Bagan

Bagan (Burmese ပုဂံ) is an area and archaeological site in the Central region of Myanmar, inscribed as a.

Understand
Bagan, also spelled Pagan, on the banks of the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River, is home to the largest and densest concentration of Buddhist temples, pagodas, stupas and ruins in the world, many dating from the 11th and 12th centuries. The shape and construction of each building is highly significant in Buddhism with each component taking on spiritual meaning.

When comparing this immense archaeological site to other archaeological gems of Southeast Asia, the Angkor sites, an analogy with food is apt: savouring the Angkor sites is like a Chinese Lauriat banquet where the temples are presented in grand and exquisite servings and takes a long time (about 10 to 15 minutes) to get from one to the next. Bagan is served up Spanish tapas-style, in small bite size servings, often in frequent intervals and near to each other.

What makes the temples look romantic is the process of graceful ageing. There are no windbreaks and occasional whirlwinds spawn loose dust particles that sandblast the temples. This has eroded the stucco coatings of the temples to reveal the underlying bricks, reddish, and golden brown when bathed in sunlight.

Erosion is a significant threat to this area, not only the wind chipping away the buildings' parging, but also water from the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River threatens the riverbanks. Strong river currents have already washed away half of the area of Old Bagan. It used to be a rectangular-shaped piece of enclave protected by a perimeter wall. Now the remaining triangular eastern half is exposed to the river.

Bagan has three main cities that draw the majority of tourists, (southwest of the main sights),  (northeast of the main sights) and  (just northwest of the main sights).

History
Bagan became powerful in the mid-9th century under King Anawratha, who unified Burma under Theravada Buddhism. It is estimated that as many as 13,000 temples and stupas once stood on this 42km2 plain in central Myanmar, and Marco Polo once described Bagan as a "gilded city alive with tinkling bells and the swishing sounds of monks' robes". Approximately 2,200 temples remain, in various states of disrepair. Some are large and well maintained, such as the Ananda Pahto, others are small tumbledown relics in the middle of overgrown grass. All sites are considered sacred, so when visiting, be respectful. Remove footwear and socks before entering or stepping onto them.

Bagan's golden age ended in 1287 when the kingdom and its capital city was invaded and sacked by the Mongols. Its population was reduced to a village that remained among the ruins of the once larger city. In 1998, this village and its inhabitants were forcibly relocated a few kilometres to the south of Bagan, forming "New Bagan" where accommodation is a handful of cheap, quaint, clean hotels, and religious centres.

Despite the majesty and importance of Bagan, UNESCO did at one conference opt to not include it on its World Heritage List, because some temples were rebuilt in an un-historic fashion. Nonetheless, the site is perhaps as impressive as the pyramids of Egypt: a dry, vast open landscape dominated entirely by votive architecture. Bagan was finally listed in 2019.

Get in
Most incoming travel for Bagan, except for some ferries, is through Nyaung U.

