Aswan



Aswan (Arabic: أسوان‎ àswân) is the southernmost city of Egypt, some 870 km south of Cairo, just below the Aswan Dam and Lake Nasser, with a population of 275,000. Aswan is far more relaxed and smaller than Cairo and Luxor.

Understand
In the Neolithic era the tribes along the Nile began to combine, so that around 3500 BC there was a Kingdom of Upper Egypt from Aswan almost down to what is now Cairo, and a Kingdom of Lower Egypt which was the Delta. In 3100 BC King Narmer of Upper Egypt conquered the Delta and unified the kingdoms. Upstream of Aswan was inhabited but less important because the Nile was not navigable above the "First Cataract," first of a series of six rapids and shallows across the Nubian Plateau.

Egypt has always needed to harvest as much water as possible from the river, while controlling floods. A dam was therefore built across the First Cataract in 1902. In modern times still more water was needed, so the Aswan High Dam was built further upstream, completed in 1971 and penning Lake Nasser behind it, all the way into Sudan. Whole communities had to be moved, along with priceless antiquities, the most famous example being at Abu Simbel. Construction had political repercussions: the need to finance the dam caused Nasser to court the Soviet Union and China when western support wasn't forthcoming, and in 1956 he nationalised the Suez Canal and closed it (along with the Gulf of Aqaba) to Israeli shipping. This sparked the Suez conflict.

Aswan is today a well-developed tourist city, but hasn't grown to the extent of Luxor, so it feels more relaxed. The climate is hot desert: almost no rain falls here, and all the waters of the lake and Nile have come from over 1000 miles south. It's very hot in summer but pleasantly warm in winter.

By train


Aswan is the southern terminus of the Egyptian railway network. The line follows the Nile north to Luxor (3-4 hr), Cairo (another 10 hr) and Alexandria (another 2 hr). Train is an excellent way to travel between Aswan and Luxor as it is too short to fly, and buses are bumpy and not altogether safe; fares are LE50-100 in AC1, half that in AC2. The train ride from Cairo is obviously much slower than a flight, but comfortable and safe, and amazingly inexpensive.

For practical details see Egypt by train. From Cairo there are four types of train:


 * Daytime expresses have 1st and 2nd class air-conditioned coaches called AC1 and AC2 with comfortable aircraft-style seats. They're a relaxing way to sit back and view the lush landscape of the Nile valley. Fares vary with the train, with a single ticket Cairo-Aswan costing LE140 to LE250 in AC1 (Feb 2018), and about 30-40% less in AC2. Soft drinks and snacks are served, and there may be a dining car, but best buy food and drinks beforehand.
 * Overnight expresses, departing 9PM to 11PM, are identical to the daytime trains and have the same fares; they're not sleepers.
 * Deluxe sleepers are run by a private company, Watania. These have modern air-conditioned sleeping-cars, with a choice of 1- and 2-berth cabins and a club/lounge car. An evening meal and breakfast are included in the fare. Prices one way between Cairo and Aswan are US$110 for a single berth, or US$80 sharing a 2-berth cabin (Feb 2018). One sleeper runs nightly year-round, southbound from Cairo Ramses around 8PM, and northbound from Aswan around 7PM. Extra sleepers run at busy times but these trains may commence from Giza rather than from Cairo Ramses station.
 * Local trains - Non-a/c trains lumber between Cairo, Luxor and Aswan, daytime and overnight, stopping at most stations. These are not much slower, but they are incredibly cheap.

The expresses are run by Egyptian National Railways (ENR) - check timetables and prices, and make bookings, with them direct (but be sure to do so 24 hr in advance or the system might not accept!). ENR also runs the ordinary trains but these are not bookable and not shown on timetables, buy your ticket at the station. The deluxe sleepers should be booked online with Watania.

Express tickets can also be bought at the station but in 2017/18, Cairo Ramses station has often refused to sell daytime tickets to tourists, claiming they're only allowed on the overnight train. This is bunkum and there are no similar problems buying such tickets at Giza, or northbound Aswan to Cairo - or even in simply boarding the daytime train without a ticket.

By bus
From Hurghada buses cost LE100-150 for 8-12 hr ride (513 km), buses leave Aswan at 3:30PM and 5:30PM, route operated by Upper Egypt Bus Co. Tickets are sold on the bus, but be sure to ask the price at the ticket office, because the ticket seller on the bus will often raise the price LE5 or so and pocket the excess if you are a foreigner.

By boat
Cruise ships ply between Aswan and Luxor most days. These are luxury cruise tours taking 5 or more days for a splurgy price, they're not ferries. Various operators, shop around online for dates and prices.

A passenger ferry operated by Nile River Valley Transport Corporation sails across Lake Nasser to Wadi Halfa in Sudan once a week. Southbound it leaves Aswan noon on Sundays to arrive midday Monday; northbound it leaves Wadi Halfa 5PM Mondays to reach Aswan midday Tuesday. First class tickets, which get you a berth in a shared cabin, cost from LE385; 2nd class gets you a seat on the deck for LE230. You'll need to have your Sudan visa sorted in advance. From Wadi Halfa, buses and a very occasional train run south to Khartoum.

Get around
Aswan is compact enough to negotiate primarily on foot.

