Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya (Thai: อยุธยา), full name Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya (พระนครศรีอยุธยา), is an ancient capital and modern city in the Central Plains of Thailand, north of Bangkok. Its proximity to Bangkok makes this city of 51,000 people (2020) a popular day-trip destination for travellers from that city.

Understand
Founded around 1350, Ayutthaya became the second capital of Siam after Sukhothai. It was named after the city of Ayodhya in India, where legend has it Rama, one of the avatars of the Hindu god Vishnu, had his capital city, and whose rule is considered by Hindus to be the epitome of good governance and moral society. Throughout the centuries, an ideal location between China, India, and the Malay Archipelago made Ayutthaya the trading capital of Asia and even the world. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city in the world with a total of 1 million inhabitants. Many international merchants set sail for Ayutthaya and were amazed by its beauty and riches. Dutch and French maps of the city show grandeur with gold-laden palaces, large ceremonies, and a visiting flotilla of trading vessels from all over the world. This era ended when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and almost completely burnt the city to the ground.

Today, only a few remains give a glimpse of the impressive city it must have been. Its remains are characterized by the prang (reliquary towers) and large monasteries. Most of the remains are temples and palaces, as those were the only buildings made of stone at that time. The cultural value of Ayutthaya's ruins was officially recognized in 1991, when the historic city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its popularity among domestic tourists has exploded since 2018 due to the overwhelming popularity of the Thai historical drama Love Destiny, which was set in 17th-century Ayutthaya.

Orientation
Ayutthaya is an island at the confluence of three rivers: the Chao Phraya river, the Lopburi River, and the Pa Sak River. As the train station is on the east bank off the island, most visitors will need to cross the river by ferry boat. Navigating your way around the island is not particularly hard: U Thong Rd is a ring road that circles the island completely. Most temple ruins can be found at the northwest corner of the island, while accommodation and night life is clustered around the northeast. As non-Siamese were not allowed to live inside the city walls, the remains of foreign communities can be found off of the island.

By car
From Bangkok, one can get to Ayutthaya by various routes:


 * Take Hwy 1 (Phahon Yothin) via Pratu Nam Phra In and turn onto Hwy 32, then, turn left to Hwy 309 to Ayutthaya.
 * Take Hwy 304 (Chaeng Watthana) or Hwy 302 (Ngam Wong Wan), turn right onto Hwy 306 (Tiwanon), cross Nonthaburi or Nuanchawi Bridge to Pathum Thani, continue on Hwy 3111 (Pathum Thani–Sam Khok–Sena) and turn right at Sena onto Hwy 3263 to Ayutthaya.
 * Take Hwy 306 (Bangkok–Nonthaburi–Pathum Thani), at Pathum Thani Bridge intersection, turn onto Hwy 347 and 3309 via Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre, Bang Pa-In, to Ayutthaya.
 * Take Expy 9 (Si Rat Expressway) via Nonthaburi–Pathum Thani and down to Hwy 1 to Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre, turn left onto Hwy 3469 towards Bang Pa-In and turn right at Worachet intersection to Ayutthaya.

One can also contact a taxi company for pick up at either Bangkok airport. For example: Car Service, phone: +66 2 8195390, email: raksacharoen@hotmail.com. Advance booking possible. ~1,200 baht one-way.

By train
The cheapest and most scenic way of reaching Ayutthaya is by train. These run every hour or so from Bangkok via Don Muang to Ayutthaya, taking 80 min to 2 hours. Fares are 15 baht for third-class, ordinary train, no air-con, no reserved seat; 20 baht for third-class, "rapid" train, no air-con, no reserved seat; 65 baht for ordinary train, no air-con, reserved seat, 245 baht for "rapid train", air-con, reserved seat, and 345 baht for special express train, with air-con, a meal, reserved seat. In rush hour the trains are horribly overcrowded, but the rush is inward to Bangkok - daytrippers coming outward will dodge this. See Thai Railways website for timetable and fares.

Trains from Bangkok through Ayutthaya continue east to Ubon Ratchathani (7 a day, 7 hr), north to Lop Buri, Phitsanulok (for Sukhothai), Lamphun and Chiang Mai (5 a day, 10 hr), and northeast to Nong Kai and Tha Naleng for Vientiane in Laos (3 or 4 a day, 8 hr). There are sleepers on all these routes.

The is east bank of the river, not on the town island. There is a bridge with a walkway just to the south. Alternatively take a short ferry ride - walk across the main road and down the small street straight ahead. Ferries run every few minutes and cost 5 baht. A tuk-tuk from the station should cost no more than 100 baht for two people.

