Bamiyan



Bamiyan is the main town in Bamiyan Province. Bamiyan is one of the main tourist attractions in Afghanistan, largely due to the giant destroyed Buddha statues. It's also one of the most picturesque regions in the country. The "Cultural Landscape and Archaeological Remains of the Bamiyan Valley" is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Understand
It lies at an altitude of around 2 500 m and in the summer its comfortable climate provides a relief from the heat of the lower areas of the country.

Almost everything revolves around one main road running east/west. The buddhas are on the cliff face to the north.

By car
From Kabul there are two very rough dirt roads to Bamiyan, the southern route through Wardak Province and across Hajigak Pass being shorter, more dangerous and more frequently used by public transport. It's advisable to try to blend in on this route for the first hour or so out of Kabul - using a scarf as the Afghans do to cover your head, nose and mouth keeps the dust out and helps to lower your profile. Toyota 4WD shared minivans seating 5-10 passengers leave Kabul starting at 04:00 daily and cost 400 Afghanis (you may have to and should bargain hard for this price), and take around 9 hours. The northern route starts from the road heading north from Kabul, near Charikar. For an hour and a half on good tarmac road. From Charikar it goes through Parwan Province, passing Ghorband towards Shibar Pass (some 2 900 m) on a gravel road refurbished in 2007. Total travelling time some 8 hours. Several check-posts require a local guide.

From Herat it is a very long and hard multi-part journey via the minaret of Jam, taking at least 3 days in Toyota minivans. Enquire in Herat about the current safety situation.

From Mazar-e Sharif the old route to Kabul runs through Bamiyan. The gravel road within Bamyan Province (from Du-Ab) has some bottlenecks.

When you're ready to make an exit, minivans depart from Mama Najaf's restaurant daily for Kabul (9 hours, 400 Afs). Inquire here for any other destinations you may have in mind, if there's not something heading there you can arrange a private hire minivan.

By plane


The Red Cross (ICRC) runs flights for its personnel only. The UN Humanitarian Air Service (UNHAS) has regular flights available for UN and NGO staff, humanitarian workers and journalists. The ISAF contingent's (New Zealand) Hercules transport aircraft resupply the base there. Whilst it is very unlikely that they'll allow passengers it does provide a dramatic photo opportunity. The same goes when VIPs visit and bring along Apache/Cobra attack helicopters for protection.

Get around
Bamiyan town is small and walking is the best option. Around the region you can hire Toyota minivans for day trips from the stand in front of Mama Najaf's Restaurant. Also, along the road in front of the large Buddha is the tourist office (in a pink building on the south side of the road) and you can hire a guide. The guide is well worth it for the money.

The Roof of Bamiyan hotel also has vehicles for rent.

See



 * The Buddhas were built by the Gandharan Kingdom which ruled the area a few centuries BCE. For that kingdom's capital and better-preserved art of the same period, see Taxila.
 * The Buddhas were built by the Gandharan Kingdom which ruled the area a few centuries BCE. For that kingdom's capital and better-preserved art of the same period, see Taxila.


 * The area around the Buddhas and to the west is interesting to walk around (stay on well-used paths). Many of the buildings were destroyed in war and there are occasional leftover weapons and destroyed jeeps, one of which is now used as a bridge over a stream.
 * Caves are abundant throughout the mountainside, many of them used as residences. It's best to observe from a distance, out of respect for the residents and for your safety.

Do

 * Skiing is a major activity in the Bamiyan Valley.

Eat

 * Several chaikhanas provide staple Afghani food such as pulao (rice with seasonal vegetable and mutton), naan and plenty of green tea. Alternatively have some kebab with fresh yoghurt from sheep's milk.
 * For finer dining, try contacting the Hotel Silk Road Bamiyan (, see below) and reserve a table for dinner. Whatever type of cuisine they may serve that day, it's bound to be good.

Budget
The only really cheap option for travelers is to stay in one of several chaikhanas, where your meal (~60 Afs) includes a space on the floor for the night. Most don't have toilets or showers, so take advantage of the hammam near the Zuhak Hotel. (this "hammam" is only for men.)


 * Mama Najafs Restaurant is probably the most popular of the chaikhanas, as this is where the minivans arrive to and depart from.

Connect

 * Bamiyan Business Center, east of Zuhak Hotel and across Kabul City Bank, is the only internet cafe in Bamiyan. 90 Afs/hour. In May 2010, this was not working.
 * Mobile phone service providers with reception in Bamiyan city are Roshan, AWCC, Etisalat and Areeba (MTN). Areeba has the better coverage around Bamiyan Province. AWCC and Etisalt have GPRS available, so you can have internet (although slow).

Stay safe
Bamiyan is regarded as one of the safer destinations in Afghanistan. Its remoteness and the largely Hazara population have kept it distant from most of the fighting.

The southern route to Kabul is considered dangerous for the hour or so stretch just out of Kabul where it travels through several villages. Most public transport takes this route, so keep a low profile in those areas and cover your head with a scarf as the Afghans do.

There are many landmines and unexploded ordnances (UXO) in Bamiyan despite a continued presence by ISAF. Stay on well used paths and steer well clear of red-painted rocks. White-painted rocks indicate paths that have been cleared of mines.

Go next



 * Band-e Amir – one of the most stunningly beautiful natural sights in the whole country, these turquoise lakes are definitely worth the effort. Day trips are popular, but if you have the time and don't mind roughing it, an overnight stay affords the best experience. A private hire minivan should run around 2000-3000 Afs depending on bargaining skills, and takes about 3 hours.
 * Shahr-e Zohak is a fort some 20 km back towards Kabul that requires a jeep to get to. It's a ruined city at the top of cliffs. Your guide from the Buddhist site can also guide you here. Very interesting and great views from the top. En route from Bamiyan there are also guard towers that are UNESCO world heritage sites.