Banlung

Banlung (បានលុង), although a small town, is the capital of Ratanakiri Province in Eastern Cambodia.

This part of the country is heavily forested, giving way to plantation agriculture (rubber, cashews, and oil palms) and home to 12 ethnic minority groups, giving the province a sort of "edge of civilization" feel to it. The town is growing though, new roads are being built, and some things change quite quickly.

Get in
Buses and other forms of transit going to Banlung may be advertised by the province name "Ratanakiri" rather than the town name "Banlung". Ratanakiri is a more recognizable name to Cambodians from other parts of the country, since it's the name of one of the 25 provinces they had to memorize in school.

To/from Vietnam" The O Yadaw (Cambodia)/Le Thanh (Vietnam) border crossing between Banlung and Pleiku (Gia Lai Province) and Quy Nhon in Vietnam is open to foreign travelers, but Vietnam eVisas are not accepted at this crossing, so you will need to have a physical visa in your passport from a Vietnamese embassy/consulate unless you're from a country that gets visa-free entry. Cambodia visas are available if coming the other direction. From Pleiku town, take a public van (2 hr) or taxi (1½ hr) to the border. One van go to Pleiku at 07:00 for US$10 close of roundabout (2019). The Cambodia post is isolated with no regular transport. The immigration police may help find a taxi. Bargain. Up to US$80 for a whole car or US$30 for a motorbike with driver. 70 km; 2½ hr. Hwy 78 has been completed and is now one of the best roads in Cambodia (as of June 2019 there was just one short stretch of gravel a few kilometers before the border).

By plane
Banlung has an airfield, but all scheduled airlines have stopped serving it. The Banlung runway is still a gravel strip, but there are plans to extend it and build a concrete runway, which would make it more likely to attract a new carrier and make cancellations in the wet season less frequent. Medivacs and charters are available from Helicopters Cambodia.

At Phnom Penh Airport a US$6 departure tax may be levied.

By bus
Road conditions: The road between Phnom Penh and Stung Treng has been upgraded and sealed (though a newly reconstructed road south of Kratie through Chhlong is more often used as it saves 100 km) and can be negotiated rather quickly. The road between the Stung Treng junction and Banlung is fully sealed as of 2019. North of Kratie the road is in a bad state to the Banlung turnoff, but the rest of the road is new and still in very good condition with new bridges.

It is possible to get buses to Banlung from/to:


 * Phnom Penh - Doing this in a single day is now reliable, with 4 big buses (Sorya, Rithmony, Hy Long, GST; 39,000 riel/US$9.70) and numerous minivans (40,000 riel/US$10) servicing the route regularly, departing from 06:00-07:30. The minivans are faster but the free pickup and dropoff can add 2-3 hr to the 8-hr trip.
 * Kratie - Two options:
 * Shared minibus. Leaves around 08:00, takes 5-6 hr. Costs US$8. They seat 4 people in each row of 3 seats, so it can be packed.
 * Phnom Penh Sorya Transport bus. Leaves 13:00, then stops for lunch just out of Kratie for at least half an hour, so if you miss the bus at the station you can always catch up with it. Takes about 6 hours; usually arrives between 19:00-20:00. Costs US$8.


 * Stung Treng - 3-5 hr, later departures.
 * Laos - It is possible to buy a ticket to Four Thousand Islands in Laos from Banlung. These are not direct buses; you must take three buses, switching at Stung Treng and at the border, and then a boat to your final destination. Costs US$14–18. On both sides of the border, the officials will try to charge "processing fees" for stamping your passport and possibly an inflated visa on arrival fee on the Lao side; see the main Laos article for more information.
 * Vietnam - Travel agents in Banlung can book you a 6am cross-border bus to Pleiku in Vietnam. Vietnam eVisas are not accepted at this crossing, so before going make sure that either (1) your nationality gets visa-free entry or (2) you have a physical visa already in your passport (available at Vietnamese embassies and consulates abroad).

