Aksaray

Aksaray is a city in Central Anatolia, 240 km southeast of Ankara and about 50 km west of Cappadocia. In 2021 the city had a population of 247,147, with another 68,000 living in the small towns and villages of Aksaray Province.

Aksaray is highly underrated—it is lively and authentic with barely any tourists, cheap accommodation and countless interesting sights around.

Understand
Cappadocia was a Persian kingdom from 331 BC to 17 AD and its last independent ruler Archelaus thought it would be neat if this town was named Archelaïs. He was unpopular with his subjects and ran out of money - the Romans invited him to Rome to discuss ways they could help, and when they'd done discussing, Archelaus was mysteriously dead. So the Romans took over the territory and renamed the town Colonia, just so everyone understood their status.

The town was on the Silk Road, the trading highway to Konya from the east of the country, and away over the far mountains from Persia. It came under the rule of the Seljuks from the 11th century, who adorned it with their distinctive architecture, building stout caravanserai to protect the travelling traders. The next brief dynasty was the Karamanids, then the Ottomans won it in 1470. By then the town had its present name of Aksaray meaning "white palace", of which no trace remains. Many residents relocated to Constantinople at that time, so there's a neighbourhood of Aksaray in present-day Istanbul.

Later trade was of salt (essential in the days before refrigeration) harvested from the great salt lake to the north. Aksaray today is an industrial town that you pass through on the road to Cappadocia but don't linger.

By bus


Buses from Istanbul run every hour or so via Gebze and Ankara, taking 10 hours for a single fare in 2022 of 300 TL. (From Ankara takes 3 hr 30 min.) These buses continue via Konya and Isparta to Antalya, another 9 hours.

Buses from Izmir run every hour or two via Uşak, Afyon and Konya to Aksaray; from Konya takes 2 hours. They continue across Cappadocia via Nevşehir, Göreme and Avanos to Kayseri.

From Nevşehir bus station (west of town) a local minibus is no more than about €3 (50 TL as of May 2022). Larger bus companies will also take you along the ride, just don't pay more than for the minibus. Get off near the center of Aksaray, not at the bus station.

By road
By road from Istanbul head east past Ankara onto O-21 towards Adana. Exit at Acıkuyu onto D757 / D750 into town. D300 is the east-west highway Kayseri-Cappadocia-Aksaray-Konya. D750 south eventually rejoins O-21.

By train
There is no railway service to Aksaray. YHT fast trains run from Istanbul to Ankara and Konya.

Get around
It would make sense to rent a car (check Google Maps and ratings), but as soon as you are out of the city hitchhiking is also possible. So, it can be a good idea to rely on buses and your thumb if you are not in too much of a hurry.



See

 * Governor's Office and other handsome early Republican buildings are in the square 200 m southwest of Grand Mosque. The street on the square's north flank is optimistically called Turizm Cd.Sultanhani Caravanserai, Turkey (23944555856).jpg
 * Kılıçaslan Hamams are 12th century bath houses on the riverbank opposite Red Minaret Mosque. In modern times they became garbage dumps but are under restoration.
 * Kılıçaslan Hamams are 12th century bath houses on the riverbank opposite Red Minaret Mosque. In modern times they became garbage dumps but are under restoration.
 * Kılıçaslan Hamams are 12th century bath houses on the riverbank opposite Red Minaret Mosque. In modern times they became garbage dumps but are under restoration.

Further afield
Many more places are in close reach around Güzelyurt, like Ihlara valley.



Do

 * Ihlara valley – For hiking and rock-climbing near Güzelyurt.
 * Ihlara valley – For hiking and rock-climbing near Güzelyurt.

Buy

 * Migros is the main supermarket, on Atatürk Blv opposite Eski Garaj. It's open daily 09:00-22:00.
 * Nora City is a shopping mall 200 m northeast of Migros on Atatürk Blv.
 * Lots of small neighbourhood stores, A101 is the main chain.

Eat

 * Riverside along Ebulfeyz Elçibey Cd is the main eating strip. Choices include Sofra, Etci, Künefeland, Has Döner, Şehzade, Çiğerci Bahattin, Elçibey, Domino's Pizza, Omur Baba and Kardeşler.
 * Several more in the park upriver.
 * Several more in the park upriver.

Drink

 * Mert Birahanesi is at Kalealtı Cd 58. Don't look for head-banging music in Teknobar just south, it's a construction company.
 * Many cafes and restaurants serve beer.

Sleep

 * Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa.
 * Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa.
 * Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa.
 * Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa.
 * Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa.
 * Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa.
 * Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa.

Connect
Aksaray and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of Nov 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

 * Güzelyurt and Ihlara valley – 30 km southeast are the closest parts of strange Cappadocia scenery, a fantastic landscape of volcanic tufa and ancient religious sites.
 * Nevşehir, Göreme and Avanos – Cappadocia's main tourist bases.
 * Kayseri – Further east has an ancient citadel and old town.
 * Konya – Was the home of the Mevlani, the Sufi "whirling dervishes".
 * Ankara – North, is a sprawling modern city but with many sights of interest in its historic centre.