Aleppo

Aleppo (حلب, Ḥalab) is the largest city in Syria - population 2.1 million. One of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world, it has a wealth of historical sites, and its old city is listed as a.

Understand
As it is in any Muslim country, the call to prayer is called out from mosques five times a day starting in the early morning. Aleppo's muezzins are traditionally well known for their beautiful calls to prayer.

Aleppo is a fairly conservative city. Dress appropriately to avoid any problems and to avoid standing out too much. Men should wear shirts and trousers and women should not wear anything that is too revealing. If you follow that simple dress code you should not have any problems. Head scarves are not necessary unless you want to enter a mosque but even then grey robes are available at no extra charge.

Prior to the Syrian Civil War, Aleppo was known for its large Armenian community, many of whom were descended from refugees fleeing the Armenian Genocide, but it is unknown how many remain after the war.

Aleppo was the epicenter of the fighting during much of the Syrian Civil War which erupted as a result of the Arab Spring in 2010. Syrian government forces loyal to Bashar al-Assad eventually prevailed over the rebel groups following Russian intervention in 2016, thus returning all of the city of government control, but not before it had suffered over 30,000 deaths and much of the old city had been destroyed.

There are no hostile feelings towards Americans or Westerners in general (although Americans tend to be subjected to more scrutiny by the authorities than other nationalities). You could, however, find yourself in trouble if you engage in open criticism of and against the Syrian government or the president. Your best bet is to avoid political conversations all together just to avoid any possible problems. If you do engage in political discussions with Syrians, be aware that they might face intense questioning by the secret police if you are overheard. As a general rule, always assume that you are being watched by the plain-clothes policemen (mukhabarat). You will notice that not many uniformed policemen can be seen in the streets, but this is because the police have a wide network of plain-clothes officers and informants.

Friday is a holy day and most shops and historic sites are closed so plan accordingly for this.

Stealing is looked down upon and thus is not very common. Crime is generally low and you should feel safe to walk around in any part of the city at any time day or night. But as in any city, it's a good idea to keep an eye on your belongings, particularly in the souk.

Meals are a bit later than in the U.S. but similar to the times in some European countries. Lunch is from 13:00 to 15:00 and dinner around 20:00. Syrians take a siesta in the middle of the day, from about 15:00 to 18:00, but this means that the night life is very active. You can return to the markets and public squares that you visited during the day and by 22:00 they will be bustling with people selling food and treats and drinks. It is a like a street fair every night.

Aleppo is a beautiful and historic city, but is too dangerous to recommend visiting.

Climate
Aleppo has a cool steppe climate. The mountain series that run along the Mediterranean coast, the Alawiyin Mountains and the Nur Mountains, largely block the effects of the Mediterranean on climate (rain shadow effect). More than 80% of precipitation occurs between October and March. It snows once or twice every winter. Average humidity is 55.7%.

Get in
As of 2019, travel to Aleppo is difficult as major highways are blocked by the civil war and travel on roads that are can take a long time due to frequent military checkpoints. It is however possible to travel overland from Damascus independently or by bus. Travel from Turkey is not possible.

By plane
As of 2023 there's a limited number of scheduled flight to Aleppo, including a few international flights per week, to Yerevan and Erbil. However, flights often have to be cancelled at short notice as the airport is a frequent target of Israeli missile strikes.



By train
All long distance trains, including international trains, are cancelled indefinitely. Repairs on the route from Damascus via Homs and Hama have picked up pace, and there has been rumours that a limited number of passenger trains might return, however it is very unclear if or when this will happen. National operator CFS do run a local commuter train from the suburb and major refugee camp Jibreen, of little use to visitors.



Get around
Taxis are everywhere, probably more taxis than people. They are easy to take and very affordable but just make sure it is a licensed taxi.

Minibuses: Called "serveece", these are small white vans that drive around and you can hop on and off by signalling to the driver. They get very full in rush hours.

