Antananarivo

Antananarivo (AN-tan-AN-ah-REEV-oo) (City of a Thousand), also known as Tana, is the capital and largest city of Madagascar. It has more universities, nightclubs, art venues, and medical services than any other city on the island. Major historic landmarks and attractions in the city include the reconstructed royal palaces and the Andafiavaratra Palace, the tomb of Rainiharo, Tsimbazaza Zoo, Mahamasina Stadium, Lake Anosy, four 19th-century martyr cathedrals, and the Museum of Art and Archaeology.

Understand


A city of some 1.6 million people at 1280 m, Antananarivo became established by Merina King Andrianjaka around 1610, when he drove out the Vazimba people to create the Kingdom of Imerina. First called Analamanga, the city was renamed Antananarivo, meaning city of the thousand, later by King Andriamasinavalona, in honor of his soldiers. After a period of French rule starting in 1897 and a failed armed rebellion in 1947–1948, the city and country emerged as independent in 1960. Merina and other Malagasy people along with Chinese, Indian, and Europeans live in the city today.

Climate
Antananarivo has a mountainous temperate climate, despite being situated in the tropics, due to its high elevation of 1,300–1,400 m (4,265 to 4,593 ft) above sea level. Antananarivo receives practically all of its average annual 1,400 mm (55.1 in) of rainfall between November and April. The dry season between May and October is pleasant and sunny, although somewhat chilly, especially during the nights, and in the mornings and evenings. Although frosts are rare in Antananarivo, they are common at higher elevations. The daily and monthly temperature variations are quite small. Means range from 22.2 °C (72.0 °F) to 15.3 °C (59.5 °F).

Get in
Antananarivo is the main entry point for Madagascar by air. International flights to the capital are covered in the main Madagascar page.

By plane
There are two ATMs: MCB (Mastercard and Visa card) and BFV_Societe Generale (Mastercard and Visa card) — in the international terminal. There are 24 hour exchange windows inside the international terminal and outside of the airport in a separate building adjacent to the parking lot. The exchange also works in case your plane arrives late in the evening.

Transport in a private vehicle to the city center will cost 60,000–80,000 Ar (June 2023) – costs will be at the high end of the cost spectrum after daylight hours. It will take a half hour in the late evening and early morning to reach the city center, and usually more than an hour during other times when the roads are congested.


 * A taxi brousse is the least expensive option, and should cost 2×600=1200 Ar from the airport to downtown. You need too take two seats: one for you and one for your bag.

By road


For travelling by road, there are three options: a private vehicle hire, a scheduled bus service or taxi brousse (bush taxi).

Vehicles can be hired through various agencies in Antananarivo. Individuals that work as freelance driver-guides will also approach you while you walk around in the streets or sit in a café. Budget €60 per day if you wish to hire a driver, and clarify how the driver's expenses (food, accommodation) is handled if you hire the car for trips that last more than one day. You may need to sign a "contract" to be shown to police officers that may stop the car at checkpoints along the road. It is allowed to check the technical state of the vehicle before you agree.

There are several companies that operate scheduled bus services between Antananarivo and larger towns of Madagascar.
 * Besady Plus buses to Nosy Be and Sainte Marie Via Ambanja and Toamasina. Tickets includes sea transfer. All Besady Plus buses have free wifi and go on time.
 * Malagasycar Transport Premiere Classe or . Antananarivo from Mahajanga Ambanja (Ankify port nosy be)
 * Casycar VIP Transport has 5 seat cars going from Antananarivo to Antsirabe. They depart 6 times a day from Hotel Chalet des roses in Antananarivo city center. The fare is 26,000 Ar. Saves you having to get a taxi out to the bus terminal.
 * Malagasycar Transport Premiere Classe or . Antananarivo from Mahajanga Ambanja (Ankify port nosy be)
 * Casycar VIP Transport has 5 seat cars going from Antananarivo to Antsirabe. They depart 6 times a day from Hotel Chalet des roses in Antananarivo city center. The fare is 26,000 Ar. Saves you having to get a taxi out to the bus terminal.

