Ancud

Ancud is the first town most people hit when visiting Chiloé Island from Puerto Montt. It's a relatively nice town of 41,000 people (2012) with a port and the usual small town attractions.

Understand
The city was established in 1768 to function as the capital of the archipelago and held that position until 1982. Founded as bulwark against foreign powers in colonial times, the city played an important role in the Chilean colonization of Patagonia in the 19th century.

Climate
Winters are cool and wet with a July average of 7.5 °C (45.5 °F). Precipitation during this time of the year is very high, averaging around 350 millimetres (14 in) and humidity is high, averaging around 87-88%.

Summers are mild with a January average of 15.0 °C (59.0 °F) and during this time, precipitation is lower though still significant, averaging 125 millimetres (5 in) in January. Temperatures rarely exceed 30 °C (86.0 °F). There are 200 days a year that get some rain.

Get in
Ancud has several different bus terminals and is served by several bus companies, including Tur-bus, Pullman, Cruz del Sur/Transchiloé, and Queilen. The Terminal Municipal is at the intersection of Avenida Aníbal Pinto and Marcos Vera. The Cruz del Sur bus station is at the intersection of Los Carrera and Los Cavada.

All buses to Ancud from the mainland stop in Puerto Montt. The bus from Puerto Montt crosses over to Chiloé by ferry and costs 4000-5000 pesos. The journey takes about 2 hours. Buses depart frequently from Puerto Montt until around 21:00.

Get around
The best way to get around is to rent a car for a day. You can then explore either the nice beaches to the west of ancud, or drive to Castro. Ask at the local gas station for car rentals.

Buy
Ancud has two major markets where you can find both food and handicrafts. The Mercado Municipal at the intersection of Arturo Prat and Libertad has two floors of stalls selling regional handicrafts, primarily knitwear, wool products, baskets, and carved wooden items. There is also a restaurant and seafood market here. The Fería Rural y Artesanal on Pedro Montt between Dieciocho and Arturo Prat has local foodsellers on the first floor and handicrafts on the second floor.

Eat

 * retro's pub at Maipú 615 is the best place for completos (sandwiches, try the ones with palta = guacamole), lunch, pizza, tea/coffee, dinner (tasty meat and fish, and great desserts and kuchen made by Marcela) and a drink with friends. Very frequented by the local population of all ages. Open from 11:00 until 02:00. The owners also organize curanto (native chilote meal baked under the earth) for groups on weekends at the beach.
 * Casamar is a superb restaurant and bar of modern architecture overviewing the sea, at night with a big video screen, good music and fantastic food and drinks.
 * La Candela across from the Plaza de Armas at Libertad 599 is a fantastic restaurant. Don't visit Ancud without stopping in for either lunch or dinner or dessert (or all three).
 * Pedersen Salon de Te Down the road from La Candela there is a small cafe which also serves sandwiches and desserts. The native dessert derived from European influences called "Kuchen" (also the word for cake in German) can be sampled at its best here. Inexpensive.
 * Kuranton At the port, nice and inexpensive local where you can eat the famous Curanto meal.

Sleep

 * Hostel TerraMar, downtown and up a steep hill. No breakfast.

Go next
From Ancud it's quite easy to catch a bus to Castro or Quellón.