Apia

Apia is the capital of Samoa. It is on the northern coast of the island of Upolu and has a population of 42,000 (2021). As with most Pacific Island capitals, Apia is a little shabby and run down. Reasonably small in size and with few obvious attractions, Apia is very useful as a stop-off point for first-time visitors to get their bearings, plan travel around the island of Upolu, organise accommodation on the beach, and recover from jet lag. Most of Samoa's highlights are outside the town, although many are within a very short drive.

Understand
Apia was founded in the 1850s, and has been the capital of Samoa since 1959.

The harbour was the site of an infamous naval standoff in 1889 when seven ships from Germany, the US, and Britain refused to leave the harbour as a typhoon was approaching, for fear of losing face. All the ships were sunk, except for one British cruiser. Nearly 200 American and German lives were lost. Eventually, New Zealand occupied the area after World War I. During the struggle for independence organised by the Mau movement, a peaceful gathering in the town resulted in the killing of the paramount chief Tupua Tamasese Lealofi III and ten others by New Zealand police on 28 December 1929. The country attained independence in 1962.

Climate
Located 13 degrees south of the Equator, Apia's climate is tropical with constant temperatures around the year. The amount of precipitation varies throughout the year; from December to March over 300 mm of rain per month can be expected while it's a bit dryer during the southern hemisphere winter.

Tourist information




By boat
Occasional cargo ships dock at Apia port on their way around the world. A twice-monthly ferry sails to Tokelau. Yachties can berth in Apia Harbour, where there are good facilities.

By car
The aptly named Cross Island Road connects the southern villages on the island of Upolu with Apia.

Get around
Much of Apia is within walking distance, although this could be an uncomfortable experience on a hot and humid Samoan Day. Another thing to consider is the number of aggressive stray dogs towards dusk and in the evening. A walk from the suburbs into the centre is best avoided at night for this reason.

Taxis are cheap, safe and easy to hail down but single women are advised to sit in the back seat, particularly if wearing a short skirt. Ridesharing services including Uber and Lyft have become common means of transport in Apia too.

Buses fan out to the whole of Upolu from Apia. If you are staying at a hotel outside the centre of the town it may be possible to get there by bus. Ask at your hotel.

Do

 * A walk along the sea wall is enjoyable. But only on a milder day (i.e. ). Many locals walk along the sea wall in the early mornings and late afternoon.
 * Fishing. Samoa is a popular fishing destination and most of the charter companies operate out of Apia. The Samoan International Game Fishing Association is based near the port and can provide information about boat companies. Every year it runs an International tournament, attracting anglers from all over the world. Fish in the local waters include blue and black marlin, sailfish, yellowfin, and the giant trevally. Charter companies include:
 * Fishing. Samoa is a popular fishing destination and most of the charter companies operate out of Apia. The Samoan International Game Fishing Association is based near the port and can provide information about boat companies. Every year it runs an International tournament, attracting anglers from all over the world. Fish in the local waters include blue and black marlin, sailfish, yellowfin, and the giant trevally. Charter companies include:


 * Troppo Fishing Adventures


 * Golf. Two courses are close to Apia: the Royal Samoan Country Club near Fagalii Airport and the Faleata Golf Club, which is close to the sports complex constructed for the South Pacific Games.

Buy
Markets in Apia host many interesting stalls and locally made souvenirs. Many of the items on sale, such as cloth in Samoan patterns, are imported from China.



Eat


There are numerous restaurants that cater for locals on a budget and will sell the sort of food that is eaten in the average household. Beer and soft drinks are available at most places. The menu is likely to include chop suey, chicken curry, and mutton flaps. Umu or earth oven cooked local food include roast pig, and the great delicacy, palusami. Palusami is made of an onion and coconut cream filling with a meat (usually corned beef, chicken or fish), all wrapped up in new taro leaves and baked. This is a "must try" and goes well with taro.

Restaurants tend to close early by Western standards. With a few exceptions, the restaurants in the big hotels are the only ones open on Sunday. There are no street numbers in Apia so you will have to ask for directions if you do not take a taxi. The town is divided into lots of smaller villages and the restaurant location is given by village, road (e.g. Beach Road, which is a couple of miles long), or the building, which is not of much use to foreigners.