By bus


From specific destinations:
 * Mount Popa – 50 km southeast, local pickup, 1½ hr, 1,000-1,500 kyat.
 * Mandalay – Many comfortable bus links from Mandalay are available, many in the morning between 06:00 and 10:00, but there are also minibuses in the afternoon. 5-8 hr, 7–8,000 kyat. Private taxis can be rented for US$80-100.
 * Yangon – From Aung Mingalar Highway Bus Station morning and evening buses are available. Book sufficiently ahead, because this is a popular tourist route. 9-11 hr, 13–18,000 kyat (VIP 2+1 bus are about 20–33,000 kyat). Go at least 2 hours in advance from Yangon city centre (Sule paya) to Aung Mingalar Highway Bus Station by public bus number 36.
 * Inle Lake (Nyang Shwe) – Air conditioned buses are available for around 14,000 kyat and take 9 hr. In case no direct buses are available, try to catch the Taunggyi bus from the junction 12 km north of Inle at around 07:00. The same buses go through Kalaw; 7 hr from there.
 * Taunggyi – Buses from Taunggyi (06:00) go by (12 km) but not through Inle Lake (Nyang Shwe), but also through Kalaw (7 hr). 10 hr.
 * Pyay – Due to the new and direct highway between Yangon and Mandalay, it has become harder to catch a bus to Bagan from Pyay. However, there is one at 17:00 for 11,000 kyat or more, which takes about 10 hr to Bagan. You can also take one of the more frequent buses to Magway, and onward travel to Bagan from there for a similar price.
 * Magway – 6 hr, 4,000 kyat.
 * Mrauk U – There are no direct buses available, you will have to take a bus to Magway (09:00 & 12:00, 16 hr, 24–27,000 kyat) or to Mandalay (08:00 and 10:00) and get off at Magway or (19 hr, same price as Mandalay). From there it should be easy to catch onward transport, pickup/van or another bus. Check the bus does goes through there (Kyauk Padaung), especially when entering the bus in Mrauk U. Often the ticket seller and the bus are different companies, because passengers are shuffled around depending on the availability of buses. The Kyauk Padaung route is preferable, because Kyauk Padaung is very close to Bagan and you can visit Mount Popa on the way, to enjoy the sunrise in the temple on top of the cliff. 20 hr, 28,000 kyat.

By train

 * Train to Bagan from Mandalay 4.jpg

It is sometimes rough, smelly, slow and full of insects. Those train tickets are worth their prices. It can make for a nice story if you survive the night.

From specific destinations:
 * Yangon – Overnight trains run daily, departing about 16:00in Yangon and arriving about 09:00 in Bagan the next day. Fares are: upper class sleeper (16,500 kyat), upper class seat (12,000 kyat), ordinary class seat (4,500 kyat).
 * Mandalay – There are two direct train service running to Bagan daily, one departing at 07:20 and arriving at 18:45, and one departing at 21:00 and arriving at 04:59 the next day. Only the night train, which might not operate in the low season, has 1st class so check in advance. otherwise you will have limited room to store your stuff and uncomfortable seat in an incredibly crowded train. Tickets are available at the railway station for 1,800 kyat (1st class) and 1,300 (ordinary seat).
 * Pyay – The situation about the train from Pyay is unclear, and it may be seasonal only. Pyay is not along the regular Yangon to Bagan route. Prices should be around 5–7,000 kyat for upper class. However, there are three daily trains from Yangon (Kyemyindine or central) to Pyay for 3,900 kyat upper class.

By boat
The boat from and to Mandalay is at, 1.5 km northeast of Nyaung U market. Another point for ferries is the, 350 m northeast of Bu Paya.

Mandalay An (almost daily) "express" ferry service runs down the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) from Mandalay to Bagan taking about 9-12 hr (or something like 30 km/h). Prices are US$35/40. It is more of a slow pleasure cruise than a rush express trip thanks to the priceless river views and fresh air, the glimpse of country life with locals waving at you. Keep in mind that the Ayeyarwady is an enormous river over a mile wide, so your views of the countryside may not be what you expect. Some travellers report disappointment in this regard. MGRG Express Ferry leaves Gawwein jetty in Mandalay at 07:00 and arrives in Bagan at 17:00 for US$45. River travel is not possible during the low water months of April to June. Bookings can be made through website, hotel, any travel agent, MTT (government tourist information) or the IWT office on 35th street in Mandalay a few hundred metres from the river.

A (very) slow local ferry covers the same route less frequently and costs 18,000 kyat. Takes between 14-17 hr, but is a great opportunity to mix with the locals. Apparently only runs Sunday and Wednesday, so check ahead. Plastic chairs are available to rent on board. Otherwise, bring something to sit on and a cover for the early hours (leaves around 05:00) and evening. Locals will be grateful to share theirs if you ask or if they see you shivering. Tickets are available directly on the boat or through any travel agent.

