Ayr (Scotland)

Ayr is a town in Ayrshire on the coast of South West Scotland, with a population of 46,260 in 2020. Its chief attraction for visitors is the nearby village of Alloway, birthplace of Robert Burns. Ayr is also near Culzean Castle and the golf course at Turnberry. It was the county town until Ayrshire was divided into east, north and south council areas. Ayr now only hosts the South Ayrshire local government.

Understand
Ayrshire is mostly lowland and fertile, and Ayr grew up as the market town for the nearby farm villages, but it was also industrial from the 17th century with local deposits of coal. It had a defensible river crossing and harbour, one of several ports that flourished before the Clyde was made navigable up to Glasgow. A major industry was smuggling: there were many quiet beaches where goods "for export" could be run ashore on moonless nights. And there was also illicit trade with England and its colonies, before the 1707 Union ended the embargo against Scotland.

One of those farm villages three miles south was Alloway, now a suburb of Ayr, and on 25 Jan 1759 it was the birthplace of Robert Burns. His family lived in the same cramped farm cottage until he was seven, then moved to a series of other farms near Tarbolton and Mauchline, always on the verge of poverty. Robert began writing poetry, chasing the women and drinking, not necessarily in that order; he was on the verge of emigrating to the West Indies when his first poetry collection was published in 1786. He was prolific and famous even within his short lifetime, and is now revered as Scotland’s national poet.

You’re bound to know Auld Lang Syne, but if you don’t know Burns' other works, essential reading is Tam O’Shanter (and you’ll need a Lallans glossary to translate the dialect.) Tam is a poor useless sort of farmer, and one dark wet night he's riding home from Ayr market, drunk as usual, when he sees strange lights in the derelict old church of Alloway. Creeping closer, he beholds witches dancing in a satanic party, and there’s one very fit young witch clad only in a skimpy shirt - a "cutty sark". Tam’s ribald shout to her is the biggest mistake of his prattish life, and it may well be his last.

Ayr's main sight is thus the Burns Heritage Park at Alloway comprising a museum in the cottage where he was born, the Auld Kirk (that spooky derelict old church), the Burns Monument and Gardens, and the ancient bridge Brig o’Doon where Tam fled from the witches. You'll know you're there when you see lots of coaches in the parking lot: summer in Alloway can be very congested. There isn't a physical tourist office but What's On Ayrshire post local information

Get in
Ayr is on the main road and rail route between Glasgow and Stranraer. With your own car from Glasgow follow A77. From England take M6 then A75 to Dumfries, A76 to Cumnock, then A71 into Ayr.

By plane
Glasgow Airport, 6 miles west of central Glasgow on M8, has the best connections. It has flights from many UK and European cities, including the Hebridean islands. There are regular direct flights from Canada but other long-haul destinations usually involve changing planes in London or Amsterdam. There is a pre-bookable shuttle bus to GLA from Ayr, otherwise travel via central Glasgow.

is only 4 miles from Ayr, but only has Ryanair flights to Med holiday destinations such as Barcelona and Tenerife, nothing within the UK. The Ayr-Glasgow trains call here, as does the X77 bus, see below. Or take a taxi, or you could even walk.

By train
Trains run from Glasgow Central four times an hour, but it feels like only two as slow trains departs 5 min after the faster trains. The latter take an hour to Ayr via Paisley Gilmour Street, Glengarnock (for Kilbirnie), Kilwinning, Irvine, Troon, Prestwick Airport and town, and Newton-on-Ayr. Change at Kilwinning for Ardrossan, West Kilbride and Largs. The last train leaves Glasgow around 11:30PM.

Two or three trains a day run from Kilmarnock via Troon, and continue from Ayr to Girvan.

Five trains a day run from Stranraer, connecting with the ferries at Cairnryan, and taking 90 min via Girvan.

From London, Birmingham and Manchester it's usually quickest to take a fast train via Carlisle to Glasgow Central then change. Another route is to change at Carlisle for the train towards Glasgow via Dumfries - get off at Auchinleck south of Kilmarnock and take Bus 42 to Ayr, described below.

is central by the main square. There is a staffed ticket office and machines, a cafe, waiting room and toilets. There is level access to Platforms 1, 2 and 3. Platform 4 (towards Stranraer) is reached by steps over the footbridge, or step-free from the public road other side of the tracks. Plusbus is available at this station.

Newton-on-Ayr is a platform halt one mile north. You might use it for the north edge of town, or even the south edge of Prestwick town.