Budget

 * At the Flea Market and at Marketi Fou there are lots of food stalls selling local food, mostly fried stuff. "The Samoan pancakes" (small fried banana dough balls) are delicious and cost 10 sene each.
 * At the Flea Market and at Marketi Fou there are lots of food stalls selling local food, mostly fried stuff. "The Samoan pancakes" (small fried banana dough balls) are delicious and cost 10 sene each.
 * At the Flea Market and at Marketi Fou there are lots of food stalls selling local food, mostly fried stuff. "The Samoan pancakes" (small fried banana dough balls) are delicious and cost 10 sene each.
 * At the Flea Market and at Marketi Fou there are lots of food stalls selling local food, mostly fried stuff. "The Samoan pancakes" (small fried banana dough balls) are delicious and cost 10 sene each.
 * At the Flea Market and at Marketi Fou there are lots of food stalls selling local food, mostly fried stuff. "The Samoan pancakes" (small fried banana dough balls) are delicious and cost 10 sene each.
 * At the Flea Market and at Marketi Fou there are lots of food stalls selling local food, mostly fried stuff. "The Samoan pancakes" (small fried banana dough balls) are delicious and cost 10 sene each.

Splurge

 * If you are wandering around town and absolutely stuck for a place to eat, the most westerly and remote McDonald's in the world can be found in central Apia.
 * If you are wandering around town and absolutely stuck for a place to eat, the most westerly and remote McDonald's in the world can be found in central Apia.
 * If you are wandering around town and absolutely stuck for a place to eat, the most westerly and remote McDonald's in the world can be found in central Apia.
 * If you are wandering around town and absolutely stuck for a place to eat, the most westerly and remote McDonald's in the world can be found in central Apia.
 * If you are wandering around town and absolutely stuck for a place to eat, the most westerly and remote McDonald's in the world can be found in central Apia.

Drink
Alcohol can be bought at almost all restaurants. Soft drinks and bottled water are generally available and safe. While the purity of the tap water is questionable, all factory-bought ice is safe. It is only later handling that can contaminate it.
 * Kava at the market. (see Samoa)
 * There is a mall (meaning a pedestrian street) in the centre of town with coffee shops, that are great place to sit and watch people passing by.



Bars
At the end of 2010 the Apia bar scene had been thrown into some confusion by the puritanical tendencies of the Prime Minister, who was trying to get them closed by 22:00. Given the confusion opening hours are not specified here. You should check when you arrive. All bars are closed on Sundays.

There is a string of bars in the centre of town between the fire station and the Australian High Commission. This is a good area to visit in the late afternoon and early evening but is best left before closing time when things can get a bit troublesome.





LGBT
There is no "gay scene" nor gay community. In common with much of Polynesia, there is widespread acceptance of homosexuality in Samoa. This acceptance of fa'afafine (the way of a woman) owes much to the tradition of raising some boys as girls. In families with all male children, parents would often choose one or more of the boys to help the mother. Because they would perform the work of women, they were raised as if they were girls. Although their sex was widely known, they would usually be dressed as girls. Many however, would eventually get married to women. Modern fa'afafine are more likely to choose to live as women, and more likely to be homosexual. Boys who appear effeminate may be recognised as fa'afafine by their parents. They will neither be encouraged nor discouraged. Fa'afafine tend to hang out together and bars popular with them tend to change over time.

Gays who are self-aware enough to realize they are gay, and not fa'afafine, may socialise in fa'afafine circles, and thus be more readily recognised as gay. There is an annual fa'afafine pageant.

The welcoming Samoan culture combined with a desire to shine favour from visitors, who are presumed to be very wealthy by comparison, can lead to confusing signals from friendly men.

Lesbianism is much less accepted. While there are lesbians, there is no lesbian scene and nowhere to easily meet Samoan lesbians.

Stay safe
Samoa is generally very safe. Locals who strike up a conversation are unlikely to have sinister motives, however you will often be asked for money.

Free roaming dogs can be a safety problem in the capital Apia. The Government of Samoa (GoS) passed the Canine Control Act in 2013 as an initial step toward addressing dog management. Most dogs ignore you and don't see you as a threat if you ignore them.

Nearly all of Samoa's nightlife is in Apia, and so, like anywhere in the world around closing time, it can get a bit rowdy. Samoans are, on the whole, extremely friendly and despite their size, remarkably relaxed and gentle people. This does not mean you should let your guard down. Alcohol related violence is a major problem in Samoa.

The concept on ownership in Polynesia is different. Locals believe in sharing everything, and this does mean that items can be swiped. Do not leave anything of value lying around.

Embassies and High Commissions
Only Australia, China, Japan and New Zealand have full diplomatic representation in Apia. The U.S. is represented by the Ambassador in New Zealand but maintains an Embassy in Apia. Britain and some other countries have Deputy High Commissions.


 * 🇦🇺 Australia
 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇯🇵 Japan
 * 🇳🇿 New Zealand
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next
Take a local bus, tour or car out and around the island of Upolu. Take the ferry to Savaii and spend a week or two staying in beach fales around the island. Pop across to American Samoa and visit Pago Pago, the inspiration for Somerset Maugham's play "Rain".