From Northern Bus Terminal
Buses now operate every 20 minutes or so from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal directly to Ayutthaya. First-class air-con buses charge 50 baht. This trip is scheduled to be around an hour and a half, but allow at least two hours for the trip since the buses stop rather frequently and there are often jams on the roads out of/into Bangkok. For more details, call Tel. +66 2 9362852-66 or see BKS or Ayutthaya Bus Terminal, Tel. +66 35 335304.

From Southern Bus Terminal
There are minibuses to Rangsit, in the north of Bangkok, costing 50 baht. In Rangsit they stop at a highway junction, where you can transfer directly onto another minibus going to Ayatthaya, costing 40 baht as of Dec 2015. Total travel time 1½-2 hours.

From Kanchanaburi
From Kanchanaburi, take a local bus leaves roughly every 2 hours from the main bus station to Suphanburi taking 2 hours for 60 baht (Feb 2024), then another local minibus to Ayutthaya for 100 baht (1.5 hours). A taxi from Kanchanaburi costs 2,000-2,500 baht (2 hours).

There is also a central bus station east of town serving northern destinations. It can be reached by songthaew. Ask around to find the appropriate stop.

Leaving
In Ayutthaya, the central BKS bus station is on the south side of Naresuan Rd next to the Chao Phrom Market. Songthaews to Bang Pa-In also leave from here. Some 1st-class buses to Bangkok, however, leave from the north side of the road some 500 m to the west, on the other side of the khlong (canal); the queue for air-con buses is easy to spot.

By mini-bus
Convenient mini-bus service (can get stuck in traffic, but makes no stops like regular buses) operates in front of the Northern Bus Terminal, on the other side of the road.

The cost is 70 baht (Feb 2020) and takes 1-1.5 hr. Mini-buses don't have much space for big bags, and you must wait until the bus is fully filled.

Mini-buses from Kanchanaburi can be arranged by guest houses or any tour operators for around 350 baht.

By boat
Cruise boats run up the river from Bangkok, often stopping at Ko Kret and Bang Pa-In along the way. You'll need to book in advance as there are no scheduled services, just trips for tourists. It's a fairly lengthy trip (at least one whole day) and some of the larger boats offer (pricey) overnight tours.

Travelling by boat to Ayutthaya is popular among foreigners as it reveals the beauty and lifestyle of the people on both sides of the Chao Phraya River, and also recalls life at the time of the Ayutthaya Kingdom when the Chao Phraya River served as the highway for trade with foreign countries.

By bicycle
Cycling around the ruins is the most enjoyable way to spend the day. The archaeological park is easily reachable and manageable on bike even if you aren't very fit. The paths are paved and the distances between temples are short. You can rent a bicycle for around 40 baht/day. The bicycles are not necessarily well maintained, so be sure that they work properly (wheels are firm and inflated, seats adjusted to your height and well attached, handlebars don't slip); good shops will give you a bike lock as well. There is a good bike shop directly opposite the train station.

Free area maps are available from hotels.

The park opens at 07:30. It is recommended that you begin your tour early, before the tour groups arrive from Bangkok. Take plenty of water with you.


 * Soi 2 (where the majority of tourist hotels and restaurants are found) have numerous bike rental facilities. They are all next to each other so it will be easy to shop around and find the one with the best bike for you.
 * Tour With Thai (TWT) (before Tony's Guest House [not far from mini-bus stop at Soi 2]) has bicycles big and small size and seat for small child for rent. If you are short of time, you can hire a motorbike here.

By tuk-tuk
Alternatively, you can get around town by tuk-tuk (motorized 3-wheeler). Ayutthaya's tuk-tuks are larger than the Bangkok variety and you can easily squeeze six people in on facing benches. Only "official" tuk-tuk drivers or tourist "helpers" can pick up passengers from the train station. You can verify their status by looking for their photos/name on a "Tourist Officials" board displayed at the south end of the platform. These people are required to charge/work for fixed rates, usually quoting 300 baht/hr, but this can usually be bargained down to a slightly lower price (e.g., 1,000 baht/4 hr).

You can also flag down tuk-tuks from the street and try to hire them. Most drivers carry with them a stack of postcards featuring the famous sites of the city to ease communications. They also are used to the standard temple-hopping circuit. If you have a map you can point out any of the destinations that you wish to see and they'll often quote a trip price and will wait for you at each stop. 200 baht/hr seems to be the starting point for tourist tuk-tuks picking up backpackers away from the station, although it may be possible to negotiate a lower price.

If entering the city by mini-bus, there is a possibility your driver will drop you off at a tuk-tuk who offers to take you around the wats from 2,000 baht. The driver may have a book filled with positive testimonials in a range of different languages from tourists who were his past passengers. Don't let these positive comments convince you otherwise, simply say "no, thanks" and move on to find another tuk-tuk driver with whom you can negotiate a fair rate.