By bus
Stagecoach West Scotland is the main operator. Bus X77 runs from Glasgow Buchanan station to Ayr every 30 min, taking 65 min via Prestwick, with the last departing at 23:00. Bus 4 also runs every 30 min but takes two hours via Kilmarnock and Prestwick, so only use it for local journeys.

Citylink / Ulsterbus 923 runs three times a day from Belfast via the Stena ferry to Cairnryan then Glasgow. It calls at Ayr for pre-booked passengers only.

Bus 14 runs every 45 min from Irvine via Troon and Prestwick. From Ardrossan change at Irvine.

Bus 42 runs hourly from Muirkirk via Cumnock, Auchinleck (for trains to Carlisle and Dumfries), Drongan and Coylton to Ayr.

Buses 58 and 60 run every 30 min from Girvan via Maybole and Alloway to Ayr. The 358 runs twice from Stranraer via Cairnryan ferry terminal and Girvan.

is central, half a mile northwest of the railway station.

By boat
Ayr is not a ferry port, but if your sailing times allow, it’s a pleasanter place to stop over than Ardrossan (for Arran) or Stranraer (for Belfast).

The nearest marina for small leisure craft is Troon.

Get around
Bus 57 runs hourly to Alloway, taking 10 min. Bus 60 towards Girvan runs hourly past the driveway to Culzean Castle; the 58 takes a different route.

Taxi operators include Ayr Citadel (+44 1292 402204), Ayr Premier Taxis (+44 1292 404040), A to B (+44 1292 404707) and Ayr Cabs (+44 1292 787878).

The area is lowland and well-suited to cycling.

See

 * is the 15th-century bell tower of the original parish church and choir school, founded in the 12th century but demolished by Cromwell in 1654 to make way for a fortress. Only the tower was spared. A block north by the river bank is the main surviving stretch of fortress walls.
 * Auld Brig across the river was originally a 13th century wooden structure, rebuilt with stone in the 16th. It's a narrow footbridge, mocked in Burns' poem Brigs o' Ayr as too narrow for a pair of wheelbarrows to pass. The bridge retorts that it will still be standing when the New Brig of 1788 has vanished, and so it proved — the present New Bridge is Victorian.
 * Burns Monument, Brig o'Doon and Alloway Old Kirk by the cottage are free to view.
 * Greenan Castle is the remains of a 16th century tower house teetering on the cliffs west of Belle Isle.
 * Burns Monument, Brig o'Doon and Alloway Old Kirk by the cottage are free to view.
 * Greenan Castle is the remains of a 16th century tower house teetering on the cliffs west of Belle Isle.
 * Greenan Castle is the remains of a 16th century tower house teetering on the cliffs west of Belle Isle.
 * Greenan Castle is the remains of a 16th century tower house teetering on the cliffs west of Belle Isle.
 * Baird Institute in Cumnock village centre is a gallery and museum open Th 12:30-4PM, 5-7:30PM, F Sa 10:30-noon, 1-3:30PM.
 * Baltersan Castle half a mile northwest of Crossraguel Abbey is the ruin of a tower house built in 1584 and abandoned circa 1750. In 2020 it was for sale.
 * is a scenic stump on a rocky headland. It was built 15th and 16th centuries, and abandoned in the 17th. This was where the Earl of Cassilis tortured the landowner of Crossraguel, by roasting and other culinary techniques. And it worked, he gained the land and never suffered retribution; the cooked man was not eaten but could never walk again. See also the small harbour at the base of the cliffs.
 * on the A719 south of Ayr (between Dunure and Croy Brae) is an optical illusion: a car going "uphill" can glide in neutral, since it's actually going downhill. However these days most motorists won't notice the effect.
 * was built on an islet in the loch in the 13th century. It was besieged and re-captured a few times and in the 16th century King James V had it demolished to prevent use by rebels. The loch water level was raised in the 1930s for a hydro-electric scheme and reservoir, so the castle ruin was moved stone by stone from the islet to the roadside, the Abu Simbel of Ayrshire.
 * Baltersan Castle half a mile northwest of Crossraguel Abbey is the ruin of a tower house built in 1584 and abandoned circa 1750. In 2020 it was for sale.
 * is a scenic stump on a rocky headland. It was built 15th and 16th centuries, and abandoned in the 17th. This was where the Earl of Cassilis tortured the landowner of Crossraguel, by roasting and other culinary techniques. And it worked, he gained the land and never suffered retribution; the cooked man was not eaten but could never walk again. See also the small harbour at the base of the cliffs.
 * on the A719 south of Ayr (between Dunure and Croy Brae) is an optical illusion: a car going "uphill" can glide in neutral, since it's actually going downhill. However these days most motorists won't notice the effect.
 * was built on an islet in the loch in the 13th century. It was besieged and re-captured a few times and in the 16th century King James V had it demolished to prevent use by rebels. The loch water level was raised in the 1930s for a hydro-electric scheme and reservoir, so the castle ruin was moved stone by stone from the islet to the roadside, the Abu Simbel of Ayrshire.
 * was built on an islet in the loch in the 13th century. It was besieged and re-captured a few times and in the 16th century King James V had it demolished to prevent use by rebels. The loch water level was raised in the 1930s for a hydro-electric scheme and reservoir, so the castle ruin was moved stone by stone from the islet to the roadside, the Abu Simbel of Ayrshire.