The boat disembarks at a jetty in Ngaung U. Just after leaving the jetty, there is the toll station to pay 25,000 kyat for the Bagan entry ticket.

Pyay Every Saturday at 05:30 there is also a local ferry from Pyay. It arrives Tuesday at 17:30 (48 hr) and costs 20,000 kyat. However, the arrival times seem to vary widely, so check ahead.

By plane


From the airport to New Bagan takes about 15–20 min by car, and usually this will cost around 7-10,000 kyat. Most mid-range and luxury hotels will provide free pickup from the airport.

Fees and permits
Before entering Bagan, if travelling by bus, you will be taken directly to a ticket booth (directly at the airport or on the road between the Highway Bus Terminal and the airport road junction, about 1 km from the Bus Terminal) where you present your passport and purchase a ticket to the whole archaeological site valid for 5 days from the day of purchase. The price is either US$20 or 25,000 kyat as of June 2019&mdash;you can choose either currency. The tickets are mostly only ever checked at Htilominlo Temple and Shwesandaw Temple. Some people believe that the money is not used for the site but goes directly into government pockets. If arriving by bus late at night, the driver may bypass the ticket booth.

Introduction
Nobody can be expected to visit more than 20 of these structures, let alone all 2,000. One day in Bagan is enough (even with a bicycle) to see all desired temples and sights if started at sunrise and finishes at sunset. A second day can be used to concentrate on specific sights or dos, like Mount Popa, a cruise across the river or just a relaxed hang-around somewhere in Old Bagan.

Most of the major temples have signs in English and are large enough to see, but a GPS may be required to find smaller temples.

"Disgraceful tourist behaviour" is banned and officials are becoming stricter. To the disappointment of some tourists climbing the "venerated" pagodas for the terrific views of the Bagan area is prohibited. Many locals find such activity to be disrespectful, and it risks damaging the fragile structures. As of May 2016, this restricts entry to the top in many of the pagodas except five. As a kind of compensation large dirt banks have been constructed for tourists to climb and see sunrise and sunset. There is also an enormous viewing tower.

Understand
The three basic building blocks of typical Bagan temples are stupa, block base, and vestibule. With a little practice, you can deconstruct the structures into their basic elements.

The simplest structure starts with a stupa shaped like a chess pawn. It holds a tiny sacred piece of human remains, relics of the Buddha, or a simple commemorative votive piece. Some stupas have a single pierced niche housing a Buddha icon, which can be viewed by the devotee from the outside.

As complexity increased the niches became bigger and no longer fit in the stupa, so a cube block base was introduced to accommodate the enlarged niche, which eventually became a cell. With the cube block casing the cell now fully defined, the stupa became its topping. Then, the cube's cell's entrance developed a vestibule, while the cell increased to two (back to back), eventually completing all the sides, one for each cardinal compass point (north-south-east-west), and eventually as it became bigger, a dark claustrophobic ambulatory connected all four cells.

Becoming more articulate and intricate, the cube's top taper into two to three tiers and are decorated with smaller corner spires on each while the vestibule protruded further and further out, the doorways decorated with pediments, some with upturned, others with downturned, teeth-like decoration. In others, the tiers became prominent to resemble a stepped pyramid. Meanwhile, the stupa became more elaborate as mouldings multiplied and sets of tiers and niches were introduced. From a simple gourd-shaped stupa, it evolved into a complex structure.

Itineraries
When planning for the best way to see Bagan, read all the comments and descriptions below, choose the sights you want to see and at what time, and put together a tour using the map view available at the top right, where all temples are listed based on their GPS marker. If you use an app like OsmAnd for your smartphone, you can transfer the GPS markers for offline use.