From Ayutthaya, mini-buses can be taken from the railway station into the city. Hiring a mini- bus within Ayutthaya costs between 400-500 baht/day. For travelling between Ayutthaya and Bang Pa-in, mini-buses regularly leave Chao Prom Market, Chao Prom Rd starting from 06:00.

By motorbike driver
If you are alone, using a motorbike driver can cost less than a tuk-tuk (though with less luggage carrying capability). For example, to tour the further out ruins you will manage a lower cost per hour from a motorbike driver than tuk-tuk driver. They are easy to recognise - orange hi-vis jackets with a large one or two digit number on them. They can often be found hanging around on Pridi Banomyong Road (unlikely to be hanging round the station area).

By boat
Boat trips to enjoy the beautiful scenery and Thai lifestyle along the Chao Phraya River, the Pa Sak River and around the town island of Ayutthaya are available. A longtail boat can be chartered at the pier in front of Chanthara Kasem National Museum, Pom Phet Pier, and Wat Phananchoeng Pier. The fare depends on the route and duration. Rice barges are also available to groups. They offer a relaxed way to see Ayutthaya.

See
Ayutthaya is north of Bangkok and boasts numerous magnificent ruins. The ruins indicate that Ayutthaya was one of Southeast Asia's (and probably the world's) most prosperous cities in the 17th century. Ayutthaya Historical Park, a vast stretch of historical sites in the heart of Ayutthaya city, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since December 1991.

There were three palaces in Ayutthaya: Grand Palace, Chantharakasem Palace (the Front Palace), and Wang Lang (the Rear Palace). In addition, there were many other palaces and buildings for royal visits outside Ayutthaya, such as the palace at Bang Pa-In and Nakhon Luang Building at Nakhon Luang.

You can buy a single ticket covering entry into Ayutthaya Historical Park monuments for 220 baht. It's a Fine Arts Department-issued ticket and can be purchased from any of the monuments covered that charge for entry (i.e., you buy a single ticket for entry to that monument (typically 50 baht) or you can buy the multiple site ticket). However, it can get complex as not all sites charge anyway, e.g., Wat Plub Pla Chai is free uncontrolled entry) and not all sites are Fine Arts Department sites and they don't recognise the ticket e.g. Wat Thammikarat which is 20 baht.

If staying in the city start early when the parks open and see the main sites before the tour buses arrive from Bangkok. Or start later but avoid the sites the Bangkok day tours visit and return to those sites later when the tour buses have departed. There are plenty of sites worth visiting that the tour buses skip (as they have less time due to the drive from & to Bangkok).

It seems there is an ongoing scam, not against tourists, but against the government. Ladies selling tickets take the money from you and allow you to enter, but will not give you a ticket (and probably put the money in their own pockets). If you want your money to go for temple renovation and conservation instead of going into private pockets, insist on a ticket.

On the island
The temples with entry charges are usually in ruins, so there is no dress code, although visitors are still requested to refrain from blatant stupidity like clambering up the Buddha statues. Working temples tend to charge no fees and there are often no officials to check that a dress is appropriate (though it is advised to follow these customs to show respect for sacred places).















Off the island
Much of Ayutthaya's history revolves around trade with other nations, but these nations were not allowed to set up camp inside the city walls. Thus, surrounding Ayutthaya's waters are plenty of remains from the countries that once set sail here, such as the settlements of Japan, the Netherlands and Portugal, as well as the interesting Thai-Chinese temple of Wat Phanan Choeng.