Golf
is the town course south side on Doonfoot Rd. White tees 6446 yards par 71, with the smaller Seafield at 5429 yards par 67.
 * Troon, 7 mi north has the
 * In Turnberry, 15 mi miles south of Ayr and 6 mi north of Girvan, is located on the Ayrshire coast.

Recreational and Theatre




Culture, History and Outdoors

 * Scottish Dark Sky Observatory north of Loch Doon suffered a fire in 2021. Rebuilding is under way but the re-opening date is not yet known.
 * Scottish Dark Sky Observatory north of Loch Doon suffered a fire in 2021. Rebuilding is under way but the re-opening date is not yet known.

Events

 * STREETrave is a beach music festival held around the Pavilion on the Promenade, with the next on 5 May 2024.
 * Boswell Book Festival specialises in biography and memoir. The next is at Dumfries House on 10-12 May 2024.
 * Boswell Book Festival specialises in biography and memoir. The next is at Dumfries House on 10-12 May 2024.

Eat

 * Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face, Great chieftain o' the puddin-race!
 * - Burns' toast to the haggis


 * Town centre west side of the railway station has The Growler (below), Stravaig (below), Tempura Ayr, Drunken Coo, Mr Basrai's, Tudor Kitchen, Vito's and Meridian.
 * Nanny Mary's Diner at 42 Smith St by the station serves burgers, ice-cream and milk shakes. It's open M W Th 9AM-10PM, Tu 9AM-2PM, F Sa 9AM-11PM, Su 10AM-10PM.
 * New Bridge St into Sandgate and Fort St has New City Chinese, The Edison, Tree House, Cecchini's, Jinja and Rupee Room.
 * @Home Thai at 95 New Road is open daily noon-10PM.
 * Ayr India is still at its beach location at the foot of Seafield Rd, but now also has a more central outlet on Alloway Place, open daily noon-11PM.
 * Splurge at Enterkine House Hotel ten miles east, see Sleep.
 * New Bridge St into Sandgate and Fort St has New City Chinese, The Edison, Tree House, Cecchini's, Jinja and Rupee Room.
 * @Home Thai at 95 New Road is open daily noon-10PM.
 * Ayr India is still at its beach location at the foot of Seafield Rd, but now also has a more central outlet on Alloway Place, open daily noon-11PM.
 * Splurge at Enterkine House Hotel ten miles east, see Sleep.

Drink

 * Inspiring bold John Barleycorn! What dangers thou canst make us scorn!
 * Wi' tippenny, we fear nae evil; Wi' usquabae, we'll face the devil!
 * - Tam o'Shanter is well wasted as he leaves the pub to ride home


 * Town centre has Tam O’Shanter (below), Rabbie's, Droothy Neebors, The Twa Dugs, Market Inn, Crumbs & Cocktails, Smith's, West Kirk (below), Billy Bridges, Central Bar, Smugglers and The Fort.
 * The Nightclub is Vinyl.
 * Brewery: Ayr Brewing Company produce a range of ales within Glenpark Hotel on Racecourse Rd, no tours.
 * Distillery: see Kilmarnock for Lochlea whisky distillery.
 * Brewery: Ayr Brewing Company produce a range of ales within Glenpark Hotel on Racecourse Rd, no tours.
 * Distillery: see Kilmarnock for Lochlea whisky distillery.

Connect
As of July 2022, Ayr and its approach roads have 4G with O2 and Vodafone, and 5G with EE and Three.

Go next

 * Girvan has Turnberry golf course and hotel, and boat trips to Ailsa Craig.
 * If you’re not sated with Burns, Dumfries is where he spent his last years.
 * Ferries sail to Arran from Ardrossan, to  Great Cumbrae from Largs, and to  Bute from Wemyss Bay.
 * South and east of Glasgow is industrial. The stand-out is New Lanark Industrial Village, a bold 18th-century social venture.
 * Belfast is a fascinating city: take the direct bus from Ayr.