Rental cars: Hertz and other rental car agencies are available in Aleppo but the driving can be very hectic and if you are not accustomed to driving in a place with few rules and almost no regard for street signs you should probably not attempt to drive on your own.

Do
Walk around the city at least a few times to really get a feel for what it is like. It is a vibrant and lively place that will continually surprise you. Any amount of time spent walking around the city will reveal another historical site or point of interest. Check out the Christian section of the city to see a different part of Aleppo. If you want to shop for clothes, al-Telal street is bustling nearly every night with crowds checking out the shops and street stands piled high with every type of clothing imaginable.

Buy


Gold: Although the prices are as high as they have ever been, gold is still a worthwhile purchase here. There is a special gold pattern called the Aleppo weave or chain that is made only in Aleppo. All gold is sold by weight and is 22 carat.

Boxes: Aleppo is also famous for its intricate inlay work that can be found in boxes of all shapes and sizes. These boxes are beautiful and can be found at almost all of the shops in the souq. A great, affordable gift to take home.

Wraps/tablecloths: There are many nice wraps that can be worn as shawls or used as tablecloths that are also available everywhere in the souqs. Another good gift.

Sweets: Pistachios are everywhere in Aleppo and accordingly there are many different kinds of sweets made from the pistachio. These usually come in a decorative box and are yet another good gift.

Coffee and spices: It is impossible to walk through the souq without being caught up in the scent of freshly ground coffee and spices like cumin. You can also buy very ornate pots to make your coffee in.

Soap: One of the most famous Aleppine products is its olive oil soap. Many factories produce this using traditional techniques. The price varies depending on the proportion of olive and laurel oil, prices and assortment is better in the shops just in the 2 roads south of the Clock Tower rather than in the Souq's tourist traps, even if most shop keepers speak very little English (prices per kilo are clearly shown).

Eat
The area around Aleppo is famous for pistachio farming, so be sure to try the baklava and other pistachio-based sweets while you're here.

Common Syrian street food like falafels and shwarma are excellent and available throughout the city. In the souks you will also find tiny restaurants with a few stools serving up dishes like Fuul (pronounced “fool”), a bean soup served with fresh bread, onions and mint. If you are adventurous, look for the men frying curry-flavoured pancakes near the entrance to the souk. The pancakes are wrapped in bread and topped with hot sauce. Also try and buy some of the freshly made pita bread that is sold everywhere as it is delicious.

For breakfast, a fresh glass of juice and cheese sandwich can be had from the juice stands near the clock tower. Many cafés also serve great ice cream for a treat.

If you are tired after a day of wandering around the souk, try one of the cafés near the base of the citadel. They offer light snacks and drinks, including a wide range of coffees and refreshing glasses of minted lemonade.

Travellers on a strict budget should be prepared to eat very similar meals everyday as there is not a lot of variety in the diet at the cheaper end of the range.

There are plenty of good restaurants around and meals are very affordable.



In the Christian Quarter (El Jedeide) district

 * Sheraton Hotel. It may seem wrong to come to Syria and head for the Sheraton but they do offer an excellent buffet breakfast, which, if you're willing to splurge, makes a nice change from the typical Syrian fare and will set you up well for a day of exploring. They also do a fine cup of coffee.
 * Sheraton Hotel. It may seem wrong to come to Syria and head for the Sheraton but they do offer an excellent buffet breakfast, which, if you're willing to splurge, makes a nice change from the typical Syrian fare and will set you up well for a day of exploring. They also do a fine cup of coffee.
 * Sheraton Hotel. It may seem wrong to come to Syria and head for the Sheraton but they do offer an excellent buffet breakfast, which, if you're willing to splurge, makes a nice change from the typical Syrian fare and will set you up well for a day of exploring. They also do a fine cup of coffee.
 * Sheraton Hotel. It may seem wrong to come to Syria and head for the Sheraton but they do offer an excellent buffet breakfast, which, if you're willing to splurge, makes a nice change from the typical Syrian fare and will set you up well for a day of exploring. They also do a fine cup of coffee.