The taxis-brousses link the capital to most other towns and depart from four major bus stations, which roughly correspond to the points of the compass, i.e. the northern bus station includes destinations such as Nosy Be and Antsiranana (Diego-Suarez), while the eastern one (Gare Routiere de l'est) has destinations such as Andasibe. If you don't know which one you need ask a taxi driver to take you to the right one for your location.

On arrival to the station you will be mobbed by touts trying to sell the services of every destination and route. Don't be intimidated as they do this to all arrivals to the station, local and tourist alike; rather look for a vehicle that seems reliable to you and which is almost full. Most stations are lined with ticket kiosk with signs overhead advertising their locations. On the wall inside there should be a price list advertising locations, so make sure you don't pay more than this (and remember luggage is included). You can also ask to be dropped off on route before the final destination. After buying your ticket, the bus may not leave for a long time, as they will only leave when full. Try and avoid the back row of seating, this generally has the least leg room; you may buy an extra ticket (i.e. three tickets for two persons) if you want to have more space.



By rail
The colonial central station,, is located on Arabe Rainibertsimisaraka, at the northwestern end of Avenue de l'Independence. It has been converted into a small shopping mall as it sees no or very little passenger traffic. If the train to Toamasina runs, then it is not a mode of transport but an adventure for the lovers of rail transportation. Inquire at the decent Café de la gare.

Get around
There are three main methods of navigating the capital: taxi, bus and on foot.
 * Taxis are preferred by most tourists and can be found easily. There are no meters, agree the rate with the driver before entering the taxi. Expect to be quoted 5,000 Ar for a short ride in town and 20,000 Ar for a longer ride; a one-way trip to the airport will be 40,000–60,000 Ar. 60,000 at night. A taxi can be hired for half a day or a day, expect to be quoted 150,000 Ar for half a day. You can bargain. That traffic tends to be heavy in Analakely (Antananrivo's centre and busiest area) during typical rush hour times, allow for extra time if you need to pass that area on your way to the airport.
 * Taxi-bes typically are old and smoky Mercedes-Benz TN that go along a defined, numbered route. If you are comfortable being squeezed onto a van with other people, the buses, or Taxi-be, are the most affordable form of transportation, with prices around 600 Ar. There is no plan of the route system, nor is there a timetable, only locals use Taxi-be.
 * While the city is quite large, Analakely is fairly navigable on foot. Prepare for a slalom around market stalls, cars, holes and other obstacles, don't carry anything you need, in particular valuables.

See


There are lots to see and do in Antananarivo.


 * Palais d'Andafiavaratra 01.jpg

Buy
The city centre is focused on Avenue de L'Independence. Restaurants and shops line both sides of the road and it's the place to go if you want to visit a restaurant or decent cafe, including a good pizzeria and a take-away pizza restaurant. There are also internet cafes and photo-printing facilities. Shops for the Maki and Baobab clothing brand shops can be found a few streets away. The main attraction for this area is the large central market (Aanalakey Market), which includes a covered section selling bags, jewellery and clothing at relatively cheap prices (remember to haggle). Outside there's a plethora of fruit, vegetable and spice stalls, where large packs of vanilla pods can be bought.

Outside the centre there is a dedicated tourist market which has some thirty stalls selling souvenirs and local crafts. Definitely worth a visit.

There are many large western style supermarkets notable the chains Shoprite, 'Jumboscore', Leader price. and Supermaki. any taxi driver can take you to one. However, most stock is imported from abroad and so include a significant mark up (although most goods are still below European prices). For fresh goods like fruit and vegetables, significant savings can be made by buying them from the local markets stalls dotted throughout the city.

Buy a local SIM (Telma, Orange, Airtel) to access calls at the national rate. Both SIM cards and credit are easily obtainable throughout the country, and one of the few things you can easily get hold of (aside from Coca Cola, THB beer and coconut flavoured biscuits) in provincial towns and small rural villages. As with most countries, the cheapest way to receive calls from abroad is to use a local SIM and get someone to ring the number using Skype (or similar software), as it will be free for you (the receiver) and cheap for them.