For the sights on the river islands or on the West Bank, you must cross the river by motor boat or felluca. Be sure to pay attention to the price as operators try to overcharge tourists. The public ferry to Elephantine Island is LE5 for foreigners (LE1 for Egyptians, Nov 2018). The ferry to the West Bank is also LE5 for foreigners and LE1 for locals. Felluca trips will cost LE50-80 depending on your haggling (Nov 2018).

For Philae, the High Dam, and the unfinished obelisks, you can take a taxi, tuk-tuk or a horse-drawn carriage. It is also possible to get close to the Philae docks with a public pick-up truck, going in the direction of the university. From the terminus it is only 1.2 km by foot, but there are also tuk-tuks willing to bring you further. You might need some knowledge of Arabic to figure this all out.

West Bank

 * Tombs of Mekhu & Sabni – Reliefs show invasion of Nubia
 * Tomb of Sarenput II – One of the most beautiful and preserved tombs
 * Tomb of Sarenput I (No. 36) – Six pillars decorated with reliefs
 * Tomb of Harkhuf – Hieroglyphics
 * Tomb of Hekaib – Reliefs show fighting and hunting scenes
 * Tomb of Hekaib – Reliefs show fighting and hunting scenes



New Kalabsha
New Kalabsha is a promontory housing several important temples, structures, and other remains that have been relocated there from the site of Old Kalabsha and other sites in Lower Nubia, to avoid the rising waters of Lake Nasser caused by the construction of the Aswan High Dam.

Do

 * Book a cruise ship for 2-3 nights between Luxor and Aswan by tracking down one or several of them along the pier before noon. Most cruise ships have a reception at their entrance and you can just walk in. Do not mind the guards or barriers, they are just there for protection. According to some travellers, prices can start at US$40 per night. Either way, it will be cheaper than when going through an agent or booking online.
 * Book a cruise ship for 2-3 nights between Luxor and Aswan by tracking down one or several of them along the pier before noon. Most cruise ships have a reception at their entrance and you can just walk in. Do not mind the guards or barriers, they are just there for protection. According to some travellers, prices can start at US$40 per night. Either way, it will be cheaper than when going through an agent or booking online.
 * Book a cruise ship for 2-3 nights between Luxor and Aswan by tracking down one or several of them along the pier before noon. Most cruise ships have a reception at their entrance and you can just walk in. Do not mind the guards or barriers, they are just there for protection. According to some travellers, prices can start at US$40 per night. Either way, it will be cheaper than when going through an agent or booking online.
 * Book a cruise ship for 2-3 nights between Luxor and Aswan by tracking down one or several of them along the pier before noon. Most cruise ships have a reception at their entrance and you can just walk in. Do not mind the guards or barriers, they are just there for protection. According to some travellers, prices can start at US$40 per night. Either way, it will be cheaper than when going through an agent or booking online.

Buy
The souqs (markets) in Aswan are refreshingly exotic without the same level of high-pressure selling found in some tourist towns like Luxor. You will generally find that Nubian handicrafts are of higher quality and better value in Aswan. All other goods will be more expensive than in Cairo due to shipping costs to Aswan and the lower tourist demand.



Drink
Aswan is much less strict on drinking alcohol than Cairo or Luxor, and many of the restaurants sell Stella (Egyptian brand not the Belgian brand) and Saqqara, both of which are lagers and comparable to European beers.

Locals take pride in their fresh sugar cane juice.

Budget

 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.
 * Baba Dool Guesthouse (Elephantine Island). Beautiful Nubian guesthouse with plenty of character, and a great view over the Nile and Kitchener's Island. Rooms are clean, facilities are good and breakfast is plentiful.

Stay safe
Aswan is generally a very safe city. However, do watch out for quite blatant attempts at pickpocketing in the souq. These thieves will approach you carrying scarves, shirts or even papyrus in one hand to sell to you, while attempting to go into your pockets with the other hand. The locals know this goes on, but do not count on them to intervene. Also, women should avoid travelling alone if they are not comfortable with leering men, although they are all bluster. Most horse carriage drivers will not commit on the price when you arrive at your destination and you are expected to give more.

Cope
There is so much to do around the Aswan area that time can be an issue. The local people are generally very cooperative, and for a price, doors might remain opened regardless of the hour.

Go next

 * Abu Simbel – most people use Aswan as a base to see this fantastic temple. Many hotels and tour agencies can offer a mini-bus service, often departing at 4AM and going as part of a larger convoy, often with police together. You might take part in that convoy with your own vehicle. Depending on your negotiation skills the hotel-organised mini-bus costs between LE150–LE350 (also try other hotels apart from the one you are staying in). There is also a public bus leaving from the bus station north of town, scheduled to depart at 8AM. If all goes well this should get you in Abu Simbel at 11:30AM, return is at 1PM (although you might be able to delay this a little with a nice 'baksheesh' - use at your own discretion) (May 2019).
 * Kom Ombo – Not far north from Aswan, with the double temple of Ptolemaic. Taxi trips or organized tours are LE150, or you take a (local) train and taxi/tuk-tuk from the railway station (LE10).
 * Cruises to Luxor – The 2-night cruise should cost from US$75 per night, including meals, depending on the boat.
 * Felucca trips to Luxor – see the Felucca guide for a complete itinerary and for information.