The following five sights are recommended to avoid the crowds but still have a lasting experience of Bagan: Law Ka Ou Shaung Temple (best for sunrise at 05:00), Old Bagan (just after sunrise before the crowds tramp in), Gawdaw Palin Temple (epic temple nowadays blocked by little shops and no 1st floor option anymore, but with a great view from the small forgotten temple to the south across the road), Pathada Temple (with an Buddha facing sunset, great opportunity to catch a Buddha outdoor in this area), Myauk Guni Temple (one of the best sunset view, find the hidden passage that lead to the 7th floor).

The following nine sights are a subjective but recommended selection of worthy and beautiful Bagan temples: Sein Nyet Sister Temples (very calm and uncrowded), Shwesandaw Pagoda (after sunrise when the crowds have dissipated), That Byin Nyu Temple (uncrowded and great view onto Ananda Temple), Ananda Temple (bypass Disneyland and enjoy the quiet courtyard), Sulamani Temple (very picturesque and great illumination by the sun), Thambula Temple (very bright, great for pictures), Dhamma Yangyi Temple (possibly largest, mysterious temple with a juicy gory history), Pyathadar Temple (great for sunset).

Main temples




Other temples






Buy
Bagan offers lacquer ware, cloth paintings, T-shirts, and other handicrafts. It is considered "friendly" to grant a customer 10% off, but it is common for initial prices to be double what you can get with bargaining. If you haggle, remember to keep it friendly.

Staff at the ticket booths sell pirated copies of George Orwell's Burmese Days for around US$5, though if you negotiate you can get them down to US$1. Maps are also sold for 1,000 kyat, although they are available free from hotels and guest houses. You can always ask for one even if you aren't a guest there.

There are several ATMs available in Nyaung U and New Bagan.



Eat
There are many places to eat in Old Bagan serving the traditional Burmese dishes, especially noodle soup. Some of the buffets are excellent; for about 1,500-2,000 kyat you can eat to your heart's content from dozens of different traditional dishes.



Drink
Too many options exist to list them all, and they are very volatile. Just looking around in the guest house and restaurant areas is the best option.

Sleep
Many accommodation options are available in New Bagan (around the roundabout) and Nyaung U (along the northern main road) - just walking around will give you plenty of options to chose from and to compare. Find many locations in OpenStreetMap (OsmAnd) or Google Maps. Most backpackers prefer New Bagan over Nyaung U. In Old Bagan, only some government-involved, luxury hotels remain. However, the latter is the one closest to most sights.

Book ahead in high season or during holidays; it can fill up quickly. In case you are unlucky, try Eden Motel II, they often make dorm-like room for mattresses on the second floor, when Bagan is very busy. Otherwise, in case you have a travel mattress and sleeping bag, opt for a night under the stars on the roof of (squared temple) 1-2 km outside of Nyaung U on the right side of the road west towards the temples - the staircase is in (one of) the outer walls to the north.

Prices can vary widely, even if quoted below, depending on the time of year and how you do the booking (email, website, direct). Certainly, the best option is to simply walk in at low season, ask for the price and see the room.

