Bagamoyo

Bagamoyo is a town in Tanzania with a colonial history and an active art scene.

Understand
The most recent history has it as a terminal point on the coast for Arab trading caravans. It was also used as a holding point for slaves brought from the interior and awaiting transportation to Zanzibar. It was the capital of German East Africa from 1885 until 1890 when the capital was moved to Dar es Salaam; Bagomoyo has been in decline since then. Architecture of European origin is rarely maintained and thus slowly falling apart, while still often beautiful to see. The Arabic influence on local architecture is also significant.

There is a lot of poverty and unemployment in Bagamoyo, so beware of muggings and robberies. While the town is usually safe during the day, avoid walking outside late at night. It is also advisable to avoid the slum expands towards the east. Be very aware of people monitoring you while standing somewhere or sitting in a restaurant. Don't expect any help of the police, they don't care about you and even discourage you from opening a case. However, if you loudly scream for help, locals will quickly gather and help you. The Swahili word for thief is mwizi; shouting it will get you a lot of attention, but might get the thief into serious trouble (and often harm, sometimes even death), since self-justice is widespread in Tanzania. So think twice before doing so.

Get in
Situated 70 km on the main northern trunk from Dar es Salaam on a good tar-seal road.


 * Dar es Salaam/Mwenge (1½-2 hr, TSh 2,500). Plan extra during rush hour travels due to increased traffic towards Dar es Salaam.
 * Tanga via a newly build asphalt road.
 * Msata (non-sealed road). The road frequently gets unpassable after heavy rains.
 * Miandizi (non-sealed road).
 * Miandizi (non-sealed road).

While not advisable, you can take a dhow boat to Zanzibar (4-8 hr, TSh 5,000). Many locals travel that way since they cannot afford to take the ferry, but the sea may be rough and boats have sunk before. There have also been safe 'tourist' dhows operating in the past.

Get around
The city is pretty walkable, for longer distances or with luggage you can choose from a motorcycle pikipiki, bajaji (from TSh 1,500) or a taxi (from TSh 3,000). There are also local tour operators who will take you around local sites, and to and from Bagamoyo.

There are also several bike rental options which are a great way to go around or to some of the more distant sites. Bike quality varies but usually isn't all too great. Make sure your brakes work and that you have lights if you plan to drive during evening or night.

See

 * Architecture. Walk around the town in daylight and view the entrance portals of the homes which often display intricate carvings with Arabic influence. View the aging German buildings.

Do

 * History. Stand at the portal outside the old German headquarters from which many of the European explorers entered the hinterland, amongst them Burton, Speke and H.M. Stanley. Imagine the excitement as the caravans of men strode off to a land hetherto unknown to Europe.
 * Respect. Visit the Catholic mission north of the town. Pay homage to Dr. David Livingston whose body last rested here on African soil before being transported to London to be buried at Westminster Abbey.

Buy
There are some great locally owned shops with clothing, paintings, carvings, and jewelry that are easiest to find if you just wander about the village. Sometimes (esp. on the beaches) there will be locals with carvings or jewelry that will approach you and you can bargain for their items.



Eat
There’s plenty of the ubiquitous local food around, you can get rice/Ugali/Pilaw with a bit of meat and sauce from Tsh 1,500. Chips are mainly available in the evenings.

For western-style eatery you’re limited to the resorts along the coast to the north of the town, the Millenium Hotel or the famous Poa Poa restaurant.

Budget

 * Pop Juice Resthouse (double TSh 9,000), noisy.
 * Jangombe Resthouse across the road from the Pop Juice Resthouse, similar.
 * Vatican Resthouse near the bus stop.
 * Kiromo Guest House (double TSh 15,000), very clean and quiet.
 * Kizota Guest House next to the Kiromo Guest House

Splurge
A number of resorts are situated on the coast to the north of the town. The best is the Millennium Hotel next to the Bagamoyo College of Arts which is on the ocean near the centre of town.

Cope
Bagamoyo has 3G coverage with varying quality, there’s also some internet cafés.



Go next
The resorts open up to the pristine coastline which is not to be missed. If you wish to swim in a pool, the resorts have swimming pools which are much safer.