In Aziziyeh

 * Al- Challal
 * WANES Restaurant

Drink
Alcohol is permitted but not widely available. You can find stores selling liquor on a few streets near the clocktower. Try Zaki al-Arsuzi (across from Al Kommeh restaurant) and Jbrail Dalal streets. There is a liquor store a few metres away from the Aleppo Hotel (on a side street from the clocktower). In the new city there is a store at Al Hateb square. Restaurants and hotels that cater to Westerners will generally serve alcoholic beverages.

There is one local beer, called Al-Sharq, while the Damascus brew Barada may also be found. Neither are exactly lethal - 3.7% and 3.4% respectively.

A wide range of other beers from the Middle East and Europe can also be found, along with wines from Syria, Lebanon and France.

Arak is a local aniseed spirit which can be found at some small shops.



Budget

 * Al-Gawaher – Bab al-Faraj Street, Behind Library. Perhaps the best backpacker spot in Aleppo. Rooms have satellite TV and both en suite and shared bathrooms are very clean. Many have balconies and others overlook a common area, where travellers often meet to chat. The rooftop gives great views over the city and is another nice spot to spend the evening. Staff are friendly and English is spoken. Tours can be arranged to the Dead Cities, Apamea and other sites. The only possible downside is that staff are late risers and so getting breakfast can be a problem. Breakfast is not included. There is, however, free coffee and tea available 24/7.
 * Hotel Alnagm Alakhdar (aka Hotel Green Star) – Around the corner from the Al-Gawaher on Sharia Hammam Al Tal (next to the Sheraton parking entrance off the Clock Tower end of Bab El Faraj - it could not be more central - 963-21-212 60 23, mob. 963 -944-25 76 45), it also has a nice roof terrace but the atmosphere is not nearly as lively. The rooms come with sinks and fans or aircom. There are no TVs in the rooms but two shared ones: one in the lounge and the second one on the top floor. Try and get one on the top floor that opens onto the roof terrace. Staff speak a little English but are very helpful. Breakfast is not included.
 * Hotel Kaser Alandaloss - Just off Bab Al-Faraj Street, in sight of the clock tower on a small block, nestled between a couple of soap merchant stores. The rooms are nice, and they have excellent showers and a comfortable central area to sit, eat, use the internet. There's no option for breakfast, but if you want some tea or some food, they are more than likely to make some for you.

Splurge


Hotels that are closed as of early 2020:



Connect
An internet access in the old town and near the main attractions (the Citadel, the Souq and the Grand Mosque) can be found at Tara Cafe. It is located in the underground lair of the caravansary of the Adlliyah Mosque and provides standard rates for internet access. It is not an internet cafe, but rather a cafe that provides internet access as a service on laptops that can be rented by the hour.

The Friends Cafe Net is also located in the area of the Citadel. From the entrance to the Citadel, walk straight (south) to a block with shawarma & chicken outlets on the ground floor. The cafe is just behind the block in a small street called "Jnenyt al-Fariq(1)". From the outlets, follow the street to your right, turn left then immediately right.

The closest internet cafe to most of the budget hotels, in the Bab al-Faraj area, is the Concord, which is in an ice cream parlor and cafe by the same name. It charges an outrageous rate for Aleppo and Syria and general.

The other internet cafe within walking distance is at Adam Cafe, across the street from the Baron Hotel. Nevertheless, the internet cafe is in the bottom story of an all-male tea house which may make female customers feel uncomfortable. If you wander around the new Christian quarter of al-Aziziyeh you can find many internet cafes such as Area 51, Montana and Kool Net which offer high speed access. All of the aforementioned cafes provide discount cards for chunks of time.

Stay safe
Many buildings in the city, particularly in the Salaheddin neighborhood and surrounding areas, have been damaged severely by the civil war. Buildings can and do collapse, often with deadly consequences. Stay away from buildings that have sustained heavy damage or look structurally unstable.

Consulates

 * 🇷🇴 Romania

Go next

 * Damascus