernest Hemingway, but most modern visitors are heading for the adjacent parking lot.
 * was the town's west gate, on the road to Pamplona. Down it went kings, pilgrims, armies and Ernest Hemingway, but most modern visitors are heading for the adjacent parking lot.
 * Château Neuf is a fortress in the city defences just east of Saint-André. It's now a university campus so you can't go inside, but you can stroll around the exterior.
 * was the east entrance to town.
 * is a restored section of city defences east bank of the Nive.
 * was the east entrance to town.
 * is a restored section of city defences east bank of the Nive.

North of river
The district of Saint-Esprit is just as old as "Old Town", but lost its medieval streets and buildings to make way for the railway station.
 * spans the Adour. The present bridge is from 1845-49, but there's been a bridge here since 1149.
 * Église de Saint-Esprit faces the railway station. It looks Spanish colonial with its mission bells.
 * La Citadelle occupies the hill just north of the railway station, fortified by Vauban in 1680. It's a military base and you can't visit.
 * La Citadelle occupies the hill just north of the railway station, fortified by Vauban in 1680. It's a military base and you can't visit.
 * La Citadelle occupies the hill just north of the railway station, fortified by Vauban in 1680. It's a military base and you can't visit.

Do

 * Barthes "has contrived — amazingly — to bestow an entirely new dignity upon the age-old activity, so long unjustly disparaged, of saying nothing at great length." - critique by Simon Leys of Roland Barthes (1915-1980) the structuralist writer, whose early years were in Bayonne


 * Theatre: Scène Nationale perform in City Hall.
 * Cinema: L'Atalanta is opposite the railway station. CGR Bayonne is a multiplex on the ring road east of Bastion Royal.
 * Boat tours cruise the river in summer, several operators.
 * Rugby: Aviron Bayonnaise play rugby union (15-a-side) in Top 14, the French top tier. Their home ground Stade Jean-Dauger (capacity 18,000) is 500 m south of town centre.
 * Bayonne Ham Fair is early April.
 * Fêtes de Bayonne is a week in mid-July. Wear white clothes with a red scarf.

Buy

 * Les Halles is a large covered market on Quai Dominique Roquebert, west bank of the Nive, open M-Th 07:00-13:30, F-Su 07:00-14:30.
 * Several convenience stores along Rue Victor Hugo in the centre of Old Town.

Eat



 * Jambon de Bayonne is local air-dried ham, an EU protected name of origin. It's slightly sweet, not salty, cut very thin as it's more chewy than cooked ham.
 * Chez Bai is an African restaurant next to Bakera at 8 Rue de Pontrique, open Tu-Sa 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00.
 * Chez Bai is an African restaurant next to Bakera at 8 Rue de Pontrique, open Tu-Sa 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00.
 * Chez Bai is an African restaurant next to Bakera at 8 Rue de Pontrique, open Tu-Sa 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00.
 * Chez Bai is an African restaurant next to Bakera at 8 Rue de Pontrique, open Tu-Sa 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00.
 * Chez Bai is an African restaurant next to Bakera at 8 Rue de Pontrique, open Tu-Sa 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00.
 * Chez Bai is an African restaurant next to Bakera at 8 Rue de Pontrique, open Tu-Sa 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00.
 * Chez Bai is an African restaurant next to Bakera at 8 Rue de Pontrique, open Tu-Sa 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00.
 * Chez Bai is an African restaurant next to Bakera at 8 Rue de Pontrique, open Tu-Sa 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00.

Drink

 * Wine: the southwest wine-growing region produces mostly whites. The famous Bordeaux region is about 150 km north.
 * Katie Daly's is an Irish pub at 3 Place de la Liberté.
 * Bar Le Corsaire is at 11 Rue des Tonneliers.
 * Xupito is at 17 Rue Pannecau.
 * Café des Pyrénées is at 62 Rue Pannecau.
 * Xapatan is at 29 Rue des Cordeliers.
 * La Pétrolette is next door at 31 Rue des Cordeliers.
 * Sankara Ostatua is at 22 Quai Augustin Chaho.

Connect
As of March 2024, Bayonne, Biarritz and their approach highways have 5G from all French carriers.

Go next

 * The beach resort of Biarritz is an easy day-trip. Take the bus, as it drops you centrally, whereas Biarritz railway station is 3 km out from the centre.
 * There's nothing to see in the town of Angelet, though the airport is here and some accommodation, and Biarritz's eastern beaches are actually in Angelet.
 * Other good day-trips are Saint Jean de Luz & Ciboure, and San Sebastián or Donostia. These can easily be reached on public transport. From San Sebastián, the "Feve" coastal railway runs west to Bilbao, Santander and eventually Ferrol.
 * For countryside pursuits, head north into Gascony and Landes, or up into the mountains. You'll need your own wheels.