Do

 * Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre Fair (งานประจำปีศูนย์ศิลปาชีพบางไทร) At the end of January. Held annually toward the end of January at Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre, the fair features displays and contests of the arts and crafts products, sales of local products and cultural performances.
 * Songkran Festival (งานเทศกาลสงกรานต์) April 13. Held annually on 13 April in front of Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit, Amphoe Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, it features a traditional procession, Thoet Thoeng drums procession, Song Nam Phra ceremony of the miniature of Phra Mongkhon Bophit image, and Nang Songkran beauty contest.
 * Wai Khru Bucha Tao Ceremony (พิธีไหว้ครูบูชาเตา) Around April – May. A wai khru ceremony held by blacksmiths and knife-makers of Aranyik knives at Ban Ton Pho, Ban Phai Nong and Ban Salai, Tambon Tha Chang, Nakhon Luang District to pay tribute to their masters and forge spirits. The ceremony is usually held on an early Thursday morning which may be the 7th, 9th, etc. day of the waxing moon of the 5th lunar month (around April – May) in order to express gratitude to their masters, sweep away possible accidents during their works as well as for their own auspiciousness and prosperity. After chanting for a congregation of angels and saluting the Triple Gem, the master of the ceremony will chant for a congregation of gods which include Siva, Vishnu, Brahma, Vishnukarma, Matuli, Vaya, Gangga, 8 ascetics, as well as Thai, Lao, Mon, and Chinese masters who have imparted them with the ironwork skills, for them to receive their offerings and bless all participants. All tools and equipment will be gilded and lustral water made to sprinkle on the tools and participants.
 * Bang Sai Loi Krathong and Traditional Long Boat Races (งานลอยกระทงตามประทีปและแข่งเรือยาวประเพณีศูนย์ศิลปาชีพบางไทร) November. It is an annual festival held toward the end of November at the Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre, Amphoe Bang Sai. Activities include Nang Nopphamat beauty contest, contests of processions, Krathongs, and hanging lanterns, folk entertainment, traditional and international long boat races, and sales of the Centre’s products.
 * Ayutthaya World Heritage Fair (งานแสดงแสงเสียงอยุธยามรดกโลก) December. To commemorate the occasion of the Ayutthaya Historical Park being declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO on 13 December 1991, a celebration is held annually for 1 week during the same period of the year. The Fair features local ways of life, handicrafts, Thai traditions and culture as well as the light and sound presentation on the history of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya.
 * Ayutthaya Maha Mongkhon (อยุธยามหามงคล – ไหว้พระเก้าวัด) Buddhist Lent Festival. Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Provincial Administration in collaboration with the Tourism Business Association and TAT Central Region Office: Region 6, organise the Ayutthaya Maha Mongkhon programme for participants to visit nine temples in the province during the Buddhist Lent Festival.
 * Ayutthaya World Heritage Fair (งานแสดงแสงเสียงอยุธยามรดกโลก) December. To commemorate the occasion of the Ayutthaya Historical Park being declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO on 13 December 1991, a celebration is held annually for 1 week during the same period of the year. The Fair features local ways of life, handicrafts, Thai traditions and culture as well as the light and sound presentation on the history of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya.
 * Ayutthaya Maha Mongkhon (อยุธยามหามงคล – ไหว้พระเก้าวัด) Buddhist Lent Festival. Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Provincial Administration in collaboration with the Tourism Business Association and TAT Central Region Office: Region 6, organise the Ayutthaya Maha Mongkhon programme for participants to visit nine temples in the province during the Buddhist Lent Festival.

Eat
Ayutthaya is famous for its river prawns, but also plenty of other delicious dishes.



Drink
The main traveller-oriented area is Soi Torgorsor, between Pamaphrao Rd and Naresuan Rd, opposite the west end of Chao Phrom Market. It has a number of bars staying open until late, some with projection screens for sports.



Sleep
Most tourists visit Ayutthaya on a day trip from Bangkok, but there are numerous options available if you wish to spend the night here.

There are a large number of traveller-oriented guest houses on and around Soi 2 between Naresuan Rd and Pamaphrao Rd, opposite the western end of the Chao Phrom Market. Accommodation in the upper price brackets is limited though there are some options by the riverside.

Respect
Wear long trousers/skirts to temples, and no sleeveless T-shirts or revealing blouses. Treat Buddha images with utmost respect, just as you would in the rest of Thailand.

Stay safe
Ayutthaya has a lot of hungry stray dogs in poor condition. They can particularly be a problem in the off-season when there aren't so many people in the streets. While largely docile and harmless, to avoid being chased around by a pack of them it is best not to walk around alone, particularly at night. For those accustomed to travel in developing areas, there should be no problem.

When cycling around the city beware of motorcyclists. Do not put any valuable items in your handlebar basket, as they may be snatched at traffic lights. Also, female travellers have been groped by passing-by motorcyclists, so beware if someone slows down next to you.

Some small shops sell bottles of water that are not completely full. Check before you buy and if not full assess risk and decide: there will likely be an alternative shop nearby.

There are many hospitals, clinics and pharmacies in Ayutthaya. Several major ones are:
 * Ayutthaya Hospital
 * Navanakorn Hospital
 * Sena Hospital
 * Ratchathani Hospital
 * Supamitr Sena Hospital
 * Peravech Hospital
 * Wangnoi Hospital
 * Rojanavech Hospital

Go next

 * Bang Pa-In — famous for its eccentric palace and only to the south
 * Kanchanaburi — the famous bridge over the River Kwai and numerous World War II museums
 * Khao Yai National Park — first and 3rd largest national park of the country
 * Lopburi — the next destination if you take the train north, with monkeys and ancient ruins
 * Nakhon Ratchasima — gateway to the Isaan region
 * Sukhothai — another former capital of Siam with impressive ancient ruins