Akhaltsikhe

Akhaltsikhe (Georgian: ახალციხე, "New Fortress") is a small city of about 18,000 people (2014) and the capital of Samtskhe-Javakheti. It's a rather sleepy town, but its Old City and Old Turkish baths are worth a visit, and it's a great base for exploring the surrounding areas, including Sapara Monastery in the immediate vicinity and Vardzia to the south with Khertvisi and Tmogvi Fortresses along the way.

Understand
The city has been around for at least 800 years, and was the seat of the House of Akhaltsikhe, dukes of Samtskhe, for several centuries. In 1576 the Ottomans took the city; they built most of the old buildings a tourist can see here. During the Russo-Turkish War of 1828–1829 Russians captured the city. Until the 20th century Akhaltsikhe was mostly Armenian, but today around 27% are Armenians and the rest are Georgians. There is some language tension between city inhabitants.

By marshrutka
All marshrutkas from major Georgian cities stop at Borjomi and at Khashuri bus station. Hence, if you missed your ride, it's not terribly difficult to catch a marshrutka going between Akhaltsikhe and Khashuri before dinner time.

(As of Mch. 2022 the prices quoted have risen 20-25%.)

From specific destinations:
 * Tbilisi (Didube bus station) – 08:00–19:00 hourly. 3 hr. 15 lari. (updated Sept 2022)
 * Kutaisi – 08:20, and 13:00. 3½ hr. 10-12 lari.
 * Gori – 08:30. 2½ hr. 10 lari. (updated Apr 2022)
 * Batumi (from old bus station near Batumi train station, via Khashuri) – 08:30, and ~10:30. 5½-6 hr. 20 lari.
 * Borjomi – Every 30-60 min. 1 hr. 3 lari.
 * Vardzia – 9:00, 13:00 and 15:00. 1½ hr. 6.50 lari. (updated Apr 2022)
 * Nakalakevi/Tmogvi (near Vardzia) – ~08:10-08:20.

To specific destinations (vice-versa, if not listed above, should be similarly frequent):
 * Ninotsminda – 08:15, and 15:00. 1½ hr. 7 lari. They obviously also go by Akhalkalaki.
 * Gori – 08:15, and 13:00. 2½ hr. 7 lari.
 * Kutaisi – 10:40, 15:00, and 18:10. 3½ hr. 17 lari. (updated Apr 2022)
 * Batumi (via Khashuri) – 08:30, and 11:30. 6 hr. 20 lari.
 * Batumi (via Khulo, Jun-Aug) – 10:00. 6 hr. 18 lari.
 * Vardzia – 12:20 and 17:30. 1½ hr. 6.50 lari. (updated Apr 2022)
 * Mirashkhani (passing through Vardzia) - 10:35 and 16:00. 1½ hr. 7 lari. (updated Apr 2022)

There are few direct marshrutkas from/to Yerevan, Armenia, or several connections from Armenia when making a stopover in Akhalkalaki. There is also a daily connection from Gyumri, which starts at 10:00 (3½ hr, 4,000 dram).

By thumb
The direct road from Batumi to Akhaltsikhe is not served by marshrutkas, probably due its bad state and the mountain pass. Nevertheless, you should be able to catch a (4WD) ride on that road. But it will be bumpy and probably still take at least 4 hr.

By car
The principal route to Akhaltsikhe runs from Georgia's main East-West highway (E60) at the spur in Khashuri leading to Borjomi.

There's also a route from Batumi via Gorzerdzi pass (4WD needed, closed in winter, scenic views).

By train
There was a train in the past, but nowadays the nearest railway station is Borjomi with connections from Tbilisi and Khashuri.

Get around
Most of the centre can be explored on foot. However, the highway between Borjomi and Vardzia is about 2 km east of the centre and 2.5-3 km east of the castle.

Sleep
The street from the underpass near the police station and the castle gate is lined with small family-run hotels, in all 15-20. Most of them close during winter. Expect to pay 30-50 Lari (2022).



If you can make yourself understood, you can overnight in the Sapara Monastery's chambers, 10-12 km outside of Akhaltsikhe.

Inside Georgia

 * Vardzia &mdash; the cliff-side cave monastery, a former city, is the biggest reason to visit Akhaltsikhe, and the region more generally. A round trip by taxi from Akhaltsikhe might cost about 50-60 lari (or marshrutka 7 lari one way, as of July 2022).
 * Abastumani &mdash; an interesting and off-the-touristic-map, former Soviet spa town with still functioning sulphur and thermal baths.
 * Akhalkalaki &mdash; the center of Armenian culture in Georgia is nearby to the southwest, easily accessible via marshrutka from Akhaltsikhe.
 * Borjomi &mdash; every Soviet traveller’s favourite Georgian retreat, for its parks, Romanov palace, and internationally renowned natural mineral water.
 * Khashuri &mdash; an interesting small town with an abundance of hammocks.

Outside Georgia

 * Armenia &mdash; There are two marshrutkas to Yerevan, Armenia, at 04:00 and 07:00 (7 hr, 20-35 lari). If you miss them, go to Akhalkalaki, from where marshrutkas leave to Yerevan almost every hour. Either the same or an additional one also goes to Gyumri at 07:00 (4 hr, 20 lari).
 * Turkey &mdash; You can buy bus tickets to Turkey from the central bus station. Ticket to Posof (city on the Turkish side) is US$10 and leaves at 14:30 (could not be confirm in May 2019). There's a bus to Kars with Kars Vipturizm 4449188. It goes Wednesday and Sunday at 13:00 and costs 70 TL (or 35 lari) (May 2019). Hitching to Kars is also a very easy option and can be done in far less than a day. From the central bus station, ask for the road to the Turkish border (Turetskoĭ granitsy) and start flagging cars about 1 km from the bus station down the road. The road will pass through the small town of Vale. You are able to walk across the border.