Stay safe

 * The best footwear to go about in this site is a pair of sandals. You'll want something easy to slip on and off as you go from temple to temple. Wearing socks and laced shoes is a hassle. Wearing shoes or socks in the temple and pagods grounds is disrespectful in Buddhism.
 * Be careful when you climb the stairs of less-visited temples, as bees sometimes make hives on or in the temples.
 * Headgear and sunscreen against the sun is also important. A wide brimmed hat is recommended or pack a collapsible umbrella like the locals.
 * Bring a bottle of water and when empty, refill it at the nearest travel agency or bank branch. If not squeamish, refill it at the water stations (with local ceramic jars as water containers) ubiquitously and strategically placed all around the town. Water in these temple jars is safe, as it is distilled water, and the jar keeps the water cool because it allows some evaporation. At less popular temples, check the water first to make sure the it is fresh.
 * Bagan is not for those with respiratory illnesses as the air is full of dust.
 * When using an e-bike, be careful of the sand. You can easily hydroplane on the loose dirt and crash, or get your bike stuck on hills. Go slow.
 * If you are using a bike for your personal tour, when you leave it by the gate, it is most likely that your bike will still be there when you get back. Bagan is a family-village setting and anyone who does harm to anybody will be known and humiliated, if not prosecuted.
 * Souvenir vendors, young and old, some as young as 6 years, are pros. They manipulate the heartstrings of the tourists using subtle and psychological techniques. They initially act as your bike minders, then guides, eventually revealing their true intentions. They sometimes even offer to visit you at your hotel if you aren't decided or you have no available cash. Don't fall for their friendliness, and be firm in your refusal before they get too attached to you even if you insist that you are only a tourist on budget. They are hard to shake off and will persist.
 * Do not fall for the "your hotel/guest house does not exist anymore" trick of many taxi drivers. They are just trying to drop you off at their friend's guesthouse or hotel where they will get a commission.
 * When you need to hire a taxi to get from the bus station to your hotel, make sure you get a good reasonable estimate of the price from a trustworthy source, such as your hotel, before you arrive. The drivers start by double or triple quoting the price for tourists, and this is especially so if you are arriving at an odd timing (22:00 - 05:00). The better option would be to ask your hotel to arrange transport.
 * Village children - If you stop on your e-bike to look at your map, be aware that children may approach you and twist the bike's accelerator, causing the bike to lurch forward. In addition, children have started to sell postcards that they've drawn. Do not buy from children: the more you buy the more you keep them out of school.

Go next
For questions regarding travel and potential restrictions, see in No.6 Quarter, Aung Myay Thar Ward, Nyaung U (+95-9-5019088).

By road
Many buses leave from Bagan Shwe Pyi Highway Bus Terminal south of Nyaung U into all directions. Best compare prices of the travel agents south of Nyaung U market or book directly at the Bus Terminal, try JJ express bus Nyaung U. Seldom buses are not full, and consequently do not allow for spontaneous travel, in which case you may want to try one of the many minibuses or vans, which can also be booked near Nyaung U Market with similar prices.


 * Mount Popa – This attraction is a temple on a cliff and a mountain and crater, which can be climbed for an even better view. From Mount Popa or Kyauk Padaung respectively, onward travel to Mandalay (via Meiktila), Pyay (via Magway) or Mrauk U (via Magway) is possible. Taking local transport southeast from Nyaung U by the Highway Bus Station, the price is about 1,000-1,500 kyat one-way for the 50 km.
 * Meiktila – This is more a transport hub for onward travel to Kalaw, Mandalay or Naypyidaw. The bus there costs 5,000 kyat.
 * Monywa – Famed for its two giant Buddhas (Boddhi Tataung), one standing and one lying, and the 500,000 Buddha sculptures Thanboddhay Pagoda. Local (non air-con) bus cost 3,000 kyat at the bus station (that is the locals' price so haggle) At hotels, they charge about 5,000 kyat. They can pick you up along the main road. The bus starts at 07:30, 09:00, 10:30 and 12:30. and takes about 3–4 hr, including several stops.
 * Mandalay – Famous for the U Bein Bridge, the Buddha face washing, as well as the nearby mountains by train. Buses to Mandalay leave at 08:00, 08:30. and in the afternoon, takes 6-8 hr and costs 7,500-15,000 kyat, bargain hard.
 * Kalaw, Inle Lake, Taunggyi – Inle Lake is one of the most famous sights in Myanmar, a giant lake only a few metres deep with many local villages around and in the lake. "Hiking" tours are very famous (but also very touristic) between Inle Lake and Kalaw. There are several daily buses (07:30 & 19:30) and at least one minibus at 20:00 to Kalaw and Inle Lake (Nyang Shwe) which cost around 12,000 kyat and take around 7-8 hr to Kalaw and a few more to reach Inle. Some do only stop along the highway, 12 km away from Inle Lake, and go further to Taunggyi (10 hr). The bus should pick you up from your hotel in Nyaung U. The ride up into the hills to Kalaw is steep and scenic, and the road quality is normal for Myanmar.
 * Pyay – Famous for the nearby and ancient Pyu city. The bus from the Bagan Shwe Pyi Highway Bus Terminal leaves at 13:30 and takes about 10 hr. From 11,000 kyat.
 * Magway – A transport hub for Mrauk U and Pyay. The bus from Bagan to Magway leaves the bus station near the airport at 10:00,12:30 and 23:30. Takes 6 hr and costs 4,000 kyat.
 * Mrauk U (& Sittwe) – Mrauk U is famous for its ancient sights of the last great kingdom and its traditional, surrounding Chin Villages. Starting from Bagan, you have to take a bus to Magway or Kyauk Padaung (southwest of Mt. Popa) and switch to the bus to Mrauk U (or Sittwe). In Magway, catch the bus near the bridge across the Irrawaddy river or in front of the K.H.M. Fashion store. In Kyauk Padaung, along the east to west main road. The bus from Magway or Kyauk Padaung to Mrauk U or Sittwe is about 25–27,000 kyat and takes 16-22 hr.
 * Yangon – Night buses to Yangon leave in the afternoon and arrive early in the morning. There is one day bus that departs Bagan at 09:00. Try to buy directly at the bus station or compare travel agents, prices at hotels can be higher. 13–18,000 kyat, 13 hr.

