Bahir Dar

Bahir Dar, also spelt Bahar Dar, on the southern shore of Lake Tana, the biggest lake in Ethiopia, is the third largest city in the nation, after Addis Ababa and Dire Dawa, with a population of a quarter of a million. It's the capital of the Amhara region, dominated by the Amhara people, the Ethiopia's second largest grouping; the Ethiopian official language is Amharic. Bahir Dar is a clean and well-maintained city by African standards. Even the cheaper accommodation has neat, but basic, services.

By plane


In July 2021, adult 1-way direct trip from Addis Ababa were around 4377 birr ($102) for foreigners, or 2421 birr ($56) for Ethiopians and residents (or those who have flown Ethiopian internationally - note that you can get the discounted prices by simply booking a ticket, for instance a refundable Nairobi to Addis fare, for the near future).

By car
Bahir Dar is 555 km north-east by road from Addis Ababa, using national highway 3. It's 170 km south of Gondar via road 3, and 314 km east of Lalibela via Woreta.

By bus
The city is connected by daily buses from Addis Ababa and Gondar. Many private minibuses also run from Gondar and Addis Ababa. They often do not leave from the bus station but are instead arranged through your hotel or by local touts (who will find you before you find them!). The minibuses are more expensive but faster, especially from Addis Ababa. Try Selam bus or Sky bus for a more comfortable (and potentially safer) ride.

From Gondar, minibuses leave from a bus station near Azezo (July 2019) in the south of the town. You can take a local minibus to reach Azezo (10 birr) or a bajaj (200 birr). From Gondar to Bahir Dar, a bus should cost 85 birr and take around 3 hours.

To get to Bahir Dar from Lalibela by bus, take a dawn bus to Gashina (about two hours south of Lalibela) and change there to the Woldia - Bahir Dar bus, which passes through Gashina around 10:00. To get from Bahir Dar to Lalibela, take the dawn Bahir Dar - Woldia bus and catch the last Lalibela bus at Gashena, which passes through around 15:00.

By boat
A ferry service runs between Bahir Dar and Gorgora via Dek Island and villages on the lakeside.

Get around
Bajajs (three-wheel rick-shaws) are the most common form of transportation in the city. There are also blue minibuses, but few still exist as means to get around town. Bajajs are inexpensive and cost no more than two birr per line of road and 30-50 birr for a private charter.

See












Do

 * Cycling Bikes can be rented at Ghion Hotel.

Buy
Bahir Dar has a big and colourful market that is open every day. Saturday is the biggest day. Sunday has very few activities.

The local speciality is small footstools covered in goat hide. Find them along the road that runs from Ghion hotel to the main highway. They can apparently be "unstuffed" for travel.

There are many ATMs that accept MasterCard & Visa cards at Dashen Bank and Ethiopia Commercial Bank.

Eat

 * Tana Restaurant serves fabulous fish dishes cheaply.
 * Al-Hanan Muslim Restaurant, near the Dalot Pension, serves huge and tasty mutton dishes, even during Lent. Also a good place for an Ethiopian coffee ceremony. The owners are exceedingly nice and don't charge tourists extra.
 * Tana Restaurant serves fabulous fish dishes cheaply.
 * Al-Hanan Muslim Restaurant, near the Dalot Pension, serves huge and tasty mutton dishes, even during Lent. Also a good place for an Ethiopian coffee ceremony. The owners are exceedingly nice and don't charge tourists extra.
 * Tana Restaurant serves fabulous fish dishes cheaply.
 * Al-Hanan Muslim Restaurant, near the Dalot Pension, serves huge and tasty mutton dishes, even during Lent. Also a good place for an Ethiopian coffee ceremony. The owners are exceedingly nice and don't charge tourists extra.

Drink

 * There are many cultural night clubs throughout the city center.
 * There are a few Western music clubs, with Dream House and a bar above Friendship Cafe the most popular.
 * There are a few Western music clubs, with Dream House and a bar above Friendship Cafe the most popular.

Sleep
Prices are changing quickly.


 * Koriftu Resort is a nice getaway after roughing it around Ethiopia. One of the nicest resorts in Ethiopia with a complimentary massage for every night's stay. Good, but expensive, restaurant and a nice pool.
 * Dalot Pension, near the bus station, singles from 20 birr, modern, clean and convenient, best value in town.
 * Tana Pension. Rooms from US$2.50, the food is marvelous.
 * Tana Pension. Rooms from US$2.50, the food is marvelous.





Stay safe
Like many other cities in Ethiopia, Bahir Dar is generally safe and free of violent crimes.

You may encounter some hustlers around the shore of Lake Tana to get you rent a boat they may get a kick-back for. The boats on Lake Tana that take you to visit the monasteries have fixed rates. Make sure the self-appointed "brokers" won't get you charged a jacked up fee for the boats.

Connect
As of 2019, the city has only (relatively slow) 3G coverage. Hotel Wi-Fi is not always faster.

Go next

 * Gondar – to the north and the nearest big city, it has a complex of castles and palaces
 * Lalibela – to the west, its rock-hewn churches are a big attraction