Minivan hints: all buses and minivans are often late, but minivans may arrive/leave early if they're ahead of schedule and may not wait, so be prepared to leave at least 15 min before departure, especially in the morning when you may be their first pick-up. Also, if you are changing minivans, do not stray too far from your drop-off point. If the minivan turns up and doesn't see you around, they may think you haven't turned up for some reason and go off without you. Let someone know if you have to go somewhere. It is also possible to buy an extra seat when you book if you are concerned about being squashed or if you are on the big side: 3 seats for 2 people is close to 2 normal places.

By private taxi
A more expensive option than bus, taking a private taxi from Phnom Penh to Banlung is possible, for about US$120. It's a 5-6 hour drive to the junction near Stung Treng, then 2–4 hours to Banlung, plus meal breaks. Some taxi drivers in Phnom Penh specialize in this trip. Your hotel or guesthouse will probably be able to help you out.

Get around
The best way to get around Ratanakiri Province is by motorcycle, either by renting one and then driving it yourself, or by hiring one of the ubiquitous motodop drivers hanging all around town. Almost no one outside the town will speak English, so it may be a good idea to hire a guide to go with you to some of the villages. Also, going alone into the indigenous villages may offend them at religious occasions, such as when they close the village and hold ceremonies to please the spirits.


 * You can possibly rent bicycles near the roundabout. Sometimes they are unavailable. One shop is quite strict about taking passports as deposit. It is better instead to go to Bona Tours, just southeast of the roundabout. They have motorbikes and bicycles, and Mr. Bona is a friendly, English-speaking owner. Banlung Balcony, formerly Lakeview Lodge, also has bikes for rent for US$1.
 * For motorbike rentals, there is a shop on the highway just west of the roundabout, the Ratanak Hotel, a shop near Tribal Hotel, or most guesthouses. Readily available are the smaller 125cc semi-step through bikes for about US$5–7/day. These are the types that you will be seeing many Khmer driving. If you'd prefer a bigger bike, they can obtain a 250cc bike for US$10/day. In Reggae Bar and Restaurant, in street 25 with 46 you can rent motorbikes for US$6-8/day
 * You can also rent trucks or 4 x 4 vehicles for US$30–50/day, and renting a car with a driver is usually helpful. This rent can be organized by various hotels and restaurants, and at Parrot tours. For bigger groups, Dutch Co & Co and Terres Rouges Lodge rent a Landcruiser with driver/guide which can carry up to eight persons although it is a bit more expensive.
 * Most guesthouses will arrange guides and these generally get good reviews. There are also tour shops in the town.

See
Banlung is near several spectacular natural attractions, including waterfalls, lakes, natural parks and hill tribe villages.



Do



 * Go on a rafting trip or jungle trek, visit a hill tribe cemetery, seven-tier waterfall and mining villages with a local guide. These can be tailored to your taste but can be expensive for only one or two people.
 * Respect the locals. Ethnic minorities are animist and many taboos exist. At certain times, e.g. village sacrifice ceremonies, outsiders may not enter the village. Look out for signs, such as fresh tree leaves hanging in front of the village gate or house. Taking photos of people or places in hill tribe villages can break a taboo or disturb the spirits so get permission, and you may be fined if you don't. If you are unsure about local traditions, do not enter villages without a knowledgeable guide.

Eat
Eat responsibly in Banlung and don't encourage poaching by eating the local wildlife.

There's not much to differentiate Banlung cuisine from other Cambodian towns. All but three restaurants are owned and run by Cambodians. Aside from restaurants located in guesthouses, there are several eateries that serve Western food. All of these serve a variety of Cambodian and Western food and drinks. The staff are friendly and dishes start at around US$1.50 or 6,000 riel.



Drink
South of the roundabout are four shops selling beer, wine and spirits, all a bit more expensive than more accessible places like Phnom Penh. The range of wines is modest.





Sleep
















Stay safe
There have been some muggings around Banlung, and some gang robberies targeting isolated farms. In February 2009, a French tourist was shot during an attempted robbery after he became lost looking for Cha Ong Waterfall outside Banlung. You should not resist if accosted.

Go next

 * Kratie - A pleasant riverside town which is a nice place to break the long journey to Phnom Penh.
 * Stung Treng - The town most tourists pass through on the way to Laos.