By train
It is rough, smelly and slow, and sometimes full of insects: however it's worth it.


 * Yangon – Overnight trains run daily, departing about 17:00. from Bagan and arriving about 10:30 in Yangon the following day. This route does not go through Pyay but by Naypyidaw and through Taungoo. Fares are: upper class sleeper 16,500 kyat, upper class seat, 12,000 kyat, ordinary class seat, 4,500 kyat.
 * Mandalay – There are two direct train service running to Mandalay daily, one departing at 04:00 and arriving at 15:55 and one departing at 07:00 and arriving at 14:30. Apparently, only the night train, which might not run in low season, has 1st class. So check ahead. Otherwise, you will have limited room to store your stuff, as well as cramped, uncomfortable sitting conditions in an incredibly crowded train. Tickets are 1,800 kyat (1st class) and 1,300 (ordinary seat).
 * Pyay – The situation about the train to Pyay is unclear. It could be seasonal, but there are reports of people that have used this train in the near past. Nevertheless, there are three daily trains from Pyay to Yangon for 3,900 kyat upper class. So, you could take the bus to Pyay and continue from there.

For more details see Seat61.com, or ask directly at the train station where you also will have to buy your ticket in advance.

By boat
Mandalay An (almost daily) "express" ferry service runs up the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) from Bagan to Mandalay taking about 12 hr. Prices are US$35/40. It is more of a slow pleasure cruise than a rush express trip thanks to the priceless river views and fresh air, the glimpse of country life with locals waving at you, acknowledging your presence unobtrusively, and the overall soothing and relaxing atmosphere detached from misery and distant from poverty. MGRG Express Ferry leaves Nyaung U Jetty in Bagan at 06:00 and arrives in Mandalay at 18:00 for US$45. Bookings can be made through website, hotel, any travel agent or MTT (government tourist information).

A (very) slow local overnight ferry covers the same route less frequently and costs 18,000 kyat. Takes about 22 hr, but is a great opportunity to mix with the locals. Apparently only runs Monday and Thursday, so check ahead. Plastic chairs are available to rent on board. Otherwise, bring something to sit on and a good cover for the night. Tickets are available directly on the boat or through any travel agent.

Some have been disappointed by the views along the river due to the distance to the riverbank and the scenery in general.

Pyay Every Sunday at 17:30. there is also a local overnight ferry from Nyaung U Jetty to Pyay, arriving at 10:45.