Most banks have an ATM, although they often limit you to how much you can draw out at once. It's relatively simple to change money from euros and dollars to ariary, and you often get a better rate than at the airport. Some banks will also accept pound sterling.

Drink

 * Lots of bottled water (no tap water!), the main brand is Pura Vida, relatively expensive, with a 1.5-L bottle costing about 3000 Ar
 * THB (Three Horses Beer). Multi-awarded beer.
 * Madagascar wine – variable but so much cheaper than the alternative (imported French wine).
 * Bonbon Anglais < very sweet, bubble gum tasting soft drink, similar to South American Inka Cola. Excellent if you mix it with a little bit of THB. You may be presented with this when asking for limonade.
 * Betsa-betsa – alcohol made from coconut water. Stronger than beer but not quite as potent as hard liquor.
 * Litchel (or Vin Litchi in French) – lychee wine. Some brands are off-dry and quite nice, others are sickeningly sweet.
 * Saint Claude – a local brand of rum with a hint of vanilla.

Sleep
If you are overnighting in Tana while traveling through the airport, it is at least 30 minutes, and closer to an hour with traffic, to travel from the airport to the downtown area, and that the cost of the transfer in a private taxi is 40,000-60,000 Ar, 60,000 at night (one-way), so a hotel near the airport may be a good option.

Budget




Splurge
The two best known accommodations in the capital are the Colbert (pronounced like the Comedy Central show!) and the Carlton (formerly Hilton). However, in addition to being well known, these hotels are quite expensive, especially relative to other accommodations.



Stay safe

 * Beware of dogs! Tana is loaded with stray dogs, some of whom will occasionally harass passers-by for scraps or bark, growl and chase humans off their territory.  If accosted by a stray dog, look for a rock or bottle or something to throw at it, then let fly.  If nothing is available start screaming and clapping your hands.  If this doesn't work, run.  These animals also leave their marks behind... many locals refer to Tana as "Antaybe" (place of much poop).
 * Beggars can also be a nuisance, especially groups of children. A polite but firm "Non, merci" or "Tsy misy (tsee meesh)" (add "Tompoko (toom-pook)" when speaking to anyone older than you) should do the trick. If not, shout "Mandehana! (man-day-han)" (Go Away!).  Try to avoid handing out cash, candy or trinkets to children, it simply encourages more begging.
 * Be wary of groups of older children begging in the centre, they may try and snatch exposed jewellery or bags.
 * Don't be alarmed by taxis or vehicles with holes in the floor, springs poking out of the seats, missing mirrors or broken windows. Malagasy motor vehicles may not be much to look at and not much fun to ride in, but for the most part they run well and the engines are well-maintained.
 * In daylight hours you should be fine, as long as you don't carry too many valuables. Use common sense.

Embassies and consulates

 * 🇪🇬 Egypt
 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇯🇵 Japan
 * 🇷🇴 Romania
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next
Due to the altitude, the capital is significantly cooler. There are actually a number of things to do in Tana. the city is really attractive and a photographers dream. The architecture is a mix of French countryside and Indonesia. Rice paddies scattered all over the city add a brilliant green to the pastel terracotta of the buildings. The market is wonderful offering many unique souvenirs and if you do not want to bargain then try Lisy, a collection of shops with similar produce to the market at excellent prices. The Lemur Park, 45 minutes out of Tana, is well worth a visit and for gourmets there are some surprisingly good restaurants.

Travel out of the capital is by two modes: road or air. As of 2017 there is no passenger rail service from the capital. Road transport is by bus to limited destinations, taxi-brousse (shared taxi) to a variety of destinations or by car rental (usually with driver). Although travel by taxi-brousse is guaranteed to try one's patience and sanity, there is quite possibly no better way to meet and interact with the locals and experience Madagascar as the Malagasy do. Air travel is the recommended method, due to the poor state of many roads, and Antananarivo is the hub city for the national carrier Air Madagascar. But of course air is more expensive.

Recommended next stops are Morondava and/or Nosy Be.